toyota 318 4x4....
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toyota 318 4x4....
I have a 1990 toyota sport. was 2wd. swaped in an 89 4x4 frame, now 4x4. I have a 94 dodge ram 1500 318 4x4. i want to put the motor in the yota. any helpful tips. or places to look for a trans adaptor. would be great.
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Heard of small-block Chevy and Ford swaps but, I never heard or seen a small-block Dodge swap......there may not be ANY aftermarket support for that.
Chevy swaps are by far the most popular V8 swap, with Ford being second and then Toyota V8.....may want to sell that engine and get a Chevy or Ford V8 if you are looking to make it easier.
Chevy swaps have been done for 20 years or more and something to consider is that Ford small-blocks are narrower than Chevy small-blocks.
Also, Chevy 4.3 V6 engines are basically a small-block V8 with two cylinders "cut" off so an adapter plate for the transmission would fit both.
Good Luck with your build!
Chevy swaps are by far the most popular V8 swap, with Ford being second and then Toyota V8.....may want to sell that engine and get a Chevy or Ford V8 if you are looking to make it easier.
Chevy swaps have been done for 20 years or more and something to consider is that Ford small-blocks are narrower than Chevy small-blocks.
Also, Chevy 4.3 V6 engines are basically a small-block V8 with two cylinders "cut" off so an adapter plate for the transmission would fit both.
Good Luck with your build!
#4
im looking to do the same thing so far i havent herd of any adaptars or anything...to be honest i would just run your 318 and run what ever tranny you want to and like a 205 just go full size its a little more customizing but in my opinion in the end its worth the extra work and from there you can run built yota axels or a dana 44 or what ever you would like to run but also like fastkevman is saying you can find everything for a 350 or 302 ive seen one 318 yota on you tube and it was pretty sweet but on the other hand parts arnt going to be as easy to get ahold of as they are for a chev conversion or ford
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i used a 350 cause the deck hieght is lower than other small blocks. i have a 318 in my van and it just seams too wide.
318 is a great motor but i don't think it is a good swap unless you plan on using the entire drive train!!!!! which is fine but, will take more fab.
318 is a great motor but i don't think it is a good swap unless you plan on using the entire drive train!!!!! which is fine but, will take more fab.
#6
318 engine swap
I am prepareing to do a 318 engine swap in my 1984 4runner. I have gathered large amounts of information that I will share with you.
NEW VENTURE MODEL 4500
The NV4500 has been used in GM and Dodge trucks since 1992. It is a five speed manual transmission that is fully synchronized in all forward gears, and also synchronized in reverse in the Dodge versions. First gear ratios have been available in 4.01:1, 5.61:1, and 6.34:1. Fifth gear ratio is 0.73:1 offering a 27% overdrive.
The transmission is very rugged having been offered in 3/4 ton full-size trucks. The main case of the transmission is built from cast iron, with some of the less critical parts made from aluminum.
Adapters are available to mate the NV4500 transmission to the Toyota transfer case. (Watch this carefully though as not all models of the NV4500 can be used with this swap.) While cost for this transmission is usually high, it is probably the one of the best manual transmissions ever made for use in a 4WD truck. The very low first gear and fifth gear overdrive combine to provide a transmission that does equally well whether crawling over rocks or screaming down the highway. And this transmission is one way to retain a manual transmission in your truck and still pump lots of V8 power through it.
MOTOR MOUNTS
There are two options for motor mounts when doing an engine conversion. You can buy bolt-in mounts that bolt to the stock mounts, or you can fabricate new ones from scratch. Buying bolt-in mounts is easier and quicker. Building your own is less expensive and allows you to position the engine exactly as you want it.
Homebuilt motor mounts are almost always welded to the frame. As such, you will need to remove the stock motor mounts from the truck frame. This involves cutting and grinding to get a clean rail on which to weld the new ones.
One type of custom design can be made from 2" x 3" x 3/16" steel box tubing. Mounts such as these can mate to stock GM rubber engine mounts and are welded to the truck frame. A single bolt in each mount secures the two mount halves together. Another alternative is to use aftermarket mounts that bolt to the engine block or make custom mounts, and use aftermarket urethane mating mounts. The urethane provides a firmer engine mount and remains more stable than the rubber during hard acceleration.
Once the larger engine is installed, you may find that the engine torque causes the engine to twist a bit too much on the motor mounts. There are several ways to damp or stop this unwanted action. The engine can be chained to the frame. While this method provides very sturdy support of the engine, the method is very unforgiving and will transmit driveline vibration to the frame. Another method is to adapt a small hydraulic damper between the engine and the truck frame. Such dampers can be found in late model V6 Ford Ranger trucks. This method will provide average damping of engine twist. Finally, an out-board stabilizer arm can be constructed of steel and bolted to the engine block. The other end of this arm is connected to the frame through a urethane bushing system. This method provides both tight damping control of the engine and vibration isolation from the frame.
Go with an after market race double sump oil pan, so that you may clear the axel assembly, which, keeps you lower on the lift kit. Also you can get a better radiator from http://www.northwestoffroad.com/part...eadapters.html I am not using the yoda transfer though, even with twin gear units the best I can get is like 14:1 low, I am using my dodge gear to gear from my 1973 power wagon, which is 20:1 low...
Later;
Chuck
NEW VENTURE MODEL 4500
The NV4500 has been used in GM and Dodge trucks since 1992. It is a five speed manual transmission that is fully synchronized in all forward gears, and also synchronized in reverse in the Dodge versions. First gear ratios have been available in 4.01:1, 5.61:1, and 6.34:1. Fifth gear ratio is 0.73:1 offering a 27% overdrive.
The transmission is very rugged having been offered in 3/4 ton full-size trucks. The main case of the transmission is built from cast iron, with some of the less critical parts made from aluminum.
Adapters are available to mate the NV4500 transmission to the Toyota transfer case. (Watch this carefully though as not all models of the NV4500 can be used with this swap.) While cost for this transmission is usually high, it is probably the one of the best manual transmissions ever made for use in a 4WD truck. The very low first gear and fifth gear overdrive combine to provide a transmission that does equally well whether crawling over rocks or screaming down the highway. And this transmission is one way to retain a manual transmission in your truck and still pump lots of V8 power through it.
MOTOR MOUNTS
There are two options for motor mounts when doing an engine conversion. You can buy bolt-in mounts that bolt to the stock mounts, or you can fabricate new ones from scratch. Buying bolt-in mounts is easier and quicker. Building your own is less expensive and allows you to position the engine exactly as you want it.
Homebuilt motor mounts are almost always welded to the frame. As such, you will need to remove the stock motor mounts from the truck frame. This involves cutting and grinding to get a clean rail on which to weld the new ones.
One type of custom design can be made from 2" x 3" x 3/16" steel box tubing. Mounts such as these can mate to stock GM rubber engine mounts and are welded to the truck frame. A single bolt in each mount secures the two mount halves together. Another alternative is to use aftermarket mounts that bolt to the engine block or make custom mounts, and use aftermarket urethane mating mounts. The urethane provides a firmer engine mount and remains more stable than the rubber during hard acceleration.
Once the larger engine is installed, you may find that the engine torque causes the engine to twist a bit too much on the motor mounts. There are several ways to damp or stop this unwanted action. The engine can be chained to the frame. While this method provides very sturdy support of the engine, the method is very unforgiving and will transmit driveline vibration to the frame. Another method is to adapt a small hydraulic damper between the engine and the truck frame. Such dampers can be found in late model V6 Ford Ranger trucks. This method will provide average damping of engine twist. Finally, an out-board stabilizer arm can be constructed of steel and bolted to the engine block. The other end of this arm is connected to the frame through a urethane bushing system. This method provides both tight damping control of the engine and vibration isolation from the frame.
Go with an after market race double sump oil pan, so that you may clear the axel assembly, which, keeps you lower on the lift kit. Also you can get a better radiator from http://www.northwestoffroad.com/part...eadapters.html I am not using the yoda transfer though, even with twin gear units the best I can get is like 14:1 low, I am using my dodge gear to gear from my 1973 power wagon, which is 20:1 low...
Later;
Chuck
Last edited by 84 super Yoda; 06-06-2010 at 10:36 AM.
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You should be able to use a bellhousing from a later 318 or 3.9 powered 5 speed dakota (The Dak MUST have an AX15 instead of the new process trans. This will allow you to use a stock toyota r150 with an input shaft and front bearing retainer from the dodge trans.) If you go this route make sure to get the clutch slave and fork as well.
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#9
Dude awesome
I was curious about something .... I'm not a big 4x4 guy I mean I love mudding dont get me erowr but I'm more or a power and racing kind of guy and was wondering what would I have to do to make it easier to complete just a 318 with a 5 speed from a dodge huh and pull it straight over? But I would have to get the drive shaft and rear diff right? I'm starting my own build also but more for digs and pulls than mudding also I want it as a daily these truck are beautiful and I love them but I honestly rather have it with a V8 and Ford and Chevy blocks I'm not to find of I like the torque from the 318 better. So what do you guys think?
#10
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I was curious about something .... I'm not a big 4x4 guy I mean I love mudding dont get me erowr but I'm more or a power and racing kind of guy and was wondering what would I have to do to make it easier to complete just a 318 with a 5 speed from a dodge huh and pull it straight over? But I would have to get the drive shaft and rear diff right? I'm starting my own build also but more for digs and pulls than mudding also I want it as a daily these truck are beautiful and I love them but I honestly rather have it with a V8 and Ford and Chevy blocks I'm not to find of I like the torque from the 318 better. So what do you guys think?
Why try to turn a Toyota into a Dodge when you could just buy a Dodge??????
It just never made sense to me.
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