Rear mount Radiator ??s

mrdoug · 07-10-2008, 02:06 PM

Hey all, I have a SBC in my 85 ext cab. The engine placement is far enough forward that it got into the radiator on it's first trail run. I've picked up a new rad (22" tru cool from speedway) and I'm planning on putting it in the back with a turaus fan. I'm trying to figure out the plumbing now. I figure I'll need an electric aux pump to help things along.

I've read around and have decided to price out both copper and hrew, but I'm wondering what size. I've seen suggestions going from 1" to 2". I'll be running rubber hoses up from the pipes to/from the block and the rad in the back, So I assume I'll be able to compensate for the different hose sizes there.

What diameter should I run the tubes down the frame?

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fillsrunner4 · 07-10-2008, 02:30 PM

go with similar size tubing that the raditor uses in the first place about 1". I think 2" would be overkill. As for tubing I would say copper as it can dissapate heat faster than steel.

mrdoug · 07-10-2008, 03:05 PM

Thanks fillsrunner4. I would like to go copper, but unless I get a solid pro/con one way or another, the $$ will probably be the deciding factor (1.5" x 10' copper was $72 at home depot). I'm thinking that copper will dissipate heat better like you said, but hrew would be stronger (and cheaper) if I came down on any rocks or such.

I was hoping that I could get away with smaller diameter tubing since the water pump and rad all have 1 5/8" ID hookups and trying to run/secure 3"+ of tubing down the already tight frame rail was going to be challenging to say the least.

fillsrunner4 · 07-10-2008, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrdoug

Thanks fillsrunner4. I would like to go copper, but unless I get a solid pro/con one way or another, the $$ will probably be the deciding factor (1.5" x 10' copper was $72 at home depot). I'm thinking that copper will dissipate heat better like you said, but hrew would be stronger (and cheaper) if I came down on any rocks or such.

I was hoping that I could get away with smaller diameter tubing since the water pump and rad all have 1 5/8" ID hookups and trying to run/secure 3"+ of tubing down the already tight frame rail was going to be challenging to say the least.

the hrew would be stonger but your gonna want to tuck them away anyway. Could run it through the frame although that can be alot of work to do. Also if you add a small body lift you can put it right ontop the frame. Ive seen that and liked it aside from the body lift.

Just be sure not to take away sizing so dont go smaller than any of the inlets and outlet sizing and youll be good.

What also would be sick but probably out of your price range would be stainless line like brakelines. your not gonna hurt those things thats for sure. I would love to do that to mine although its a bit too much for me. Will see!

One more thing! A real nice fan im using and is similar but bigger than the taurus fan is a lincoln 4.6 V8 fan. 18" blade, fits perfect around my stock Rad, sounds like you changed that though. Ide look into it though its a real nice fan and will cool the piss out of your 350 and its two speed

mrdoug · 07-11-2008, 09:51 AM

Heh, it already has a 3" BL on it that I'm trying to eliminate. With a 4" suspension on top of (or below) that 7" lift is just to much for the rocks I want to play on.

Running the coolant lines thru the frame would be great, but cutting open the frame, bending the pipes and re-welding the frame would be just too much at this point.

I did price out some braided/teflon/bling hoses (found them on earls plumbing) instead of the metal ones, only about 500 bones too much for my taste.

And your right, the stock radiator is long gone. I got this thing after somebody did the conversion (poorly I might add) and let the truck sit for 3 or so years. I bought it knowing that just about everything from the electrical to the suspension had to be redone. I was really hoping that the cooling was going to be easier than it has been but alas, Murphy setup shop in my garage.

fillsrunner4 · 07-11-2008, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrdoug

Heh, it already has a 3" BL on it that I'm trying to eliminate. With a 4" suspension on top of (or below) that 7" lift is just to much for the rocks I want to play on.

Running the coolant lines thru the frame would be great, but cutting open the frame, bending the pipes and re-welding the frame would be just too much at this point.

I did price out some braided/teflon/bling hoses (found them on earls plumbing) instead of the metal ones, only about 500 bones too much for my taste.

And your right, the stock radiator is long gone. I got this thing after somebody did the conversion (poorly I might add) and let the truck sit for 3 or so years. I bought it knowing that just about everything from the electrical to the suspension had to be redone. I was really hoping that the cooling was going to be easier than it has been but alas, Murphy setup shop in my garage.

If anything take the body lift down to an inch and use that area to run those lines. should be real easy with a body lift and a perfect area to tuck those lines running toand from the back. Pluis then they are away from the elements

Adam F · 07-19-2008, 11:46 AM

Why Hrew? Why not just plain old pipe or tube? Just use a small section of rubber hose in between the motor and the tube and tube and the radiator so it can flex. Just make sure your radiator is mounted higher than the tube.

fillsrunner4 · 10-07-2008, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adam F

Why Hrew? Why not just plain old pipe or tube? Just use a small section of rubber hose in between the motor and the tube and tube and the radiator so it can flex. Just make sure your radiator is mounted higher than the tube.

Problem with pipe is that it rusts easy same with hrew thats why I reccomend either copper or rubber hose most likely both! Im thinking about going all rubber tube now cause its cheaper but may still use copper bends and a few feet maybe along the frame

toyscraps · 10-16-2008, 07:48 PM

There are some pretty cool food-grade clear flexible tubings sold at various supply stores, variety of sizes, and it seems like pretty tough stuff too, might be worth looking into.

fillsrunner4 · 10-16-2008, 10:51 PM

problem with alot of materials is temp! How hot can it get?

toyscraps · 10-21-2008, 04:51 PM

Not sure, and can't remember a manufacturer or product name. I do know there was a pretty good variety of sizes and other specs, some very flexible, some more like just a softer pipe, Most are "ribbed" to be more or less crush proof. Here's a link to one example. Good to 120 C, or about 250 F. May not be the cheapest or most flexible stuff tho.

http://www.greggdistributors.ca/catpdfs/CatX017.pdf

toyscraps · 10-21-2008, 08:57 PM

Check out the stuff on the top of the page in the link.

http://www.greggdistributors.ca/catpdfs/CatX017.pdf

Just one example, no idea on cost, etc, but could be pretty workable I think.

Adam F · 10-22-2008, 09:30 PM

250F is not enough. Your rig might see temps that high occasionaly, or close to it. You want something that is rated much higher than what you expect to see.

I dont think clear plastic tubing is the way to go.

toyscraps · 10-22-2008, 10:18 PM

http://www.novaflex.com/productcart/...eam%20Hose.pdf

Some other stuff that could work too.

chevota4.3 · 12-13-2008, 07:48 PM

I have a 79 toy with a heavily built 4.3 in it and we run in the mud all day long and the way i was told to go is to put a small radiator up front and then put your big radiator in the bed, using your heater core hose's to supply your big radiator in the bed. and what water pump is on your engine? if it has a stubby pump on it you should be able to fit a rad up front with a fan. no clutch fan. this is the way they run in florida and they have no problems.. just my $.02

mouse4x4 · 01-22-2009, 06:42 PM

i have tore up a few radiators now with those junk flex fans everytime i go in a water hole or deep mud that is why i am putting mine in the back no room up front for a clutch fan

mrdoug · 02-03-2009, 09:12 AM

I had the stubby water pump, but still no room for the fan/rad up front. After several other issues regarding the 'build' I've decided to tear it all out and rebuild the truck. Aside from the burnt wiring and poor engine placement, the motor mounts were downright scary (and got even more scary when I went to cut them out and found out had bad the welds really were).

Thanks all for the replies and help. for now, it's gutted and I'm in progress with switching over to the 5vz with solid toyota drive train.

0utlaw · 08-01-2009, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrdoug

Hey all, I have a SBC in my 85 ext cab. The engine placement is far enough forward that it got into the radiator on it's first trail run. I've picked up a new rad (22" tru cool from speedway) and I'm planning on putting it in the back with a turaus fan. I'm trying to figure out the plumbing now. I figure I'll need an electric aux pump to help things along.

I've read around and have decided to price out both copper and hrew, but I'm wondering what size. I've seen suggestions going from 1" to 2". I'll be running rubber hoses up from the pipes to/from the block and the rad in the back, So I assume I'll be able to compensate for the different hose sizes there.

What diameter should I run the tubes down the frame?

--------------------------------------------------------------
Use pipe about same size as radiator outlets. I have a rear radiator in a 40 Ford pickup, blown 400 Chevy. I used the biggest griffin Nascar radiator $185) that would fit between the rails. Floor-
less bed) I built a stone shield out of wire shelving. I connected it with electrical conduit just to see if it would work. I use the STOCK Chevy pump and two huge fans in a homemade shroud on sensors. I used a scoop to direct air to it ( you will need plenty) Do not forget to flare the ends of your connecting tubes slightly and use gasket shellac.
Just experimental, but it has lasted 8 years and runs cool. 210-220 degrees (400's run hot and blown 400's hotter) Good luck...don't over build it....it works. (Do not ever run those goofy wire ties through the radiator core for your fans).
Outlaw

07-10-2008, 02:30 PM	#2 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,724	go with similar size tubing that the raditor uses in the first place about 1". I think 2" would be overkill. As for tubing I would say copper as it can dissapate heat faster than steel. __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

07-10-2008, 03:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
mrdoug Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Loveland, CO Posts: 88	Thanks fillsrunner4. I would like to go copper, but unless I get a solid pro/con one way or another, the $$ will probably be the deciding factor (1.5" x 10' copper was $72 at home depot). I'm thinking that copper will dissipate heat better like you said, but hrew would be stronger (and cheaper) if I came down on any rocks or such. I was hoping that I could get away with smaller diameter tubing since the water pump and rad all have 1 5/8" ID hookups and trying to run/secure 3"+ of tubing down the already tight frame rail was going to be challenging to say the least. __________________ DD - 02 ext-cab Taco, SAW/AAL lift, Armor a la budbuilt, bentup and badlands, manual hub conversion, 265/75-16 TKO's Project - 85 ext-cab lawn ornament

07-11-2008, 09:51 AM	#5 (permalink)
mrdoug Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Loveland, CO Posts: 88	Heh, it already has a 3" BL on it that I'm trying to eliminate. With a 4" suspension on top of (or below) that 7" lift is just to much for the rocks I want to play on. Running the coolant lines thru the frame would be great, but cutting open the frame, bending the pipes and re-welding the frame would be just too much at this point. I did price out some braided/teflon/bling hoses (found them on earls plumbing) instead of the metal ones, only about 500 bones too much for my taste. And your right, the stock radiator is long gone. I got this thing after somebody did the conversion (poorly I might add) and let the truck sit for 3 or so years. I bought it knowing that just about everything from the electrical to the suspension had to be redone. I was really hoping that the cooling was going to be easier than it has been but alas, Murphy setup shop in my garage. __________________ DD - 02 ext-cab Taco, SAW/AAL lift, Armor a la budbuilt, bentup and badlands, manual hub conversion, 265/75-16 TKO's Project - 85 ext-cab lawn ornament

07-19-2008, 11:46 AM	#7 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 2,398	Why Hrew? Why not just plain old pipe or tube? Just use a small section of rubber hose in between the motor and the tube and tube and the radiator so it can flex. Just make sure your radiator is mounted higher than the tube. __________________ 88 4Runner. 350 V8, R150 5-speed. SAS, 36" TSL's, elocker rear

10-16-2008, 10:51 PM	#10 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,724	problem with alot of materials is temp! How hot can it get? __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 39" Iroks, Rear Leafswap, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, Chevy 4.3L V6, 5spd swap, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, Chopped, Bobbed and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

10-16-2008, 07:48 PM	#9 (permalink)
toyscraps Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sexsmith, AB, Canada Posts: 23	There are some pretty cool food-grade clear flexible tubings sold at various supply stores, variety of sizes, and it seems like pretty tough stuff too, might be worth looking into.

10-21-2008, 04:51 PM	#11 (permalink)
toyscraps Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sexsmith, AB, Canada Posts: 23	Not sure, and can't remember a manufacturer or product name. I do know there was a pretty good variety of sizes and other specs, some very flexible, some more like just a softer pipe, Most are "ribbed" to be more or less crush proof. Here's a link to one example. Good to 120 C, or about 250 F. May not be the cheapest or most flexible stuff tho. http://www.greggdistributors.ca/catpdfs/CatX017.pdf

10-21-2008, 08:57 PM	#12 (permalink)
toyscraps Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sexsmith, AB, Canada Posts: 23	Check out the stuff on the top of the page in the link. http://www.greggdistributors.ca/catpdfs/CatX017.pdf Just one example, no idea on cost, etc, but could be pretty workable I think.

10-22-2008, 09:30 PM	#13 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 2,398	250F is not enough. Your rig might see temps that high occasionaly, or close to it. You want something that is rated much higher than what you expect to see. I dont think clear plastic tubing is the way to go. __________________ 88 4Runner. 350 V8, R150 5-speed. SAS, 36" TSL's, elocker rear

10-22-2008, 10:18 PM	#14 (permalink)
toyscraps Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Sexsmith, AB, Canada Posts: 23	http://www.novaflex.com/productcart/...eam%20Hose.pdf Some other stuff that could work too.

12-13-2008, 07:48 PM	#15 (permalink)
chevota4.3 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 43	I have a 79 toy with a heavily built 4.3 in it and we run in the mud all day long and the way i was told to go is to put a small radiator up front and then put your big radiator in the bed, using your heater core hose's to supply your big radiator in the bed. and what water pump is on your engine? if it has a stubby pump on it you should be able to fit a rad up front with a fan. no clutch fan. this is the way they run in florida and they have no problems.. just my $.02

01-22-2009, 06:42 PM	#16 (permalink)
mouse4x4 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 41	i have tore up a few radiators now with those junk flex fans everytime i go in a water hole or deep mud that is why i am putting mine in the back no room up front for a clutch fan __________________ 1987 Toyota 4-Runner Custom SAS All built not bought, dual cases, 4.3 chevy, turbo 350 trans, chevy 64 in the rear , chevy 46 inch springs up front, batterys relocated to rear, interior cage, *(long fields 30 spline, chromo hud cogs, detroit up front, spool rear, 5.29 yukon) All gone now front 60 rear 14 bolt install goint on right now no more lifting off the skinny pedal for me!!!!*, front and rear custom hitch mounts, front stinger, super heavy right foot!!!!!

02-03-2009, 09:12 AM	#17 (permalink)
mrdoug Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Loveland, CO Posts: 88	I had the stubby water pump, but still no room for the fan/rad up front. After several other issues regarding the 'build' I've decided to tear it all out and rebuild the truck. Aside from the burnt wiring and poor engine placement, the motor mounts were downright scary (and got even more scary when I went to cut them out and found out had bad the welds really were). Thanks all for the replies and help. for now, it's gutted and I'm in progress with switching over to the 5vz with solid toyota drive train. __________________ DD - 02 ext-cab Taco, SAW/AAL lift, Armor a la budbuilt, bentup and badlands, manual hub conversion, 265/75-16 TKO's Project - 85 ext-cab lawn ornament

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