RMA

Mr Rabbit forget about the LS1, stick with the 1UZ.

mastacox

Why?

The LS1 swap is more common, parts for the conversion are more readily available, and you'd get more power. I would also argue that an LS1 swap has as good a coolness factor as a 1UZ swap.

RMA

only because there is less 1UZFE in the 4runners here in the states, and just to keep it all toyota .
I am sure there is a coolness factor to the LS1 to some people.
I am not trying to say one is better than the other just I prefer the 1UZFE even though I have not seen either motor in a 4runner in person.

VEGASROBBI

I've had and LS series engine for about a year now in my 1982 LWD 4x4 PU. It's an LH-6 (all aluminum HO 5.3 with AFM)
Has about 350hp, and gets over 25mpg in 4cyl mode.
I bought this truck new in 1981, converted it to a 3.8 Buick V-6 then a 283 small block Chevy. I put about 300,000 miles on the small block, good motor; however,
The LS engine is awsome, great power, great mileage, and drivability is far superior to all the others. With ETC peddle bobble off road is eliminated, steep angles and flooding out are a thing of the past. Overall weight is about the same as stock I would say. IM running Downey springs and the ride height is the same as with the 22R.
The biggest issue is cooling. I removed the core suppourt and added a large aluminum racing radiator. My truck has A/C, P/S, /P/B....etc, no overheating.
If you want more info or pics please ask, Robbie.

mastacox

I'm not a GM guy, but I do know that is not an LS-series V-8; it's an L-series all-aluminum Vortec engine with active fuel management. Just because it's all-aluminum doesn't mean it's an LS V-8.

As a general rule, unless the engine is a 5.7-7.0 liter engine that came available in a Corvette between 1997 and now it isn't an LS V-8. One of the rare exceptions to this rule is the LS-4, which is a transverse mounted 5.3l all-alloy V-8 with LS-6 heads used in some FWD applications like the Grand Prix GXP.

olharleyman

Hey Rabbit I have a full set up to toy v6 5 speed for a 153 tooth flywheel but you can get a starter front gear piece to go to the 160 flywheel if interested.

Savage1016

I dont know how many of you guys out there are interested in doing a 1uzfe swap, but if you are i PM me i have the ECU, harness, fuse blocks, brake master cylinder, gauge cluster, gas pedal, and a few other bits and pieces out of a 2005 4 Runner limited i snagged before it was shipped off to a crusher its from the dash forward and i got the VIN to go with the components if you want to look the options it had. I dont want to do a 1uz swap i just hated to see good undamaged components go to scrap when i know toyota charges like they are all platinum wires or something.

Bumpin' Yota

You forgot about the GTO, the camaro, the transam, g8 GXP, trailblazer ss, the ssr, the ctsv....

L series vortec engines are the same thing as your typical ls 1/2/3/4/6/7 sans a different cam, intake, block material, and occasionally different heads. Functionally they are the same. They all even have the same physical external dimensions. Heads and intakes are all interchangable with notable exceptions. (you can't throw LS2/L92 heads on a LS1/6 bc those heads need a 4" bore - however they will ALL bolt up, just some combos won't work.). The LS3/LS7/LS9/LSA all have rectangular intake ports on their heads while the rest have cathedral intake ports, etc etc.

Being a GM guy, I can tell you we all refer to gen III/IV small blocks found in both trucks and sports cars as LSx type engine. (especially since the real LSx costs a small fortune and a kidney)

A great example would be to grab a typical iron block 5.3 with 243/799 heads. Bore her out to 3.898" with some LS1 pistons, toss in the LS1 cam and LS6 intake that came on all post 99 LS1s and wham you have an iron block ls1 that will likely outperform its aluminum counterpart courtesy of the slightly better heads. (Late model LS1s had the slighly inferior 241's, and swapping to 243's typically nets 20 rwhp. Get a set of 243s pNp'ed and wham 30-45 more rwhp over stock 241's.

Bumpin' Yota

Oh and to the original poster, don't believe the bull˟˟˟˟ 305 hp rating on some LS1s. That was gm trying to claim the corvette had 350 but the exact same engine in the camaro/transam had less....lol. they pretty much all make 350hp/365tq and have torque plateaus! 300ftlbs at 2000rpm all day.

88ECToy

iTrader: (1)

what he said^^^^

plus
Not exactly the same but generally interchangeable.

Siena

Interesting reading both here, and Lextreme.

I'm going for the 3UZ-FE swap into my 2003 Toyota single cab truck. It's a 4x4, and one of the issues with these swaps into an AWD truck is oil pan-to-differential clearance.

Everything is workable though.

I've purchased a complete donor car, a 2002 Lexus LS430, I was looking to use the entire Lexus harness, dash and cluster. But...

...The integrated engine and automatic tranny ECU may prove to be a bug. Unless there's a way to deceive the ECU, and rig up a speed signal to replicate the signal in the absent output sender in the original auto tranny.

Or I may just go with a stand alone programmable ECU.

I also toyed with the idea of using the 4.2 V8 (AVP) from a 2001 Audi S8. I have a complete car with a bad trans. The good thing is the S8 was available in Europe with a 6-speed manual, so the ECU coding is simple, a 5-minute job.

With either engine, custom mounts and harness are easy, oil pan-to-differential clearance is the tough one. Bellhousings to fit a UZ engine to the stock truck 5-speed manual are easy to find, with Oz being my choice of country to source from.

My truck has the asthmatic, wheezy 2.5 D-4D that makes a measly 102hp.

Vudujoose

LM7/L33, I went the 1UZ way, bought a donor SC400, ended up fixing the SC400 and I'm currently working on an LM7 (5.3 LSx as referred to above), I like the 1uz dont get me wrong but it only cost me 300 bux to adapt a Z33 trans to the 1uz and another 150 for the clutch. The engine is a decent engine, but the LM7 is just better all around, responds to EVERYTHING better, NA 400Hp doesnt cost much and is a joke to attain, boosted (except for S/C doesnt seem to like hot air) the LM7 is quite possibly one of the most capable V8's I have ever seen in stock form. I'd also like to add that the sleeves in the Aluminum block 5.3 (L33) are very thick and I have seen really good success out of these blocks in either form (NA or boosted).

The 1uz costs an arm and a leg to build, it's readily available in most pick n pulls for parts but beyond that it's just super expensive. The starter alone @ Autozone is over 200$.

Just my $.02