01mudslinger

My buddy has a 79 yota with 38's and has swapped a 350 in it. he cannot keep it from overheating, currently it has a high flow waterpump and thermostat, a 19x22 aluminum radiator, and 2 10" electric puller fans. It also has a 4 inch cowl hood on it to let the heat out. Does anybody have any ideas that have a V8 swap that could help him out on this one. Thanks.

rockymountian yota

Is that a 4 core radiator or a 2?

ozziesironmanoffroad

tell him to make sure the thermostat is good, and to make sure its a 4 core radiator and a badass water pump

rockymountian yota

everything sounds good but the radiator, if its not a 4 core it not going to move enough fluid through it to cool off a 350

rockymountian yota

everything sounds good but the radiator, with a 350 it needs to be a 4 core, or you want be coolin enough fluids to keep that engine happy.

01mudslinger

Ill find out about the Radiator, I was looking at the Taurus fan upgrade last nite, reading up on that, what is the CFM on that. would that be a better fan that the 2 10's.

01mudslinger

Radiator is 4 core, anybody got any info on the taurus fan, CFM Rating and is it better?

Adam F

i have a SINGLE core aluminum radiator from a camero and a taurus fan running in reverse in front of the radiator and have no cooling issues.

01mudslinger

thanks man, this may sound stupid, but what do you mean by reversed, fan in the front of the radiator?

Adam F

Yep

86Toyrunna

just for giggles.. have you pressure checked the cooling system?? could be something stupid like a bad radiator cap.. (had that happen in my cuzins old blazer) maybe its got air pocket some where in the system to. also could it be running really lean? creating more heat then in a rich condition? my dads yamaha raptor use to over heat like crazy till jetted the carbs right. these are just some things i might look at.

01mudslinger

thanks man, to put it on the front did you have to re wire it for the blades to turn the other way or something to make it push the air through? does any taurus from 90 to 95 work, i looked it up on car part and they got 3.0's and 3.8 motors, regular taurus and SHO's. wanna make sure he gets the right one. cool thing was they are only 35 bucks. What else will he need to get it hooked up right?

01mudslinger

Also does the taurus fan fit between the motor and radiator also or does it have to be put in the front? Thanks for your help guys.

RevNL

What about the hood latch? Does the grill and bumper fit over all that? Are there any problems caused by completely removing the lower core support?

I'm currently working on the cooling for my swap. It is a tight fit, no matter what. Especially without a body lift.

Adam F

You want a 3.8L V6 taurus, 90-95. Should have 3 wires, for the two speeds.

That fan is designed to fit BEHIND the radiator like any other fan. I diddnt have room that way.

I just reversed the positive and negative wires so that the fan spun in reverse. It was never designed to work this way, but it does.

Bumper and grill DID NOT fit. I had to notch the bumper (TJM) and completely cut up the grille to "fit".

No hood latch. I use hood pins.

Not sure if all this will cause any problems. Ill find out here shortly when I take it wheeling.




Read up on my swap page

http://staff.4x4wire.com/adamf/88/v8swap.htm

stovtop

im runnig a 350 in mine too with the same size rad and 2 10 inch flex-o-lite fans in front of the rad i works ok till you get into heavy wheeling i have also filled the gaps on the side of the fan to make a semi decent cowling a little cutting on he rad cradle and i was able to fit it in without modifying the grill but im going to put a 9x25 inch rad in there in the spring by moving the windshield washer bottle over a bit to make the clearance for the rad but shes never gone over 200degrees

stovtop

sorry meant 19x25 inch rad

RevNL

Thought I'd show off my work.

Ignore the cardboard covering the core. That stays until final assembly. Try not to laugh at my welds. Welding sheet metal was touchier than I expected.

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I used a Summit Racing Hod Rod series aluminum radiator in 22"x19" size with 2 one inch cores and a 7 plate internal transmission cooler. The fan is the biggest baddest Flex-a-lite pusher that would fit between the side tanks. It blew my hat off when I test fired it.

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I sawzalled out the stock mounts and welded in two strips of 1.5" x 3/16 plate steel instead. They give a flat surface on the inside to bolt up the radiator and something beefy on the outside to weld on a new fan support and core support. A 1/2" x 3/16" angle braces the two sides of the lower core support. Another 1/2 angle on top supports the hood latch and is gusseted at both ends. Both pieces are positioned so that the fan will bolt in, rather than use those through-the-core nylon ties that tend to destroy radiators.

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The hood latch is solid. I can stand on it and it won't budge.

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Everything fits under the hood. There's plenty of room for the radiator cap. The inlet fitting was pointing into the alternator so I had a welding shop move it to the side, like the Advance Adapters radiator. Yes, I probably should have just ordered the Advance Adapters radiator.

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With the cardboard removed, there'll be about 2" between the waterpump pulley (a long pump!) and the radiator. I wanted a belt fan, but without a body lift, there' s just no way to sink the radiator into the grill without cutting out the lower frame rail. This is just the best I could get.


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So there it is. Hope it will keep cool.

ChevyTacoma

Im running the Vortec 350 in my 87 yota and running the stock radiator with 1 tauras fan pushing and my truck never over heats. Runs about 180 all day long in the trails... I think its the Factory radiator. i got the truck with no motor and that radiator was in there.

jpmountainboy

hey man, i couldnt stop my new 3.0 engine from overheating after the install, and had air trapped in the lines after thinking it was a bunch of other crap. I tried all tricks, but in the end i just ripped the middle of my thermo out as to let the water pass freely for a while and that worked like a champ. sometimes there can be air way up there that you cant get out, but with the thermo out you can really flush the system through while filling it little at a time with the cap off.

its an easy thing to at least try if you have an old thermo around to gut. I ripped out the middle to leave the rest to make a good seal.

im not saying that this is your problem but thought it might be worth a shot before spending a bunch of time and cash.

good luck.