302 SBF swap checklist

Dusten · 11-26-2008, 09:21 AM

Alright, the 3.0 is killing me, i want to drive my 4runner off a cliff.

I already have the motor, and c4 trans. I plan to buy an adapter to mate it to my dual case setup.

I plan to sell the motor, 5 speed and the adapter from the 5speed to run dual 4cyl cases.

I plan to fab my own mounts.

Running down a list of needed items.

e-fan: plan to run a ford taurus 3.8L fan. I have access to a few.

Radiator: i have heard rumors the stock v6 rad will work, yes or no?

Trans cooler: I will just run an aftermarket cooler, such as a B&M

I believe the C4 is close enough in length i wont need to do anything with d-lines, can anyone confirm this?

Fuel system: i will be going carb'd, and if i am correct the fuel pump is in tank, how have you guys over came this?

Gauges: I plan to run aftermarket guages(oil/water/trans) so i am not worried about the stock ones working anymore. just the speedo and fuel.

Steering: i plan to run the stock for pump, and just have custom lines made to my yota box. Better ideas?

Alternator: is there a harness, or adapter to run a ford alt on these things?

Exhaust: I have shorty headers i will try and make work, if not, stock manifolds.

I think that is most of it, what am i missing?

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RevNL · 11-26-2008, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dusten

Fuel system: i will be going carb'd, and if i am correct the fuel pump is in tank, how have you guys over came this?

Leave the pump in the tank. Install a bypass style pressure regulator under the hood and hook the low pressure output to the carb.

Or go with fuel injection. Better option, IMHO. And Ford EFI wiring is easy.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dusten

Gauges: I plan to run aftermarket guages(oil/water/trans) so i am not worried about the stock ones working anymore. just the speedo and fuel.

With a stock transfer case, speedometer will still work, right? Same with fuel level.

Oil pressure and coolant temp gauges are easy enough to reuse if you don't want to clutter up the dash.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dusten

Trans cooler: I will just run an aftermarket cooler, such as a B&M

Should probably run through a radiator plate cooler anyways. As I understood it, that also acts as a "trans warmer" to get the transmission fluid up to operating temperature quicker.

Adam F · 11-27-2008, 01:56 AM

Remove the pump from the tank. Run the pickup line from the mech fuel pump to one of the steel tubes in the stock pickup.

Get a 1 or 2 wire alternator

Get a custom PS line made, or even use an adapter (see pirate4x4 for part numbers)

Reuse your stock gauges and senders. Oil pressure sender should thread right into the block, water temp you will just need an adapter.

Dusten · 12-02-2008, 07:38 PM

thanks guys

Dusten · 12-02-2008, 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RevNL

Or go with fuel injection. Better option, IMHO. And Ford EFI wiring is easy.

that would require me to find all the efi pieces and spend more money

Adam F · 12-04-2008, 02:00 AM

Do like I did....go carb'ed and plan on EFI later on down the road. Look for deals and collect parts as you go.

Dusten · 12-04-2008, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adam F

Do like I did....go carb'ed and plan on EFI later on down the road. Look for deals and collect parts as you go.

not really an interest of mine. I just dont like dealing with it. Carbs are simple. Easy.

RevNL · 12-05-2008, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dusten

Carbs are simple. Easy.

Metering rods, pins, idle bleeds, pilot jets, main jets, pickup tubes, floats, needles, seats, seals, plungers, pumps, check valves, diaphragms, shafts, hooks, clips, pivots... yuck!!

Fuel injection is simple! Give it fuel, hook up the wires.. done!! Let the computer do the hard part!

Dusten · 12-08-2008, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RevNL

Metering rods, pins, idle bleeds, pilot jets, main jets, pickup tubes, floats, needles, seats, seals, plungers, pumps, check valves, diaphragms, shafts, hooks, clips, pivots... yuck!!

Fuel injection is simple! Give it fuel, hook up the wires.. done!! Let the computer do the hard part!

with my heads, cams and such, the computer is going to need tuned, new MAF, have to run the set up for an 02 sensor,
plus, lets see what parts i currently need for the carb'd motor that i dont have...

lets see what i need for a good efi setup
intake, maf, tb, injectors, wiring, computer, 02...

I've dealt plenty of times with modified FI rigs. For the purpose of this thing, a carb is very easy to work on. My father can rebuild and tune a Q-jet to run better than anything i have driven. My 74 bronco would fire up after sitting for a month, idle like a champ, and knock down 17mpg. And i didnt have to worry about any of the issues that EFI would have if something went wrong on the trail.

You're not going to convince me.

jposey66 · 12-12-2008, 12:12 PM

Like everyone else says, go EFI. I did it! Nah, to each his own. We like what we like. If you like carbs, go with it. The unfortunate thing is that the truck is already set up for EFI, with the high pressure pump and a return line.

I used sn95 accessories and brackets, to get more fan clearance and started out with electric fans. There just isn't enough rooom to get a decent electric fan in there. With body movement, the electric fan would still touch the water pump pulley and was chewing the fan blades up....and I use solid motor mounts. I ended up swapping to a mechanical fan and have had no problems since. If you have a body lift, you will be able to move the engine back a little further and should be able to clear some electric fans just fine.

Power steering line is made from a new Ford line and an old toyota line end(steering box end).

Radiator is a stock V6 radiator and works great. No overheating at all.

I used an external tranny cooler, as you should, since you want to run a C4, and you want to keep all the extra heat out of the radiator. I run an AOD, which runs a lot cooler than a C4, due to it's lockup.

The factory dash gauges work along with the aftermarket ones that I mounted in the dash, just because it was easy.

I used stock Mustang headers and welded approx 1 ft long extensions onto the outlet, because the flanges were right up against the frame and were going to be a real PITA to get to, especially on the passengers side, where there is very little space between the frame and starter.

My AOD tranny is adapted to a 4 cyl T-case, via advance adapter parts, but I wanted to keep IFS, due to the type offroading I do the most (desert prerunning). Since you are SAS, save your adapter money and just use a Ford T-case and find one that the front output is on the same side of the truck as the front diff.

Hope this helps,

Posey

[ATTACH]4Runner Engine Bay[/ATTACH]

Dusten · 12-12-2008, 10:27 PM

i'll keep my yota t-cases because i am running duals, with a 4:1. but thanks for the info on the radiator.

DudeBud · 12-26-2008, 02:50 PM

do you still have this rig?

Dusten · 01-21-2009, 10:37 PM

no, i sold it to a guy in tri cities. he tore all the suspension off, and put yota axles under it. he's on nwwheelers.com

11-27-2008, 01:56 AM	#3 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 2,398	Remove the pump from the tank. Run the pickup line from the mech fuel pump to one of the steel tubes in the stock pickup. Get a 1 or 2 wire alternator Get a custom PS line made, or even use an adapter (see pirate4x4 for part numbers) Reuse your stock gauges and senders. Oil pressure sender should thread right into the block, water temp you will just need an adapter. __________________ 88 4Runner. 350 V8, R150 5-speed. SAS, 36" TSL's, elocker rear

12-02-2008, 07:38 PM	#4 (permalink)
Dusten Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: College Place, wa Posts: 37	thanks guys __________________ 88 4Runner 3.0/5spd/dual cases with JPeater 4:1 low Dana 60 w/ detroit elocker, 5.13's, Hysteer and Hyrdo Assist 14 Bolt with detroit locker, 5.13 and disc brakes. 52" front springs, 63" rears with z-boxes and trac bar OBA off the stock ac with 8 gallon tank. Custom front, rear bumpers and rock sliders. 39.5x13.5 IROKS

12-04-2008, 02:00 AM	#6 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 2,398	Do like I did....go carb'ed and plan on EFI later on down the road. Look for deals and collect parts as you go. __________________ 88 4Runner. 350 V8, R150 5-speed. SAS, 36" TSL's, elocker rear

12-12-2008, 12:12 PM	#10 (permalink)
jposey66 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Madison, Alabama Posts: 78	Like everyone else says, go EFI. I did it! Nah, to each his own. We like what we like. If you like carbs, go with it. The unfortunate thing is that the truck is already set up for EFI, with the high pressure pump and a return line. I used sn95 accessories and brackets, to get more fan clearance and started out with electric fans. There just isn't enough rooom to get a decent electric fan in there. With body movement, the electric fan would still touch the water pump pulley and was chewing the fan blades up....and I use solid motor mounts. I ended up swapping to a mechanical fan and have had no problems since. If you have a body lift, you will be able to move the engine back a little further and should be able to clear some electric fans just fine. Power steering line is made from a new Ford line and an old toyota line end(steering box end). Radiator is a stock V6 radiator and works great. No overheating at all. I used an external tranny cooler, as you should, since you want to run a C4, and you want to keep all the extra heat out of the radiator. I run an AOD, which runs a lot cooler than a C4, due to it's lockup. The factory dash gauges work along with the aftermarket ones that I mounted in the dash, just because it was easy. I used stock Mustang headers and welded approx 1 ft long extensions onto the outlet, because the flanges were right up against the frame and were going to be a real PITA to get to, especially on the passengers side, where there is very little space between the frame and starter. My AOD tranny is adapted to a 4 cyl T-case, via advance adapter parts, but I wanted to keep IFS, due to the type offroading I do the most (desert prerunning). Since you are SAS, save your adapter money and just use a Ford T-case and find one that the front output is on the same side of the truck as the front diff. Hope this helps, Posey [ATTACH]4Runner Engine Bay[/ATTACH] Attached Thumbnails __________________ 88 4Runner, 5.0L EFI, AOD, W56 T-Case, Total Chaos Gen II IFS, King coilovers in front, King shocks in rear, 63" Chevy rear springs, 33" BFG mud's, Lock-Rite in front, Detroit Tru-trac in rear www.LocosMocos.com Last edited by jposey66; 12-29-2008 at 07:48 AM.

12-12-2008, 10:27 PM	#11 (permalink)
Dusten Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: College Place, wa Posts: 37	i'll keep my yota t-cases because i am running duals, with a 4:1. but thanks for the info on the radiator. __________________ 88 4Runner 3.0/5spd/dual cases with JPeater 4:1 low Dana 60 w/ detroit elocker, 5.13's, Hysteer and Hyrdo Assist 14 Bolt with detroit locker, 5.13 and disc brakes. 52" front springs, 63" rears with z-boxes and trac bar OBA off the stock ac with 8 gallon tank. Custom front, rear bumpers and rock sliders. 39.5x13.5 IROKS

12-26-2008, 02:50 PM	#12 (permalink)
DudeBud Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: WA ,monroe Posts: 1,886	do you still have this rig? __________________ Dan 95 4runner 3vze A/T 84 4runner sr5 Ford 302 T-18 4spd yota t-case yota front and rear both open 37X13.00 boggers 88 4runner 22re 5spd

01-21-2009, 10:37 PM	#13 (permalink)
Dusten Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: College Place, wa Posts: 37	no, i sold it to a guy in tri cities. he tore all the suspension off, and put yota axles under it. he's on nwwheelers.com __________________ 88 4Runner 3.0/5spd/dual cases with JPeater 4:1 low Dana 60 w/ detroit elocker, 5.13's, Hysteer and Hyrdo Assist 14 Bolt with detroit locker, 5.13 and disc brakes. 52" front springs, 63" rears with z-boxes and trac bar OBA off the stock ac with 8 gallon tank. Custom front, rear bumpers and rock sliders. 39.5x13.5 IROKS

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