3.0L to 5.7L

Adam F · 05-09-2008, 06:51 PM

Time has finally come to swap from the 3.0L 3vze to a 5.7L 350 Chevy small block V8. I've been talking about it for years, but I am finally able to make it happen.

I decided to keep my stock R150 5 speed transmission. Several reasons why. I like 5 speeds. Stock crawl ratio is twice as low compared to that of the TH350/NP203, and no driveline modifications will be nessisary. And I know my trans shifts good and is reliable.

The engine came from a 1976 Chevy K5 Blazer. It was a "crate" motor dropped in a few years back by a friend of the family. I beleive its stock internals, but I don't know for sure. Its got 4 bolt mains, edelbrock performer intake and carb, GM HEI ignition, and ebay block hugger headers. The motor ran great when I pulled it from the Blazer, so I diddnt rebuild it. I replaced every gasket besides the headgaskets, replaced the timing chain, and basic tune up parts like plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv, fuel filter, etc. I then gave it a paint job. Here are some pics.

As she sat in the Blazer.

On the engine stand, stripped and degreased

4 bolt mains

Valvetrain looks good

After paint

After getting the motor prepped, I started on removing the engine from the 4Runner. I am working on it in my single car garage, so space is very limited. I decided the best thing to do would be to cut the core support out so I could lift the engine out on the hoist in the garage. With the garage door open, there is not much room overhead. Plus the core support is damaged from a run in with a tree, so it needs to be straightened anyway. So I cut all the spot welds with a spot weld cutter, and removed the core support. I yanked the engine out separate from the trans.

The engine ran great before I pulled it, just had a injector leak. I was able to part it out and make some money, which helped to buy parts for the swap. I also made some money on parting out the old Blazer.

After the engine was out, I stripped out anything no longer needed for the 350. I then painted the engine bay flat black, since the rest of the truck will be painted flat black soon. Also while the engine was out, I decided to fix the shoddy SAS job performed a few years back. The spring hanger sat crooked, and the frame tubes for the shackles were not fully welded, leaving gaps in the frame. I Cleaned the frame up, patched holes, moved the hanger forward, leveled it, and welded it back on.

Then came installing the clutch and bellhousing parts from Advanced Adapters. The kit uses a stock Land Cruiser slave cylinder. It uses the same clutch line fitting as stock. The kit comes with a special rod to use in the cylinder and a special clutch fork. You also have to remove the stock crank bushing and install a custom unit provided it the kit. I drove the old bushing out using the punch tool that was included in spark plug repair kit I had used on the 3.0. It was a perfect fit. I filled the bushing cavity with grease and pounded it out. I used a 10.5" 153 tooth flywheel. Its made by Zoom, part number 50-656. The pressure plate is a high pressure unit from Centerforce. The clutch disk is a custom hybrid unit specially made by Centerforce. It uses a stock Aisin center section, with a 10.5" friction disk. The stock friction disk is much smaller. Everything bolted up nicely. There were a few machining defects, but they appear to be strictly cosmetic.

Kit components

Pilot bushing installed

Tool used to install bushing

Clutch components installed

Defects in bellhousing

Bellhousing installed

The bellhousing does not include a rubber boot for the shift fork. I reused the stock one, but it still leaves a gap. I'll worry about that later.

Engine and trans bolted up

Then, with a series of chains and ratchet straps, I installed the engine and trans together to get an idea of where she will sit with the transmission in the stock mount.

It quickly became obvious that the engine was way too far forward with the trans in the stock location. So its going to have to get moved back a few inches. AA does sell a motor mount kit that includes a trans mount relocater, but I'm going to come up with something on my own. I'm either going to copy their design, or cut and weld the stock crossmember. That is where I left off. I need to do some measurements and decide if I want to make an adapter or cut and weld the crossmember. I'm leaning towards cutting and welding. I'm thinking I could cut the center section of the crossmember, move it back a few inches, and weld it back in along with some extra material to bridge the gap, then reinforce it with some gussets. I don't have the money to buy a new crossmember. Maybe later on down the road. I shouldnt have to do anything to the drive shafts. My rear drive shaft is already pulled half way out of the slip with my lift, so moving the trans back a few inches will actually be good since it should put the slip back somewhere around where it was stock. The front drive shaft is a square tube, and had plenty of extension left, so I shouldnt have to touch that either.

I'll update this thread when I get more work done. Its coming along slowly since free time is hard to come by with a 7 month old baby and my wife working late hours.

john rumbo · 05-12-2008, 10:25 AM

looks good keep up the good work

sh0kk86 · 06-25-2008, 12:57 AM

are you using a kit? downey, aa, or home made?

Adam F · 06-25-2008, 06:10 AM

Bellhousing is made by Advance Adapters. Uses a stock Land Cruiser FJ80 slave cylinder. Clutch disk is custom made for Advance Adapters by centerforce, clutch plate is centerforce. Everything else is custom.

Adam F · 07-01-2008, 04:16 PM

Got the motor mounts burned on today. Welds dont look pretty, but they are strong.

Next I will build the t-case crossmember. Here's what I'm starting with. My stock rubber t-case mount is worn out. Instead of paying $100 for a new stock mount, I'm going to use parts of the old mount along with some bushings and tube I had laying around to make some new ones. I got the idea from Jayk's project on 4x4wire . PICTURE That is of the 4cy mount. The 6cy mount looks a little different, but I think I can make it work.

I mounted the motor and trans up as high as I could since I have a 3" body lift. The new crossmember should give me a good amount of extra ground clearance compared to stock..

Adam F · 07-10-2008, 03:58 PM

Made some good progress on the transfer case crossmember and mount. Thanks to JayK for the idea!

The flat piece of steel used for the crossmember was some scrap steel I got from work. I have 2 other pieces just like it. Its almost long enough to go from frame rail to frame rail. I will cut up some of it at an angle and mount it to the rear 2 stock crossmember mounting bolts.

fillsrunner4 · 07-10-2008, 04:06 PM

You got a 60 in the rear of that thing?

Looks good

mrdoug · 07-11-2008, 09:15 AM

Man that is a clean swap job... I'm in awe and only slightly jealous. I need to get a wife and twin 7 month olds to have enough of an excuse for the lack of progress on my truck.

I really like your motor mounts. Where'd you get the bushings for those?

I have a 350 in my 85 that was put in by somebody else, it's way to far forward too (used the stock trany location, placed the motor accordingly, causing me headaches). I've been thinking bout pulling it and re-positioning it but haven't figured out the motor mounts yet. I like what you did and might steal the design.

Adam F · 08-16-2008, 04:57 PM

I redid the transfer case crossmsmber. Took me a while to get it done, but it will give me MUCH more clearance than the version before it. I only have this blury pic to show of it, I'll try to take more later.

I got all of the wiring ran and sensors installed. Water temp sensor needed a thread adapter, but the oil pressure sender had the same threads, just needed a 90 degree adapter to fit around the intake manifold.

Next I'm running the fuel lines and filter. Just have to bend up some metal lines and hook stuff up.

Adam F · 08-16-2008, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrdoug

Man that is a clean swap job... I'm in awe and only slightly jealous. I need to get a wife and twin 7 month olds to have enough of an excuse for the lack of progress on my truck.

I really like your motor mounts. Where'd you get the bushings for those?

Thanks!

Mounts are from here

http://www.diy4x.com/engine.htm

Just without the frame mounted portion.

Hardest part was redesigning the tcase xmember.

ozziesironmanoffroad · 08-16-2008, 05:17 PM

looks great bro

Adam F · 08-24-2008, 11:35 AM

I dropped the distributor and wired up the spark plugs. Fits nicely. Still need to get some hose, clamps, and a fitting for the water pump for the heater hose. It's getting close to firing up, I cant hardly wait!

yotasavg · 08-24-2008, 11:45 AM

looks real good!!!

Adam F · 09-01-2008, 08:08 AM

After dealing with some wiring issues, I finally figured things out and got the engine to run! I turned it over until the gauge read some oil pressure, and I then fired it up!

Here's a video on google

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...76461694&hl=en

Tonight I'm going to work on re-wiring a few things, mainly the 12+ to the ignition, and the switched ignition + running to the distributor, which had full battery voltage when I tested the wire without being plugged into the distributor, but as soon as I plugged it in, it dropped to 6v, and only 4v when cranking. The distributor requires no less than 7 volts. I'm planning on running a relay to the distributor, using the original wire as a trigger.

Then I'll start on the cooling system.

**Yoda** · 09-01-2008, 09:06 AM

Sounds good!

Do you have the 3 hole alternator support bracket? One hole is at the bottom alt (where your ground wire is) and the other 2 are at the waterpump.
The bolt will fatigue and break off without it.

Adam F · 09-04-2008, 07:24 AM

You know what, I have that bracket but I couldnt remember where it went! Now I do! Thanks!

space-junk · 09-25-2008, 07:24 PM

hows the swap commin along??

Adam F · 10-05-2008, 04:29 PM

Got the cooling system in and working. I originally planned on running the stock radiator in the stock location, with the taurus fan mounted in front of the radiator. Somehow it wont fit, so I went with an aluminum radiator from a 1987 Chevy Camaro. It is MUCH wider than stock, but thinner and shorter. This allowed me to mount it on top of the front crossmember and still be able to close the hood. But it also meant extensivly hacking the core support. I kind of hurried on the job here, and I really don't like the way it came out. Maybe when I swap to TBI I will also re-do the radiator mounting. But for now it will work fine. The grill will not fit now, so I'm going to have to hack it up to fit it.

Taurus fan cools VERY well on high. Temp gauge stays a little below the middle, just as it did with the stock V6. But as soon as I shut the fan off, it starts creeping up. At idle with the fan off, the its charging at 14.09v. With the fan on high, it drops to 13.5v. This is a 60 amp alternator. I have a 105amp alternator ready to put it.

I still have some little wiring issues. The starter solenoid I was going to use for the fan isnt working for some reason, and the 12v switched wire that fed the ignition relay isnt giving me any voltage anymore. So I'll have to rewire the relay and find a new solenoid for the fan. No big deal.

I hooked up the front driveshaft to pull it out of the garage. Theres only a few inches of slip left in the front shaft, so I'll have to rebuild it. And the rear shaft will have to be shortened.

I had to cut about 6 inches of sheet metal in the cab to accomodate the transfer case shifter's new location. Fits well though, actually better a little further back than the stock location.

Then it needs an exhaust. I still have to figure it out. Money is the issue at hand. I'm trying to figure out a way to run pipes out and over the frame rails and dump behind the doors. Going to run 2 cherry bomb glass packs. I'm hoping I can run the pipe up and over the frame in between the body, since I have a 3" body lift. And then mount the glasspack on the frame rail. Should be cheap and effective. And when I build some rock sliders they will be protected.

05-09-2008, 06:51 PM	#1 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	3.0L to 5.7L Time has finally come to swap from the 3.0L 3vze to a 5.7L 350 Chevy small block V8. I've been talking about it for years, but I am finally able to make it happen. I decided to keep my stock R150 5 speed transmission. Several reasons why. I like 5 speeds. Stock crawl ratio is twice as low compared to that of the TH350/NP203, and no driveline modifications will be nessisary. And I know my trans shifts good and is reliable. The engine came from a 1976 Chevy K5 Blazer. It was a "crate" motor dropped in a few years back by a friend of the family. I beleive its stock internals, but I don't know for sure. Its got 4 bolt mains, edelbrock performer intake and carb, GM HEI ignition, and ebay block hugger headers. The motor ran great when I pulled it from the Blazer, so I diddnt rebuild it. I replaced every gasket besides the headgaskets, replaced the timing chain, and basic tune up parts like plugs, wires, cap, rotor, pcv, fuel filter, etc. I then gave it a paint job. Here are some pics. As she sat in the Blazer. On the engine stand, stripped and degreased 4 bolt mains Valvetrain looks good After paint After getting the motor prepped, I started on removing the engine from the 4Runner. I am working on it in my single car garage, so space is very limited. I decided the best thing to do would be to cut the core support out so I could lift the engine out on the hoist in the garage. With the garage door open, there is not much room overhead. Plus the core support is damaged from a run in with a tree, so it needs to be straightened anyway. So I cut all the spot welds with a spot weld cutter, and removed the core support. I yanked the engine out separate from the trans. The engine ran great before I pulled it, just had a injector leak. I was able to part it out and make some money, which helped to buy parts for the swap. I also made some money on parting out the old Blazer. After the engine was out, I stripped out anything no longer needed for the 350. I then painted the engine bay flat black, since the rest of the truck will be painted flat black soon. Also while the engine was out, I decided to fix the shoddy SAS job performed a few years back. The spring hanger sat crooked, and the frame tubes for the shackles were not fully welded, leaving gaps in the frame. I Cleaned the frame up, patched holes, moved the hanger forward, leveled it, and welded it back on. Then came installing the clutch and bellhousing parts from Advanced Adapters. The kit uses a stock Land Cruiser slave cylinder. It uses the same clutch line fitting as stock. The kit comes with a special rod to use in the cylinder and a special clutch fork. You also have to remove the stock crank bushing and install a custom unit provided it the kit. I drove the old bushing out using the punch tool that was included in spark plug repair kit I had used on the 3.0. It was a perfect fit. I filled the bushing cavity with grease and pounded it out. I used a 10.5" 153 tooth flywheel. Its made by Zoom, part number 50-656. The pressure plate is a high pressure unit from Centerforce. The clutch disk is a custom hybrid unit specially made by Centerforce. It uses a stock Aisin center section, with a 10.5" friction disk. The stock friction disk is much smaller. Everything bolted up nicely. There were a few machining defects, but they appear to be strictly cosmetic. Kit components Pilot bushing installed Tool used to install bushing Clutch components installed Defects in bellhousing Bellhousing installed The bellhousing does not include a rubber boot for the shift fork. I reused the stock one, but it still leaves a gap. I'll worry about that later. Engine and trans bolted up Then, with a series of chains and ratchet straps, I installed the engine and trans together to get an idea of where she will sit with the transmission in the stock mount. It quickly became obvious that the engine was way too far forward with the trans in the stock location. So its going to have to get moved back a few inches. AA does sell a motor mount kit that includes a trans mount relocater, but I'm going to come up with something on my own. I'm either going to copy their design, or cut and weld the stock crossmember. That is where I left off. I need to do some measurements and decide if I want to make an adapter or cut and weld the crossmember. I'm leaning towards cutting and welding. I'm thinking I could cut the center section of the crossmember, move it back a few inches, and weld it back in along with some extra material to bridge the gap, then reinforce it with some gussets. I don't have the money to buy a new crossmember. Maybe later on down the road. I shouldnt have to do anything to the drive shafts. My rear drive shaft is already pulled half way out of the slip with my lift, so moving the trans back a few inches will actually be good since it should put the slip back somewhere around where it was stock. The front drive shaft is a square tube, and had plenty of extension left, so I shouldnt have to touch that either. I'll update this thread when I get more work done. Its coming along slowly since free time is hard to come by with a 7 month old baby and my wife working late hours. __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap

05-12-2008, 10:25 AM	#2 (permalink)
john rumbo Registered User Join Date: May 2008 Location: casa grande az Posts: 150	looks good keep up the good work __________________ bigblockyota 884runner chevy 454 fuelinjected fullsize chevy dana 60 axles 14bolt rear 5.38grs spools frt,rrear 4wheel disc conversion tur400 trns 203 dbler 205 tranfer aprox 8-10 inch lift 37inch tslboogers 3inch magnaflow exhaust msd ingn aluminum rad ,flex fan 56 , inch spring conversion w8000lbcomp winch and bumper and just added a full hydraulic psc steering kit

06-25-2008, 12:57 AM	#3 (permalink)
sh0kk86 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Phoenix, Arizona Posts: 503	are you using a kit? downey, aa, or home made? __________________ 1986 Toyota 22r Short bed Pickup \| 33x10.5x15 BFG MT's

06-25-2008, 06:10 AM	#4 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	Bellhousing is made by Advance Adapters. Uses a stock Land Cruiser FJ80 slave cylinder. Clutch disk is custom made for Advance Adapters by centerforce, clutch plate is centerforce. Everything else is custom. __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap

07-01-2008, 04:16 PM	#5 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	Got the motor mounts burned on today. Welds dont look pretty, but they are strong. Next I will build the t-case crossmember. Here's what I'm starting with. My stock rubber t-case mount is worn out. Instead of paying $100 for a new stock mount, I'm going to use parts of the old mount along with some bushings and tube I had laying around to make some new ones. I got the idea from Jayk's project on 4x4wire . PICTURE That is of the 4cy mount. The 6cy mount looks a little different, but I think I can make it work. I mounted the motor and trans up as high as I could since I have a 3" body lift. The new crossmember should give me a good amount of extra ground clearance compared to stock.. __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap

07-10-2008, 03:58 PM	#6 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	Made some good progress on the transfer case crossmember and mount. Thanks to JayK for the idea! The flat piece of steel used for the crossmember was some scrap steel I got from work. I have 2 other pieces just like it. Its almost long enough to go from frame rail to frame rail. I will cut up some of it at an angle and mount it to the rear 2 stock crossmember mounting bolts. __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap

07-10-2008, 04:06 PM	#7 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	You got a 60 in the rear of that thing? Looks good __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

07-11-2008, 09:15 AM	#8 (permalink)
mrdoug Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Loveland, CO Posts: 55	Man that is a clean swap job... I'm in awe and only slightly jealous. I need to get a wife and twin 7 month olds to have enough of an excuse for the lack of progress on my truck. I really like your motor mounts. Where'd you get the bushings for those? I have a 350 in my 85 that was put in by somebody else, it's way to far forward too (used the stock trany location, placed the motor accordingly, causing me headaches). I've been thinking bout pulling it and re-positioning it but haven't figured out the motor mounts yet. I like what you did and might steal the design. __________________ DD - 02 ext-cab Taco, SAW/AAL lift, Armor a la budbuilt, bentup and badlands, manual hub conversion, 265/75-16 TKO's Project - 85 ext-cab lawn ornament

08-16-2008, 04:57 PM	#9 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	I redid the transfer case crossmsmber. Took me a while to get it done, but it will give me MUCH more clearance than the version before it. I only have this blury pic to show of it, I'll try to take more later. I got all of the wiring ran and sensors installed. Water temp sensor needed a thread adapter, but the oil pressure sender had the same threads, just needed a 90 degree adapter to fit around the intake manifold. Next I'm running the fuel lines and filter. Just have to bend up some metal lines and hook stuff up. __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap

08-16-2008, 05:17 PM	#11 (permalink)
ozziesironmanoffroad Contributing Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Spring Valley, CA Posts: 4,191	looks great bro __________________ The 22r series engines are made from the fires of hell, and will fight tooth and nail to not be sent back. 1988 Toyota P/U 4x4 22RE 258,000 miles on original motor pioneer CD deck 31x10.50x15 BFG A/T BAJA 100W lights on prerunner bumper KC Daylighters 100W rancho rs5000 MUD IS A VALID PAINT JOB! If not living life to the fullest, why live it? my trucks official buildup thread

08-24-2008, 11:35 AM	#12 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	I dropped the distributor and wired up the spark plugs. Fits nicely. Still need to get some hose, clamps, and a fitting for the water pump for the heater hose. It's getting close to firing up, I cant hardly wait! __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap

08-24-2008, 11:45 AM	#13 (permalink)
yotasavg Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chico Republic, NOR*CAL Posts: 1,527	looks real good!!! __________________ -Andrew 94 4Runner 3.0 Auto. I got mods

09-01-2008, 08:08 AM	#14 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	After dealing with some wiring issues, I finally figured things out and got the engine to run! I turned it over until the gauge read some oil pressure, and I then fired it up! Here's a video on google http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...76461694&hl=en Tonight I'm going to work on re-wiring a few things, mainly the 12+ to the ignition, and the switched ignition + running to the distributor, which had full battery voltage when I tested the wire without being plugged into the distributor, but as soon as I plugged it in, it dropped to 6v, and only 4v when cranking. The distributor requires no less than 7 volts. I'm planning on running a relay to the distributor, using the original wire as a trigger. Then I'll start on the cooling system. __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap

09-01-2008, 09:06 AM	#15 (permalink)
Yoda Super Moderator Staff Join Date: May 2002 Location: North Bend, WA Posts: 2,649	Sounds good! Do you have the 3 hole alternator support bracket? One hole is at the bottom alt (where your ground wire is) and the other 2 are at the waterpump. The bolt will fatigue and break off without it. __________________ David TLCA 14788 71 Landcruiser FJ-40 TBI 327, TH-350, Warn 8000, disk axle swap. 76 Landcruiser FJ-40 project/parts (haven't decided)

09-04-2008, 07:24 AM	#16 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	You know what, I have that bracket but I couldnt remember where it went! Now I do! Thanks! __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap

10-05-2008, 04:29 PM	#18 (permalink)
Adam F Registered User Join Date: May 2002 Location: Cincinnati Ohio Posts: 1,992	Got the cooling system in and working. I originally planned on running the stock radiator in the stock location, with the taurus fan mounted in front of the radiator. Somehow it wont fit, so I went with an aluminum radiator from a 1987 Chevy Camaro. It is MUCH wider than stock, but thinner and shorter. This allowed me to mount it on top of the front crossmember and still be able to close the hood. But it also meant extensivly hacking the core support. I kind of hurried on the job here, and I really don't like the way it came out. Maybe when I swap to TBI I will also re-do the radiator mounting. But for now it will work fine. The grill will not fit now, so I'm going to have to hack it up to fit it. Taurus fan cools VERY well on high. Temp gauge stays a little below the middle, just as it did with the stock V6. But as soon as I shut the fan off, it starts creeping up. At idle with the fan off, the its charging at 14.09v. With the fan on high, it drops to 13.5v. This is a 60 amp alternator. I have a 105amp alternator ready to put it. I still have some little wiring issues. The starter solenoid I was going to use for the fan isnt working for some reason, and the 12v switched wire that fed the ignition relay isnt giving me any voltage anymore. So I'll have to rewire the relay and find a new solenoid for the fan. No big deal. I hooked up the front driveshaft to pull it out of the garage. Theres only a few inches of slip left in the front shaft, so I'll have to rebuild it. And the rear shaft will have to be shortened. I had to cut about 6 inches of sheet metal in the cab to accomodate the transfer case shifter's new location. Fits well though, actually better a little further back than the stock location. Then it needs an exhaust. I still have to figure it out. Money is the issue at hand. I'm trying to figure out a way to run pipes out and over the frame rails and dump behind the doors. Going to run 2 cherry bomb glass packs. I'm hoping I can run the pipe up and over the frame in between the body, since I have a 3" body lift. And then mount the glasspack on the frame rail. Should be cheap and effective. And when I build some rock sliders they will be protected. __________________ Parting out 3vze V6, click for details 88 4Runner. In process of V8 swap Last edited by Adam F : 10-05-2008 at 04:31 PM.

10-05-2008, 04:55 PM	#19 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User