nick89toy

You may have to move your A/C condenser. I used a SPAL fan that is only 2 inches thick. Here are some pics that will maybe give you some ideas. You will not be able to use a radiator like mine (speedway 19x26) because I widened my frame rails and my steering box is not in the way like the toyota box would be. Oh, and by the way, I ended up taking that fan shroud off because it blocked too much air at highway speeds.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Damn that's gorgeous. Where did you put the condenser? I will be using the chevy AC at some point... not planning to mess with that till summer or until its at least running

nick89toy

I'm going to move the two coolers that are in front of the radiator to somewhere else and put a condenser where the coolers are.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage...-RH,47313.html with http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Garage...-70,64044.html. If it sits inside the radiator tanks. Depending on the offset it just may fit. I'm going to look for a 2" radiator that is 2" MAX.

That's not a bad idea. I have plenty of room in the bay to put my PS cooler and tranny cooler with a fan, and considering how light my ride is I doubt it will be taxed too much.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Is that 2 inch fan the SPAL one that only does 1000cfm? And it is able to handle it? is the 1000cfm 2in depth one I could find. If not I'd have to go with that other 200 dollar fan.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Nick when you get a chance whats the model of that fan? The one I found that was 2in from spall only moves 1000 CFM. Also what MPG are you getting?

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Also here is where I am with the wiring. I had most of it figured out on the Yota side over the summer, then somehow the masking tape labeling all of the wires to the dash wandered off except for the CEL light and the 4x4 light. If you happen to know what wires correspond on the dash with any on the list below, please let me know. You will get a digital (theoretical) cookie.

Also if you have a part number for the HCV or the speedometer cable as the jackass that painted my truck ripped it out. Also below is a teaser pic.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Alright an update I have figured out all of the wiring minus the keyed ignition thats on for on and when the starter is cranked (I found the black and red wire in the column that does it). My question is, everything else (blinkers, headlights, radio, etc) should be run off the other ignition that is on when the key is on or on accessory but not on during ST1, which would mean IG2 is only vital engine items, which are all gone since it is an ls1. can I just cut this at the steering column and splice in to IG2 and I shouldn't loose anything correct?

Also, where is the switch that the backup lights are connected too? I need to run a wire from my new ECM to there with a relay or if its already got a relay replace the signal wire.

My harness guy didn't include oil pressure or temp wires :/ Hopefully he will send them. in the meantime I bought a Bluetooth OBDII adapter and will be using the Torque app for gauges.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Got it. Turns out black wire red stripe is not the same wire on both sides of the harness. So, of course, I cut the wrong one first. Still need to figure out where these backup wires are... Any help would be awesome!

Bumpin' Yota

You may have better success with two smaller fans in a diagnal mounted setup. Most fans get thinner near their periphery and a smaller dual fan setup could maximize this advantage. My GTO (and all GTOs) have this setup too.

Bajallama

I just finished the same swap. I have an 84 Runner. It already had a 350 in it when I bought it. I took it out an swapped in the 5.3 4l60e with an NP208 passenger drop. I modified the 350 mounts to work (I think they were the NWOR ones). Headers were a pita, ended up with some knock off hooker block huggers. I tried the GTO ones with no luck, the frame rails on these trucks are too narrow. I have a 4" suspension lift and a 2" body lift and the hood barely closes. Oil pan is definitely a problem however. I picked up an camaro ls1 pan which works, but I have limited suspension travel until the diff hits the pan. still gotta cut a chunk out of it. I used the v6 radiator moved out abit with the NWOR kit for v8's then got a pusher fan from a Mercedes out of the junkyard and mounted it behind the grill. Keep the truck cool in traffic in 100+ degrees so I'm content for now. Getting around 19mpg I'm guessing with 35's.

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

What did you do about the fuel lines? Mine is a Turbo EFI setup so I'm going to try the factory pump, but it has one main line coming from the tank, a return, and a vent line. Where should the vent line go?

Bajallama

Well it depends if you have a returnless LM7 or not. Most are returnless, in which case you get the corvette fuel filter. It has the pressure regulator built in. It's about 25 bucks I think. It has only three fittings on it. Two from the tank and one goes to the fuel rail. So one will come from your fuel pump feed (probably the pressure line with the banjo fittings.) and then the other is the return back to the tank. Since you are already EFI you should have both. Although make sure that fuel pump can handle the demands. I went with an external pump so its easy to change out on the trail if it goes bad. GM uses the quick connect connectors which are all plastic. You'll have to figure out how to go from toyota -> GM by making a custom line.

Bajallama

vent line goes to your charcoal canister, if you have one

MrArmyAnt

iTrader: (1)

Definitely threw the charcoal canister out, and my LS1 fuel rail has the return on it. So how do I identify which line is return and which is evap line? And if I just connect a canister to the evap line I should be in the clear? Where shuld the line go after into a charcoal line?

I got the doorman universal connects for the fuel lines and did double EFI clamps on efi line. I'm going to try the factory pump, it seems like I looked up the specs on it verse a truck and it was above what was needed. We shall see.

That's awesome on the fuel economy. I never should have sold my turbo radiator damnit. I wish I had known the v6's would cool enough my monster fan would have worked instead of the 2" spall I got and would have mounted more stock. If this radiator bites it I'll be going back to a v6 one.

Bajallama

not sure, but the vent line might be the smaller of the two. If you take the unit out of tank, the return line will drop towards the pickup. If you don't want the charcoal canister than just vent it to atmosphere, but in a roll over you might have an issue. if you run the charcoal canister, I believe the other end goes back into your intake track. Its an emissions device

Krazy Ken

The headers are one of my biggest fears with this swap, do you remember what brand block huggers they are or where you got them from?

Bajallama

They were a chinese knockoff from ebay, horrible fit and the plugs hit the runners. I had to modify them quite a bit to get them to fit. The hooker Ls1 block huggers should work without a problem though.

zanewomack

Guys Im trying to dig thru all the form postings to gather some info. I just
bought a 1991 4runner with the gutless 3.0 in it. I have a full roller fresh
rebuild 350 bored 60 over from a project I just sold. The cam is very mild to
stock and
I have my choice of a 1998 spider fuel injection system( have to buy a fuel pump and crank trigger so thinking about just selling it), 1993 throttle body, or
carb set up. I will be running a 4l60e for the tranny a 341 transfer. I'm going
to put a 3" body lift and beef up the suspension a little. I would like to know
of any hang ups you ran into, drive shaft lengths(same as a 700R4)? Will shorty
headers work or do I have to use the ones from A-adapters. I know i will have to
use ladder bars or just build a 4 link. Main thing is the quick turn around from
engine pull to 350 in and running. i will have it running on my stand before
putting it in so I'm mainly looking for the bolt up info and If I can get the
drive shafts pre made that would be great. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Bumpin' Yota

any updates MrArmyAnt?