draggin209

8 weeks consider yourself lucky it took over 4 months for me to get my parts

Circle

I'm not trying to compete with anybody, but my word is my bond. If he told me it would take 8 weeks to ship, then I would have made other arrangements with the machine shop doing the work. This ˟˟˟˟ is costing me $75/hour cause I'm not a mechanic and Brian told me he had all the parts and answers ready to go. Now the machine shop is pissed at me cause they aren't getting the things I promised them.

I'm fully aware that other people have had worse experiences, but my only other mode of transportation needs to go into the shop too, so I need this swap finished ASAP or I'm going to be in a serious predicament. As I stated, my intentions were not just to bitch, but to inform people who are in the decision making process of buying a conversion kit. This conversion should go like clockwork now as many people have done it, but thanks to one guy who tells you one thing and then does something else, it's extremely frustrating to many of us. All I ask is that people do the things they tell you they are going to do. That's how I live my life, and I expect the same from others. If I lived within a days drive of Lebanon, OR, I promise you I would have driven there and confronted him face to face by now.

draggin209

Oh ya I know man. He told me itll ship the Wednesday following when I paid him. And I didnt get it til close to 5 months later. BUT my parts were of great quality unlike some others had gotten.

Circle

I hope I can say the same when my conversion is finished. On the two occasions I've been able to reach Brian on the phone, he was incredibly informative and helpful. I could sense he was passionate about his work, which is what gave me the confidence to spend almost $2k on the complete V6 swap kit. Now, I know he has some health issues, but who doesn't have issues? My mother had 3 knee surgeries last year. We can trade war stories for days. All I need is for the man to answer a few simple questions, via text message or phone or whatever, and ship things when he says he will, and I could have already saved 4 weeks of time on this project. It is simply inexcusable. Sorry for the all negative energy, but I may get a job that requires me to travel in a couple weeks. And since Brian can't find the time to answer a fu3king text, I don't even know if this project will get finished before I have to leave the country.

waltt

There's a new guy making adaptors Josh Sherfy. He seems to b on the ball. u can find him on fb toyotahaulcs. he's willing to sell them for around $400 plus shipping. he's also making other stuff blockoff plates, oil filter relocate plates, exhust flanges ect....

MrMightyMouse

Same story with Brian here too. I paid him back in October. in november he promised to ship the kit within the week, its been a month since he made me that promise… No more excuses. I want my kit or my money back. He said to me that it is ready to ship. I wonder if I physically went there if i would be able to go home with my kit? I'm leaning toward doubtful.

draggin209

I had Moro send me instructions but can't open them.. Anyone else have them that they can email me

scruffy390

I need instructions also. If you anyone could email them to me @ hawkeye390@gmail.com it would be greatly appreciated

waltt

Go onto the toyotahaulks page on facebook and start talking ˟˟˟˟ about him. i seem to always get a responce that way.

Circle

Someone emailed me some instructions. Here they are below. Just copy and paste.

Instructions for OM617 to W56 conversion

Vehicle Prep.
1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove radiator and hoses and heater hoses from firewall and power steering lines.
3. Unplug all wiring. Mark oil psi, coolant temp and starter, idle up solenoid, and fuel lines.


4. Remove starter, exhaust and intake plumbing.
5. Remove engine.
6. Remove clutch and fly wheel, oil psi sending unit , coolant temp sending unit, "single wire", and rubber motor mounts.
7. On '88 and older PU '89 - 4 Runner, you will need to take a large hammer to a 2x4 or similar piece of wood and dent the firewall in where the ebrake comes through 3/8 - 1/2 "
8. Remove steering stablizer.

617 Prep
1. Remove motor mounts and install new TDSwaps mounts with Toyota rubber insulators and new flat washers. Re-use 617 and Toyota nuts.
2. Remove power steering pump, fuel filter mount, and power steering pump mount. Attach dipstick mount to rear sinlge bolt attaching PS mount.
3. Reinstall pump and fuel filter mount using new TDSwaps mount and hardware.
4. Remove 617 alternator and upper alternator mount. Grind lower alternator mount for CS130 GM alternator and replace upper bracket with TDSwaps bracket.


5. Remove oil pan and replace with TDSwaps notched pan and gasket.
6. Remove flexplate, flywheel, and bellhousing adapter.
7. Instal TDSwaps bellhousing adapter with the shorter bolts in the bolts in the top 4 positions.
8. Clean crank shaft surface where TDSwaps crankshaft/flywheel spacer fits and install spacer and redrilled Toyota flywheel using the Mercedes washer. Put new pilot bearing in crank/flywheel adapter.
9. Tap out oil psi fitting to 1/4NPT and install TDSwaps oil psi adapter and Toyota oil psi sending unit.
10. Remove vacuum controller from the top of valve cover and discard. Install TDSwaps throttle cable mount on top of valve cover.
11. Install Toyota coolant temp sending unit in Mercedes upper water outlet.


12. Use a grinder or cut off wheel and carefully cut through the metal crimp collar until you can remove the old oil cooler hoses from the metal lines, exposing the barbed nipple.


13. Remove front crank pulley to ease installation of engine. Reinstall after engine is in.
14. Cut off old plastic vacuum pump hose from the metal line off the pump, exposing the nipple.
15. Trim water outlet 2 inches from end, leaving last ridge intact.



Installation
1. Install engine with new clutch.
2. Hook up heater hoses using supplied 5/8 - 3/4 reducer clamps and hose. Cut to fit.
3. Depending on bumper style and factory oil cooler size, you can mount the oil cooler laying flat behind the bumper by bolting it to the core support. There are too many variations in oil cooler sizes to have a universal mount solution, but I have included hose and clamps to mount pretty much any style oil cooler.
4. Run the supplid metal fuel lines across the firewall along with the brake lines. Attach using vinyl insulated 1/2" clamps and rubber fuel and hose clamps.



5. Bolt the transmission up using double washers on the bottom bolts.
6. Depending on power steering hose design, your Toyota lines will bolt up - or not. If not then it's a trip to a Napa with a Mercedes end and a Toyota end, should be no more than $40.00
7. Attach the 5/16 hose to the vacuum pump metal line/nipple. Put 5/16 - 1/8 Tee inline before brake booster check valve, run the 1/8 line to the Toyota idle up solenoids single nipple. Run a vacuum line from one of the 2 nipples on the other end of the solenoid to your vacuum engine cut off diaphragm on the back of the injection pump. Leave the the other nipple open or you won't be able to restart your engine, vacuum needs to bleed off after shutdown.


8. One wire needs to go to the ignition. I use red wire from old alternator wiring. The other needs to be grounded.


9. Install GM CS130 sinlge wire alternator, running heavy gauge wire directly to battery (+).
10. Install new belts and adjust tension.
11. Reinstall radiator - Depending on year of vehicle and radiator style, some radiator bracket modification may be necessary for proper clearance between radiator and engine.
12. Trim radiator hoses to fit. Use the supplied 1 3/4 vinyl insulator clamps to secure lower hose away from parts that can rub through. Run two 10 inch pusher fans with an adjustable thermostat.
13. Run your exhaust. It's best for clearance to start at the 4 bolt flange on the back of the turbo and eliminate all factory exhaust flex joints.


14. Run your glow plug wires using a ford starter relay or factory mercedes glow controler.


15. Trim back any unused wires and wrap up your harness.
16. Top off all your fluids and you should be ready to go! Make sure to check all your bolts before and after test drive.

scruffy390

Thanks for the instructions

Captain Jack

A good start. However, this is an opportunity for those who have done this swap to add their input to what has been started. What I would love to see created is a really good step by step set of instructions in its own thread. One with just instructions and no dialog from people thinking about doing the conversion. Questions can be asked on other threads. Just the nut and bolts of what has to be done.

IHI6FAN

Whats the facebook page having trouble finding it was wodering if it was miss spelled. Found tdswaps online was gonna order a kit glad I didnt. Is there any other resources someone can order a whole kit?

draggin209

The only downfall I had from tdswaps was the wait time. My kit fit damn near perfect

MrMightyMouse

The TD Swaps kit I received fits like GARBAGE. I had to pry and hammer to get my motor mounts to attach to the frame. The TD Swaps motor mounts locate the Toyota motor mounts too far forward and upward, so much so that the TD Swaps notched oil pan does not clear the steering and I had to cut and weld the transmission crossmember to move the transmission rearward, over an inch. the power steering relocation bracket did not fit the Mercedes pump and had to be reworked to allow the pump to rotate without binding so that I could adjust the tension on the belt. Brian was too many weeks late sending my kit, the instructions were next to useless, most of the parts do not fit correctly and now I'm having to spend countless hours, reengineering Brian's mess because he does not pick up his phone, EVER. Brian is a huckster who does not keep his word. No one should buy his products!!!! Had I known it was going to take this long to get the parts and that they would not fit, I would have built the mounts myself.

waltt

I agree with everything that Mr Mighty Mouse said. But I would also like to add a few other things since I just got my runner going again. The old engine I had was 1982 the new one is it 85. The pilot bearing adapter fit very snuggly in the 82. Then when I went to go put it on the 85 it started the mushroom out and bend the flange when I tried to press in. there. So I had to take it down to a friend of mine who has a lathe and have it turned down so it would actually fit.Then I realized that the power steering pump bracket is bent inward towards the engine. Causing it to throw belts. And the only way I was able to get the motor mounts on was to take one of the two bolts off the yota motor mount so i could swing it out and get the stud on the motor mount. Nothing that he made was quality. The materials used were good but his work sucks. If I didn't value my freedom I would try to fit the entire kit up his rectum.

ajrhodes

I had to make a different tranny mount cause it was 1 inch back. Now I just found that the steering linkage kits the notched oil pan. Brian told me he was making a new design and blamed someone that was helping him. Said he was going to ship me another one free of charge but anyone that has dealt with him knows it would be 4 months if ever. I am almost done with my swap just going to fab up my own oil pan and probably new oil pick up.

MrMightyMouse

I did a 3" body lift to make room for an exhaust then did about a 2" engine lift to clear the pan and steering. The engine lift gave me the opportunity to ease the stress on the toyota mounts that Brian's "friend" built into the adapters.

drayday55

Glad I sold my stuff..... Gonna go with a 1kz toyota made diesel when my back heals and I win the lottery

waltt

Inchworm makes a really good kit for the 1.9 TDI Volkswagen. And there's also 4x4 labs out there for the Mercedes guys. Luke even has the plates so that we can fab our own motor mounts. I too would love to do the 1kz-te. But they cost way too much.