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I've found extensive build threads on both motors. I will update when I find their links. The Cummins is already a torque wielding beast, but can be massively improved upon (around 150hp and 350 torq).
As for the VW, the highest I've seen is 220hp and 400 torq. The electrical TDI's are way easier to get power out of.
At this point, I'm leaning heavily on the 1.9, as long as I can find one. There are 2 3.3 Cummins here locally if I can't. I dont see the need to start a new build thread for a 1.9 as that's an old swap. If anyone has any OM617 questions, I'm always happy to help.
The main thing I want people to take from this thread is the OM617 likes to cruise between 2500 and 3000 rpm. I was driving 500 miles every weekend for a year, using different cruising RPM's and precisely calculating mileage to determine this. Granted, you also need to gear the OM617 the same as the 22R (i.e., 5.29's for 35's, etc.). My 4.88's for the 37's just did not cut it. I hear a lot of people say these motors cruise at 3600 RPM, but all I saw there was horrible mileage.
Great build thread. I am starting the om617 swap into my 91. I have the full tdswaps kit so hoping it will be pretty straight forward. As for power, have you considered dieselmekens new line of pumps? its like $1100 plus shipping and you will see 225+hp no problem. I am also planning on intercooling mine very similar to yours. I may have some questions, I have the engine on a stand and plan on dropping it in a couple weeks.
They're finally here! I've finally finished my first set of production quality motor mounts. I apologize that it took longer than I expected, but I won't make excuses for quality, and I wanted these to be right. They are adjustable to over 3" for those who want to leave tranny mount stock and those who want to move it. They fit the OM617 and should fit 1979-1995 Toyota Pickups and 4Runners and possibly more. They use the stock Toyota rubber isolators.
I am now accepting orders for motor mounts. I'm offering them at a low promotional price of $100 + shipping thru December 31st.
Know that these are my 5th iteration, and will position your motor perfectly. I experimented with motor clocking and height and ended with a setup that clears both steering gear and still fits the stock air cleaner under the hood. (Verified on a 1984 with high steer and no body lift. Results may vary depending on your setup.)
I need some opinions here. I'm working on the alternator adapter. My criteria were:
A readily available alternator at parts stores out in the sticks because I've already been down that road
A high output unit (100 amp minimum)
I settled on a CS130, but with a different pattern than my original build.
Where I need help, is what pulley do you guys want to run? Apparently part stores don't carry GM alternators with V pulleys on them anymore. I can supply a spacer to allow use of the stock Mercedes dual pulley. It will fit nicely. You can get your CS130 from somewhere like Summit that still offers a V pulley. Or you can use the Toyota pulley. I'd like some feedback here, as you're the ones using this stuff.
Hey that's a very nice build! I've been thinking of doing the same swap for a while on my truck but decided to sell it. Here is the add if anyone wants it - it has rebuilt engine, SAS, rebuilt axle with 30 spline gun-drilled birfields, 4:88 gears, new tires and, newer tranny, etc http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5442985884.html
I appreciate all the feedback. It was a 100% vote for the Merc pulley. You wont get to use stock belts unfortunately because none of the accessories or brackets are stock.
The things I like about the Merc pulley is you should get one with your motor, so that's $15 less to spend. It will also be nice to have 2 belts since anyone using this bracket will most likely be doing it for the increased amperage, which requires more belt.
To anyone touching any of the OM617 alternator bracket bolts, know that the allen head bolt shown in the picture below can cause interference with the rotating assembly of the engine, preventing it from rotating all the way around and possibly causing catastrophic damage if the motor is run this way.
I found this out after installing new hardware, of which was apparently too long, and thank GOD I went to adjust the valves afterwards and found that it wouldn' turn all the way over.
01-12-2015, 12:55 PM
