aviator

plywood mock up sounds like an excellent plan...

for the bolts I'd make sure you get at least grade 8 hardware and I'd try for some with that gold Chromium Nitride coating for corrosion protection... and use some thread locker as well 262 or 242.

If your grampa was a machinist he should be able to help you out a lot... most def. tap that source of expertise... I'd expect he'd love a chance to go hands on with this project and exercise his brain and skills again...

dmarsh4x4

PowerstrokeJoe, I am also using the R150 trans, here's a picture of my adapter




Mine is made to use the Mercedes starter but could easily modified for the Toyota starter, if any one is intrested I can post the whole process I used on my build thread, in this same fourm. The only tools used to make mine were a jig saw or band saw a drill press and a router.

aviator

awesome looking plate dmarsh

I'm not going to be using an auto tranny when I do mine [eventually] but I'm interested...
so yes pls. post your process. Thank you

pyrojoe22

See that hole in the bottom of the motor, the one for accessing the fly wheel bolts? If you have a manual, wouldn't you want to either cover that up with the adapter plate, or weld a plate over it to prevent contaminants getting on your clutch? I figured I'd just make my adap. plate so that it covers it up.

yodacrawler89

hey any of you guys see one of these motors in action in a yoder ? im dying to see one out on the trail getting beat on a little . i wanna see little yoder rolling coal LOL. any of you guys seen any good vids. ? post links please . i need some more inspiration !

22REFORME

How thick is that aluminum? Also, nice work relocating the starter this was mine plan as well. Nice job.

PowerstrokeJoe

Thanks for all the replies and support guys! Aviator I plan to use nothing but grade 8 and no less!
Dmarsh I am so thankful to you for posting those pictures. I too would love to know the plate thickness. I plan to re use the toyota starter because mine is brand new and the benz one is almost shot. I'm having a hard time finding a plate that is thick enough to make it work.

Pyrojoe- I have a cover that goes over that spot on mine.

This weekend has turned out really crazy. I am still waiting on the parts for the engine so I can go back together with it. I also need to get ahold of my plate for the the adapter. I am thinking about calling 4x4 labs and using their bushing and flywheel as the local machine shop wants almost as much as they do to do the machining work. I'll have to see.

dmarsh4x4

PowerstrokeJoe, My adapter plate is 1/2" thick aluminum, cost me about forty bucks at my local metal supply. I will post on my build thread how I made my adapter and centred every thing up. It will be real easy to modifiy for Toyota starter. I had my plate finished in the better part of a day, using a jig saw, a drill press, a router, and transfer bolts/punch set and of course drills, taps, countersink and a hole saw. By the way what is 4x4 labs getting for pilot bearing / flywheel adapter.

RBX

Awesome work, I've been looking at the VW TDI, but the om617 is cheaper and more plentiful in my parts. Anyone planning an intercooler and or a/c?

dmarsh4x4

RBX, I am planing on using A/C. I will post my A/C compressor mounting on my build thread after I finish posting my adapter plate. (link below). Building a intercooler and all sorts of other mod's after mine is up and running.

PhatFJ

Subscribing: Great build, looking forward to the progress. I just picked up an OM617.952 out of a 1985 300CD, I will be putting this into my 1970 FJ-40 that now has a 5.7L with a SM465. I was wondering where you got your parts for the rebuild? (Peachparts) maybe? It seems that the rebuild parts are VERY spendy!! Are you having to replace any pistons, rings and/or liners? Thanks for the input..

pyrojoe22

$100 for pilot
$100 for flywheel balanced (if you send yours in as a core) otherwise I think it's $200
$400 for adapter plate

I'm gonna wait on my adapter plate till you get yours done, so I have a better idea of where it places the engine. Good thing is the stock motor mounts are aluminum, so they must not need to be too strong....

Here's a thread you will all probably like - http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...=645413&page=3
It goes into some depth on what needs to be moved in order to fit in the yota comfortably. He rotates the thermostat housing, removes the stock a/c compressor, power steering pump, and bracket, and repositions the fuel filter onto the fender. I will probably do the same thing, and use my toyota a/c compressor instead, but would still like to use the mercedes power steering pump. One more thing I'd like to move, if possible, is the oil filter housing, so that I can get to the injection pump to adjust it a lot easier. Anyone know if this is possible?

PowerstrokeJoe

Damrsh- Thank you so much for your help. I sure I can find that plate that cheap here. Your method of building it is nothing short of ingenious.

PhatFJ- My rebuild parts are coming from germanstar.net. They seem to be the cheapest out there and they also have very high quality parts. The only parts I am going to be replacing are the rod bearings as they show minute wear. I miced the crank and it is within spec. The mains are spotless. I'm going to plastigauge the rods before they go back in just for s&g's The compression is good and the liners still show the crosshatches.

Pyrojoe- I'm going hunting for the plate tomorrow and ordering the pilot bearing adapter as well so the plate building shall begin soon. As for the oilfilter. I have seen it done and it doesn't look too hard to move. The biggest hurdle to me would be the turbo oil supply line as that would have to be custom made. It looks like I will be able to pull my inner fender well to get to my pump.

I do plan to use my A/C. How I will remains to be seen but I hope to be able to reuse the stock setup as mine still has the R-12 in it and it will run you out even on the hottest of days. I am going hunting for a plate tomorrow and am going to order everything I need. I hope to get the ball rolling on this soon. I'm ready to see this thing roll some coal lol. It's been a really hectic week here and I had a few unexpected delays but I should be back on track now. Thank you all for the continued interest, support and help!

aviator

To relocate the oil filter you should be able to adapt one of the standard K&N oil filter relocation kits if they don't have one specific to the engine. All you need is one with the same top/thread size. Since the kit is just a spin on plate [more or less] with a pair of hose bibs that attaches to the stock filter location [w/some hose and a filter mount set up] I doubt you'd need to do anything with turbo oil line...
but then I have'nt looked very closely at this engine yet...

just had a thought.. check with an MB European website [the NA ones will probably be all car related] they may have used this engine or a version of it in their smaller trucks or marine applications in which case there would have most likely been a remote filter set up you could probably source the parts that way.
Try getting in touch with an industrial marine repair shop ...I doubt you'd have much luck with a pleasure boat type shop but you never know...

PowerstrokeJoe

I finally got to start tearing into the truck tonight! I am really getting excited about this! I picked up the material to make my adapter plate at the local steel place for $40. I seem to have lost the pic of it. Any how here is the last pic of my truck as a gas burner.

The first thing I did was take the trans out and that is about as far as I got.


I got the flywheel off and am going to pick up the 2 inch aluminum stock tomorrow for the pilot bearing adapter. I have access to a lathe and if anyone needs one of these made let me know as I will have left over stock. I discovered that my clutch is for the most part gone but I had planned to replace it anyhow. The rear main on the 3.0 is gone as well. It leaks oil like a sieve.




Tomorrow I'll grab a pic of the bolt pattens on the flywheel. I plan to try to get it drilled sometime this week. I have a long weekend and I am hoping to get the adapter plate made. The engine is going to get pulled at some point this week. I think that is all I have for now.

aviator

**sniff sniff** poor little gas burner **sniff** it never hurt anyone...

I'd say give it a viking funeral but the parts are worth something to someone...

poppypizza

hey powerstrokejoe, i would be interested in getting one of those spare pilot bearing adapters, what would you like for it? I have my 87 with a R151F in it but a blown head gasket, im thinking that R151 would be great behind a 300D

PowerstrokeJoe

Aviator- I have big plans for the ol' 3.slow. I have to have an engine for an engine theory and overhaul class I am taking to rebuild so it is going to get completely re done. Then I am going to drop it into an 87 Suzuki Samurai I have lol. Should hop it up quite a lot.

Poppypizza I'm thinking 25 plus postage. I am not sure I am going to have enough material to make 2. I will know Saturday though.

Today's update. I took full advantage of my break and got the engine out of the truck while I had a few friends over.










So yeah that part is done. Just from what I can see in the intake, this thing needs rebuilt bad. I knew the rear main was bad but I had no idea it was as bad as it is. Oil just runs out of it. It also was making some really nasty noises about 3k. I'm glad its gone. I am going to have to find me a V belt pulley for the alternator as the 3vz has a rib belt. I really don't want to buy a new alternator as mine is 6 months old. I am going to try to build a bracket to put it under the Merc power steering pump as my A/C compressor is going where the Merc alternator. I am gong Saturday to make the Pilot bearing adapter. Hopefully my parts come in and I can get the bottom end buttoned up and get on with the adapter plate. I'm going to try to get all the accessory drive buttoned up tomorrow.

aviator

See I said someone would have use of the engine... just did'nt think it would be you lol...

Looks like a good chance to do a FULL clean of the engine bay and address any surface rust issues you may find. Maybe even do a protective top coat with POR15 or something...
if you have the option I'd go white to brighten up the spot and show any future leaks better. my $0.02

poppypizza

sounds good to me just let me know, im excited to see this and will be using lots of these ideas come swap time! keep up good work!