jennygirl

Finally, it begins

Donor: 1983 300sd w/ OM617
• $600 paid for car
• 400k miles
• motor runs like brand new and idles perfectly (single owner and serviced regularly)
• virtually nonexistent blow-by, amazing condition
• already started tearing into it



My 87 4Runner
• cheaper and more fun to swap vs rebuild 22RE (has head issues and misc gremlins)
• already has motor pulled & it's begging for DIESEL


Thanks to all of the amazing builds here, we hope to be making some serious headway in the next week. More updates to come, should have this motor out of the benz today.

Phase 1 plans so far (to get it running)
• using 4x4labs adapter plate & flywheel (uses toyota starter)
• custom bracket to fit 617 to toyota motor mounts
• custom notched oil pan for steering linkage
• no body lift
• no hood scoop
• no ac (probably going to use the ac compressor as an air compressor instead)
• MB radiator w/ pusher fans
• oil cooler mount behind front bumper
• "massaging" firewall to scoot the engine back for valve cover clearance
• transmission ~4" setback w/ driveshaft modification
• clutch line rerouting
• MB throttle linkage
• alternator bracket
• P/S bracket w/ custom lines (using toyota P/S? not sure yet)
• all of the other things I am forgetting

millball

Subscribed!

rworegon

'scribed!

jennygirl

Hey thanks, subscribers!

Gut it!


Chop chop!


Hello nurse!


Clean it!


Tomorrow:
• separate 617 from MB trans
• disconnect w56 and connect to 617 w/ 4x4labs adapter plate
• test fit??

jennygirl

More pic updates

Got the om617 to the carwash across the street for some pressure washing


After some detailing


4x4labs adapter mounted w/ supplied modified flywheel


Drive shafts and W56 are out of the runner. Just need to get a pilot bearing before mating the om617 and toyota transmission together


Tomorrow I am on the hunt for some new motor mounts, pilot bearing, oil pan gasket, and some stock metal. Hope to be mounting this thing shortly.

paynemw

yea dude nice work!

jennygirl

Big update for y'all tonight

Last night, motor and transmission installed together


I decided to cut my radiator support and make it removable


Did a test fit of motor+trans, but forgot to take a photo of it in before taking it back out to rest on the ground. There was very little front/back clearance, but enough. The issue would have been hood clearance. Massaging of the firewall came soon after getting the motor+trans back out, then back in again it went. With the soft hammering and removing the parking brake (it was contacting the oil filter on the om617), there was about 2" more clearance- plenty of room for a radiator. I think I still wanna massage it a bit more.


Yesterday, I went to the metal store and picked up $20 worth of scrap: some plates of 3/16" steel and a section of 14ga sheet. The plate steel is for motor mounts and the downpipe flange, and the 14ga sheet is for notching the oil pan.

Earlier today, I picked up six 90deg tight radius mandrel elbows, four mandrel U bends, a v-clamp, and 8ft of straight tube. All of it is 3". I am starting with the downpipe and working my way back, making a full downpipe back exhaust. Pretty happy that parts cost was only $150.

Do you think it matters if the downpipe is a little over 2.75" (inner diameter) and the wastegate output is 2.5"? Couldn't find anything conclusive online.

Some pics of the downpipe progress



Tonight I also started thinking about how to adapt the steering linkage. The MB parts on top of the valve cover are ugly (that huge plastic thing for the automatic). I'd like to use the original throttle cable, so I snatched the round looking cable pull thing from my 22re TB. Lo and behold, it shares the same bolt diameter with some of the MB parts.

I think I will do something like this (below pic). Except, I will attach everything on a plate/bracket that is mounted with the 2 10mm's on that side of the valve cover. That bracket will also have the slotted metal to hold the throttle cable housing in place. I dunno yet it I will need a spring there or not. The injection pump does not have that strong of a spring action on its own.


I pulled it off of the back of the 300sd. It was kind of a joke to myself at first, but then it ended up looking a little interesting.




Trying to mount this thing tomorrow!!

rworegon

Looking good Jenny.

What's going to be the DEQ/smog process on that swap? I hope it's not too painful.

jennygirl

Thanks! I guess it's pretty easy to get the exemption from smog. Just have to fill out some paperwork and check mark "diesel", then they do an inspection to verify and sign off on it. Then no more smogging

We didn't get the motor mounted today, but got it seated in place & ready to tack the mounts. Unfortunately my welder kinda sucks for such thick metal. It's a Millermatic 140 autoset. They rate it for 3/16", but obviously it's a load of crap!

I'll post some pictures soon, doing the nightly shop clean

jennygirl

Alright here are the photos from today. I also started making a bracket for throttle linkage, I'll take a pic tomorrow when it is actually installed.

Anyway on with the pics

Another test fit, this one was really close


Final placement


Hood clearance is good!


Valve cover clearance is good!

jennygirl

Still haven't finished welding the motor mounts, but I have them tacked and the supports cut. Right now they are held together by a few sticks of steel rod, waiting to be finished. Hope to be able to go over to my friend's place for his 220 welder tomorrow

I got the oil pan done tonight, and decided to increase the capacity by extending the pan 2" downward. I think it may actually be a little bit more capacity than original even with the notch taken out.




Posting a pic of myself so you know I'm not some creepy dude pretending to be a girl!


That reminds me... The other day I was eating at a restaurant outside of harbor freight, and this smiley older guy asked me, "Hey nice jeans! Did you make them?" I was like huh?? Then realized that most areas were covered in splotches of motor oil, and overall about 2 shades of a darker gray. I assured him it was intentional and took credit!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you are making quick work of getting it swapped over. Great job!!!

RBX

do you have plans for an intercooler? Nice build dudette.

jennygirl

Thanks guys!!!

No plans for an intercooler yet. I don't think I'll want to run this thing much above stock, just want a reliable engine with a little bit more power. Stock om617 should do the trick!

Welding motor mounts at 3pm today. Unfortunately it is kinda bad timing with the holidays, looks like the drive shafts and hoses will have to wait until next week. Maybe I can have it at least running by then

rworegon

Hope the motor mount welding went well! You're making great progress. Can't wait to hear it go vroom!

OopsMyBad

Looks pretty tight against the firewall there, that would have given me fits! Are you still going to be able to mount the stock heater valve to have hot/cool functionality?

As for your question about the turbo outlet suddenly opening up an extra 1/4" or so, the short answer is that it's a non issue. If it makes you feel better, you could weld a couple passes on that from the inside as well as outside and take a burr to it to make the transfer a bit more gentle, but there's no real reason to. Turbos are happiest with as little backpressure as they can get, i wouldn't worry about it. If anything I'd grab a 15g with a t3 flange (some Mercedes diesels used a regular Garrett t3 flange, not sure if they all did?) because it's only slightly bigger on the hot side and still spools up real nice, and that way if you decide you want a little more poop down the road you can just turn up the mbc a little.

jennygirl

Well my friend fell through with the welder, but then I got a tip from one of my roommates that flux core might penetrate better. Sure enough it was a world of difference, and I just got done welding the motor mounts at home Still need to use my friends welder to modify the oil pickup.

oopsmybad- I have the MB flange and already kinda trimmed it to accept the 3" pipe (it fits well around the thicker part of where the flange sticks out), but my buddy was telling me it isn't a good idea to weld to because the flange is cast iron? I already made my own flange / plate out of steel and it fits perfectly- so I think I'm gonna just use that anyway. As for the heater, yes it appears like it's going to fit! There is at least a half inch clearance around the hose connections. and the valve cover.

I am debating whether I wanna keep working on this tonight or lift the motor back in and mount the transmission. There is a huge fire under my butt to get this thing running asap because I have another huge project I am putting on hold until this thing is drivable.

I think I'm just gonna use the stock MB alternator for now and swap it with one from a Saab 900 (direct bolt on and almost double the output).

OopsMyBad

You can't weld mild steel to cast iron without spendy stick welding rod, or you can heat it up to about 500°F and then use a TIG machine on it. Do you not have a bolt on flange for the exhaust part of the turbine housing?

jennygirl

I made my own connection out of steel as part of the downpipe, and then I have a V clamp to go from downpipe to exhaust. You can see the plate earlier up in the thread

It's gonna be a tight fit with that 3" exhaust! I might have to exchange my tubing down to 2.5" but we will see. I hope to keep it 3"

Here is a pic of the motor mounts. Welds are not perfect but acceptable enough. I did a second pass on a few areas.




Motor is mounted!!!

jennygirl

Happy Thanksgiving guys!