suppra87

Another issue I ran into was that the oil filter came into contact with the steering shaft. To make things easier I decided to relocate my oil filter. There's some excellent information regarding oil filter relocation on 7m and 1/2jz motors in this thread on supramania. I went for -8AN Pushlock lines and mounting the filter on the driver side of the engine bay.

http://www.supramania.com/forums/sho...-Remote-Filter

Ordered an Optima Redtop, a 3000cfm pusher fan, silla aluminum radiator for the 3.0 V6, some universal radiator hose (to make some very ugly radiator hose routing haha) and a fan relay kit with thread in thermostat for the radiator fan.




My wiring disaster sitting on the engine...


Plumbed in my heater hoses and stock heater valve.







Also went to my local Battery Warehouse to have some battery wires made. I decided on 1GA from my battery to the starter, 1GA from battery to engine ground and 1GA from battery to body ground. Figured it was a bit overkill but it couldn't hurt. Also extended my alternator harness from the driver to passenger side using 1GA off the alternator positive. I will post the diagram of how to splice the 1jz alternator plug to the 4runner plug when I get home from vacation. And lastly I used 8GA wire to extend the main fusebox power to the driverside where my battery now resides.

suppra87

One of the last things I wanted to do before I test fired the motor was to replace the lower oil pan that was crushed quite badly during shipping. Ordered a lower oil pan from a 2002 Lexus GS300 since that is one of the few USDM motors that share the front sump 1jz/2jz lower oil pan as the 1jz does. After comparing the new sump with the old one, it was very clear how badly crushed the pan really was! Also it looks like ill have to grind off the mount for the steering stabilizer on my drag link in order to clear the oil pan.





Oh and most importantly....it started and after some tweaking...it idles very nicely! The video is of the first time I turned the key on the swap, the started didn't stop spinning thanks to a crossed wire. Fixed that and its all downhill from here More progress VERY SOON to come!! Including ALL wiring info since that seems to be the hardest thing to find these days.

Below is a video, you have to click on it...

Loz 23

Great to see a different engine going in. Will let a mate know who is pondering the 3.0 swap at the moment as he is a supra fan.

VANCE164

iTrader: (1)

Very nice man! hope to see more updates and I hope thos hubs help ya out should be there tomorrow!

8784 runner

I was under the impression that a whole donor vehicle was needed to do these swaps,It looks like thats not the case. As long as the motor is complete with all accs, harness and ecu it should be good to go? I have a 83 been waiting to find a good deal on a 1jz-gte vvti to put in.

4runner4ever

Looks a lot like mine. Even the same colour 4R

Why did you opt for the 1JZ and not the 2JZ? Same amount of work but more torque.

suppra87

8784Runner, I full donor vehicle may have made the swap easier but it also would have been much more expensive. I just made sure to buy an engine what come with a complete uncut wiring harness, Engine ECU, map sensor, ignitor and most of the engine accessories.

4Runner4ever, Your even running the same tires as I am, Ive got 33x12.5 Geolander MT's. They have proven to be an amazing tire! Anyway, I decided to go 1JZ rather than 2JZ because I am very firmiliar with the 1JZ, I like that its MAP sensor based rather than AFM based and most importantly, its much less expensive.

Ive been meaning to update this thread with all the wiring specifics and finial assemblies but I have been very busy. The swap is completely done now and Ive put almost 5000 miles on the 1jz since its been running. About 450 of those miles included towing and going offroading with a 3500lb camper. This engine have been phenomenal in every aspect expect for low end torque! Imagine that, right!?

locomah

I'm so glad to see someone doing this so recently! I'm doing a 2jz gte vvti in an '89 2wd v6 (basically the same beast) and I was wondering what your opinion on the oil pan was. My understanding is that I'll need a rear sump pan. I saw you used the front sump, but in doing so you lost the steering damper? Also; what kind of clearance issues did you encounter without the body lift? My truck is actually on lowering blocks and spindles, wondering what I should expect in terms of clearance. Those wiring diagrams would be immensely appreciated as well!

suppra87

Locomah, I'm really not sure what oil pan would be best to use in a 2WD. I would imagine a rear sump would be easier, especially since it would very easily clear your steering components. I had to use a front sump in order to clear my front differential but doing so put the lower oil pan in the way of the steering dampener. Honestly though, I've driven about 5000 miles mostly on road but have done some damn good offroading with out a steering dampener and I like the responsiveness you get without it.

Funny thing about the body lift, I needed to left the body 2" so that I would raise the motor to he correct height for the oil pan to clear the steering components. I then had to lift the transfer case mount 1.5" from the cross member to keep my driveshaft angles safe and to level out the motor.

Ill do my best to get my wiring posted up here soon but i'm not sure how much its going to help you. While the 89 2WD 3.0 wiring will be mostly the same, the 2JZ VVTi wiring is much much different than the 1JZ wiring. Of course general principles will be the same, power, grounds, gauges, ect... Either way, ill try to help out the best I can.

locomah

Suppra87; Thanks so much for the info! thats all about par with what I expected as far as the oil pan, brought my front sump to the junk yard a few times for fitment.

I've got the stock ECU - engine set up, so I should be able to run the engine, vvti and all flawlessly. It's things like factory AC and other body related things im worried about. But I'm a wiring noob, so I'll just have to learn.

Love the truck, by the way.

suppra87

Ive got some pictures of the exhaust I made, about 4 months ago haha. I really need to finish uploading all my pictures soon.









And my awesome 33x12.5 Yoko MT+

8784 runner

This is my stock filter setup with the two coolant line for the oil. When you relocated your filter I m curious on what you did with your coolant lines. The thread you linked to on supramania mentiond putting in a separate relay that I don't really like the idea of. You've already put some miles on your motor so what you did must work pretty good. Im assuming the non vvti and the vvti still shared the basic seup for oil cooling that is......Link to my build thus far
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161...runner-266328/

suppra87

I believe the non VVT-i and VVT-i 1JZ's do share a very similar oil cooler setup. I just connected the 2 coolant lines with a straight brass connector from hope depot.

8784 runner

Alright man, I need your help. Im throwing in the towel on building my mounts from scratch just to get this motor mounted so I can progress a bit quicker with it. From your thread im getting that the mounts you use will bolt my motor right into my frame. I went on to xcesssives website but did not see your mounts on their for the MKII. Could you take a look and copy the link to the mounts you used in a reply would be GREATLY appreciated.......Also I notice in your pics you took your AC comp off. I tried the same and read in a supra forum that a cerp belt off a 2000 audi 2.8 would work but it was far from it. From the pics your pulley setup seems to be identical to mine. What belt did you use?

suppra87

I also read about using a belt from a 2.8 or 2.7 A4/S4 but didn't have any luck with that as the belt was too long. I'm using a 6PK1880 belt size. The 1880 is the length and while it has been working for my for 7k+ miles, I do notice that my auto tensioner is almost maxed out. I'm going to use a slightly smaller belt when I need to change it. Probably go with a 6PK1850 next time around.

As for the mounts. I really need to update the information in my thread, the mounts I bought from xcessive turned out to sit too low and while I have them bolted up and they have been working for as long as the engine has been in my truck, they put a lot of strain the the factory motor mounts. I bought a pair of the trailgear bombproof mounts and I'm in the process of cutting the mounts apart and lower the pivot area to line up with the xcessive brackets.

I notice you said your in Anne Arundel... I live in Annapolis. Shoot me a PM when you can, maybe we can work out a time and I can bring my truck by, help you out with a few things.

8784 runner

Awesome info with the belt. Ill stop at Advance today with the belt number. I already have trailgears mounts bolted on my frame. I found 1jz mounts for the mk2 on Driftmotion ill order those this afternoon. My orginal hopes was to build my mounts and crossmember with the body still off but that will turn into more time then its worth. If I can just order mounts to get me close I can always pull'em out and modify to what I need once everything is place.

suppra87

Hello everyone! I am digging this back up from the grave to give some updates on this awesome truck.


Engine is still running great! Wooden transmission mount spacer is still in place and desperately needs to be replaced with a piece of metal 2x4 that I have. I replaced the radiator when mounts slipped, see previous statement. Replaced the battery. I had to wire a momentary switch for the starter becasue something failed on the ignition switch. A capacitor popped on the ecu which caused the truck to run pig rich. This is a common problem with 1jz ECUs so I just soldiered in a new cap, good to go. Sold the truck to a friend. He blew out the rear diff, replaced it then blew out another rear diff. I gave him a spare I had laying around (4.30) so now it has 4.30 Rear and 4.56 Front. Obviously needs to be fixed. Oh and most importantly...the right rear upper control arm for the rear axle is no longer attached to the frame. The bracket/gusset that was PART OF THE FRAME rusted off. I like to call it a super custom 3-Link suspension.



So here we are today, I bought the truck back from my friend becasue I wanted to swap all the goodies into one of my other 4Runners. Slowly loosing interest in doing that swap again though. The truck still starts right up and *drives*. Obviously wonders a bit and safety is a concern.

Anyway. It is now for sale completely as is. I will make a real sale thread shortly.

Truck is Sold! Thanks!

rainman88

How awesome! Would love to do this to my 88 runner.

stokes

what cross member did you use. 4cyl with a w or g series trans?

suppra87

4 Cylinder with a W series. I got the cross member, front and rear driveshafts from the same 93 Pickup with a W56-E.