1UZFE swap 92 X-tra cab R151 5spd - YotaTech Forums


Go Back   > >


All Other Toyota Swaps I4, I6, Lexus V8

1UZFE swap 92 X-tra cab R151 5spd

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-24-2009, 10:20 PM   #1
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Surrey,BC
Posts: 77
1UZFE swap 92 X-tra cab R151 5spd

This is a completed swap, it's been on the road for almost 3 months without any problems.

I spent over a year researching every thread I could find. There was lots of good info, but there was a few things that were missing.

A) Most swaps were in Aus/NZ so they were right hand drive and often solid axle.
B)Used a conversion bellhousing, which is a great way to go, but is horribly expensive to purchase and ship to Canada/USA.
C) I didn't use the stock ECM/wiring. I run Megasquirt II/ EDIS 8 ignition.

The swap was done in two stages.

Winter'08

This is what I stared with, out of a 92 SC400.


Installed new valve seals and resealed the entire engine.



Leak down test passed with ease.



I Heli-coiled the block so the starter bolts could be installed on the starter side. Will save alot of work if the starter ever needs replacing.



With the engine completed I started the mods. 1st was mounting the DIS coils in place of the stock IAC motor. The IAC was missing, and since I'm using a manual trans, it's not really needed.



For the Ford EDIS ignition I needed a 36-1 crank trigger. The stock crank trigger is 12 teeth so I purchased a trigger wheel for a 98+ 1UZFE (picture) It's a 36-2 wheel (36 teeth with 2 missing) I had a friend TIG weld up the 2 missing teeth and then removed 1 tooth near the 10o'clock position so the ignition would be in proper time. Sorry no pic of the completed trigger wheel.
The stock Lexus crank sensor works fine with the ford module.



I had Aurora Ignition make me up a hybrid set of ignition cables. Was cheaper then buying the stock replacements.



Engine ready for a test run. Note the deleted cam sensors, not needed to run MSquirt.

Last edited by motoriderbc; 05-24-2009 at 10:22 PM.
motoriderbc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2009, 10:57 PM   #2
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Surrey,BC
Posts: 77
I then decided to build a simple test stand to test run the engine. Also to check the operation of the Msquirt ECM and the Ford EDIS.





Engine ran well once a basic tune was programmed. Mechanically the engine sounded great with good oil pressure.

Unfortunatley I don't have pics of making the adapter plate. It's made from 3/8" steel. I made card board templates to get the alignment right. I used a cutting torch to cut the basic shape and then a ginder to clean up the edges. I bought some end mills for my drill press to counter sink the mounting holes as needed. The plate works well and lines up nicely but was alot of work to complete. I think if I did it again I'd just buy the converision bellhousing



Adapter is visible in black. Note cutout in R151 bellhousing for starter gear clearance. Bellhousing was milled 3/8" to compensate for adapter. Should have been 5/8" to get perfect input shaft engagement, due to flywheel differences.



Modified 91 MR2 Turbo flywheel with 3.0l clutch. Flywheel crank holes were filled and the redrilled by a machinist. I then chamfered the gear teeth since the starter engages on the engine side.

Engine/trans assembly was now ready to be swapped. Will try to post part II tomorrow.
motoriderbc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 12:37 AM   #3
Registered User
 
ROCK HOUND's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, Pa
Posts: 130
X 198,345,321,987,345,392 times
ROCK HOUND is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 04:53 AM   #4
Registered User
 
Hophead's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: North Vancouver BC
Posts: 98
Very nice! I am excited to see this done. Local too!
Hophead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 09:57 PM   #5
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Surrey,BC
Posts: 77
Part II No turning back..

In Jan '09 after prepping everything I could think of, I decided to pull the trigger and start the actual swap. It took approx 7 weeks to complete, chipping away at it whenever I could.



Original, but good running 3.0l. Instead of selling the 3.0l, I bought a 89 Xtra cab 4x4 with a blown engine. I installed the good 3.0l in the 89 and then used it as a driver while my swap was in progress. After the swap was complete I sold the 89 and the profit pretty much paid for 50% of the swap cost.

There is much confusion over what style oil sump you should use for this swap. I know I spent hours looking at threads and pictures trying to figure out which was best. My engine has a rear sump (SC400), the other available in NA is the front sump (LS400)

The opinion in OZ/NZ seems to be that the front sump is the only way to go. The goal of course is to get the engine as low as possible. With a front sump the steering relay rod is the limiting factor.
With the rear sump the IFS differential is the limit. In stock form a 4-5" body lift would be needed (not reasonable)

This why everyone likes the front sump, it will fit with a 3" BL.
If you have a rear sump you have 3 choices:
a) 4" bracket lift, 1UZFE should fit with no Body Lift
b) Major oil pan/sump fabrication
c) Lower the IFS diff 2" using a new crossmember/diff drop. Only a 2" body lift is needed now.

I choose option c). Mainly because a) I couldn't locate a reasonable priced front sump set up b) I wanted the BL to be as small as possible c) I really dislike bracket lifts and would never use one.



So I made up this crossmember, it lowers the diff 2". With some solid 2" spacers on the rear mounts and some clearancing on the flanges everything fits nicely.



So far its worked great. The only downside is a 1.5" loss in ground clearance, but hasn't been an issue yet. We'll see if how I feel after a summer of wheel'n.



Test fit, seems to be ok! Transmission was moved back 2.5" to gain clearance for a cooling fan.




Engine mounts made up. The engine and frame mount points almost line up perfect, so mounts were easy to fab. I reused the original 3.0l rubber mounts.
The transmission mount needed a 2" spacer and offset 2.5" ( sorry, no pic)



Sump clearance.

Engine is now installed!

Last edited by motoriderbc; 05-25-2009 at 09:59 PM.
motoriderbc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 10:13 PM   #6
RMA
Contributing Member
 
RMA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Jose ,Ca
Posts: 2,505
Holy smokes , subscribed . Great Job!!! THanks For the pics .
RMA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 10:18 PM   #7
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Surrey,BC
Posts: 77
Exhaust:



I used the SC400 manifolds, but heavily modified to fit around the upper A-arm mounts. I used mandrel bends and small 3 bolt flanges. The right side is very tight around the slave cylinder.




I installed a Wide band O2 in the Y pipe. The rest of the system is single 3" with a large Magnaflow muffler. Idle and cruise are fairly quiet, but it sounds fantastic under load.
motoriderbc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2009, 11:20 PM   #8
Registered User
 
86tuning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 738
Nice work.

An alternative method for the flywheel ring gear is to remove it and put a new one on. Remove it with a grinder (cut it) and then heat the new one up on a BBQ and slip it in place.

Good idea with the starter bolts.
86tuning is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2009, 06:03 AM   #9
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Surrey,BC
Posts: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86tuning View Post

An alternative method for the flywheel ring gear is to remove it and put a new one on. Remove it with a grinder (cut it) and then heat the new one up on a BBQ and slip it in place.
I actually was going to do that, but when I compared to the original flexplate the chamfer was on the wrong edge of the tooth when the ring gear was turned around . ie wasn't on the "drive" side. To be safe I copied the original flexplate position.
motoriderbc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2009, 10:26 PM   #10
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Surrey,BC
Posts: 77
Continued..



To make the throttle cable work without some wierd angles I cut the quadrant off at it's original 6 o'clock position and rewelded it at the 12 o'clock position. A couple modified fender washers tacked on the bracket positioned the cable in the right position.




Clutch hose bracket



Used a 3 core alloy radiator with a 16" slim puller fan. Core support was modified heavily to fit the large radiator.




Back on the road!
motoriderbc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2009, 01:49 AM   #11
Registered User
 
Just Learning's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Greeley Colorado
Posts: 746
have one on me , all i can say is wow that is awesome
Just Learning is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2009, 06:01 AM   #12
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Surrey,BC
Posts: 77
Thank you !
motoriderbc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2009, 10:07 PM   #13
Registered User
 
toylocost's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Yotatech, because Pirate is too expensive. NorCal.
Posts: 1,705
How did I miss this??? Holy crap this is friken badass! I can't wait to do mine.
toylocost is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2009, 07:57 PM   #14
Registered User
 
aferg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 111
Very Nice Job!

A.
aferg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2009, 10:14 PM   #15
Contributing Member
 
stormin94's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
Posts: 4,222
Awesome!!! That is an impressive build. Thanks for sharing.
stormin94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-03-2009, 10:41 PM   #16
Registered User
 
shancerlelby's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: quesnel b.c Canada
Posts: 319
that thing is awesome!
shancerlelby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2010, 10:20 AM   #17
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Surrey, BC
Posts: 350
How much work do you think it would have been to have used the stock ECU and harness? In my off road rig I want to keep it as stock as possible if I was to do this swap (no Standalone). Do you by chance will have that Bell housing adapter template?

Also did you retain the use of your A/C?

Last edited by Wheelingnoob; 03-05-2010 at 10:23 AM.
Wheelingnoob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2010, 08:36 PM   #18
Registered User
 
mrddk92's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Mt Vernon,WA
Posts: 235
Wow. Good job and thanks for the info and pics. I can't wait to have one in my engine bay lol.
mrddk92 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2010, 10:29 PM   #19
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Surrey,BC
Posts: 77
Thanks for all the comments, it's been a year since the swap was finished and I still love it!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wheelingnoob View Post
How much work do you think it would have been to have used the stock ECU and harness? In my off road rig I want to keep it as stock as possible if I was to do this swap (no Standalone). Do you by chance will have that Bell housing adapter template?

Also did you retain the use of your A/C?

Using the stock ECM wouldn't be any more work as long as you have the Lexus harness to start with.

I'd have to check on the template to see if it's around still. I've moved since the swap, it might have been lost.

I did not retain my A/C. I'm sure it's possible to do, but it would take alot of engineering. Besides the engine sounds so good you want to drive with the window open all the time
motoriderbc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2010, 05:12 AM   #20
Registered User
 
24Runna's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL
Posts: 957
Wow!! That is awesome! How is the power?
24Runna is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1981 pickup 4x4 build young buck Pre 84 Trucks (Build-Up Section) 15 08-07-2016 09:00 AM
1uzfe swap NEED HELP!!!! RaginAsian91 Engine Swaps 1 11-21-2015 11:52 AM
91 4runner tobylab Diesel Swaps 0 07-17-2015 06:51 PM
WTB[MidAtl]: WTB: 89-95 radio brackets/standard cab carpet 2wd mtb_taco Items Wanted 0 07-15-2015 08:36 AM
back of cab body plugs (1991 sr5) elwood73 86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 0 07-05-2015 07:07 AM


Tags
1uzfe, 362, adapter, bellhousing, block, conversion, convertion, crank, edis, front, ignition, r151, rear, sump, trigger, wheel

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:41 AM.


2010 InternetBrands, Inc.