live4soccer7

What kind of mpgs are those of you seeing with 1UZFE swaps? It isn't my deciding factor to doing to the swap, I'm pretty certain this will be the swap that I will do, however I am more curious than anything. The swap seems to be superior to most other options out there if you are doing custom mounts, wiring etc.. anyways.

If you can, post up the following:

MPG's
Year/Model Truck/4runner
Tire Size
Gear Set
Tranny

Look forward to hearing some info.

toyminator2000

Mine is used off road only so I have never checked mine but from what I read it gets about the same as a 4cyl 4x4 toyota, about 19mpg.

live4soccer7

I looked at some of the mpg numbers from the car it is in and the weight of the car as well and it seems it would get around that. Granted the truck will be a little heavier and have worse aerodynamics. I'm really curious more than anything, mpg has very little to do with the swap that I choose. However, I will not choose a swap that gets 10mpg. As said in the original post, I have read quite a bit on many different swaps and this one in particular. Love the 1UZFE swap, seems like a GREAT motor and best all around swap between power, efficiency, and weight.

NorthIdahoyota

I'm not 100% sure on mine cause my speedometer/odo still dont work, but based on a few longer trips I can tell it is at least as good as the v6 it replaced. I got somewhere around 16-18 highway, but that was driving like a madman all the time and the motor was still in limp mode because the swap was new. Mine is in a 92 pickup with 31s, 4.30 gears and a R150f. Some taller gearing would help, v8s dont like turning 3k on the highway.

live4soccer7

Thanks for the info. I wanted a swap that would get close to 20. It isn't a justification to do that swap, but since putting in the effort for a swap anyways I figure that it should at least be sufficient in power and be an efficient option as well. The 1uzfe seems like the perfect swap for our trucks.

I'm located over by spokane, I have some relatives over in/from bonners.

NorthIdahoyota

Yep, this engine seems best to me. Its really too bad toyota didnt offer it as a stock option, would have been way better than the 3vze

live4soccer7

Yep, I've ready they are pretty much bullet proof as well. With the options to SC, also makes it appealing if more power is needed/wanted down the road. I'm running 37's and sick of only be able to go 60mph on the flats. How long did it take you to get up and running from the time you got the motor? I've got 5.29's now (pretty new actually). Thinking that 4.88 may have been better with the 1UZFE and R151F.

2big4arunner

I love the 1uz-fe motor but I would suggest something a little bit easier and made for low end torque.

The 1gr-fe from the Tacoma and newer 4runner. The 2003 4runner like mine still has the a340 4speed auto which means accessible transmission for the swap as well.

Its a great motor and driving on the highway I get over 23mpg with goodyear duratracs in the winter with the awd (unlocked 4wd) engaged.

If you want a second motor to think about that is gonna get great mileage in a 4runner then I think the 1gr-fe is the motor for you. Not expensive either since lots of rich people drive them into the ditch in the winter lol

Coppied from Wikipedia
1GR-FE


The 1GR-FE is the 4.0 L (3956 cc) version, designed for longitudinal mounting in RWD and 4WD pickup applications. It has a 94 mm bore and a stroke of 95 mm. Output is 236 hp (176 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb·ft (361 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp (178 kW) at 5200 rpm with 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) at 3700 rpm on 91 octane. This engine features Toyota's VVT-i, variable valve timing system on the intake cam and a compression ratio of 10.0:1. An updated version of this engine features Dual VVT-i, increasing output to 254 hp (189 kW) and 270 lb·ft (366 N·m) on 87 octane and 285 hp (213 kW) and 289 lb·ft (392 N·m) on 91 octane. Inside, the 1GR uses a "taper-squish" combustion chamber design with matching pistons to improve anti-knocking and engine performance, while also improving intake and fuel efficiency. Toyota adopted a siamese-type intake port, which reduces the surface area of the port walls and prevents fuel from adhering to such walls. This engine has special cast-iron cylinder liners cast into the block, which are a spiny type to improve adhesion between the liner and cylinder block. With these special thin liners it is impossible to bore the block. In the event of cylinder wall damage (scoring, deep protrusions, etc.), the entire cylinder block must be replaced. For increased block rigidity, the 1GR also receives a high temperature plastic insulator/protector, which fills the empty space between the outer portion of the cylinders and block material common to open deck engines. For increased cooling efficiency, the 1GR employs water passages between the bores of the engine. There are two such passages for each bank for a total of four. This reduces cylinder hot-spotting and keeps combustion chamber temperatures more uniform.
A bolt-on TRD supercharger kit is available on the Tacoma and FJ Cruiser.
Applications (with VVT-i) in model years:
2003-2009 Toyota 4Runner
2007-2011 Toyota Land Cruiser (GRJ200)
2003-2009 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (GRJ120/121/125)
2005–present Toyota Tacoma (GRN225/245/250/265/270)
2005-2006 Toyota Tundra (GSK30)
2007-2009 Toyota Tundra (GSK50/51)
2007-2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser (GSJ10/15)

Applications (with Dual VVT-i) in model years:
2010–present Toyota 4Runner (GRN280)
2010–present Toyota FJ Cruiser
2012–present Toyota Land Cruiser
2009–present Toyota Land Cruiser Prado (GRJ150/155)
2010–present Toyota Tundra (GSK50/51)
2012–present Lexus GX 400 (URJ150)

live4soccer7

What tires/gears are you running? Also, I would assume it is an aluminum block? How about the weight of the engine with accessories on it? I would assume OBDII, so it is probably fairly picky with sensors etc...

NorthIdahoyota

I like that motor too, have you actually swapped one in? I think that would be a hard job. Somebody did it on this forum though, I never checked back on that thread to see how it ended up. My swap took a month to get running, but that included tearing down the motor and resealing everything. I am still working out the bugs though

live4soccer7

I would agree, it seems like a more difficult swap. I will look more into it.

2big4arunner

The engine weighs 366lbs with oil and coolant according to the PDF I have linked. Its all aluminum and from what I have seen most every sensor is on the engine and easy to keep in the conversion. The air filter is on the engine and it uses a MAP sensor instead of a MAF sensor. Oil filter is up top and out of the way of steering components. 4 o2 sensors in total (2 wideband pre cat, 2 narrow band post cat) and you are probably gonna want to get the transmission since its electronic and will make it easier to do the swap. its still an A340f so it might be able to be adapted to the manual transfer case. If you cant then the new torsion lockable transfer case and electronic controls will be easy to adapt. The new tranfer case gives you an AWD mode but takes time to engage 4hi. 4low is easy to engage if needed. They also make a more economical A750 5 speed auto transmission with a slightly different transfer case.

As far as I can tell my gearing is 3.9 final drive ratio. I run 245/75r16 tires but didn't notice a difference on the 265/70r16 that I had on there before. The 245/75r16's are 30.5"x9.6"x16.

In the end you get the majority of your torque at 1500 RPM and its a truck motor VS a great car motor. Either way you win but these motors are designed for a truck.

I will have to see who did the 1gr swap already. I didn't see many that have done it.

live4soccer7

That seems pretty darn light. The 22r is roughly that weight and I believe the 1 UZ is about 390-400.

Do you know of any bell housings that would work with the R151-series manual transmissions?

2big4arunner

Forgot the spec sheet that I said I would include.

1grfeeng.pdf

I dont know of any that would work with the 5 speed BUT the 1gr-fe does have an a340f transmission so it should be easy to get a bellhousing to make an adaptor plate if needed. The 5 speed auto is WICKED and devious and very very economical with TONNES of low end torque. You would have to change out the electronic throttle with a cable as well (which has been done before)

You can also loose the Cats by using these guys
http://urdusa.com/p1260518515/URD-Re...duct_info.html

And open up the flow with these or similar

http://urdusa.com/Exhaust-&-Headers-...duct_info.html

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/TACOMA-FJ-CRU...ht_3004wt_1397

I dont see why this is a hard swap in truth. I might be missing things but it should be pretty basic

NorthIdahoyota

I read somewhere that it is super tall and hard to fit, maybe not impossibly so though

live4soccer7

Just curious how it is getting 23mpgs.

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymod..._4Runner.shtml


Here is a thread that talks about mileages as well. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-ge...e-average.html


I guess I'm just a little skeptical with the efficiency. I'm still thinking the 1UZ would be a better choice. When wheeling and have many gear ranges with duals it is a lot easier to get in the necessary power range at the correct times with the "car" engine (not over other engines, but simply gearing would allow so many options). I would love to see a swap getting 20mpg's out of a good swap like the 1GR-FE or the 1UZ-FE, but I just don't think that's going to happen. I don't think I want to swap anything with less power than the 1UZFE. I'm not trying to build a race car, but am looking for something that has plenty of power to get up a go on the freeways at 75. The 'ol 22r hybrid just doesn't cut it.

I think with the ease of the earlier 1UZFE's (non OBDII) makes them a better option than the 1GR-FE. They are both light weight motors. The other draw back to the 1GR-FE, is you can't rebuild the block. They both are fairly efficient and I would imagine will get similar mileage in an older toyota truck application. 15-20 roughly. Adapting a manual transmission with the famous yota dual cases is a must as well.

They both have similar power output as far as HP goes (~230 1GR-FE and ~250 1UZFE).

NorthIdahoyota

my grandpas pickup has that engine and he only gets 18 max on the highway, but the newer tacomas are alot bigger than our trucks

live4soccer7

But then you throw on the added resistance of a set of duals, larger tires, and a lifted rig (aerodynamics) and you can't be far off. Not to mention steel bumpers and accessories.

NorthIdahoyota

What are duals?

live4soccer7

dual transfer cases. Just adds more resistance along the power train. Nothing major, but still another aspect to eat away at the vehicle's efficiency. Still thinking the 1UZ is better. I've done quite a bit of research on it. What adapter and slave cylinder did you use for your R151F? Any pics of the cross member you made up and the motor mounts?