1UZ-FE into 94 4Runner
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
1UZ-FE into 94 4Runner
ok so i have a 94 Toyota 4 runner sr5 3.0 v6 5 speed 4x4 with a 3inch body lift and want to do a 1uz v8 swap . the reson y i whold like to do it is because the 3.0 v6 sucks !. it lags on pawer it is a bid time gas eater and i also have many problums with it!!!
so i got sum questions!
i whold like to keep my drive train is it possible?? by that i ment my transition and also my transfer case???
also can it still be 4x4??
haw hard is the wiring??
i em verry serious about this swap im ready to star ordering parts !! :w rench:
thanks guys for any info!1
so i got sum questions!
i whold like to keep my drive train is it possible?? by that i ment my transition and also my transfer case???
also can it still be 4x4??
haw hard is the wiring??
i em verry serious about this swap im ready to star ordering parts !! :w rench:
thanks guys for any info!1
#4
Registered User
drive train=yes
4x4=yes
wiring difficulty=medium
the best rout to take is to find a donor car, 90-93 ls400/gs400 these seem to be the more
popular ones (i used a 90 ls)
parts to order: if you have lots of cash order a complete bellhousing from down under(this being Australia) or supracharged.com. or the cheaper but more work involved
is to buy an adapter or plans for the adapter of ebay.
you can use your stock flywheel/clutch with a little machining to the flywheel.
next step, save up some money to buy off your wife/GF because you won't see them for the next month/year
4x4=yes
wiring difficulty=medium
the best rout to take is to find a donor car, 90-93 ls400/gs400 these seem to be the more
popular ones (i used a 90 ls)
parts to order: if you have lots of cash order a complete bellhousing from down under(this being Australia) or supracharged.com. or the cheaper but more work involved
is to buy an adapter or plans for the adapter of ebay.
you can use your stock flywheel/clutch with a little machining to the flywheel.
next step, save up some money to buy off your wife/GF because you won't see them for the next month/year
#5
Registered User
birdduck, are you required to machine the flywheel regardless if you get the adapter or bellhousing? I have been reading the forums but I'm not quiet getting the difference between the bellhousing or adapter route in terms of difficulty.
Also, this shop is selling bell housing locally in US for $350: http://www.monster-performance.com/m...products_id=30
Also, this shop is selling bell housing locally in US for $350: http://www.monster-performance.com/m...products_id=30
#7
Registered User
what needs to be done if you use a 3.0(3vze) flywheel is the center bore needs to be increased a few thousands(where it slides over the crank) the holes are close enough that
they just need to be slotted a few 1/32's... now the important part is the depth of the flywheel, this i mean the over all thickness of it, in order for the starter to engage the ring
gear you will need to remove around 5/16 off the back of the flywheel... DO not go more than this or the flywheel will contact the block along the outer edge.. mine has a 1/16 or so gap.. no need to balance it or anything like that. the machine shop i used only charged 75 bucks to do all this.
they just need to be slotted a few 1/32's... now the important part is the depth of the flywheel, this i mean the over all thickness of it, in order for the starter to engage the ring
gear you will need to remove around 5/16 off the back of the flywheel... DO not go more than this or the flywheel will contact the block along the outer edge.. mine has a 1/16 or so gap.. no need to balance it or anything like that. the machine shop i used only charged 75 bucks to do all this.
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#8
Registered User
sorry yes you need to machine the flywheel regardless of the adapter/bell you use.
an adapter plate goes between the 1uz auto bell and the r/w/g tranny..
google search 1uz to r series trany adapter and look at the images.
an adapter plate goes between the 1uz auto bell and the r/w/g tranny..
google search 1uz to r series trany adapter and look at the images.
#9
Registered User
Thanks. Got it!
What I was trying to get at was if you used the bell housing instead of the adapter, would you still need to elongate the clutch fork which you did in your swap. I figured you had to do that since you increased the overall length with the adapter added inbetween the bell housing & transmission.
ej1bullet, sorry for hijacking your thread =p
What I was trying to get at was if you used the bell housing instead of the adapter, would you still need to elongate the clutch fork which you did in your swap. I figured you had to do that since you increased the overall length with the adapter added inbetween the bell housing & transmission.
ej1bullet, sorry for hijacking your thread =p
#10
Registered User
correct.
don't think its a thread jack just asking questions he may have himself.. either way i am happy to answer any questions i can
just start your own thread hgill..
don't think its a thread jack just asking questions he may have himself.. either way i am happy to answer any questions i can
just start your own thread hgill..
Last edited by birdduck; 11-17-2010 at 06:21 AM.
#13
Registered User
i don't think the two could be related... its like what mr. garrison said on south park about evolution.. the 3.0 would be the fish. and the 4.0 the half retarded monkey human.
#15
Registered User
For now, Its so awesome to see other people doing the swap and defining the perfect 'sleeper truck' ... I'm sure I will catch up soon =p
#16
Registered User
the wiring is the hardest part of the swap.. get yerself a donor car and get to work man!
the only fab work involved really is the engine mounts, and trany mount.
the only fab work involved really is the engine mounts, and trany mount.
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
yha rma is right im doing a 5.0 swap but i found sum more info hear is haw to do a hrness for the 1uz ! http://www.uzswap.com/forum/index.ph...0;wap2:wrench:
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