Oregon'sLoneWolf

Well guys, my world fell apart and I need some advise.

I won't go into detail here, but you can read the full story in my swap thread. Long story short, my life kinda took a dump and my engine did along with it. Anti freeze out the exhaust can't be a good thing............nor can fuel in my oil. In a nut shell that is what I'm dealing with after my head gasket was changed 300 miles away without my tools nor a place to work on it. I think the mechanic effed it up and it jumped time or the head was cracked and he didn't find it. With fuel in the oil, I may have hydrolocked this one and maybe bent a rod as it wouldn't crank like it was locked up.

If I were to look for another engine, what year can I use if I were to use the 97 harness and ECU with all of the new parts...can I look for a 97 98 or 99?

I know this is all dependent on the EWDs...and things like the TPS and MAF etc......just thought some of you would know.

Someone talk me though this........my head is kinda spinning here and don't know what to do. New engine, get some heads and hope my rods aren't bent????

SacRunner

I was in a similar situation with my swap; my first motor had both heads cracked and bad head gaskets. I filled the block + radiator with coolant, let it sit for a week and when I tried to start it the following weekend it would turn over, maybe, 1/16th of a turn (not much at all) and would act like it was hitting something. Turns out a couple of the cylinders were full of coolant, and since liquids don't compress, the motor couldn't turn over.

For new motors, you can use any block from 95.5-04, with 96-97 4Runners (I think your ECU was a 97 4Runner) will be the easiest. Take the new motor, strip it down to a long block and swap all the electronics from your now dead motor over to the new motor.

Good luck, this is definitely a tough spot to be in.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Yeah, I think that is what I have come to the conclusion to do. Yes, mine was locked up I"m sure from coolant and yeah, probably or maybe may have bent a rod.........just like my 3.0. I thought my new starter and the solenoid had failed and was stuck in the flywheel. I'll pull the plugs and crank by hand just to be sure but I know it is a gonner. If I wait some time I can save another G and just get a reman long block.......... It truly sucks no doubt.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Great news. The mechanic is a good guy and will ship out to me a new re-manufactured long block............ 0 miles from a shop in Cali. at no expense. Sounds good to me and the 3 year warranty even better. I was sure to have been out $1500 for the work he did that lasted only 300 miles. He will cover the other 300 bucks and core fee for the trouble. Only downfall............I have to hoof it for another few weeks.

I think it will work out just fine.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like the best possible outcome. Generally, with a rebuild from a shop there is some warranty. But with a junk yard motor swap, you're gambling. I'm glad he is stepping up to make it right. The newer blocks had no hole drilled out for the dipstick. I think 2000 and up maybe? Not too sure. But you can just drill the hole in the correct spot. You just need to make sure you use a "U" size drill bit. That is the only "mechanical " difference so to say. Just swap over all the electronics, sensors, throttle body, injectors.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I am sorry about your engine but it looks like things are going to work out.

I wish I was closer I would be glad to give you something to drive and swap engines.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

That's for the heads up. I wouldn't have known about the drill bit. and yeah, 3 year warranty isn't too bad. I'll check the injectors and change the knock sensor harness while I'm in there. Maybe you would know, is cleaning the injectors like described on YouTube a good idea for those since they use a pulse? Sure as hell don't want to dig into this again anytime soon.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Thanks Craig..........you rock man! Lucky for me I have neighbors that feel for me and I have vehicles to use when needed. But, I don't mind the exercise. My dogs like the exercise too.

While I"m waiting I'll change out my fuel pump that has 235,000 miles on it. I don't feel like messing with this for a while and........it's prob due anyway. Rear axle seals and bearings are changed, front axle replaced and new ball joints/tie rods are in place. For around $4500, (includes new tires) this vehicle will be brand new. Love this 4Runner.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Just a general question for everyone, besides exhaust and intake manifold gaskets, and new O rings for the injectors, does anyone know of what other odds and ends I will need? I recall reading the knock sensors need a special tool. Will it, and will there be any other SST I might need? Will I need new bolts of any kind? Crank bolt maybe? The only ones I would think might be needed would be the head gasket ones...........but those will be new and installed of course.

This puppy will get Royal Purple break in oil and Royal Purple for LIFE. Based on some tests I saw on YouTube comparing Amsoil with RP.......I think that stuff should be used on all engines. If you guys haven't seen this........be sure to check it out. This test has me sold!!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Don`t know for sure but I always install new bolt in the Crank.

Not sure if I read or was told about doing that.

They are not that expensive with so many stories of them coming loose I would rather just install a new bolt .

I know some have reused them with no problems.

Then I most often use new bolts and nuts because they way things rust after one winter.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Yeah, I read that about the crank bolt too. Gee..........between your State Troopers and the stuff they put on the roads out there in the winter, I don't think I want to visit any time soon. One would think there would be a class action lawsuit against the state for the damage that stuff causes to the vehicles.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The real scary part is what it does to the steel in the bridges .