3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

swap 94 3.0 to 96 3.4 SC keeping 340h auto

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Old 03-09-2012, 01:56 PM
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swap 94 3.0 to 96 3.4 SC keeping 340h auto

Hi everyone, I am in the process of my 96 4runner 3.4 swap into the 94 SR5 3.0 auto. I will be keeping the 340h, it is being rebuilt and fitted with upgraded clutch packs and a higher pressure boost solenoid to handle the torque (hopefully)

My harness is from Toyonlyswaps and is on its way back to me, I have been working some on the new engine and piecing everything together slowly over the last year, and I think I have just about everything I need. Toyonlyswaps has offered me the exhaust kickdown pipe from the 3.4 T100 but say that it is not the best option, if I can find one from a 4Runner I would buy it. These trucks are hard to come by in the junk yards around here, and the new motor was pulled for me so I am learning the 3.4 as I go along so I will surely have questions that the FSM and Haynes can't answer, hope to find some of that here.

Anyone have one for sale or advise me to somewhere I can find one of the kickdowns?

Look forward to getting started, trying to read and learn as much as I can about this, hopefully it will all go smoothly. Great site! Lots of info, always been helpful with the 3.0!

Here is a pic of the truck, will post some of the new engine as I get it cleaned up and prepared to set in.

Old 03-14-2012, 02:48 PM
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Looks like your well on your way with the swap, you'll love it. I also kept the a340h when I did my swap and found that it really didn't like the extra power from the 3.4, mine had also been recently rebuilt but not upgraded like your doing so I hope it works out for you. I would add a transmission cooler just to be safe though, mine overheated and I think this might of been avoided with the cooler. Might try car-part.com to search junkyards for the downpipe.
Old 03-27-2012, 06:18 AM
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Thanks kg

I haven't been able to get a lot done because I have been working on getting my bike running for the season and keep waiting on parts and finding more things that need replacement and work.

I do have a few questions that hopefully someone can answer for me regarding the swap. Since I didn't take the engine out of the 96, I am putting this thing together blindly. I have been reading and doing research and so forth, but my first question is about the fuel lines.

I have read "fuel line flip", but I wanted to clarify. Is the best option simply unbolting the banjo bolt and support bracket for the high pressure line and rotating it 180*, or should I run a new hard line to the drivers side and run it that way?

Since I'm using the a340h, do I use the stock flexplate or do I need the 3.4? I have got almost all of the required parts together and will be starting it shortly so I'm sure I will run across a few more items. Anyone who can chime in would be great! Thanks guys
Old 03-27-2012, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by RDubya
Is the best option simply unbolting the banjo bolt and support bracket for the high pressure line and rotating it 180*
Yes, this.

Originally Posted by RDubya
Since I'm using the a340h, do I use the stock flexplate or do I need the 3.4?
Not sure since I used the doner a340f. I would venture to say either would work.
Old 03-27-2012, 06:54 AM
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thank you sir. Extending the return line shouldn't be a big deal, but I need to replace the fuel line from the filter as it is kind of rusty, and the brake lines coming off the ABS actuator are ready to explode so I am going to do those too. Trans should be ready next week and I will hopefully be putting it back together and posting a few pics to show my progress.

thanks again
Old 03-27-2012, 08:47 AM
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I used the flex plate from the a340h and it worked just fine, I also used the starter from the 3.0. Flipping the fuel line is what I did, didn't have any problems with length and it bolted right up to the old line.
Old 04-06-2012, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by kg206
I used the flex plate from the a340h and it worked just fine, I also used the starter from the 3.0. Flipping the fuel line is what I did, didn't have any problems with length and it bolted right up to the old line.
So when you installed the 3.4, which torque converter did you use, the 3.4 or the 3.0?

I am planning on 3.4 TC and 3.0 flexplate and starter. My transmission guy informed me that the 3.0 TC is not the one to use, simply because they are known for not moving fluid very well, something due to the welds internally. we compared them side by side and they should be a direct swap. This will also help the trans engage in lower gears better.

I had maybe 5k miles on a fresh fluid flush and it was burned and dirty. It's nice and clean inside now and I will be running synthetic fluid with additives to increase the boiling temp. Hopefully with a few modifications internally it will be able to take the torque. I might still need an aftermarket cooler if it gets hot, hopefully not.
Old 04-06-2012, 09:05 AM
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In a similar position, speaking with fallman he mentioned that he used the 3.4 torque converters and from what I understand the torque converter tailored to the motor so keeping the 3.4 torque converter with the 3.4 motor might be a good idea.

Same with flipping the fuel line from the T100, however mine's almost too long, not really a bad thing.
Old 04-06-2012, 02:35 PM
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I used the torque converter from the 3.0. I haven't heard of using the torque converter from the 3.4, but if its been done before that seems like the way to go as I would think it would withstand the power better than the 3.0 one would. Interesting idea, keep us posted!
Old 04-07-2012, 08:57 AM
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I used the 3.4 Torque converter have had no problems with it yet. My theory was If it was on the 3.4 I should probably use it
Old 04-08-2012, 07:58 AM
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Its a long way from you but this junkyard 67 truck / auto dismantlers in lakeside,ca has a pile of exhaust crossovers that your looking for. I think i paid $40 (619)390-1618
Old 05-20-2012, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ultimase
In a similar position, speaking with fallman he mentioned that he used the 3.4 torque converters and from what I understand the torque converter tailored to the motor so keeping the 3.4 torque converter with the 3.4 motor might be a good idea.

Same with flipping the fuel line from the T100, however mine's almost too long, not really a bad thing.
Yeah the torque converter stall matches the motor, so without changing it I was told the truck would probably not use first gear at start off, or would stay in too long.

Do I need a T100 fuel line? Or can I use the one from the 96 4Runner?

they look very similar in the diagrams on toyotapartseast, but the numbers are different.

ok been a while since I've updated, I finally got the motorcycle running so I have turned my focus to the truck.

I have done some work the last few days, I tore the 3.4 down to replace the lower intake gaskets, I was thinking about not doing it but when I pulled it out of the valley I found that they were both blown. I am in the process of changing the timing belt right now, will probably get some more of that done tomorrow.

I have found that my high pressure steering line to the pump that comes out of the actuator is very rusty and likely going to fail soon, so I have sourced a Gates replacement from RockAuto. Is there a better option for this line? I will have to grind off the tab on it, but is there a better option? The ABS actuator is staying unless I have to remove it?

Also I changed the oil pressure sender from the 3.0. I am just confirming that this is the piece that screws into the block on the R side by the oil filter? I don't want to fry my gauge.

Oil baffle was cut, 3.0 pan and pickup tube installed. new front main seal, ordering a new rear main for safety sake, and also painting parts and cleaning as I go. I will post a pic of the engine when I get it ready to do.

I did find a kickdown pipe spinyard, but thanks for that information.
Old 05-20-2012, 11:35 AM
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There have been several people that have used the 3.0 torque converter without issue, I'd bet the stall speed is a bit different but it does work.

I used a T100 fuel line, I believe others have gotten away with using the other fuel line, but I'm not 100% sure on this one.

On the power steering line I actually just took some pliers and bent the tab away and it bolted up fine. If there is anything that might fail you want to do it while the motor is on the stand, while the 3.4 gives you a lot more space to work on everything than the 3.0, it's still a lot easier to work on the motor while it's on the stand.

Yes the oil pressure sender is just to the left of the oil filter, you want to put the 3.0 oil pressure sender on the the 3.4 block and you might have to solder on the connector for it.

Originally Posted by RDubya
Yeah the torque converter stall matches the motor, so without changing it I was told the truck would probably not use first gear at start off, or would stay in too long.

Do I need a T100 fuel line? Or can I use the one from the 96 4Runner?

they look very similar in the diagrams on toyotapartseast, but the numbers are different.

ok been a while since I've updated, I finally got the motorcycle running so I have turned my focus to the truck.

I have done some work the last few days, I tore the 3.4 down to replace the lower intake gaskets, I was thinking about not doing it but when I pulled it out of the valley I found that they were both blown. I am in the process of changing the timing belt right now, will probably get some more of that done tomorrow.

I have found that my high pressure steering line to the pump that comes out of the actuator is very rusty and likely going to fail soon, so I have sourced a Gates replacement from RockAuto. Is there a better option for this line? I will have to grind off the tab on it, but is there a better option? The ABS actuator is staying unless I have to remove it?

Also I changed the oil pressure sender from the 3.0. I am just confirming that this is the piece that screws into the block on the R side by the oil filter? I don't want to fry my gauge.

Oil baffle was cut, 3.0 pan and pickup tube installed. new front main seal, ordering a new rear main for safety sake, and also painting parts and cleaning as I go. I will post a pic of the engine when I get it ready to do.

I did find a kickdown pipe spinyard, but thanks for that information.
Old 05-29-2012, 03:48 AM
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hey, another quick question, do I need to swap in any of the 3.4 AC parts? I've read expansion valve, but haven't found any other information to confirm. Probably installing the engine this weekend if all goes well, trying to be proactive.

Any input on this would be great.
Old 05-29-2012, 05:41 AM
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There's a whole thread just on AC for 3.4 swaps. Read it

:wabbit2:
Old 05-29-2012, 06:36 AM
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You do not need to swap the expansion valve out, there is a post that covers the AC conversion at the top of the forum. I followed that and everything works fine.

My two worst fears in this swap was getting the T100 ecu to talk to the transmission and the AC, and surprisingly these two things were the easiest things of the entire swap.
Old 06-15-2012, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by waskillywabbit
There's a whole thread just on AC for 3.4 swaps. Read it

:wabbit2:
I guess I should have been more specific. I have read a lot of information, I was clarifying info about the expansion valve, I am using the 3.4 compressor with 3.0 top plate, just trying to clarify. Thanks for the direction though.

So I got the 3.4 just about ready to go, had to order a few more parts a spark plug wire kit from dealer, will probably have it all ready tomorrow afternoon.

The wire harness is different from the 3.0, trans and o2 wires drop on L side instead of R. I took a few more pics and wanted to get opinions on wires and routing because I am putting this together blindly, hard to be sure things are going in the right place.




Is the second image of the brace supposed to support wiring? In the first image, im concerned about bracing the harness away from the exhaust, can anyone offer input? I will post a few more images later, I will need help routing vacuum and heater hoses with the s/c, any good sources for diagrams? I think that bracket supports the throttle cable, I ordered the missing clamp, but I'm concerned about routing the harness and preventing it from burning with the exhaust right there.

Another thing that concerns me is the two connections on the throttle body pictured here.




It looks like that piece is rubbing on the injector harness casing, is that typical? I can't recall if the 96 4runner harness did that, this harness is from 98t100.

I have to remake some vacuum lines and get the rest of the engine prepped and then start working on the trucks fuel and evap lines, change a few brake lines and then start piecing it together.

Should be interesting!
Old 06-21-2012, 06:19 AM
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hey guy i am new to the site i have been serching around for info on my tranny it is a 4 speed on the floor withe a 3.0 3vze turning it i would like to know the stall rpms and anything else that could be helpfull about playing around or tuning it up.
Old 06-21-2012, 06:32 AM
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Wrong section. Try here the 86-95 Trucks & 4Runner section
Old 06-22-2012, 10:16 AM
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