ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Oh boy, the JOY OF TIGHT SPACES while working on a TIGHT SQUEEZE SWAP! lol.

I grabbed 2 heater core switching valves last time there... Off a 92 and 94 4Runner and Pickup. Plastic is MO BETTA! lol. 90* to defeat the 'squeeze' monster?

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have been having trouble finding a heater tube that fits nicely. A 90* valve would make things much easier. I'll have pictures if I find a nice one.

SacRunner

Those heater hoses have been the hardest part of the swap so far. I think I have "figured it out" 3-4 times now and each time I found something new I didn't like, though I think I found a combination that'll work for now.

I will definitely be interested to see how that 90* Corolla valve works.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Wow, sounds like you're not alone, SuperChiem! lol... That's one of many things that scares people off of the 1UZ and other swaps.... "this thing is BARELY gonna fit!" lol.... But then, guys get there 7MGTE's into these.... THAT'S a 'deep' motor... Almost easier to squeeze in a V8, from what I've seen, right?

I did see a guy with a motor home like yours, SC.... He had a 3800 Buick Motor in it... DAYUM was it quick for a Motorhome! lol. He was telling me the Buick motors go in easy.... I've seen a few now(just in toys, in general, not Motorhomes)... And I know that's a decent motor for a GM realm.... Still, compared to a 5VZE? Yeah... just can't see it holding up to the longevity of that 3.4! lol.

I'm still looking, as often as possible, for my own Dolphin or the like! lol.

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys finally got a 90* valve, but I need to move the cable that controls it. The control for the valve is on the top and not at the bottom like the original 3vz's. I got this off a 94 camry.





I have to do a little brain storming before I pull the trigger.

Till next time!

Navy

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

RIGHT ON, makes sense... now just have to 'make it work', lol. Got it

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

Well I just cut some of the original heater hoses and made it work. I couldn't use the 90 degree water valve without major modification. I'll show pictures of the water valve later.

Now I have a new problem! I heat shrinked 1 wire that I meant to do later, which was B+ right before the park neutral switch. After heat shrinking I went to start it and it would crank, but won't fire up. I sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it fired up for a little.

Maf is in spec and has resistance. Didn't check the crank position sensor yet though. Fuel pump is running and there is fuel all way to the fuel rail. I don't have the oboII wires hooked up yet so not sure of cel. Might have to do that though. Any advice would be great.

Thank you,

Navy

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

I hooked up the ob2 and guess what no codes! :lmao: This is the only time I wish I had some codes to read. I've looked at everything and it seems like it might be the ecm. Nothing else controls the injectors besides the ecm. Inputs needed are crankshaft, but I have good resistance there.

Hopefully the ecm doesn't cost more than my swap. :lmao:

Navy

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

I talked to my auto instructor at school and he said to check the voltage before and after the injector and what the differences is. The injectors use an average of 3v, which he said is normal. During cranking the voltage is on and off showing that the injectors are pulsing.

Although I don't have to spend money on a ecm I still have a fuel problem.

I ordered an Actron fuel gauge off of amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ls_o00_s00_i00

It came with an adapter that fits on our fuel rail, but to use it I need a 90 degree bend.

I went to true value and got some pipe fittings. I cut off the end of the adapter tapped it and threaded in the 90 degree pipe.

I test fitted it and gave it 2 turns and a last turn with very little effort to get the 90 degree fitting to point up and it broke. Thank God it didn't get jammed in the fuel line, but it broke like a paper clip. I didn't even get it anywhere close to tight.









I'm going to see if toyota as the adapter or order another one of these and try again.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Is the COR kicking on to power the fuel pump?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

3.4 Guru^^^^ CHECK THE COR~! hahaha.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

PS> Vitaly.... is the 3.4 Fuel Pump function dual stage(dual in at least the VMAF[??] and COR?). Or is it just IGN and COR? Wasn't sure it even had a COR, lol... Always looking into the 3.4 whenever I see stuff posted. Don't always post... but have around 300 posts of yours Bookmarked, hahaha.

PSx2> .... WUSUP, HEIM? .... Hope all is well otherwise/aside from breaking fittings, etc.! haha.

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

Yes sir. The cor is on during cranking. The pump also is on during cranking.

Yes all is well. Being patience is the key. Otherwise I would have stopped at the transmission install. Ha

I order this from ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250408476337...witem=&vxp=mtr



12mm banjo bolt to 1/8 npt thread. Take notes!

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

Well I finally got my adapter. I should have just save myself 12 bucks and made it myself, but oh well.

Here it is next to the broken Actron adapter:



I didn't tighten down the 90 degree elbow to much because I thought it was going to snap, but later on I did because it was leaking at that point. Remember to use plumber tape. It will save you the trouble of undoing everything the second time.



Put barbs on both ends:







I used a coat hanger to hang my gauge.



If you have a remote starter. I unplugged the relay and hooked it up to the battery.







Then crank away! I got around 45 psi, which is normal. Now I have no idea what my problem can be now haha.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

On when cranking is not on when running. The MAF sends a signal to the COR to keep the fuel pump running when it senses air flow goin into the motor.

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

Ic, but I need it just to start. Wouldn't it at least start during cranking?

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

Checked some source voltage going to the ECM:

BATT = 12.59v
+B = 12.18v
VC = 12.14v
IGSW= 12.20v
IGF = 5.02v

Also checked ECM grounds:

E01 ok
E02 ok
E03 ok
E04 ok
ME01 ok
E1 ok
E2 ok

Everything looks like its in spec so far.

Although I swapped a crankshaft positioning sensor the wire may have resistance and can throw off the computer (I think). My cheapy harbor freight DVOM is unreliable when it comes to resistance, so I am going to buy a nicer one.

Throw some ideas out folks! I need your help!

Thank you,

Navy

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

I just manually grounded the injector and it fired for a few seconds and died. I figure there might be some internal resistance in the ECM. There are only a few things left to check before I change the ECM now.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Are you sure you're getting a full 12v to the black with red wire to power the injectors? I'm thinking that the ecu isn't getting the right signal to fire the injectors. Are you sure you have the STA wired up right?

superchiem

iTrader: (1)

I am getting 12v to the injectors that is how I was able to manually ground them out. I'm pretty sure I have the STA wired correctly because it was running before.

The STA is spliced between the park neutral safety switch and starter relay (coil side). Then it goes to the ecu connector E14 pin 7.