It's Dead :(

UKrunner · 07-12-2009, 05:04 PM

Just tried to start it up for the first time. No warning lights triggered by the ECU (check engine etc.) No alternator warning light etc. All I get is the seatbelt warning, OT off and ECT power mode. No click on the starter even though the interior lights dim.

So what did I miss?

Also I still have not figured out how to connect my 340H to the 3.4 ecu. Iv'e got most of the wiring done but the solenoids do not match.

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UKrunner · 07-12-2009, 06:02 PM

Ok, missed a ground to the alternator body. That lit up the battery and brake warning light along with the transmission temp warning light. Everything else still the same. I'm getting switched +12v to the ecu B+ pin. Cant check the BATT+ pin until tomorow when its lighter outside.

Does the ecu need to be screwed into the body to work? Is there a ground on the case that if disconnected stops the ecu from working?

RobD · 07-12-2009, 06:21 PM

Now, this is just a guess, since it's been two years since I did my swap, but I quickly went through my notes and couldn't find anything about a ground wire. From what I can see, you might not have the computer grounded through the case, but I'd have to pull my kickpanel to see what I did. I think I ran a ground wire, but I can't remember from where.

UKrunner · 07-13-2009, 10:18 AM

The BAT pin is not getting 12v. Traced back to IH1 pin 10 and no power there either. Looked for the EFI relay and it not there. As in theres no location, no connector no wires where it should be! So where could it be if its not in the relay and fuse tray under the hood? Hunt is on for the 15A EFI fuse too.

UKrunner · 07-13-2009, 10:43 AM

*BLUSH*

Ahem, IH1 and IH2 connect better if you push them all the way in.

So now I have a check engine light but it still will not start. When I turn the key to start the clock fades to nothing and the guages dim slightly. Neutral Start Switch maybe? Thats what I'm looking at now.

UKrunner · 07-13-2009, 01:30 PM

Hmm, these public shows of stupidity have to stop. The black wire from the NSS was disconnected yet I showed it as tested in my notes. Scary.

Anyway, she cranks over now but I dont have my exhausts fully fabbed so I wont start it with just the manifolds on.

habanero · 07-13-2009, 01:35 PM

It's Gremlins, dear.
Keep up the shows, it's always interesting to get to see someone's thought process-

without the language that often goes with.

hross14 · 07-13-2009, 03:02 PM

Been there also--Try crossed spark plug wires----Good luck

UKrunner · 07-14-2009, 04:35 AM

Can someone edit the title of this thread to include "It was dead. Now It's alive" or something similar?

:gigantic smiley:

Actually I only let it fire for maybe a second just because there is no exhaust. Geez after 15 months, you'd think I'd be able to wait another day!

I havent done the tach mod yet. There is no responce on the tach at all, is that normal? I thought I'd read somewhere that theres came up to about 1500rpm and stayed there. Also, since reformatting this laptop I've lost the link to the How To with pics so if someone could direct me to that it would be apreciated.

Also, I'm planning on doing an excel spreadsheet with pictures of the actual connectors and their locations on the vehicle so someone can follow it as a guide later on. No guarentees on either finishing it or the accuracy yet though - I've got some driving to do!

Still begging for help with the transmission solenoids wiring. Someone has to have done this before. There are 4 solenoids on the 340H but the 3.4 ECU only shows 3 on the diagram. How are you controlling the trans?

Gravehunter · 07-14-2009, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UKrunner

Can someone edit the title of this thread to include "It was dead. Now It's alive" or something similar?

:gigantic smiley:

Actually I only let it fire for maybe a second just because there is no exhaust. Geez after 15 months, you'd think I'd be able to wait another day!

I havent done the tach mod yet. There is no responce on the tach at all, is that normal? I thought I'd read somewhere that theres came up to about 1500rpm and stayed there. Also, since reformatting this laptop I've lost the link to the How To with pics so if someone could direct me to that it would be apreciated.

Also, I'm planning on doing an excel spreadsheet with pictures of the actual connectors and their locations on the vehicle so someone can follow it as a guide later on. No guarentees on either finishing it or the accuracy yet though - I've got some driving to do!

Still begging for help with the transmission solenoids wiring. Someone has to have done this before. There are 4 solenoids on the 340H but the 3.4 ECU only shows 3 on the diagram. How are you controlling the trans?

I just got done doing my trans wiring. The 4th solinoid goes into the transfercase. Thefallman told me its a safety solinoid that makes it so you can't shift into 4x4 when going over 35mph. So you can just leave it disconnected but will have to remember not to shift into 4x4 over 35mph.
The other solinoids seemed straight forward.. #1, 2.. 3... etc...

UKrunner · 07-14-2009, 12:52 PM

Ok, so it starts and runs for 2 seconds then quits. I tied the green/yellow wire to the white/black terminal on the cor relay and disconnected the white/black wire. This should fix the fuel pump on when starting issue right?

Just checked, am only getting voltage when the key is in the start position.

BAMF_CT2004 · 07-14-2009, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gravehunter

I just got done doing my trans wiring. The 4th solinoid goes into the transfercase. Thefallman told me its a safety solinoid that makes it so you can't shift into 4x4 when going over 35mph. So you can just leave it disconnected but will have to remember not to shift into 4x4 over 35mph.
The other solinoids seemed straight forward.. #1, 2.. 3... etc...

Let me know how 4lo works out for you with the 340h. I used the 340h as well and cant get into 4lo with the truck running. I have to turn the truck off, put it in 4lo and then turn it on. 4hi is not a problem. just 4lo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by UKrunner

Ok, so it starts and runs for 2 seconds then quits. I tied the green/yellow wire to the white/black terminal on the cor relay and disconnected the white/black wire. This should fix the fuel pump on when starting issue right?

MAF????

UKrunner · 07-14-2009, 01:14 PM

MAF, could be, it was covered in oil.

UKrunner · 07-14-2009, 01:18 PM

It's not the maf.

UKrunner · 07-14-2009, 02:06 PM

Well, I jumpered the COR relay and got the fuel pump working but it still cuts out after 2 seconds.

Sooo close!

Gravehunter · 07-14-2009, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BAMF_CT2004

Let me know how 4lo works out for you with the 340h. I used the 340h as well and cant get into 4lo with the truck running. I have to turn the truck off, put it in 4lo and then turn it on. 4hi is not a problem. just 4lo.

ok.. yah i'm a ways from getting it all hooked up. We are moving here in 3-4 weeks.. so i'm just trying to get enough done so the basics work and i can drive it to the new place. 4x4, A/C.. etc.. will have to be done later and we get settled at the new place.

Mine doesn't run yet either... so no one take what i posted as being for sure correct. I'm a complete newb at this and would normally never post about swapping info.. but since i just got done trying to figure out the exact same thing i thought i'd share. The Auto swap info isn't as plentiful as the manual info.

Wonder why.. you'd have to shut the truck off to get 4lo to work? thats weird.

Gravehunter · 07-14-2009, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by UKrunner

Well, I jumpered the COR relay and got the fuel pump working but it still cuts out after 2 seconds.

Sooo close!

While wearing out the search engine feature over the last 2 months here i ran across a post about your problem. That vehicle was doing the exact same thing. I wasn't needing any info out of that post.. so moved on.. i can't remember what the solution was.. but the guy found out what it was. Try searching... for the same problem.. i'll keep thinking of what it was....

Gravehunter · 07-14-2009, 02:20 PM

http://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=6360265

There is 4 there. 3 of them specifically like yours. Read those.

Sounds like your fuel pump is shutting off after you let off the key. ?

UKrunner · 07-14-2009, 03:00 PM

I must stop jumping to conclusions! It may be the MAF afterall! I jumpered the COR and had the pump working and turned it on. This time for some reason it kept on spluttering for 20 seconds. Started again and played with the throttle ran better. Repeated several times and can keep it running all the time if I play with the throttle but it runs like crap.
Had the bright idea to disconnect the MAF and it runs so much better without it. CEL comes on as expected but it was not on when the MAF was conected.

So can the MAF be bad yet keep the check engine light off, and does this sound like the MAF to you guys?

UKrunner · 07-15-2009, 07:27 AM

Found that the plug I'd put in one of the holes in the intake pipe is missing. This is obviously a huge air leak. It also most likely means the plastic bung has been ingested by the engine.

I cannot find it anywhere.

UKrunner · 07-15-2009, 08:18 PM

Can some one please take a few pictures of the vacuum lines connected the engine and the air intake tube? I can get the egine to run if I play with the throttle but if I take my foot off the accelerator it will eventually die. I did notice that as it's dieing as soon as the warning lights light up on the dash it fires right up again and runs fine for a few more seconds. It does this a couple of times until it finally dies completely.

hross14 · 07-16-2009, 07:57 AM

did you check the plug wires?

The haynes manual i have states the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.....but that is wrong!!!! Double check that and just to test the system--cap off all the vacumm lines to emissions and etc....

UKrunner · 07-16-2009, 09:02 PM

Plug leads are in the right order. Capped off all vacuum lines. Problem still exists.

It's interesting that as its dying, as soon as the warning lights flicker on the dash, it will jump back to life and then slow down, sputter and either jump back again when the dash lights come on or die if it doesnt "catch". IF I feather the throttle it will run all the time, smooth at first then rougher and rougher until randomly it clears up again and runs fine for a few more seconds.

hross14 · 07-17-2009, 07:01 AM

I dont want to frustrate you--but that is exactly what my toyota did when i had the leads reversed.

Is it running really rich? Are the cats glowing? Crank and Cam sensor are clear from obstructions? No vacumm leaks with the intake manifold? Timing belt on correctly??

I know this sounds frustrating but it sounds a 180 degrees off. That is a saying we used here in the states when a distributor was 180 degrees off.

Is there another engine you can check to make sure the leads are correct. I, much like yourself did all the same things you are doing--then i checked my leads against a stock truck and wouldnt you know it--they were wrong.

Also, the lower intake manifold has air passages in it to inject air right at the injector spray nozzles--make sure all injectors are seated properly and the !!!!!!!!!THAT VACUMM LINE AT THE BACK OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD--IT HAS TO BE HOOKED UP TO RUN!!!!

Had an AH HA moment--there is a vacumm line at the back of the lowest/lower intake manifold that feeds the air passages to the injectors. It is the "Y" kinda shaped one. In order to idle right I think it needs to be hooked up. Check that one out also--and verify with another running yota the lead order.

Good luck

UKrunner · 07-17-2009, 09:02 AM

Thanks for the follow up. This is West Michigan, I think there are 12 Toyota's here!!! Gonna be hard to check my leads with another engine so if anyone has pics that would be nice.

Whats this vacuum line you speak of? I dont see a Y shaped line. Any pics of this?

07-12-2009, 06:21 PM	#3 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,727	Now, this is just a guess, since it's been two years since I did my swap, but I quickly went through my notes and couldn't find anything about a ground wire. From what I can see, you might not have the computer grounded through the case, but I'd have to pull my kickpanel to see what I did. I think I ran a ground wire, but I can't remember from where. __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

07-13-2009, 03:02 PM	#8 (permalink)
hross14 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Austin Texas Posts: 1,169	Been there also--Try crossed spark plug wires----Good luck __________________ Yes, I said "country." America really is a nation, but you couldn't convince those who lead the Democratic and Republican Parties of that. Both parties now see America as nothing more than an economy, a marketplace, and not a sovereign nation. They don't see you and me as citizens of this great nation; they see us as units of labor, consumers and taxpayers. Yes, I am here to collect my 238$ worth of stock from AIG. "What do you mean a free market economy doesnt apply to the rich?"

07-14-2009, 12:52 PM	#11 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Ok, so it starts and runs for 2 seconds then quits. I tied the green/yellow wire to the white/black terminal on the cor relay and disconnected the white/black wire. This should fix the fuel pump on when starting issue right? Just checked, am only getting voltage when the key is in the start position. Last edited by UKrunner; 07-14-2009 at 01:09 PM.

07-14-2009, 02:20 PM	#18 (permalink)
Gravehunter Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 62	http://www.yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=6360265 There is 4 there. 3 of them specifically like yours. Read those. Sounds like your fuel pump is shutting off after you let off the key. ? __________________ . . . 1990 Toyota pickup. Ext cab, 4x4 with a 3.4 auto swap. Cragar Soft 8's, 33/10.50-15 BFG's. 2" body lift.

07-16-2009, 07:57 AM	#22 (permalink)
hross14 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Austin Texas Posts: 1,169	did you check the plug wires? The haynes manual i have states the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.....but that is wrong!!!! Double check that and just to test the system--cap off all the vacumm lines to emissions and etc.... __________________ Yes, I said "country." America really is a nation, but you couldn't convince those who lead the Democratic and Republican Parties of that. Both parties now see America as nothing more than an economy, a marketplace, and not a sovereign nation. They don't see you and me as citizens of this great nation; they see us as units of labor, consumers and taxpayers. Yes, I am here to collect my 238$ worth of stock from AIG. "What do you mean a free market economy doesnt apply to the rich?"

07-12-2009, 06:02 PM	#2 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Ok, missed a ground to the alternator body. That lit up the battery and brake warning light along with the transmission temp warning light. Everything else still the same. I'm getting switched +12v to the ecu B+ pin. Cant check the BATT+ pin until tomorow when its lighter outside. Does the ecu need to be screwed into the body to work? Is there a ground on the case that if disconnected stops the ecu from working?

07-13-2009, 10:18 AM	#4 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	The BAT pin is not getting 12v. Traced back to IH1 pin 10 and no power there either. Looked for the EFI relay and it not there. As in theres no location, no connector no wires where it should be! So where could it be if its not in the relay and fuse tray under the hood? Hunt is on for the 15A EFI fuse too.

07-13-2009, 10:43 AM	#5 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	BLUSH Ahem, IH1 and IH2 connect better if you push them all the way in. So now I have a check engine light but it still will not start. When I turn the key to start the clock fades to nothing and the guages dim slightly. Neutral Start Switch maybe? Thats what I'm looking at now.

07-13-2009, 01:30 PM	#6 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Hmm, these public shows of stupidity have to stop. The black wire from the NSS was disconnected yet I showed it as tested in my notes. Scary. Anyway, she cranks over now but I dont have my exhausts fully fabbed so I wont start it with just the manifolds on.

07-14-2009, 04:35 AM	#9 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Can someone edit the title of this thread to include "It was dead. Now It's alive" or something similar? :gigantic smiley: Actually I only let it fire for maybe a second just because there is no exhaust. Geez after 15 months, you'd think I'd be able to wait another day! I havent done the tach mod yet. There is no responce on the tach at all, is that normal? I thought I'd read somewhere that theres came up to about 1500rpm and stayed there. Also, since reformatting this laptop I've lost the link to the How To with pics so if someone could direct me to that it would be apreciated. Also, I'm planning on doing an excel spreadsheet with pictures of the actual connectors and their locations on the vehicle so someone can follow it as a guide later on. No guarentees on either finishing it or the accuracy yet though - I've got some driving to do! Still begging for help with the transmission solenoids wiring. Someone has to have done this before. There are 4 solenoids on the 340H but the 3.4 ECU only shows 3 on the diagram. How are you controlling the trans?

07-14-2009, 01:14 PM	#13 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	MAF, could be, it was covered in oil.

07-14-2009, 01:18 PM	#14 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	It's not the maf.

07-14-2009, 02:06 PM	#15 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Well, I jumpered the COR relay and got the fuel pump working but it still cuts out after 2 seconds. Sooo close!

07-14-2009, 03:00 PM	#19 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	I must stop jumping to conclusions! It may be the MAF afterall! I jumpered the COR and had the pump working and turned it on. This time for some reason it kept on spluttering for 20 seconds. Started again and played with the throttle ran better. Repeated several times and can keep it running all the time if I play with the throttle but it runs like crap. Had the bright idea to disconnect the MAF and it runs so much better without it. CEL comes on as expected but it was not on when the MAF was conected. So can the MAF be bad yet keep the check engine light off, and does this sound like the MAF to you guys?

07-15-2009, 07:27 AM	#20 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Found that the plug I'd put in one of the holes in the intake pipe is missing. This is obviously a huge air leak. It also most likely means the plastic bung has been ingested by the engine. I cannot find it anywhere.

07-15-2009, 08:18 PM	#21 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Can some one please take a few pictures of the vacuum lines connected the engine and the air intake tube? I can get the egine to run if I play with the throttle but if I take my foot off the accelerator it will eventually die. I did notice that as it's dieing as soon as the warning lights light up on the dash it fires right up again and runs fine for a few more seconds. It does this a couple of times until it finally dies completely.

07-16-2009, 09:02 PM	#23 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Plug leads are in the right order. Capped off all vacuum lines. Problem still exists. It's interesting that as its dying, as soon as the warning lights flicker on the dash, it will jump back to life and then slow down, sputter and either jump back again when the dash lights come on or die if it doesnt "catch". IF I feather the throttle it will run all the time, smooth at first then rougher and rougher until randomly it clears up again and runs fine for a few more seconds.

07-17-2009, 07:01 AM	#24 (permalink)
hross14 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Austin Texas Posts: 1,169	I dont want to frustrate you--but that is exactly what my toyota did when i had the leads reversed. Is it running really rich? Are the cats glowing? Crank and Cam sensor are clear from obstructions? No vacumm leaks with the intake manifold? Timing belt on correctly?? I know this sounds frustrating but it sounds a 180 degrees off. That is a saying we used here in the states when a distributor was 180 degrees off. Is there another engine you can check to make sure the leads are correct. I, much like yourself did all the same things you are doing--then i checked my leads against a stock truck and wouldnt you know it--they were wrong. Also, the lower intake manifold has air passages in it to inject air right at the injector spray nozzles--make sure all injectors are seated properly and the !!!!!!!!!THAT VACUMM LINE AT THE BACK OF THE INTAKE MANIFOLD--IT HAS TO BE HOOKED UP TO RUN!!!! Had an AH HA moment--there is a vacumm line at the back of the lowest/lower intake manifold that feeds the air passages to the injectors. It is the "Y" kinda shaped one. In order to idle right I think it needs to be hooked up. Check that one out also--and verify with another running yota the lead order. Good luck __________________ Yes, I said "country." America really is a nation, but you couldn't convince those who lead the Democratic and Republican Parties of that. Both parties now see America as nothing more than an economy, a marketplace, and not a sovereign nation. They don't see you and me as citizens of this great nation; they see us as units of labor, consumers and taxpayers. Yes, I am here to collect my 238$ worth of stock from AIG. "What do you mean a free market economy doesnt apply to the rich?"

07-17-2009, 09:02 AM	#25 (permalink)
UKrunner Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 158	Thanks for the follow up. This is West Michigan, I think there are 12 Toyota's here!!! Gonna be hard to check my leads with another engine so if anyone has pics that would be nice. Whats this vacuum line you speak of? I dont see a Y shaped line. Any pics of this?

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