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Old 01-30-2008, 07:26 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Another Question

Are the starters the same between the 3.0 and 3.4. They look the same, but want to verify.
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Old 01-30-2008, 10:27 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Similar, but a teeny bit different. I'm trying to remember how this went, so bear with me. If memory serves, the 3.4 starter has one of the mounting holes threaded and the bolt goes through the bellhousing. And if my memory serves, the bellhousing on your transmission is threaded as well, so you won't be able to run the bolt through both threaded holes. I bored the threads out of the starter and ran the bolt through it into the bellhousing.

If memory serves.
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Old 01-31-2008, 05:07 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Similar, but a teeny bit different. I'm trying to remember how this went, so bear with me. If memory serves, the 3.4 starter has one of the mounting holes threaded and the bolt goes through the bellhousing. And if my memory serves, the bellhousing on your transmission is threaded as well, so you won't be able to run the bolt through both threaded holes. I bored the threads out of the starter and ran the bolt through it into the bellhousing.

If memory serves.
well I already had the 3.4 starter in, but the 3.0 starter was rebuilt not too long ago, just wondering if the gears are gonna match to the flywheels.
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Old 01-31-2008, 06:32 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I am useing the 3.0 starter on the 3.4 for a similiar reason.

No problems.
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:05 PM   #30 (permalink)
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man, you put that motor in super fast.
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Old 01-31-2008, 03:45 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Glad to see you got another 3.4 Mile looks like it is in pretty good shape but seriously considering the rebuild.... for this reason.
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Old 01-31-2008, 04:47 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Just got home with the new one, gonna go start putting it in..
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Old 01-31-2008, 06:31 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Good luck with this one. If you have any questions that I might be able to answer, let me know.
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Old 01-31-2008, 07:41 PM   #34 (permalink)
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well, it took alot longer than expected to swap everything, this one came out of a taco, so we had to switch the pan, and plug the dip stick hole, along with the harness, t belt, and clutch, gonna go stab it and bolt it in and finish up tomorrow night.

And when we took the intake off the 1st 3.4, there is about a quarter inch of mud in 4 of the intake runners, I think we found a problem, I'm guessing bent rods.
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Old 01-31-2008, 08:25 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Here's the new one


All 3 together


getting ready





And In Place, AGAIN



Here's what was in the runners on the 1st 3.4

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Old 01-31-2008, 08:36 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Even though this swap has turned into a bit of a disaster... it's pretty impressive that you have already found and installed to 3.4 in less time than it takes most to just install one. Myself included.

What will you do with the "bad" 3.4? Is it worth rebuilding?
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Old 01-31-2008, 08:37 PM   #37 (permalink)
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good to hear you got the new one in already and making some really good progress on this thing. Those last two pics are UGLY! Keep up the great work. you must be a really good friend to have!
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:10 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elvota View Post
Even though this swap has turned into a bit of a disaster... it's pretty impressive that you have already found and installed to 3.4 in less time than it takes most to just install one. Myself included.

What will you do with the "bad" 3.4? Is it worth rebuilding?
Well, when we get some time, I'm gonna tear it down and see what is going on, depending on what I find, will decide it's fate.

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good to hear you got the new one in already and making some really good progress on this thing. Those last two pics are UGLY! Keep up the great work. you must be a really good friend to have!
thanks
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:19 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Exclamation Hats Off!

Jason 4x4 is the best! i don't know were I'd be with out him, (probably over at elvota's place) ha ha j/k .. hats off to my friend Jason!
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:28 PM   #40 (permalink)
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at a later date we may check the 1st engine to see if it's worth repairing i may use it in the rock buggy I'm building but for now its a paper weight. and if its no good it's a core but i still have that 3.slo sitting there i may through that in the buggy just till i blow it up.... but thats later. Elvota that lower hose part number you posted drops the neck two inches to far on mine had to find a different one at auto zone I'll post a part number later, are the radiators different? 89 4runner.
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85 Runner buggy in the works...
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:46 PM   #41 (permalink)
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89 runner on an 85 runner frame and front axle 3.5" lift suspension 31" A/T tires 1.5"wheel spacers on the front ez locker in the rear crossover high steer and oh ya 3.4L v6

85 Runner buggy in the works...

Last edited by rayl82; 02-10-2008 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:56 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Elvota that lower hose part number you posted drops the neck two inches to far on mine had to find a different one at auto zone I'll post a part number later, are the radiators different? 89 4runner.
Hmmm... I would have thought they would have been the same or at least more similiar than a 2" difference.

Guess that's an example of the blind leading the blind.... or you are just really, really unlucky.
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:15 PM   #43 (permalink)
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knock on wood through a horse shoe my way this 2nd engine beter start and run I'm running out of money
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85 Runner buggy in the works...
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:04 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Also found last night that the fuel line on a t-100 engine is about 6" longer than the fuel line on the tacoma engine.
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:19 PM   #45 (permalink)
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It's alive!!!! AGAIN.....
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:24 PM   #46 (permalink)
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it idles at about 1900 rpm though, anyone know how to reset the needle on the tach?
Apparently somehow the needle got knocked off the tach at some point, and I think that is why it doesn't work.
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:35 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Congratulations!!

I take it this motor is working much better than the last? Have you been able to drive it yet?

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it idles at about 1900 rpm though, anyone know how to reset the needle on the tach?
Apparently somehow the needle got knocked off the tach at some point, and I think that is why it doesn't work.
This may sound cheesy, but if you can get something that tells you the actual RPM's (secondary gauge, monitor OBD scanner) then run the motor until it warms up and idle is steady.

Then pop the gauge cluster out and remove the screen. Pull off the tach needle while idling and stick it back on at the correct RPM's. I did that once with my 3.0 as the needle had also fallen off on mine. I think with the 3.4 I am about 300 off, so I'll have to do my trick as well some time soon.
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:57 PM   #48 (permalink)
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I have the scanner in it, that's how I know it's at 1900, I tried moving the needle around with it running, and it doesn't do nothing.

Also keeps setting a p1300, for the ignitor, I just did the test, and it said replace the ignitor, and I did, and it set the code again. I know you had a problem with that and it was a loose wire, but it's getting chilly outside.
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:04 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Oh... I didn't mean just move the needle. Physically pull it off the pin and replace it at the correct reading. That should fix it.

My ignitor code was from a loose wire... but without that connected it wouldn't run at all. I have the FSM tests for that code. If you like, PM me a E-Mail and I can forward them to you.
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:53 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Be certain your ignitor is WELL grounded through the mounting screws. You may need to scrape some paint off of the mounting point to insure the circuit.
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