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Old 01-27-2008, 08:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rayl82's 3.4 swap/3.4 swap. New Pic Post #81

well, here's another. We are doing this at my house, so I am writing it up. Been researching for quite some time, and all the moons finally aligned(or so we thought). Got up this morning to some light sprinkle, so we got started.


Had that 3.slow out in 1 hour!!


Had to do some welding while the engine was out, and transfered the mounts and oil sender over. We got the t-belt done and the clutch on during the week.



I took the factory exhaust crossover pipe and chooped it up, and flipped it so that it comes out on the drivers side, had a total of about 2 hours into it, and $3.00. I took a ton of pictures and will do a write up on it if you all want one, I just didn't want to post pics until I knew that it fit, and we got that 3.4 set in place, and the pipe clears perfectly, and fits awesome.





Anyway, we went and got lunch, and had to go back to his house, since he didn't bring the rest of the parts over. When we got back, it was raining harder, and it never quit. got the trans all hooked up, the p/s hose, the heater hoses, those were kinda tricky with the rear heater, but I was able to use all existing hoses. Then it started getting late, and the rain wasn't gonna stop, so I came inside and started looking at wiring diagrams.

I was originally gonna re-pin the connectors for the dash harness, but the pins are different size, so I guess I am gonna have to cut and solder. that will probably take up the most time tomorrow. I am gonna go to work and see about some more wiring diagrams, the one I have shows an EGR, and the harness doesn't have any plugs for one. Also the engine came from an auto, and it has a 4 wire TPS on it, and the manual trans harness and ecu that we got is a 3 wire, so I thought, no biggie, we got a TPS for the harness, and it was a 3 wire pulled the 4 wire tps off, and we would have to change the throttle body to put the 3 wire TPS on it. So I think I am gonna just use the 3 wires that I need on the TPS, and see if I can get a wiring diagram that shows the 4 wire TPS, and find out what it is for. My diagrams that I have don't show a 4 wire, only the 3. But I was ohming both TPS, and I think the 4th wire must be some on off switch or something, because the 3 wires that match seem to both do the same thing on both of them, if that makes any sense.

So, the plan is to throw the belts on tomorrow put the radiator back in, and get the wiring done and go for a test drive.
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Old 01-27-2008, 10:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What took me 11 days sounds like you got done in an afternoon!
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Old 01-28-2008, 04:42 PM   #3 (permalink)
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well, the wiring ain't going as easy as I had hoped. got the body plug for the ecm wired, and has the power, the the tach, vss, 4wd switch, starter, obd II wire, brake light switch, and the wht/red b+ wire. which if I am reading the diagram correctly, the ecm puts out b+ on that wire. But I have no check engine light, no communication with the scanner, and no fire up, it does crank though. It is getting chilly, and dark, and my eyes are fried from looking at these diagrams all day, so I am probably gonna call it a night soon, and start fresh when I get off work tomorrow.
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Old 01-28-2008, 06:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Are you getting fuel to the engine? And are you getting spark?

I had a much easier problem to solve with mine. First time I tried to start it, nothing. After going through the wiring diagram, realized the starter relay wire was buried and not connected. Fired first time and hasn't let me down since, and I've got 26000 kms (approx 16250 miles) since August.
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:06 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Exclamation brused and bleeding!

the swap is going well except for the no start thing. the lower radiator hose doesn't fit so we will be using the Napa hoses and the 3.4 therm house the exoust is 23.750" short from connecting the cat and the battery tray needs to be built oh ya the intake mas air flow sensor needs to be incorporated in to the system this is all my job as a cant read a wiring diagram to save my life. hope to here it start tonight...... i leave that in the capable hands of jason4x4.
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:24 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Looks like you guys are getting it done. Bad luck to start this past Sunday. I have never seen it rain solid for so long here in AZ.

Nice job on the crossover re-work.

You'll have to post a writeup on that. A $3 exhaust setup on the 3.4 swap is going to be of interest to many.

I'll offer help on the wiring if what you come across rings a bell. Sounds like you have your work cut out for you with the TPS wiring and auto stuff.
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Old 01-29-2008, 05:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well, after abotu 10 minutes of looking at it, I didn't have the red/white wire on ign power, and I didn't have power on the blk/red ignitor wire, so we got it fired up, and I am gonna go tweek and tune.
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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misfires on 2, 3, and 4, going to get a compression gauge....
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Old 01-29-2008, 06:30 PM   #9 (permalink)
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also did the tach mod, here- http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/me...ms/tachmod.jpg , and the tach sits at ~ 1500 rpm with the key on and engine off, and never moves while running.

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Old 01-29-2008, 06:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
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#1- 150
#2- 0
#3- 30
#4- 0
#5- 150
#6- didn't check


Guess it's time to put the 3.0 back in...

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Old 01-29-2008, 07:06 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Man... that's bad news. Sorry to hear about your luck. Nothing worse than getting so close, then realizing you are farther than you think.

Can you tell if it's valves or rings? I know there is a test to determine, but don't know what it is. I am sure you do though.
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I rebuilt my motor before putting it in the truck. I would recomend everyone buy a rebuild kit and do it if your going to take the time to do this swap or any for that matter. Might aswell put in a like brand new motor
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Old 01-29-2008, 07:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason4X4 View Post
#1- 150
#2- 0
#3- 30
#4- 0
#5- 150
#6- didn't check


Guess it's time to put the 3.0 back in...
Have you done anything to the 5vz other than droping it in? (had the cams out or the heads off?)
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:17 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Have you done anything to the 5vz other than droping it in? (had the cams out or the heads off?)
nope, bought it off a local wheeling board, and the guy claimed it had only 19,000 on it. I knew it didn't when I saw it, but it was dropped off with rayl82. I think it actually had 190,000 on it. only thing was the t-belt, wp, and cam/crank seals. I kinda knew something was up when I got it running, it had some massive blow buy and was smoking like a hippie.
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:54 PM   #15 (permalink)
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also did the tach mod, here- http://www.trailslesstraveled.com/me...ms/tachmod.jpg , and the tach sits at ~ 1500 rpm with the key on and engine off, and never moves while running.
anyone got any ideas on the tach?

ALSO, looks like we are gonna look for another engine tomorrow, one with a warranty this time. it will be quicker than pulling the heads and sending them out.

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Old 01-29-2008, 09:16 PM   #16 (permalink)
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anyone got any ideas on the tach?
I looked at your linked pic and I am pretty sure that's what I did.

Maybe your tach signal is incorrect? Sounds like the tach is receiving a single steady feed.

Is there a way you can hook up a RPM monitor to the feed at the source... just to make sure the signal is doing what it should?

I had to run a new wire from my 3.4 to the dash tach wire. I can't remeber why though. Either the harness was missing or to short.
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Old 01-29-2008, 09:28 PM   #17 (permalink)
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the weird thing was that even if I unplugged the body harness the tach still did the same thing.
I'm thinking that something didn't do right with the solder.

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Old 01-29-2008, 09:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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the weird thing was that even if I unplugged the body harness the tach still did the same thing.
I'm thinking that something didn't do right with the solder.
Maybe your solder is covering more points than it should. Seems like the tach is getting a signal from somewhere else. Maybe double check where the tach gauge wire is going.
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Old 01-29-2008, 10:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I agree. Make sure you didn't short circuit something with a too large solder joint. Good luck. Mine worked just fine, so it sounds like you've just got a bit of a short.
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:03 PM   #20 (permalink)
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3.4 coming back out




so this is the 3rd time since he's owned it that the engine bay was empty.


here's some of the wiring




3.0 going back in































we got another 3.4 engine coming, gonna be at my work tomorrow, 81k miles, 6 month warranty.
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:11 PM   #21 (permalink)
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That really sux.

Where was the source for the next 3.4? Local?

Why put the 3.0 back in if the 3.4 is on the way?
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:30 PM   #22 (permalink)
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it isn't going back in, that was a picture from when we pulled it out. Just trying to make a funny...
The new engine is coming from greenleaf, they just couldn't deliver it today.
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Old 01-30-2008, 06:30 PM   #23 (permalink)
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well, got ahold of the guy we bought the engine from, and he is saying now that it came out of a non running truck that had a bad fuel pump, so it was never checked. he says he didn't misrepresent it, and that it does indeed only have 19k on it. he said he priced it cheap because it came out of a non running truck, woulda been nice to know then. he also said that we coulda checked it before we bought it, but why would we when it only had 19k on it, if he would of said it didn't run, we would of checked it.

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Old 01-30-2008, 07:11 PM   #24 (permalink)
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wow man that really sucks. That guy you bought it from sounds pretty shady if you ask me. Is the wiring and ECU from it at least any good? Hopefully you dont have to buy all that again.
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:15 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I dunno, it was an auto harness and ecu, so we actually got one from a manual so it doesn't set trans codes. but the harness and ecu that we got from the manual is good, since we already had it running.
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