Oregon'sLoneWolf

Really? I don't recall seeing that. I'll pull off the foam and take a peek man. Thanks

cr@ves4wheelin

You don't have to pull it off, but you'll see what mean if you feel for it. Maybe you didn't have it on while you were filming, i don't know. Just somethin that caught my attention.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Well, I got it back from the shop as they welded on my cat back and replaced the after cat bung 7 inches from the flange. Now it didn't idle. I limped it home losing power twice. I live only 4 blocks away.

So with my no idle and very choppy engine operation my first step was to re clean my MAF. NO change. I pulled some codes and had a P0120.....TPS. Replaced it, code gone still no idle. As it just seemed like it was starving for either air or fuel, it was time to check the IAC (Idle Air Control). I pulled the TB and removed the 4 screws at the bottom. THESE ARE VERY TIGHT. I suggest placing it on a table, using the correct head screwdriver, putting all of your weight on it and cranking on it to crack it loose. It all appeared very clean indeed.

Then I followed these steps to check it.

It worked fine. Then I decided to blow into the air inlet hole shown on the bottom by my finger.

It was a clogged up like an old man needing to eat prunes. NO AIR would pass!! I closed off the tube, filled with throttle body cleaner and let it sit for about an hour. Removed the tube and it cleared the clog. A few more squirts and it was clean.

It starts and says running. Idle is a bit low. Maybe 600 RPMs or so, just barely hanging on. I think my throttle stop screw is to blame as it is out too far it seems. I got it from a yard and I think someone may have messed with it....Or was it me.........I can't remember. I'll futz with it tomorrow.

My suggestion to everyone is to pull this off and just clean it. Lube up the springs and action too using PB Blaster or something. Chances are good it was never cleaned by the previous owner who had your engine. This is a common reason for rough or NO idle and poor mileage from what I have read. It just might make trouble shooting a bit easier.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Cool man. I'll look into it. I do have my PCV hooked up though. I should prob change it anyway and I'll check the hose then.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Here is an update of the codes I pulled, and how they were fixed and recap of problems.

Vehicle would NOT idle at all- Clogged IAC tube.
misfire-broken coil connector wire was arching........found this in the dark.
also, pin connector plug for ECU was damaged during the pin out process also bad connector pin on ground wire at ECU.

PO330-knock sensor- my spark plug wires had crossed when I removed the plenum to change a gasket for a vacuum leak. May not have needed changing as my PCV hose to plenum was not clamped, missed this as it was hidden behind the black thing. I'm out $70 in gaskets as I thought it was the intake and TB gasket.

P0130-P0133- 02 sensor bank 1. vacuum leak at the PCV hose to plenum was not clamped. However, the light came on after 6 min of driving Thinking it may have had a sticky exhaust valve from sitting so long, I put Marvel Mystery Oil in there, (half quart) 5 min of driving and the light went off. I struggled with this for over 2 weeks of trouble shooting. So far so good after 30 miles of driving.

P01300......Bad igniter

Only issue to deal with now is a low oil pressure. I know this is common, but below the first left mark at freeway speeds has me a little freaked OUT. When it enters closed loop it drops to that point. I'll put a pressure gauge on it tomorrow. If pressure remains low, I will go to a thicker oil. I'm running 10-40 now. Sure as hell hope I don't have bad bearings!!!!!! Perhaps the MMO will clean a possible plugged oil hole that may be causing it.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Glad your making progress.

I have manual oil pressure gauges on both my 3.4 engines.

Great Peace of mind.

Fraser

I don't trust those stock gauges one bit. I would confirm the oil pressure is actually low before you start chasing things down.

Rebel007

Great info , Thanks !! Getting ready to a 3.4 to 3.4 swap myself. Thanks again !
When I get the motor for my swap, it will be a 3.4 v6, replacing a 3.4 v6 how can I keep from having to re pin or stay away from the harness issues?
Get a motor from the same make and model donor?

poleclimber63

Not sure if I read this right, are you swapping out a 3.0L for a 3.4L swap? This will require re-pinning.... What vehicle do you have? If you have, say, a 96 3.4L 4R, and you're dropping in a 2001 3.4L, really what you're doing is a long block replacement. All 3.4L long blocks are the same. Just unplug/ remove the wiring harness from the engine and tuck it under the wipers, un-bolt the PS pump and AC and strap them to the side. Remove the rad and alt. Remove the inside fender flaps (access to the mounts). Remove the TB and exhaust pipes and pull the engine. If the engine came from a 4R, then all you need to swap are the injectors (they changed the injectors in 99)... if its from a Tacoma I'm not sure what differences there are, in my case my engine was from a Van, so I unbolted all peripheral components from my old engine and bolted them onto the replacement. Done. No wiring required.

Rebel007

I am wanting to swap a 3.4 v6 with a 3.4 v6. I have a 98 Tacoma 4x4 that has a blow head gasket. I want to try and keep it as simple as possible. As I was gathering info it sounded like I was going to run into a re-pin situation but as I am learning , if I can find a 3.4 v6 from 95 to 98 Tacoma, I should be able to do a ( for lack of a better term)" basic swap." If that's wrong please correct me and add any other info you can to clarify. I really appreciate your input. Thanks

poleclimber63

Not all that familiar with Taco's but if it had a 3.4L V6 then any 3.4L V6 will work. This equates to at least, a "long block swap", and at best, a complete swap. I did a long block swap which was quite easy... I had both engines side by side and swapped components and did maintenance work ie. TB/WP and front and rear seals, VCG's and plug tube seals etc. Worked great! Good luck!

xrhondabob

Since, I'm new to YotaTech I can't start a new thread.
I'm looking for someone who has used 28mm valve shims for sale or would like to trade for 25mm shims.


I used to road race and have many 25mm in-between size shims, such as 268, 272, 278, 282, 288, 292, 298, and the normal 5mm step-sizes. Now, I'm working on gen1 Rav4 2.0L and gen4 2.2L Camry engines.


I'm looking for (27.92mm) 28mm x 290 and 300, and of course if you have the in-between sizes, all the better.


Please contact me through this thread or text 509.4526263 in Yakima, WA.
Thanks, Bob...

Oregon'sLoneWolf

I thought it would be fitting to give everyone an update on my engine.

SO, there I was with a swapped out engine with almost new EVERYTHING from the clutch, timing belt, valve adjustment, water pump........bla bla bla. I worked out all of the codes and had it running sweet!! Took it on a road trip to Portland some 300 miles away and make it to my destination.

Life was good until the next morning. I went to the store just a mile away and.....................I noticed a little white smoke coming from my exhaust. I immediately pulled over so it wouldn't overheat...........check the radiator........it was bubbling every 3 seconds and not flowing..........checked the reserve tank............black soot looking crap. YES.........I HAD BLOWN MY HEAD GASKET!!!! I changed all gaskets but those!!

Stuck without tools or a place to work on it if I did get tools.......I took it to a shop. Two weeks later..........I"m out $1500!!! He pressure checked the heads and I didn't warp anything...

I drive it home.......pissed off and almost completely broke and it ran perfectly............................for about an effin week. It started to take a while to start... Stumbled......surged...........and dies twice on the way home from the store. Finally got it running and I noticed the bubbles again in the radiator and anti freeze dripping from the exhaust manifold..........looks like the mechanic didn't fix it and I'm possibly OUT $1500!!!!!!!!!!!!


Diagnosis.............I'm broke and in a world of HURT emotionally! So much for summer time road trip plans........... I doubt I will get a dime out of the mechanic either. I have no problems taking this guy to court if he blows me off!!!

I have no choice than to hoof it again for a few months to get the coin for some heads and some gaskets..................

This is how the last month has felt.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Hey Bob,
I don't have any shims but I did a write up called "valve adjustments for dummies" and in that it has a source on where to buy shims for cheap. I think for $14 you can find what you need. The link is on that page.


Sorry I couldn't help out.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Happy reply and end of saga.

Contacted the mechanic and he was very sorry for the trouble and messed up situation. Instead of refunding the $1500 for the work and being out $500 for the tow back to Portland, he is sending me a new remanufactured to OEM spec long block. He agreed to pay the extra money for the inconvenience and time loss without a car. Since everything on the engine, and I mean everything is new, I won't be out a dime and the engine will have a 3 year warranty.

0 miles works for me and I"m glad everything worked out.

exporunner

Glad you got it all worked out but sorry your swap didn't go as smoothly as mine ended. Let me know if you need help installing that new long block ... Redmond isn't terribly far from Redmond =P I work for beer and would be glad to help

Oregon'sLoneWolf

I can't remember, are you here in Redmond OR bro? If so, we have a deal. I'll be cruising out to Portland to get the block and to meet the builder. If you are here, then let's roll. I seem to remember you are in WA though. Yeah, I'm 45 with a memory of an 85 year old.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

If it has a blown head gasket, perhaps getting it decked and head checked might be a good thing to think about. Either that or you might be taking a risk with a yard motor with about the same miles. Head gaskets do fail so fixing the one you have might be a wise decision since you have it. If you do have a bad head on that bank, you can pick on up for about $350 which is better than taking a risk on a used yard motor IMO. If you over heated it, then yes, decking may be necessary. Keep in mind if doing so to get the correct thickness gasket or compression will be off due to the head or block being machined.
As far as repinning it, if it is an early model automatic harness (like you have), and your truck is a manual, then yes you do as the plugs are not the same. If your year truck is different then the motor then some functions might be off. For that you will need the EWDs for both engine year and your year truck and do it function by function. It looks daunting at first but when it clicks on how to read them, it is a breeze. As for the dash harness, if you aren't that skilled in wiring as I was, opt to spend $400 to have one built by ToyOnlySwaps. They do excellent work and are great to deal with.
I also suggest changing the timing belt and water pump while you are at it. Be sure to torque your crank bolt to 217lbs and consider getting a new bolt as some come loose. Use blue locktight. Red I think is overkill with that torque. I used a bolt through the flywheel to hold it as I torgued it down. Don't use a cheap bolt for this though just is case. Use a hardened one to be safe.
It really isn't that bad, just take your time and with most codes, check your wiring before you go swapping parts thinking they are bad. GL

exporunner

ya I am in WA

paynemw

dude awesome detailed work