Oil Pan Question
#21
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#22
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Anybody want a truck? I got one in my garage, it's free, come get the stupid thing! I quit... LOL
Went to drop it in yesterday. It's mated up to the trans again. Go to lower down into the frame horns, alternator hits the steering box... So, next step is to remove the alternator and see if it'll drop into place and then figure out how the hell I'm going to work out something to clear the alt. from the steering... This is absurd!
Has anyone actually done this swap on the factory 2WD 3.0 truck cause this simple swap is far from simple! I haven't even gotten the engine to bolt up yet... LOL
I messed around with it last night and I think even once I get the alt. to clear the steering box, it still looks like the motormounts are going to be too wide to slide into position....
Went to drop it in yesterday. It's mated up to the trans again. Go to lower down into the frame horns, alternator hits the steering box... So, next step is to remove the alternator and see if it'll drop into place and then figure out how the hell I'm going to work out something to clear the alt. from the steering... This is absurd!
Has anyone actually done this swap on the factory 2WD 3.0 truck cause this simple swap is far from simple! I haven't even gotten the engine to bolt up yet... LOL
I messed around with it last night and I think even once I get the alt. to clear the steering box, it still looks like the motormounts are going to be too wide to slide into position....
#23
If it makes you feel any better mine is a 2wd Pickup with a 3.0.
I got mine in the other day, motor is on the 3.0 motor mounts and sitting on its own.
Dont have the alternator in but it doesnt look like there will be a problem for me.
But like i said, now i need a custom crossmember and to drop my idler arm to sit lower to clear the 2wd T100 pan.
Youll get it. Eventually. Thats what i keep telling myself haha.
I got mine in the other day, motor is on the 3.0 motor mounts and sitting on its own.
Dont have the alternator in but it doesnt look like there will be a problem for me.
But like i said, now i need a custom crossmember and to drop my idler arm to sit lower to clear the 2wd T100 pan.
Youll get it. Eventually. Thats what i keep telling myself haha.
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I'm thinking this will be sunday afternoon's project. I'm heading out to Pahrump tonight to go pit for a 1600 car tomorrow. Then got house chores on Sunday morning, a sunday lunch date and then hopefully go cuss at my truck some more on Sunday afternoon.
Flaunt, you're not in Vegas by some random chance are you??? LOL
I'm also actually really hoping to see some yotas with the conversion at the Expo in Pamona next weekend that I can get pictures of and scope out.
I'm half tempted to yank the motor out one more time, cut the frame horns off the frame, bolt up the chromoly ESB motormounts that came with the engine and build new ones that mount the motor up a little bit higher to clear everything. I'll know if that's my future hopefully by the end of the weekend though. If I go that route I may even end up cutting out my engine cage and just go about redoing most of it as well...
Flaunt, you're not in Vegas by some random chance are you??? LOL
I'm also actually really hoping to see some yotas with the conversion at the Expo in Pamona next weekend that I can get pictures of and scope out.
I'm half tempted to yank the motor out one more time, cut the frame horns off the frame, bolt up the chromoly ESB motormounts that came with the engine and build new ones that mount the motor up a little bit higher to clear everything. I'll know if that's my future hopefully by the end of the weekend though. If I go that route I may even end up cutting out my engine cage and just go about redoing most of it as well...
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Just throwing my 2cents out here but, when I put the alt in, I to had the problem of it basically hitting my steering linkage. The body lift I put in had a little space so that helped a little, but I actually went a size down on the belt. And then cut out the adjusting area of the lower bracket to allow the alternator to come in closer to the motor. This worked great, and I haven't had any problems so far. Also I used the stock 3.0 lower bracket as well.
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Okay guys, I yanked off the alternator last night. I think getting that figured out and back in won't be too difficult when the time comes. I'm crossing my fingers at least right! LOL
So with that out of the way the motor finally dropped down to ALMOST where it's supposed to be. I'm going to have to massage my motor mounts a little bit as the ones I picked up... The hole spread front to back isn't right so... Engine is getting lifted up a bit one more time but whatever, I can deal with that. My question though, my frame seems like it's about 1/8-1/4" too narrow for it to drop into the mounts. Any suggestions how to snake this thing in there? How can I spread the frame or weasel this thing down? I have a porta power but it needs to hit the hydraulic shop for some new seals... Even if it worked, I'm not sure where I could set it up to even do what I need to. I'll let the pics explain my situation... Any advice? I'm getting closer and closer to hacking the horns off the frame and building my own mounts!!! I'm actually about one step away from that to be honest at the rate I'm going!
Pass side... One bolt slid in, and I have another smaller bolt in the other hole it's just not shown in this picture.
And here's the drvr side with some yellow arrows/lines to point out the details of my problem! Pretty self explanatory... Any suggestions?
So with that out of the way the motor finally dropped down to ALMOST where it's supposed to be. I'm going to have to massage my motor mounts a little bit as the ones I picked up... The hole spread front to back isn't right so... Engine is getting lifted up a bit one more time but whatever, I can deal with that. My question though, my frame seems like it's about 1/8-1/4" too narrow for it to drop into the mounts. Any suggestions how to snake this thing in there? How can I spread the frame or weasel this thing down? I have a porta power but it needs to hit the hydraulic shop for some new seals... Even if it worked, I'm not sure where I could set it up to even do what I need to. I'll let the pics explain my situation... Any advice? I'm getting closer and closer to hacking the horns off the frame and building my own mounts!!! I'm actually about one step away from that to be honest at the rate I'm going!
Pass side... One bolt slid in, and I have another smaller bolt in the other hole it's just not shown in this picture.
And here's the drvr side with some yellow arrows/lines to point out the details of my problem! Pretty self explanatory... Any suggestions?
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Exactly, new rubber bushings... Everything else is original 3.0 hardware. It's the 3.0 brackets with new replacement 3.0 bushings. Yes, a 3.0 came out of there originally. LOL
I'm almost to the point of cutting the horns off the frame and just building my own mounts!!! Ugh... They'll be stronger at least. I've gone thru the rubber bushing mounts pretty quick since they're not the strongest in the world.
Here's the two motors hanging out talking about chicks and stuff like that.
I'm almost to the point of cutting the horns off the frame and just building my own mounts!!! Ugh... They'll be stronger at least. I've gone thru the rubber bushing mounts pretty quick since they're not the strongest in the world.
Here's the two motors hanging out talking about chicks and stuff like that.
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So, just a little update. I haven't touched it since I made the above post but at this point. I'm going to cut the horns off the frame rails and just build new motor mounts. I'm done screwing with this thing. I'm just going to position it right where I want it and start building. Tack everything in place, yank the motor out, weld it all up, then put it back in...
On another note, I wasted $70 on new rubber motor mount bushings cause I won't be using them in my new setup...
On another note, I wasted $70 on new rubber motor mount bushings cause I won't be using them in my new setup...
#33
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I ended up putting in the 3.0 pickup, 3.0 baffle & 3.0 oil pan.
Well, last night I for sure passed the point of no return. I cut the motor mount frame horns off the frame. Ground off the frame paint. Lowered the 3.4 back into about where I want it then sat and stared at it for a bit. LOL
Tonight I'm going to work on getting the motor positioned exactly where I want it and get my templates made up for the new motor mounts I'm going to make. Hoping I can have the new ones mocked up over the next couple days and then have the motor actually bolted into place fairly soon.
Well, last night I for sure passed the point of no return. I cut the motor mount frame horns off the frame. Ground off the frame paint. Lowered the 3.4 back into about where I want it then sat and stared at it for a bit. LOL
Tonight I'm going to work on getting the motor positioned exactly where I want it and get my templates made up for the new motor mounts I'm going to make. Hoping I can have the new ones mocked up over the next couple days and then have the motor actually bolted into place fairly soon.
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This motor swap has been far from my priority and I've basically just been messing with it here and there in passing. So, anyways... I ended up cutting the frame horns off the frame and made new motor mounts. I've got the wiring all pulled out and marked and ready to go. All connections are being soldered... OBDii is spliced in and ready to go. I'm running bare minimum though as all of my gauges will be aftermarket pieces. As soon as I get the engine to fire and running right my next project will be to pull out all the A/C and Heating stuff from inside the cab on the firewall. After that I'll build a fabricated dash and install my gauges and everything back into the cab. Sometime this summer or before next winter I'll go back and install a mojave heater for winter needs.
I had to "custom" dent the headers to clear my steering shaft on the drivers side and the frame rail on the pass side.
Anyways, here's the latest pic of the install...
I had to "custom" dent the headers to clear my steering shaft on the drivers side and the frame rail on the pass side.
Anyways, here's the latest pic of the install...
#35
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So i just finally went to drop in my 3.4 5 speed w/2wd t100 oil pan into my 2wd 4cyl truck and was totally bummed when it seemed to not fit! I searched and searched through endless 4x4 swaps for info on a 2wd swap and stumbled onto this tread. Funny thing is all of the people chiming in with similar problems are building prerunners and members of dezertrangers.com like myself! Looks like I need to track down a oil pan, pickup, baffle and dipstick from a 2wd 3.0 V6 damn it. Also the R150 trans has 3 mounting points on each side where the rubber trans mount has two, does it mount reaward or forward? Thanks!
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