sirhk100

I "thought" for a straight 3.0 to 3.4 swap you needed the T100 oil pan and pickup tube. I was sold an engine that I believe was out of a T100 so this should've obviously already been on there and dealt with...

I went to lower it in last night and the oil pan is resting on my steering arm before the motor mounts are lined up... I'm using the 3.0 motor brackets and brand new 3.0 motor mounts by the way...

Here's a picture of the pan and my steering, yes my steering is a little more "solid" then factory but I can't imagine it's big enough to make a difference interference wise.





My stock 3.0 pan is VERY thin in that area compared to the 3.4. Does anyone know if that pan will fit? Do I need to swap the oil pickup also if it does?



For everyone saying this is a straight easy swap mine is kicking my ass so far... LOL

hamish_18

was this out of a 2WD t100? Because I think that is the pan that you need. Just swap out your old 3.0 pickup and pan.. If it fit before, it should fit now.

sirhk100

I double checked, it was out of a 2wd T100 so not sure what's going on. My oil pan on the 3.0 is definitely lower profile though and will allow more clearance. It all fit before for sure with the 3.0. LOL

I've got a feeling half my engine bay is going to end up getting cut out and redone before this is finished! LOL Ugh!!! Why am I doing this again???

What's with the splash guard or baffle looking piece that I see people cutting holes in as well when they do the oil pan swap?

Basically in the picture below, what's the hole cut in it for? Is it where the 3.0 pickup needs to come thru or what?

UKrunner

Swap the baffle plate, pick up tube and oil pan from your 3.0. Buy Toyota form in place gasket goo to seal it up when bolting the oil pan on.

sirhk100

I guess I know what I'm doing on Sat now. Ugh, sounds like a mess!!! I'm hoping I can get lucky enough to be able to do it without pulling the engine out again, possibly just hoist it up and unbolt it right there in the truck. Hmmm...

Since everyone likes pictures, here's my hooptie...

yodathespian87

Hate to be the bad news bear but yes you will have to un-bolt the engine mounts and jack up the engine. Cause the front differential is in the way. In the picture of my oil pickup tube and splash guard the reason I cut it is for the bolt to hold the pickup tube. You may have to yank the engine to install this stuff. But seeing as your engine bay has been altered I can't say for certain. Does your engine sit in there currently?

flaunt

mannn im curious to.
i have a total chaos type centerlink and i have the same pan.

i agree with you because i thought the same thing that the front portion of the pan from the 3.0 is very thin compared to the t100 2wd 3.4 pan.

did you get it to fit right?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

is this ifs? if so, go with the 3.0 pan. If you're solid axle then go with the 2wd pan.

sirhk100

I haven't tried it yet... This will be tomorrow's (sat) project. I'll post on Monday either some pictures or more questions when I'm completely frustrated and probably pissed off!!! LOL, I generally consider myself pretty mechanically inclined, I've built this entire truck from scratch and it's far from my first build. Just my first motor swap though and I was sold on this being super straight forward. I'm a little nervous about the wiring issues but I believe the wiring is already plug and play with my setup as this 3.4 was already in a older pickup previous.

It is 2wd, IFS, so no diff to worry about.

Mine is the total chaos centerlink as well... Flaunt, are you on any other forums? This is Dan Vance's last 3.4 race motor if you know who that is... Came with spare starters, alternators, power steering pumps, etc...

I only have two bolts mating it to the trans at this point so it should be quick and easy to lift it back out. Just more "fun" I suppose... LOL

The engine is currently in the engine bay but it's still sitting about an inch too high to let the motor mounts mate up because the oil pan is hitting my centerlink instead...

I'm already bummed cause I had to cut out a pretty critical tube in my engine cage to support my upper shock mount on the driver side. I'm stumped how I'm going to get around that but I'll figure something out.




LOL, who needs 4wd and solid axles to flex??? Just kidding, there's no coils installed here...

hamish_18

at any rate, I love the look of the long travel IFS setups. Wish I could afford something like that!

dntsdad

I think that you can change that out without lifting the motor out. I changed rod bearing through the bottom once on the 3.0. You will have to drop the relay rod out of the way and the steering stabilizer but it can be done. Just depends on what it easier for you. Motor up, or relay rod, etc.

flaunt

Yeah I'm on dezert rangers to.
You bought that motor out of AZ right?

I seen it for sale awhile back.

Well I started to put mine in today and wasn't successful, I couldn't get the motor to mate up to the tranny..

now I'm stuck at that til tommorow..ended up taking my centerlink and crossmember to make it easier and I have no idea if they clear the pan yet haha.. until tommorow.

sirhk100

Well, Sat was a cluster for non truck related reasons and I wanted to visit an aunt in a spinal rehab facility out in Cali yesterday and I live in Vegas so that killed all of my sunday driving... That said, I did learn on Sat that...

The 3.4L splash will not work with my 3.0 pan:
Essentially first I cut the 3.4 splash guard and bolted it up, then bolted up my 3.0 oil pickup tube thru the splash guard, and then tried the pan... The shallow front part of my 3.0 pan hit the 3.4 splash guard because it was sticking down to low. So I stuck the 3.0 splash in, bolted up the 3.0 oil pickup and the 3.0 oil pan. Everything went in fine... I did cut off the legs from the 3.0 oil pickup tube closest to the pickup end cause there was no provision on the 3.4 to bolt it to.

At this point the motor "should" bolt in!!! I hope at least... LOL I'm "assuming" the motormounts are in the same location on the block of the 3.4 as they are the 3.0 and now with my old pan on I should have clearance at the bottom that I need!!!

My concern though now is that the 3.0 splash shield doesnt sit as low as the 3.4. I'm praying that when the engine turns over the rod caps don't swing around and contact it. I'm sure they'll move anything they contact and do minor damage at most but still... LOL




Other comments...

Flaunt, yes, this was the motor out of Bullhead City. I guess it's got one race on it since it was in Vances truck. The oil was clean when I drained it and the motor looks to be in great shape in general.

What motor/trans combo are you doing? Mine mated right up to my manual trans...


DNTSDAD,

Mine wouldn't come out. My subframe under the truck isn't "standard" lets say so dropping the pan without lifting the motor out was not an option. At this point I'm just hoping that I got the pan good and sealed cause pulling it in the future won't be really easy when step 1 is remove engine! LOL


If I end up with monday night football plans tonight then I'll try dropping it in tomorrow or Wed evening. If tonights plans don't go thru (phone doesn't ring) I may give it a shot tonight by myself. I got it mated up to the trans the first time solo so I'm sure I can do it again...

Khris

flaunt

doin a 01' 3.4 Auto to a 94' 3.0 Auto. See how it goes.

No luck of getting the motor bolted up to the tranny tho..damn cage and upper arm mounts.

flaunt

dont mean to thread jack.

but im running the t100 2wd oil pan on my swap and the cross member and my center link both hit the pan?..

i know people swap over the 3.0 pan but when i tried to do that the bolts didn't line up the same on the 3.4 and the 3.0 pan was like a 1/4" longer?.. the 3.0 pan isn't as bulky..and i know plenty of people did the 3.0 pan to 3.4 but why was mine longer?

sirhk100

No worries on going off a bit on the thread...

I had to cut one tube out on my engine cage to get mine to mate up with the trans and it sucks cause I need that tube in there. I've got to figure out how to put a replacement back in eventually.

No clue on your oil pan, mine matched up just fine... Mine was the same way though, 3.4 pan hit the steering centerlink and was about 1/8" from the suspension crossmember at the rear, not the factory one but one for my suspension cradle. Kinda like what total chaos uses on their kits.

flaunt

I don't know why my 3.0 pan doesn't line up correct, I hear people say to use the T100 2wd oil pan and that's why I switched, my 3.0 pan was from a 94 2wd . And like yourself and other the 3.0 pan fit just fine?..so confused.

sirhk100

I'm convinced my motor is going to drop in place at this point tomorrow night assuming the motor mounts are truely in the same position on the block on both the 3.0 and 3.4. I didn't get a chance to last night, monday night football at hooters had a better ring to it.

My concern now though is with the rods coming around and interfering with the 3.0 splash guard that I swapped into the 3.4. It doesn't allow as much clearance. I guess it'll be obvious right off the bat though. LOL at least it's just sheet metal and will probably clearance itself!!! HAHA

hamish_18

hmm since the blocks are essentially the exact same, I am not sure how your 3.0 pan is longer than the 3.4... Its wasn't turned around backwards was it? rear main seal is still on the 3.4 right? I would imagine the oil pump is on it, since that is wider than a 1/4 inch.

weird though.

flaunt

Nah it was on right, I matched it up to the T100 pan and the T100 was a little shorter to.

I'm prolly going to have to build my idler arm to drop a little farther down so the centerlink won't hit it and I need now a custom crossmember for the front lower stock pivots.

I've seen plenty of people do this swap with what seems like no problems, I've yet to find anything work out haha.