pineymudder

Ok guys here's the story. 91 ext cab 5 speed swap with 96 auto 4runner. Swap has been done for over 2 years and easy 30,000 miles. Truck has been just fantastic, i love it!! At first, once and a while it cranked long till it started. (10 15 seconds) eventualy it took long to crank everytime, but ALWAYS started.( 2 weeks) then cel finaly gave me crank sensor. That could cause my problem. It ohms out ok, but i replace it any way. Still no start. I replaced fuel filter and plugs (ngk 3967) just because i already had them. No dice. So i pulled ecu out of kick panel... everything looks ok. I did the wiring and made a plug in harness from 3.0 harness and 3.4 body connectors. Everything is soldered and shrink tube. Im an electrician for a living so i know i did good job. I cant test the igniter so i got one from a crashed 4runner at junkyard. Still nothing. I am still getting crank sensor code so i ohmed the wires at the computer connector to crank sensor and fine. Ohms dont even flicker when i wiggle the wire. I hate to buy another auto ecu, but if i re pin for a manual ecu and it has no spark i just threw in a whole lot of new variables.
Sorry for such a long post but i checked everywere and read everything i could find.
I just ordered the fsm on ebay for $85. I need cam sensor values or test procedure. And i can run through the ignition troubleshooting flow chart.
Anybody have any ideas? I also put battery tender on it for 24 hours, still no spark. ( batt not old or cheap, just trying anything) truck has been down 2 weeks and im forced to drive my fox body stang.

pineymudder

One thing i did foget to mention...while putting it together there is a little black square that bolts to the fender for ground and has 2 wires on it. 1 wire broke off flush to this thing. So i cut the other off and twist the together and crimp a ring terminal on so i can bolt it to my fender. When i finaly go to start my new swap i get nothing. Blown fusible link at under hood. After i research my tis notes i see its a filter on my 12+. So now i just have those wires capped off doing nothing. How important is that filter? Can it cause ecu to crap out? Is there a way to check ig signal from ecu?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Is your crankshaft pulley tight? (217 lb/ft) Does it visibly wobble at all at idle?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Cam sensor won't keep it from starting. In fact it'll run somewhat without the cam sensor. Also what is the exact code you are getting?

pineymudder

Pulled the ecu out to open cover just to look. So i re-connected it and tried to start. Still nothing. But here are the codes
P0100 maf or vaf circuit malfunction
P0335 crank sensor circuit. malfunction
P0758 shift solenoid
P0773 shift solenoid
P1300 manufacturer controlled ignition system or missfire
That p1300 is a new one.

pineymudder

I got my factory service manual. Did the ignition test procedures, wich led me to ign signal to igniter. If its between 4.5 and 5.5v, replace igniter. So i guess my junkyard igniter was bad afterall. We will see when i try another igniter. Ebay? Stealership? Rock auto? Junkyard? (Again)

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

What about this?

Seriously doubt either ignitor was bad. They're rock solid.

edit: i see you've already replace crank sensor.

Fraser

What about the maf? The ecu needs to see airflow to run the fuel pump through the COR. I could see if it totally crapped out it would prevent starting.

pineymudder

I did not confirm 217 ft lbs, but the crank bolt is tight. I put 19mm socket on there and spun it as best i could. (No movement) Even if the maf was totaly shot i should still get spark. I can smell fuel when i crank it for a while, so i believe cor is functioning.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

You won't be able to turn it to 30lb/ft without holding the crank. If the crank pulley is flush with the other pulleys (eyeball it) then you're ok. Mine had come out about 1/4" or more and crank sensor wasn't reading the crank gear anymore.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Have you tested fuel pressure? Also maybe check for 12v at ECU on the B+ and BATT terminals on your ECU. '97 was on plug e8 2 and 12, auto ecu was plug e12 position 22 and 14. Not sure about '96. Double check your grounds. From batt to inner fender. Batt to block. Rear passenger side cylinder head to upper rear firewall and a group of grounds by the under hood by the diagnostic port on driver side intake plenum.

pineymudder

Well i thought i was onto something with b+. I wasnt getting 12v at igniter. Seemed like relay in fuse box under hood wasnt conducting good also it was hot to the touch. Still no spark. I hate to buy ecm but i checked and replaced everything in ignition system. Anybody have an ecm 96-02?

sphealy

iTrader: (1)

I would not suspect the ECU/ECM ref your comment about it taking longer to start over time. I would look for items that wear over time and could have failed for good thus causing the no start. Typically ECU/ECM are good or bad. Also I'm not sure if you have the wiring manual or repair manual. You can get both from https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo...pmanager/t3/ti
for 15 bucks for 3 days. You can download all the info you want need to keep for both the 91 and the 96.

pineymudder

well still cannot figure it out... obd2 reader comes up crank sensor. ive checked the wiring from sensor to ecu it good even when wiggled. ive replaced the sensor even though the old and new one ohm out the same even when they trigger with metal in front of them. ive pulled the balancer to inspect the "tone ring" it looked great. if I hold on the starter for like 40-60 seconds it will start and drive great. but if I shut it off, even for 30 seconds, I have to crank long all over again hopeing it starts. ill tell u what.. those oem 3.4 starter are heavy duty. I probably cranked 10 years of starting in the past 3 months. I do have the 96 runner fsm and have done and tested every ignition and diagnostic test that's in there. ive also replaced the ecu too.

sphealy

iTrader: (1)

You might want to goofle extended crank for toyota fix. I remember when I worked at a dealership a few years ago they were having an issue with similar symptoms with some of the corollas around 2006 or 2007. I dont know if they ever narrowed down the exact component causing the problem. I do remember they were changing the fuel pump and a few other things all at once to shotgun trouble shoot it.

sphealy

iTrader: (1)

Were you able to track down the problem/fix it?

pineymudder

No..... still has long crank. Ive looked at every long crank thread for all yota's not just 3.4 powered ones. Most were fuel related. Mine is deff spark related. Only things i havent replaced in the ignition system is the wire harness or cam sensor. They look and/or measure good. But so did all of the rest of the parts i shotgun replaced. Truck has brand new bf goodrich km2 33x12.50. And it just sits in my driveway frustrating me. I only drive it if i have too.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Is this what you're calling the tone ring?


And is it in the correct position behind the crank gear?

pineymudder

Yes that is the gear the crank sensor see's. And no i didnt pull it off, just pulled the ballancer and plastic cover to make sure it wasnt damadged. Im out of ideas what could be causing this long crank time problem.

pineymudder

Once the truck finaly starts, it runs great. Idles smooth and accelerates like this old truck never has. I just dont get it? Thanks for any ideas it might be. I still want to fix it.