My truck had a heart transplant - Page 4

cadman · 06-08-2008, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Nice "T" in the heater hose, great for burping air. Yeah I though my old 3.0 t-stat cover was aluminum but the used one I found was plastic.

Great pics!

I found a pic of my old 3.0, it was a plastic t-stat cover:

I'm going to try and recondition the fitting, these things are expensive. Tacomas and 3.4 4Runners with rear heat had these in both heater hoses.

Part number 87265-35340 (fitting only)

Part number 87265-89110 (fitting only)

The inlet on my wife's '91 4Runner is aluminum, so it looks like it went plastic sometime between '91 and your '93. As long as it doesn't leak, especially when I start going back out to the desert, I'll be happy.

The air burping function sounds like a good idea. I think I'll cut the long hose coming from the water valve and move the "T" there. It probably won't work as well in it's current location since it isn't the highest point in the system.

Looking at the Toyota EPC, it looks like the hose that runs from the heater to the manifold on either a Tacoma and 3.4 4Runner (with no-rear interior heater) will work with the swap. The two hoses look nearly identical, but have different part numbers. I'll try the Tacoma hose and eliminate the splice here.

mt_goat · 06-08-2008, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadman

The air burping function sounds like a good idea. I think I'll cut the long hose coming from the water valve and move the "T" there. It probably won't work as well in it's current location since it isn't the highest point in the system.

Yeah, that's where I want one too. Those "T"s look great, I didn't notice any on my Tacoma donor truck. I want one!

cadman · 06-08-2008, 07:02 PM

To secure the harness, I used the bracket that was on the 3.4 harness. I cut the tab off of the side, cut the length of the hanger section in half and enlarged the mounting hole. I have it inverted from it's normal position and used one of the large cable clamps in the ORS kit.

The three screws are for the bracket that secured the 3.0 evap cannister.

The harness is completely off of the sheet metal and only makes some contact with the brace I made for the fuel line.

cadman · 06-08-2008, 07:12 PM

The igniter bracket fit right over two existing holes, one with a nut welded on the other side. This needs to be well grounded, so I sanded paint from the bracket and fender at both holes, and spread a little dialectric grease between the bracket and fender. A check with the voltmeter says everything is ok.

cadman · 06-08-2008, 07:40 PM

I didn't put the starter on the engine when it was installed and now was the time. I had a hell of a time trying to replace the starter on the 3.0 some years back and wound up having the dealer do it. With all the space the 3.4 has, I just slipped in in through the wheel well and had it in place in less than three minutes. I have a 1" body lift, so without it I probably couldn't go in this way. Even so, coming in from under the truck would still be a piece of cake.

While the starter was out I replaced both contacts, the two o-rings on the motor, sanded the corrosion and pitting from the contact portion of the plunger, and re-greased the gears and bearing. Only one bearing is double sealed. Plus I had to replace the two screws on the bottom of the motor. The heads are like butter and I wound up using a chisel and impact driver to get them out.

cadman · 06-09-2008, 09:25 PM

I need to dogleg the transfer case shift lever. I have a single case, so this is less complicated than a dual case setup. Marlin Crawler does this for $100, you provide the lever.

I can't weld, at least not yet, so this is another job for my jig welding co-worker.

With the lever in 2H, here is where it sits.

With the lever removed. The black line is for reference. With the shifter assembly in place, this is close to where the boot opening is.

With the boot on the lever, the vertical alignment of the rivet nuts on the subplate and the holes on the boot is almost spot on.

Checking the distance between holes I get 2.600".

I'll put the lever on the mill at work to cut some reference lines, then cut an extension from steel bar and get it tig welded. Hopefully I can get this done by the weekend.

mt_goat · 06-11-2008, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadman

I need to dogleg the transfer case shift lever. I have a single case, so this is less complicated than a dual case setup. Marlin Crawler does this for $100, you provide the lever.

I can't weld, at least not yet, so this is another job for my jig welding co-worker.

In case you missed it, my dogleg shifter pics:

http://www.yotatech.com/1001175-post195.html

cadman · 06-13-2008, 10:50 PM

I have the tranny cooler hoses routed from the tranny to the radiator to the IPT cooler and back to the tranny. At the rub areas I sleeved the hoses with flat braid, expandable nylon mesh sleeving that has a temperature range of -49 F to +302 F. I used this type of sleeving to prevent any rubbing and abrasion, and want heat to dissipate from the hose, not trap it, so no convoluted sleeve or foam tubing. Now I can finally fill the tranny with ATF. I also picked up some different self fusing tape than I normally use to wrap the ends of the sleeves. This tape is thinner and easier to work with. In the pictures it is the tape with the blue line running around it.

PN 7643A281 - self fusing tape
PN 9337K6 - sleeving

www.mcmaster.com

cadman · 06-14-2008, 08:07 PM

Might as well replace some of the old rotten stuff you find under the hood of a 19 year old truck.

These don't seal that good any more. They need to be replaced:

with these:

PN 53414-89103, $5.10 each. Cheap fix.

cadman · 06-14-2008, 08:41 PM

The heater hose for a Tacoma with no rear heat came in. I was hoping it would be shorter than the 4Runner hose, but it was tha same size.

Without the T fitting it could be forced to fit since it is a lot more flexible, but it would be stressed quite a lot and potentially fail, most likely while in Death Valley. Reliability is the name of the game here. So I cut it and spliced it with the T section. I wound up cutting almost 1 7/8" from the hose and now it fits like it should. I also cut the other heater hose and installed the other T fitting in place. These should make burping air from the coolant system easy to do.

I ordered the permanent, wind-up, cotter pin type of clamps for my donor 4Runner heater hoses but received the spring type instead. Correct part numbers, but different clamps. I'd rather have the wind-up type for the splices, so I'll get some of those but for the 3.0 hose. I know those are correct since I bought some recently.

I should also add that the idea for burping the system with a fitting came from Dale (mt_goat)

cadman · 06-14-2008, 09:05 PM

The 3.0 coolant inlet and hose is a near perfect fit with the 3.4 in my truck. The hose does rub against the alternator bracket, but it is somewhat minor. I cut an additional 3/4" from the radiator end of the hose and now it is just a minor touch against the bracket. I put a few strips of PTFE tape at the contact area of the hose and also wrapped the bracket.

cadman · 06-15-2008, 12:45 PM

After connecting the heater hoses, I started filling the truck with fluids. I have to be extremely vigilante about finding any indication of leaks since I rebuilt the engine and replaced seals & filter in the transmission.

First was the coolant. I used the Toyota Super Long Life premixed stuff and slowly filled the radiator, checking for coolant anywhere around the engine.
With two gallons in, there are no leaks. The radiator is not full yet and I have to get more coolant. The system won't be burped and completely filled until the engine is running. A day later and still no leaks.

I pulled one of the tranny cooler hoses from the radiator and there is no coolant, so that is good. The radiator is new, and although leaks are possible from even a new radiator, the percentage of that is probably very low. I've never had a problem with new radiators.

The PS pump is filled but also needs the engine running to bleed the steering box and correct the fluid level.

The transmission has a gallon of ATF and the level gauge shows it high. Obviously a completely drained tranny and torque converter hold more, but like everything else, the engine needs to be running to get correct fluid readings, so for now I'm set. From here on out I can monitor for leaks while I finish up the swap.

As far as major things left to do, in no particular order:

1. Finish hooking up wiring.
2. Mount the airbox.
3. Mount the evap cannister.
4. Get the exhaust system built.
5. Finish the transfercase shifter mod.
6. Build cross member.
7. Front drive shaft mod.

The cross member and front drive shaft can be done after the swap is complete. The my co-worker did the initial welding on the transfercase lever, but will be taking off for vacation and I still need to machine a part for it, so that will be delayed for a week.

cadman · 06-16-2008, 08:17 PM

There are four connectors from the 3.4 harness that are now unused. I wrapped them with self fusing tape and zip tied them to the top of the tranny. I don't know if I'll ever use them, but it doesn't hurt to leave them on, just in case. I also removed those plastic clips. I have all of the mounting brackets from the tranny and the 3.4 transfercase and they can be useful in some other spot.

While under the truck, I noticed a little gear oil had wicked through the gasket between the adapter plate and transfercase, near the very bottom screw, and the cover behind the output flange for the front drive shaft. I only put sealer on one side of the adapter plate gasket, the side that now weeps, and I didn't put any on the cover behind the flange. The lesson? put sealer on both sides of all gaskets on the transfer case. I'll get a couple new gaskets from Toyota and take care of this before it becomes a bigger problem.

cadman · 06-18-2008, 10:13 PM

The alternator connector and terminal repair kit finally came in.

Connector - pn 90980-10941
Terminal repair - pn 82998-12430

The alternator is now all hooked up to the 3.4 & 3.0 harness.

The small cable is the starter trigger wire from the ORS harness. The cable above it is the 3.0 harness that used to hook up directly to the alternator and oil level gauge. The cable on the lower left is the new 3.4 alternator connector, formerly the 3.0 round alternator connector. The cable above it was the 3.0 alternator cable.

cadman · 06-29-2008, 11:17 AM

About a week ago I noticed some a small leak coming from the idle up valve on the PS pressure line. I got a wrench and put a little pressure to loosen it to see if it was tight or not and it turned easy, so it was loose. Before I tighten it, I want to make sure everything is clean and in good condition, so I drained the reservoir and removed the valve.

I was a bit surprised to find there was no seal of any kind between the valve and fitting. The 3.0 pump has brass or bronze cones where the pressure line and idle up valve screw into the pump body and I fully expected the same on the 3.4 pump. The FSM and EPC shows nothing between the 3.4 valve and hose fitting and a trip to the dealer also came up empty. The 3.0 & 3.4 valves have the same threaded body and taper, the only difference is the 3.0 body has threads the entire length and the 3.4 is shy about 3 threads. I also found the cone from the 3.0 pump body fits in the 3.4 hose fitting, so I took that cone and pressed it in the 3.4 hose and hooked everything back up.

cadman · 06-29-2008, 11:46 AM

The ORS harness has a wire with a fuse holder that runs from the passenger side of the cab to the battery. There is a grommet on the firewall near the steering shaft that I was going to run it through, but instead I ran it along the 3.0 harness that routes under the left fender and into the engine comparment.

This is above the driver side fuse box. A little dialectric grease and wire to fish it through, the ORS wire passes through the grommet cleanly.

Here is where it exits in the wheel well.

Several wraps of self fusing tape and some black silicone RTV to seal the harness.

The wire exits near the battery location.

06-08-2008, 07:02 PM	#78 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	Engine Harness Bracket To secure the harness, I used the bracket that was on the 3.4 harness. I cut the tab off of the side, cut the length of the hanger section in half and enlarged the mounting hole. I have it inverted from it's normal position and used one of the large cable clamps in the ORS kit. The three screws are for the bracket that secured the 3.0 evap cannister. The harness is completely off of the sheet metal and only makes some contact with the brace I made for the fuel line. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension Last edited by cadman : 06-08-2008 at 07:13 PM. Reason: grammar

06-08-2008, 07:12 PM	#79 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	Igniter The igniter bracket fit right over two existing holes, one with a nut welded on the other side. This needs to be well grounded, so I sanded paint from the bracket and fender at both holes, and spread a little dialectric grease between the bracket and fender. A check with the voltmeter says everything is ok. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-08-2008, 07:40 PM	#80 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	Starter I didn't put the starter on the engine when it was installed and now was the time. I had a hell of a time trying to replace the starter on the 3.0 some years back and wound up having the dealer do it. With all the space the 3.4 has, I just slipped in in through the wheel well and had it in place in less than three minutes. I have a 1" body lift, so without it I probably couldn't go in this way. Even so, coming in from under the truck would still be a piece of cake. While the starter was out I replaced both contacts, the two o-rings on the motor, sanded the corrosion and pitting from the contact portion of the plunger, and re-greased the gears and bearing. Only one bearing is double sealed. Plus I had to replace the two screws on the bottom of the motor. The heads are like butter and I wound up using a chisel and impact driver to get them out. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-09-2008, 09:25 PM	#81 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	Transfer case Shifter I need to dogleg the transfer case shift lever. I have a single case, so this is less complicated than a dual case setup. Marlin Crawler does this for $100, you provide the lever. I can't weld, at least not yet, so this is another job for my jig welding co-worker. With the lever in 2H, here is where it sits. With the lever removed. The black line is for reference. With the shifter assembly in place, this is close to where the boot opening is. With the boot on the lever, the vertical alignment of the rivet nuts on the subplate and the holes on the boot is almost spot on. Checking the distance between holes I get 2.600". I'll put the lever on the mill at work to cut some reference lines, then cut an extension from steel bar and get it tig welded. Hopefully I can get this done by the weekend. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-13-2008, 10:50 PM	#83 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	Transmission cooler hose I have the tranny cooler hoses routed from the tranny to the radiator to the IPT cooler and back to the tranny. At the rub areas I sleeved the hoses with flat braid, expandable nylon mesh sleeving that has a temperature range of -49 F to +302 F. I used this type of sleeving to prevent any rubbing and abrasion, and want heat to dissipate from the hose, not trap it, so no convoluted sleeve or foam tubing. Now I can finally fill the tranny with ATF. I also picked up some different self fusing tape than I normally use to wrap the ends of the sleeves. This tape is thinner and easier to work with. In the pictures it is the tape with the blue line running around it. PN 7643A281 - self fusing tape PN 9337K6 - sleeving www.mcmaster.com __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-14-2008, 08:07 PM	#84 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	misc Might as well replace some of the old rotten stuff you find under the hood of a 19 year old truck. These don't seal that good any more. They need to be replaced: with these: PN 53414-89103, $5.10 each. Cheap fix. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-14-2008, 08:41 PM	#85 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	Heater Hose The heater hose for a Tacoma with no rear heat came in. I was hoping it would be shorter than the 4Runner hose, but it was tha same size. Without the T fitting it could be forced to fit since it is a lot more flexible, but it would be stressed quite a lot and potentially fail, most likely while in Death Valley. Reliability is the name of the game here. So I cut it and spliced it with the T section. I wound up cutting almost 1 7/8" from the hose and now it fits like it should. I also cut the other heater hose and installed the other T fitting in place. These should make burping air from the coolant system easy to do. I ordered the permanent, wind-up, cotter pin type of clamps for my donor 4Runner heater hoses but received the spring type instead. Correct part numbers, but different clamps. I'd rather have the wind-up type for the splices, so I'll get some of those but for the 3.0 hose. I know those are correct since I bought some recently. I should also add that the idea for burping the system with a fitting came from Dale (mt_goat) __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension Last edited by cadman : 06-15-2008 at 11:00 AM. Reason: additional info

06-14-2008, 09:05 PM	#86 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	3.0 inlet hose The 3.0 coolant inlet and hose is a near perfect fit with the 3.4 in my truck. The hose does rub against the alternator bracket, but it is somewhat minor. I cut an additional 3/4" from the radiator end of the hose and now it is just a minor touch against the bracket. I put a few strips of PTFE tape at the contact area of the hose and also wrapped the bracket. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-15-2008, 12:45 PM	#87 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	After connecting the heater hoses, I started filling the truck with fluids. I have to be extremely vigilante about finding any indication of leaks since I rebuilt the engine and replaced seals & filter in the transmission. First was the coolant. I used the Toyota Super Long Life premixed stuff and slowly filled the radiator, checking for coolant anywhere around the engine. With two gallons in, there are no leaks. The radiator is not full yet and I have to get more coolant. The system won't be burped and completely filled until the engine is running. A day later and still no leaks. I pulled one of the tranny cooler hoses from the radiator and there is no coolant, so that is good. The radiator is new, and although leaks are possible from even a new radiator, the percentage of that is probably very low. I've never had a problem with new radiators. The PS pump is filled but also needs the engine running to bleed the steering box and correct the fluid level. The transmission has a gallon of ATF and the level gauge shows it high. Obviously a completely drained tranny and torque converter hold more, but like everything else, the engine needs to be running to get correct fluid readings, so for now I'm set. From here on out I can monitor for leaks while I finish up the swap. As far as major things left to do, in no particular order: 1. Finish hooking up wiring. 2. Mount the airbox. 3. Mount the evap cannister. 4. Get the exhaust system built. 5. Finish the transfercase shifter mod. 6. Build cross member. 7. Front drive shaft mod. The cross member and front drive shaft can be done after the swap is complete. The my co-worker did the initial welding on the transfercase lever, but will be taking off for vacation and I still need to machine a part for it, so that will be delayed for a week. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-16-2008, 08:17 PM	#88 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	There are four connectors from the 3.4 harness that are now unused. I wrapped them with self fusing tape and zip tied them to the top of the tranny. I don't know if I'll ever use them, but it doesn't hurt to leave them on, just in case. I also removed those plastic clips. I have all of the mounting brackets from the tranny and the 3.4 transfercase and they can be useful in some other spot. While under the truck, I noticed a little gear oil had wicked through the gasket between the adapter plate and transfercase, near the very bottom screw, and the cover behind the output flange for the front drive shaft. I only put sealer on one side of the adapter plate gasket, the side that now weeps, and I didn't put any on the cover behind the flange. The lesson? put sealer on both sides of all gaskets on the transfer case. I'll get a couple new gaskets from Toyota and take care of this before it becomes a bigger problem. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-18-2008, 10:13 PM	#89 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	alternator connector The alternator connector and terminal repair kit finally came in. Connector - pn 90980-10941 Terminal repair - pn 82998-12430 The alternator is now all hooked up to the 3.4 & 3.0 harness. The small cable is the starter trigger wire from the ORS harness. The cable above it is the 3.0 harness that used to hook up directly to the alternator and oil level gauge. The cable on the lower left is the new 3.4 alternator connector, formerly the 3.0 round alternator connector. The cable above it was the 3.0 alternator cable. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-29-2008, 11:17 AM	#90 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	PS line About a week ago I noticed some a small leak coming from the idle up valve on the PS pressure line. I got a wrench and put a little pressure to loosen it to see if it was tight or not and it turned easy, so it was loose. Before I tighten it, I want to make sure everything is clean and in good condition, so I drained the reservoir and removed the valve. I was a bit surprised to find there was no seal of any kind between the valve and fitting. The 3.0 pump has brass or bronze cones where the pressure line and idle up valve screw into the pump body and I fully expected the same on the 3.4 pump. The FSM and EPC shows nothing between the 3.4 valve and hose fitting and a trip to the dealer also came up empty. The 3.0 & 3.4 valves have the same threaded body and taper, the only difference is the 3.0 body has threads the entire length and the 3.4 is shy about 3 threads. I also found the cone from the 3.0 pump body fits in the 3.4 hose fitting, so I took that cone and pressed it in the 3.4 hose and hooked everything back up. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

06-29-2008, 11:46 AM	#91 (permalink)
cadman Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Orange County, SoCal Posts: 271	ORS wiring The ORS harness has a wire with a fuse holder that runs from the passenger side of the cab to the battery. There is a grommet on the firewall near the steering shaft that I was going to run it through, but instead I ran it along the 3.0 harness that routes under the left fender and into the engine comparment. This is above the driver side fuse box. A little dialectric grease and wire to fish it through, the ORS wire passes through the grommet cleanly. Here is where it exits in the wheel well. Several wraps of self fusing tape and some black silicone RTV to seal the harness. The wire exits near the battery location. __________________ "If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab 3.4L V6 A340F auto, '85 4Runner gear driven transfer case Alpine CDA 9857 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear Next projects (in no particular order): TRD SC trail armor, bumpers LT suspension

07-01-2008, 09:00 PM	#92 (permalink)