davis10

So I have the motor and transmission in and pretty much everything bolted up, but have a few questions. The swap is into a 94 4runner that was auto. I swapped in a MT from a 2nd gen and the motor is from a 97 manual 4runner. Everything is pretty much done except for the wiring, evap, battery, starter, fuel lines, and radiator.

1. For A/C is it easier to use the 3.4L or 3.0L cruise controller. The plug is different on the 3.4 one, and I heard that I would need to get the AMP too. What have you guys done?

2. Battery Harness. I am using the 3.4L battery harness because it runs in the right spot to get my battery on the drivers side, but what about the alternator harness? I think I need to use the 3.0L alternator leads which makes sense since I have the 3.0 fuse box. if I use them and run a +12V cable from the battery to the power lead for the fuse box would that work? Do I then just let the 3.4L alternator plus hang?.

3. Transmission plugs. The new manual transmission has 3 plugs one 3 wire in the ack on the t-case (VSS), one 2 pin up by the shifters (neutral position?), and one one pin on the side (4wd?). All the plugs for my auto came out with the old harness, but I can't locate the new ones the rear part of the 3.4L harness (the part with the O2 plugs). Am I just not seeing the right plugs, or do I have the scavenge the old ones and wire them in?

4. Does anyone know what size the fitting on the stock fuel lines is, and where I could get some? I have been trying to have a extension made, but everywhere I go says they don't have those metric flare fittings?


Thanks

dntsdad

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waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

We used the 3.4 AC stuff.

You don't need a fuel line extension. Flip it.

:wabbit2:

dntsdad

Ya, if you didnt flip it to come out the passenger side that is your problem.

davis10

Thanks for the help, I think part of the fuel line was cut when my 3.4L engine was pulled. so I may be missing the section that I need, I'll look into using the 3.0 one.

What I actually meant for 1. oops
1. For CRUISE is it easier to use the 3.4l or 3.0l cruise controller. The plug is different on the 3.4 one, and i heard that i would need to get the amp too. What have you guys done?

So for the alternator you spliced the two 3 pin plugs into one so each pin had 2 wires going to it, I am reading that right?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

keep your 3.0 stuff for the cc. I think you will need to swap over the 3.4 cable that goes to the throttle though.

As far as alternators go.... You use your harness from the 3.0. Some of the early 3.4 used alts. that had the same circular plug. If you want to use the 3.4 one, just match the funtions of the wires on the plug and splice over the 3.4 plug onto the 3.0 harness. Or just use the 3.0 alt

You will not be able to use the 3.0 fuel line. the banjo fitting for the rail is way different. You should have a piece of hose with a fitting on the end of that run into the back of the fuel rain on the passenger side of the motor. If not or the union is cut off, you will need that soft line from a wrecker.

davis10

I'm almost there, few more questions though.

It looks like I'm going to get rid of the Idle up power steering system, I can't remember exactly which pump I used (thought it was the 3.4 one?) but there are no vacuum lines on it. I'm planning on just plugging the ports on the intake box and the intake plenum for the "PS hose". Does this sound right.

Does the intake line coming from the EVAP canister go before or after the MAF? I am using a aftermarket intake filter and don't have the stock box. I am pretty sure it needs to be before the MAF, but if not I can route it into the port on the intake for the PS hose that I'm not using.

One more thing, there is a 1/8" vacuum line with a blue check valve that comes from the idle up switch on back,bottom of throttle body. Does this route to the ADD VSVs?

Thanks again.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

I used a 3.4L pump with 3.0 lines and a 3.0 banjo bolt. Works perfect. Just make sure you use the 3.0 banjo bolt, because the 3.4 bolt is too long. As for the PS idle up, I just capped the lines and called it good. Seems to work just fine.


The blue check valved line is for the ADD VSV's. I removed mine and capped the line, but I don't have ADD. If your truck does have ADD, then you can just run an extension over to the OEM VSV's, or cap it and lock the diff into place and run manual hubs.