JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Thanks vasinvictor
Hopefully the next few days I'll have a chance to get everything hooked up and turn the key and see what happens

down4denver

Congrats on your progress! Coming together nicely. Much success on the remaining wiring too!!

down4denver

I must add, and i know ive said it already, but MAN thats a sweet truck! I really really dig the silver (or gray?) color!

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Alright I've got everything hooked up and turned the key but fuel pump did not turn on with the key in the run position, but it was on while the engine was cranking. I am using the 3.4 COR wired as in the 3.4 swap 101 sticky.
I am using the 3.4 alternator so I swapped the plugs. Cut the three wires and soldered the 3.4 plug. Hooked up the battery, turned the key and nothing. No fuel pump,no engine cranking, no CEL or no dash warning lights for that matter. Dome light works, headlights work, and dash back-lighting works.
Anybody have any idea what it could be? All fuses under the hood are getting power and fuses in drivers side kick panel are getting power. This happened after I hooked up the alternator plug

dntsdad

I think that you are obviously not getting ignition power to anything from the keyed source.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I am getting constant power and switched power(with the ignition switch in the run position). It was working fine but after I hooked up the alternator plug it doesn't anymore. I can also hear the EFI relay clicking when turning the key to the run position, which makes me think that the key switch isn't the problem.
Also wanted to add that the radio doesn't turn on, though it worked before, if that helps.

SacRunner

Unplug the alternator and see what happens.

What was working fine? The engine cranked over? The fuel pump ran at the "On" or "Run" position on the ignition switch? The truck started and ran without issues?

The fact that the radio now doesn't work is telling you something, chances are you blew a fuse somewhere. This sounds dumb, but you do know there are 2 fuse boxes right? One in the engine compartment and one under the dash just above the driver side kick panel.

Have you verified with the key set to "on" or "run" that the ECU is actually seeing +12V where it needs to and good clean grounds where it needs to?
Have you verified that you have +12V at the STA pin on the ECU AND at the starter (on the smaller 14-18 gauge B/W trigger wire) while cranking?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Unplugged the alternator, nothing changed
Before it happened I could turn the key, dash lights turn on, volt meter moves to correct voltage, etc. Turn the key to start, the engine would turn over but not start, move key back and could hear fuel pump run for just a second and cut off.
Yes I checked both fuse blocks and all fuses are good.
ECU is getting 12V and good grounds.
I am not getting 12V at STA and starter.

SacRunner

There's your problem.

Grab your EWD and volt meter and start tracing from the battery to the ignition switch to your starter and ECU checking everything along the way to find where you lose +12V.

Is the clutch switch and clutch start cancel switch still wired and functioning correctly? This can prevent +12V from making it to the STA pin and the starter.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Just tried the Clutch start cancel switch, it doesn't illuminate. It appears somehow I have lost all power in the dash but with no blown fuses.
Looking at my EWD's power goes from the Ignition switch to the starter relay and splits off to the starter, ECU, cold start injector and a start injector time switch.
It looks like I'll be removing the dash and chasing down wires, it just seems odd that this happened without any blown fuses.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Not really an update but it seems I'm taking one step forward and two steps back with this truck.
I pulled the gauge cluster to do the tach mod, got it soldered and plugged the gauges back in and now none of the backlights are working.
I am still looking for the mysterious no power problem with no success

anthony1

iTrader: (1)

This may sound stupid but..... Have you check the dimmer knob for the dash light?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Anthony, I hate to admit it but it was the dimmer switch.
Being so caught up in tracing wires down and staring at EWD's to find my no power problem its easy to over look things like that.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Been looking at the wiring in the truck but have been unable to fine any burnt or cut wires. I did find that I am not getting power to the gauge fuse in the drivers kick panel with the ignition switch to the run position. Also none have matched up with the cover to what the fuse goes to and none of the fuses are the right amp what they should be.
When I jumped power to the gauge fuse the CEL, voltmeter and gas gauge moves(I've added gas in it a few weeks ago) I'm guessing my problem is due to the PO upsizing the fuses and it shorted out a wire instead of a fuse blowing.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

It's alive!
After searching for why I wasn't getting switched power to my gauges I kinda gave up and jumped 12v from another fuse for a temporary fix. That put me back to my gauges working and the engine cranking with the key in the start position.
I didn't have any spark, so I started searching what could be causing the no spark condition. Checked the igniter, had 12v and good ground. Checked MAF, no power, Looked at my EWD's I had hooked up switched power to the ECU but not to the engine. Got it hooked up got 12v at the MAF and tried it again but no spark...
Looked at my EWD's I saw IGSW on E14 Pin 2 needed to be on a switched 12v that I missed. Spliced that into a switched 12v, hooked the plugs back up, sat in the truck turned the key and fired right up.
All that was yesterday, only let it run for a second because it still needed a lower radiator hose. Went and picked one up this morning filled the radiator with water fired it up, warmed up pretty fast (Well it is like 85F today) and drove it around the yard some. Hoping to get exhaust on it by this weekend all it has on it now is the crossover. I might need to adjust the throttle cable bracket a little more it idles about 1200 but it goes down if I pull the TB back by hand. It runs smooth to have no exhaust and probably some vacuum hoses not connected.
I'll post some pics of it soon.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

1st drive under its own power.(The water on the cement is where I topped off the radiator.)


New (to me) tires are 285/75/16 BFG MT they rub bad, going to get a hammer to the fender wells and might have to tighten the torsion bars some.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Got the hood on with cutting a piece of bracing out and using two washers on each bolt. No body lift

down4denver

Congrats!! Glad you got everything figured out! I was really rooting for someone with some knowledge to chime in when you were having issues...guess if you need something done its best to figure it out yourself. Being that your a pro now, expect some Pm's from me here soon when i start tearing into mine...

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Thanks denver, I wouldn't call myself an pro but I could help out if your truck is similar to mine.

Ive read various threads about the exhaust size for the 3.4. I found mixed opinions that the stock 3.0 exhaust was ok to use and others that it was too small of the bigger engine. So I cut the exhaust off my donor 4runner and used it to be as close to stock as possible.
I got it back home and worked on the plugs for the trans, t-case and O2's. I spliced into the stock auto trans harness to use for the 4x4 light, reverse light, and speedometer. Only seven wires for that and I had to extend one O2 plug.
My check engine light is on but it only comes on after its been running a few min and warmed up. I did notice when the CEL comes on it seems to be running rich. I can see a black haze coming out of the tailpipe. I haven't hooked up the EVAP box and hoses yet so that might be it. Once I get that in there I'll have to check it with a scanner if the CEL stays on.

mussy01

iTrader: (2)

Great work on getting your swap to run. Your thread has been encouraging to continue to trouble shoot through my swap although the electrical piece is my weak point.

When you get a chance do you mind posting a pic of how you adjusted your throttle cable or mount? I'm finding that my stock 3.4 cable is about 2" short. My cable is from an 01 4Runner and my engine has an 01 intake manifold but a 99 throttle body. I'm wondering if the change from mechanical to electric also changed locations and distance to the mount.

Thanks man!