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Just keep everything you might think you need. I used 3.4 alt, pwr str pump, and a/c compressor. For a/c you'll swap over the plate with the hoses, you'll need the 3.4 a/c amp. Make sure you grab the cat with 02 sensors. The evap box you may be able to patch up and spray it black Just make sure you grap everything thats pluged into the evap box. The battery harness, the alt harness. There's a body harness plug that goes into the ecu that has wires from the obd2 plug make sure you have that and the obd2 plug. Grab the 3.4 starter. I think thats the most of it. I'm not running the idle up vacume solinoid and have no issues so far.
thanks Cadman. I thought that i read that somewhere too. So buying a used box isnt that bad. think i found one for $50.
Vital: I have the whole runner for a donor so i have everything which is nice. So glad I went that route instead of just buying a motor.
Not much done today except ordered the body lift from 4Crawler. I got a 1.5". I thought that I read that a steering extension helped with clearance issues. I didn't get it cause I couldn't remember and he didn't recommend it for the lift until 2". Should I get it, anyone know?
Ok so back at it tonight. My goal was to get the motor out of the Runner. Had some trans lines to unconnect, and few wires here and there left so got all that unhooked in no time and started to hook up the crane.
Got the crane hooked up and start to go up and yank her back and realized I forgot the flywheel to converter bolts. Been a while.........got them undone with me under the truck and my son turning the crank bolt. After all that was done, it started to come.
Coming
...and out!!!
Got some good news along the way.
The block has the plug for the dipstick. I expected this from what I have read but this was still nice to know I dont have to drill. One less thing to go wrong.
Bearing hole is also there. I have been thinking about this. Again, I know from everything I read that they are there even in autos but if anyone could get he oddball i'd be me.
Question though. My donor is auto and the 92 pickup its going into is stick. I am keeping it 5 speed. I have read conflicting articles, forums about the clutch. Some say you must "keep" the 3.4 clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing and use 3.0 throwout. Some say that you can use all the 3.0 stuff.
I don't have ANY 3.4 clutch parts since my donor is auto.
Anyone know for sure what I am going to need. I'd rather not buy any clutch parts of course and would rather use the 3.0 stuff I already have. Is this going to work? WIll the 3.4 starter still work if I keep all the 3.0 clutch parts?
Just keep everything you might think you need. I used 3.4 alt, pwr str pump, and a/c compressor. For a/c you'll swap over the plate with the hoses, you'll need the 3.4 a/c amp. Make sure you grab the cat with 02 sensors. The evap box you may be able to patch up and spray it black Just make sure you grap everything thats pluged into the evap box. The battery harness, the alt harness. There's a body harness plug that goes into the ecu that has wires from the obd2 plug make sure you have that and the obd2 plug. Grab the 3.4 starter. I think thats the most of it. I'm not running the idle up vacume solinoid and have no issues so far.
Where is the 3.4 amp located at? I know virtually nothing about AC some this I am not sure of.
paid $1800 for it. Still gotta buy a ecm and harness from a 5 speed cause I dont want to mess with the auto harness. Hopefully can sell off stuff to offset that.
thank and welcome to my build thread. You have done the swap skunkwhat?
My donor is auto and the 92 pickup its going into is stick. I am keeping it 5 speed. I have read conflicting articles, forums about the clutch. Some say you must "keep" the 3.4 clutch, flywheel, pilot bearing and use 3.0 throwout. Some say that you can use all the 3.0 stuff.
I don't have ANY 3.4 clutch parts since my donor is auto.
Anyone know for sure what I am going to need. I'd rather not buy any clutch parts of course and would rather use the 3.0 stuff I already have. Is this going to work? WIll the 3.4 starter still work if I keep all the 3.0 clutch parts?
Anyone have a thought on this before I start buying 3.4 parts. thats a huge expensive that I didnt account for, and therefore, rather not take on.
No i have not done this swap. However i just picked up a gray, 240k, 92 ex cab, 4x4, 5 speed, with a v6 "bad engine" yesterday. I will be looking to pickup and engine asap. I Just trying to gain as much knowledge before i buy the swap. I'm mainly concerned about buying any auto, and it nickel and diming me to death with the ecu, flywheel, possible wiring harness ect. I keep getting mixed reviews on which auto harness will plug into which manual ecu.
I was wondering the same thing, about the 3.o flywheel working. I have found a couple auto's for a reasonable price.
And have aslo read conflicting stories about the 3.0 flywheel working on the 3.4. But i have not found that info on a thread i trust.
Although i did find out that sachs makes an oem replacement 3.4 flywhel for about $75.
It still looks like finding a manual harness and ecu, can be difficult for s decent price.
Ok so back at it today. I am off all week since schools are closed in our area the entire Thanksgiving week. Very nice!!
Funny how the little things kill you. I was getting ready to set the motor on the stand and remove it from the crane when I realized the trans mounting bolts that I have planned on using were too short for my particular motor stand. I needed bolts 4" long and there were not going to work. Sent my son to 3 different stores and nothing. Went the next day to a big hardware store (locally owned) and they had them......for $5.00 each!!! Man, twenty buck on bolts and that I will probably never use again any time soon. Regardless, make sure you have those handy for YOUR stand. Thread size is 12 x 1.25 pitch and then length is dependent on the stand you are using.
Oh well.....Got the runner out of the garage and traded places with the truck. Time to start getting that 3.0 out now that the crane is able to be used with the 3.4 off it. the runner was sure nice working on as it was very clean. Not the same with the truck. The moment I opened the hood I was dirty. Removed the hood and started getting things taken apart.
Amazing how much crap is on that 3.0 compared to the 3.4 after getting that out. There is stuff in the truck motor going everywhere!! The whole power steering system I still don't understand. Power steering and ABS and crap everywhere. I am ripping all that stuff out. I just gotta figure out how. I read Mt Goats thread at Marlin I think about taking that out but i am not sure I understand it all. Gotta research that more or get with Goat. Sure be nice to have all those 100's of vacuum lines gone as well.
Still unclear on the flywheel, clutch deal. I have read guys that use all their 3.0 parts but why would ORS and others say to use the 3.4 stuff other than the throwout?? Will the 3.4 starter work with the 3.0 parts? Also still looking for a 3.4 manual ecm and harness too. Not going to mess with the auto and trying to make that work i decide for sure.
Anyway no pictures today as my hands were too greasy too touch the iPhone but really there was nothing to take pictures of.....just grease and cuss words today.
The power steering was very simple. I undid the hoses from the power steering pump, pulled the 3.0, ground off a little tab on the one hose, hooked them up to the 3.4 power steering pump. I touched nothing else. My ABS still functions fine.
I went with the 3.4 starter, flywheel, and clutch with the 3.0 throwout bearing. I have read that you can use the 3.0 flywheel and clutch, so if you're going to, I'd imagine you'd need to use the 3.0 starter as well. I'm guessing (and only guessing) that the flywheels might be different diameters or tooth counts.
I decided to do it backward I guess. I thought that I would start at the box and let the fluid drain out and then work my way up. Still want to take all that crap out. I am looking for simplistic over mass stuff at this point.
Ya, I figured as I was typing that if I use 3.0 stuff then I should stay 3.0 starter. I thought that i read that 3.4 flywheel is larger and I assume that would cuase problems meshing the teeth together. I am gonna call Marlin tomorrow or maybe go over there. They are only about 2 miles from my house and if I have to buy a clutch, flywheel setup I'll just get theirs.
Fair enough. I kept mine and I'm glad I did. I pulled the LSPV from the back and now get full braking at the rear. Without ABS, the back would try to outrun the front
Ok so got a lot done today. Got everything unbolted and unhooked from the 3.0 truck and ready to come out. Again this thing must have leaked oil since it was new. Absolutely filthy, nasty mess. I bought it last year at Christmas (this is actually my son's truck. I bought it for him last Christmas and then it threw a rod bearing 4th of July weekend and been sitting since).
Anyway, got everything loose and pulled away and pushed into the driveway to get it out. I didnt think i would have enough clearance in the garage and the light is better out there anyway. Ended up starting by letting the air out of the tires for more clearance to get the motor over the radiator support.
Then i went to put a floor jack under the trans to support it and it didnt fit so I improvised.
Ok cool. So all that was taken care of....ya right.
Dang crane was hitting the LCA and could not get under anymore so out came the jack stands to get enough clearance for the crane to slide under.
Started jacking, angling the trans, cussing, pulling on the motor and nothing. Then we realized that the very top bolt was still in!!! This is it hiding up there. Those of you getting ready to do this and reading its easy to miss, its there though.
Ok so that is solved and we are cooking with gas now!! Well maybe not. Now the motor wont come forward so we finally realize its hitting the stabilizer. Again, note to those planning this.
This is not going to work.
Solution
After about 45 minutes of minor setbacks and its on its way! all is looking good. There is a ground that I almost missing under the AC compressor cause it was covered in oil and crap. 14mm head, again for those of you planning. Also, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND either removing or protecting the condensor. I put a piece of scrap melamine in front of it before we started to pull it out. Without that there it would have been toast for sure. Thats an expensive piece to ruin so easily.
.......and out. Anyone want to buy a 3.0 with a spun bearing??
After the motor was out we starting cleaning up the bay and to say it needed a cleaning is about as large an understatement as you can make. Some of the wiring that went to nowhere.
The wide shot of the bay. We'll call this before. Hopefully the after will be in a few days.
Check out the crap in the bellhousing. There at least a quart of oil in all that sludge!!
So after we cleaned up all that we called it a day after cleaning the driveway and street. Hate to see it tomorrow. My neighbors are going to hate me.
Hopefully start swapping the motor parts tomorrow. Oil pan, dipstick, etc.
As a side note, why do i have a washing machine if I get yelled at for putting greasy clothes in it??
another day. Not as much big progress but the little stuff on the motor. Starting taking the oil pans and clean up the 3.0 pan to swap. I replace the rod bearing and sealed itup pretty dang good. I had a really hard time getting the seal broke to start getting it off. I started with a razor blade but that didnt work well after I broke two of them. Decided to get heavy duty and broke out the large taping knife. Worked perfect and had the pan off in 3 minutes from here.
Starting looking at the plug and thought about using vice-grips as I have read on some threads and could tell by how mangled it was in the pictures. Started thinking about it and grabbed a 7/32 Snap On and it fit perfect. A few taps with a hammer and it was on its way to the 3.4.
I ran out of depth with the socket and finished it up with a 1.4" drive extension.
Drove out the one in the 3.4 the same way and started thing that instead of tapping the hole in the 3.4 hey couldn't I put the hole plug that I just removed from the 3.4 in the dipstick hole. I measured them to be sure and they are the exact same diameter.
The 3.0 guide.
The 3.4 plug
Put the 3.0 guide into the now vacant 3.4 hole and used some extensions to "help" it into place. Went right in.
Started to try to get the plug in the stock dipstick hole on the 3.4 but had to remove the alternator and bracket for that. As I started hitting it I realized a lot of force was going to be needed to drive it in the hole. Probably needed a press and the metal is fairly thin there at the front of the motor and I could see me cracking it so I broke out the tap and settled for that.
I used a 3/8 20 I think it was. Had it laying around and I only have American taps as if now. Added a little sealant the threads and the hole and its in its new home.
Think I found a manual ecm and harness as well. Will know for sure on Wednesday. that will be nice. Also, got a message from 4crawler that my body lift shipped today so hopefully Friday or Saturday that will get here.
Now in the dipstick I thought that I had read 100 times that the 3.0 tube and dipstick was reused on the 3.4. The is no logical place to bolt the support bracket to that it will line up properly. Does someone have a pic if I have this correct and I can use the 3.0 tube and stick, or am i buying a t-100 tube and stick? Should I make a new support bracket and tack it to the tube? Again some good pics would be great so i can get a look.
I just made a dipstick bracket out of some 1/8" flat stock and bolted it to the engine block. Mine wraps around the dipstick tube. It's not elegant, but it works.
11-18-2009, 09:56 PM
