Finally venturing into my 3.4 swap (dial up warning) - Page 5

mt_goat · 11-22-2006, 05:23 AM

Be sure and recycle your old cat, big bucks for those.

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breknraj · 11-22-2006, 07:50 AM

I saw your post about that! I have three to recycle!! I hope I can get as much for mine as you did on yours.

Seriously, that is one source of recovering some of the money on this project that I had not thought of, until I read about it here!

breknraj · 11-30-2006, 09:56 PM

After scrounging through some more pick and pulls in Denver, I finally found the purge VSV that I needed. Using the old VSV mounting plate, I put this together, to keep everything reasonably compact. I'll mount this somewhere in the driver's side fender area, near the brake booster, since all of the wiring for the valves and pressure sensor are on that side.

I'll have to get some more vacuum hosing to run the connections back to the evap can on the right side.

My new cats came in today, so all I need for the exhaust is the new spool of wire for my welder. My plan is to turn the key for the first time next week, if the weather will cooperate just a bit!

mt_goat · 12-01-2006, 04:37 AM

One of those made a lot of clicking noise on mine, kind of like a valve tick only more constant. After wrapping it in foam rubber I don't hear it anymore.

It's even snowing here now, I don't see how you did this outside. You're a true mountain man. Good luck

breknraj · 12-01-2006, 01:08 PM

Only subtle changes today, but just that much more done!

I got the evap system put together, and wired. While I was working on that, I discovered that the drain valve on the new radiator was leaking. I drained the radiator and pulled out the screw plug. The o-ring seemed slightly wrong in size, so I tried the one from my old radiator, and that seems to have solved the problem.

A much better outcome than having to yank it out to exchange in Denver!

I have only been zip tying most of the wires and hoses, for now. I'll change some to clamps once I get the cruise control in, and am happy with the routing.

Got the call that my welding wire has come in, so I should be good to go for next week!

Tooku · 12-03-2006, 07:42 PM

cool beans. I like your swap conversion here. I got an 89 4x4 with a 2wd extended cab body on it. I put my 22re motor in there and took out the old 6 that was in it. It would be nice to have a motor like yours in my machine. So many swaps options and its endless. Lots of fun too. Looks like you got quite the yard space too to work on your rig. Good luck finishn her up and boltin her together. I book marked the auction site. Seen a carolla on there that didn't look like it was possible to survive the crash in. Hopfully the person got ejected and lived. http://www.ridesafely.com/image.asp?...F07895396%5F1X

breknraj · 12-05-2006, 04:30 PM

I got all of the alternator, fuse box, starter lead, and grounds taken care of today. The only wiring left is for the underneath switches (reverse, transfer case and ADD switch).

I'll finish those tomorrow, and start putting my exhaust together. I might get to try the key tomorrow, but by Thursday, for sure!

breknraj · 12-06-2006, 06:33 PM

Well, everything except the O2 sensors are wired and routed.

I started hacking the parts I needed off of the old exhausts - hangers from the original, and the O2 sensor flanges from the Taco. Prepping the sensor flanges has been the big time consumer, so far. Grinding the old welds off, and re-contouring to fit the new 2 1/2" tubing is a real chore - I can't believe that I couldn't find new ones to buy for the install.

If I had the resources to do it, I would have fabbed new ones, like Mt. Goat did on his project.

I'm close to done with the front sensor flange, and still have a fair amout to grind on the rear one. Once I have the parts prepped, I'll start cutting tubing, and begin fabbing the exhaust. I still hope that I can give the key a try tomorrow afternoon. Got to just keep after it, until I get there!

mt_goat · 12-06-2006, 07:05 PM

I only fabbed one up, the other was refurbished from my 3.0 exhaust.

Good luck on the big key turning party.

breknraj · 12-07-2006, 06:18 PM

I'm sure I remember a corollary to Murphy's Law that goes: Everything will take longer than you think!

I started out by finishing up the O2 sensor flanges.

The pics are both of the original exhaust systems, and the part I salvaged for the new exhaust. Sensor flanges from the Taco, and hangers from the truck.

breknraj · 12-07-2006, 06:40 PM

I cut my first piece of madrel bent tubing to make the junction between the down pipe and the first cat, and to determine where I would drill for the O2 sensor.

I pulled part of my old truck exhaust to do some demo welding on the stainless there. I had a bear of a time setting up the wire feed for the 308L flux core for stainless. I had to drop the reel brake down to just about nothing, and had to up the feed pressure a little to get it to feed. This stuff is also not very forgiving of bends in the stinger lead, so I found that I had to keep the line as straight as possible to keep it reliable.

It also is difficult to weld with. I'm sure that I'm getting good penetration in the material, but the flux keeps it from flowing out very well, so I'm ending up with some pretty ugly stuff, so far. This is really making me want to get a bottle of Argon and some regular wire, but I really don't have that much to do, so I'll work through it.

I got the first pipe, O2 flange and first Cat put together. I mounted the downpipe flange to its counterpart on the downpipe, with a couple of sheets of aluminum cut from a soda can sandwiched in between to limit how far the new pipe could go. The regular welding was strange enough, but trying to get a decent tack in the overhead position. I managed to fry some of the hair on the top of my head (still trying to figure out HOW!) I finally got enough to be able to remove the whole thing, to wled the flange onto the pipe. I only got about half of that before it got too dark and cold to see what I was doing (dark and fogging the lens).

I'll probably only get the flange finished, and the next Cat and pipe tacked in before I have to put it to bed to go to Denver tomorrow. No way I'm missing my fiancee's office christmas dinner -- filet, crab legs, and single malt scotch tomorrow night!

mt_goat · 12-08-2006, 05:48 AM

Stainless really needs to be back shielded as well. That means you would need 2 bottles of argon, one for the front and one to purge the inside of the tubing. Without back shielding the molten SS will crystallize and weaken the weld.

breknraj · 12-12-2006, 04:59 PM

I just have to keep on keepin' on with what I've got, and that's the 308L for my welder. Got the last couple of things that I wanted for the exhaust while I was in Denver this weekend (Holiday dinner was excellent, BTW - Elk medalions and crab legs!!)

I got the two cat sub assemblies together today, and hung the muffler in place, with a jack stand to hold up the front. I have to finish welding the cat stuff up (just tacked, right now), then I'll mount that up with the exhaust gasket. The only thing left at that point will be fabbing the bend from the tail of the cat assemblies up to the muffler.

I'm feeling a bit like a popsicle, right now -- too much time laying under the truck on a cold day, today. Hopefully I'll finish the exhaust, install the O2 sensors, and give it a whirl tomorrow -- IF the weather co-operates!

breknraj · 12-13-2006, 04:38 PM

The exhaust is in, and the installation is complete.

Let the trouble shooting begin!

Being cautious, I put the battery in, connected the ground, then took a voltage measurement (12.7v). Then I just set the postive in place, no drama, but the emergency flashers were on, so I went into the cab, turned them off, noticed that I had dome and door lights.

I took another voltage reading, and got 12.4. I figured that was about right (clock and stereo memories), so I secured the positive terminal. Went back to the cab, and noticed that I no longer had door and dome lights. Tried the key, and had no signs of life, at all. What ever the problem is, it didn't blow a fuse immediately, but the problem came up within about a minute or so of being connected.

It was starting to get dark, but I verified that the main 80a fusible link was still good; verified grounds to engine and body. The fuse on the ORS harness is still good, as well. I disconnected the positive for the night.

I'm not exactly sure where to start looking for problems tomorrow, based on this information, so far. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

mt_goat · 12-13-2006, 05:20 PM

Oh my, no sign of life at all? The starter didn't even turn over?:pat:

breknraj · 12-13-2006, 06:42 PM

Nada, Zilch, Zip, Null -- you get the picture.

I have no idea what I may have screwed up that caused this, and not blown up fuses (at leat none that I have found), and that it didn't flake out as soon as I put power to it. The fact that I had the flashers and the cab lights for a minute or more, and then nothing is VERY strange to me. I have a call into ORS to see if Mike has any suggestions. Hopefully, it won't take too long to figure it out and correct it.

mt_goat · 12-14-2006, 04:48 AM

Did you check the fuseable link rear the battery?

breknraj · 12-14-2006, 07:20 PM

IT'S ALIIIIVEEE!!!!!

Talked to Mike this morning, went over the symptoms, and he basically told me to try it, again. So I cleaned the posts and terminals (again), and put it back together.

Got in (noticed the dome light on), and turned the key. It cranked for about 15 or 20 seconds (refilling the fuel in the system), then roared to life!!!

I have no idea why it didn't fire last night, but I now don't care, since it fired every time I tried it, today! Warmed it up, and started topping off all of the fluids. I saw no leaks, anywhere, but it was looking like I had a camp fire going under the tent for a while. Burning off the left over PB Blaster, the new header wrap, and a little leftover tagging on the exhaust sure stunk the place up for a bit!

The only issue that I seemed to have was that my 4WD was not engaging. After a short look around, I realized that I had chosen the wrong place to run the primary vacuum hose. I had it on the intake side of the butterfly (duh!) Tapped into a hose from the plenum side, and, voile, working 4WD!

I took it for a short ride around the neighborhood to check things out, and all went well. Brought it home and began to put the rest of the front end back together. I was going to add the horns from the Taco, but found that they worked opposite the original horn (Taco - switched positive, Truck -switched negative). I'll figure something out for that, later.

The only big thing I have left, now, is the hood. I may have a line on one that has already been converted. I'll have to find out, for sure (or cut a hole in mine, if need be).

breknraj · 12-14-2006, 07:23 PM

I'm looking forward to getting the truck out on the road for a little bit, tomorrow. I have to get it back on my insurance, first, though!

I got a little indication of the power in my neighborhood drive, and it has me curious as to what I really have!

Anyway, here's everything but the hood!

breknraj · 12-14-2006, 07:26 PM

I have to admit that I took a fair amount of pleasure in the simple tasks of setting the clock, and programming the stereo!

It's been a long haul getting here, but I'm glad I made the trip!

91_4x4runner · 12-14-2006, 07:40 PM

Your hood doesn't clear the intake manifold? Odd, I thought these were a perfect fit.

breknraj · 12-14-2006, 08:09 PM

To leave a little bit of clearance over the plenum, you need to either put at least a 1" body lift on, or modify the hood. I want to go the route of putting a 4Runner Sport hood scoop on my hood.

The plenum on the 5V make the engine noticably taller than the 3V.

Elvota · 12-14-2006, 09:12 PM

Congrates on your success!!

Bet you can't wait to climb those passes in your area. I'd bet it will feel strange to start passing people.

mt_goat · 12-15-2006, 05:38 AM

Good work!:bigclap:

breknraj · 12-15-2006, 09:17 AM

Ran it to town for a bottle of Techron and a fill up, since the tank was down to about 1/8 on the guage. After I had some breakfast, and showed it off to the folks there, as they have been hearing the trials and tribulations during the project, I came toward home, and decided to take it up the pass.

It did very well, but I need to remember to go easy on the new clutch! I also need to figure out why there seems to be no life to the oil guage. I swaped out the sensor from the 3.0, and wired it to the switch wire on the 3.4. I thought that that was all I had to do, but the guage is not moving, at all.

I'm going to test fit the hood, and get some idea of how much of the center is going to have to disappear. I can't abide by having it running, and not being able to drive it, for fear of some of the goodies developing "legs" of their own when it is parked!

Gawd, it is nice to have my truck back!!! :beach:

11-30-2006, 09:56 PM	#103 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	After scrounging through some more pick and pulls in Denver, I finally found the purge VSV that I needed. Using the old VSV mounting plate, I put this together, to keep everything reasonably compact. I'll mount this somewhere in the driver's side fender area, near the brake booster, since all of the wiring for the valves and pressure sensor are on that side. I'll have to get some more vacuum hosing to run the connections back to the evap can on the right side. My new cats came in today, so all I need for the exhaust is the new spool of wire for my welder. My plan is to turn the key for the first time next week, if the weather will cooperate just a bit! Attached Thumbnails

12-01-2006, 04:37 AM	#104 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	One of those made a lot of clicking noise on mine, kind of like a valve tick only more constant. After wrapping it in foam rubber I don't hear it anymore. It's even snowing here now, I don't see how you did this outside. You're a true mountain man. Good luck __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 12-01-2006 at 04:38 AM.

12-01-2006, 01:08 PM	#105 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	Only subtle changes today, but just that much more done! I got the evap system put together, and wired. While I was working on that, I discovered that the drain valve on the new radiator was leaking. I drained the radiator and pulled out the screw plug. The o-ring seemed slightly wrong in size, so I tried the one from my old radiator, and that seems to have solved the problem. A much better outcome than having to yank it out to exchange in Denver! I have only been zip tying most of the wires and hoses, for now. I'll change some to clamps once I get the cruise control in, and am happy with the routing. Got the call that my welding wire has come in, so I should be good to go for next week! Attached Thumbnails

12-06-2006, 07:05 PM	#109 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	I only fabbed one up, the other was refurbished from my 3.0 exhaust. Good luck on the big key turning party. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

12-07-2006, 06:18 PM	#110 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	I'm sure I remember a corollary to Murphy's Law that goes: Everything will take longer than you think! I started out by finishing up the O2 sensor flanges. The pics are both of the original exhaust systems, and the part I salvaged for the new exhaust. Sensor flanges from the Taco, and hangers from the truck. Attached Thumbnails

11-22-2006, 07:50 AM	#102 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	I saw your post about that! I have three to recycle!! I hope I can get as much for mine as you did on yours. Seriously, that is one source of recovering some of the money on this project that I had not thought of, until I read about it here!

12-03-2006, 07:42 PM	#106 (permalink)
Tooku Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 1	cool beans. I like your swap conversion here. I got an 89 4x4 with a 2wd extended cab body on it. I put my 22re motor in there and took out the old 6 that was in it. It would be nice to have a motor like yours in my machine. So many swaps options and its endless. Lots of fun too. Looks like you got quite the yard space too to work on your rig. Good luck finishn her up and boltin her together. I book marked the auction site. Seen a carolla on there that didn't look like it was possible to survive the crash in. Hopfully the person got ejected and lived. http://www.ridesafely.com/image.asp?...F07895396%5F1X

12-05-2006, 04:30 PM	#107 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	I got all of the alternator, fuse box, starter lead, and grounds taken care of today. The only wiring left is for the underneath switches (reverse, transfer case and ADD switch). I'll finish those tomorrow, and start putting my exhaust together. I might get to try the key tomorrow, but by Thursday, for sure!

12-06-2006, 06:33 PM	#108 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	Well, everything except the O2 sensors are wired and routed. I started hacking the parts I needed off of the old exhausts - hangers from the original, and the O2 sensor flanges from the Taco. Prepping the sensor flanges has been the big time consumer, so far. Grinding the old welds off, and re-contouring to fit the new 2 1/2" tubing is a real chore - I can't believe that I couldn't find new ones to buy for the install. If I had the resources to do it, I would have fabbed new ones, like Mt. Goat did on his project. I'm close to done with the front sensor flange, and still have a fair amout to grind on the rear one. Once I have the parts prepped, I'll start cutting tubing, and begin fabbing the exhaust. I still hope that I can give the key a try tomorrow afternoon. Got to just keep after it, until I get there!

12-07-2006, 06:40 PM	#111 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	I cut my first piece of madrel bent tubing to make the junction between the down pipe and the first cat, and to determine where I would drill for the O2 sensor. I pulled part of my old truck exhaust to do some demo welding on the stainless there. I had a bear of a time setting up the wire feed for the 308L flux core for stainless. I had to drop the reel brake down to just about nothing, and had to up the feed pressure a little to get it to feed. This stuff is also not very forgiving of bends in the stinger lead, so I found that I had to keep the line as straight as possible to keep it reliable. It also is difficult to weld with. I'm sure that I'm getting good penetration in the material, but the flux keeps it from flowing out very well, so I'm ending up with some pretty ugly stuff, so far. This is really making me want to get a bottle of Argon and some regular wire, but I really don't have that much to do, so I'll work through it. I got the first pipe, O2 flange and first Cat put together. I mounted the downpipe flange to its counterpart on the downpipe, with a couple of sheets of aluminum cut from a soda can sandwiched in between to limit how far the new pipe could go. The regular welding was strange enough, but trying to get a decent tack in the overhead position. I managed to fry some of the hair on the top of my head (still trying to figure out HOW!) I finally got enough to be able to remove the whole thing, to wled the flange onto the pipe. I only got about half of that before it got too dark and cold to see what I was doing (dark and fogging the lens). I'll probably only get the flange finished, and the next Cat and pipe tacked in before I have to put it to bed to go to Denver tomorrow. No way I'm missing my fiancee's office christmas dinner -- filet, crab legs, and single malt scotch tomorrow night! Attached Thumbnails

12-08-2006, 05:48 AM	#112 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Stainless really needs to be back shielded as well. That means you would need 2 bottles of argon, one for the front and one to purge the inside of the tubing. Without back shielding the molten SS will crystallize and weaken the weld. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

12-12-2006, 04:59 PM	#113 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	I just have to keep on keepin' on with what I've got, and that's the 308L for my welder. Got the last couple of things that I wanted for the exhaust while I was in Denver this weekend (Holiday dinner was excellent, BTW - Elk medalions and crab legs!!) I got the two cat sub assemblies together today, and hung the muffler in place, with a jack stand to hold up the front. I have to finish welding the cat stuff up (just tacked, right now), then I'll mount that up with the exhaust gasket. The only thing left at that point will be fabbing the bend from the tail of the cat assemblies up to the muffler. I'm feeling a bit like a popsicle, right now -- too much time laying under the truck on a cold day, today. Hopefully I'll finish the exhaust, install the O2 sensors, and give it a whirl tomorrow -- IF the weather co-operates!

12-13-2006, 04:38 PM	#114 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	The exhaust is in, and the installation is complete. Let the trouble shooting begin! Being cautious, I put the battery in, connected the ground, then took a voltage measurement (12.7v). Then I just set the postive in place, no drama, but the emergency flashers were on, so I went into the cab, turned them off, noticed that I had dome and door lights. I took another voltage reading, and got 12.4. I figured that was about right (clock and stereo memories), so I secured the positive terminal. Went back to the cab, and noticed that I no longer had door and dome lights. Tried the key, and had no signs of life, at all. What ever the problem is, it didn't blow a fuse immediately, but the problem came up within about a minute or so of being connected. It was starting to get dark, but I verified that the main 80a fusible link was still good; verified grounds to engine and body. The fuse on the ORS harness is still good, as well. I disconnected the positive for the night. I'm not exactly sure where to start looking for problems tomorrow, based on this information, so far. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!

12-13-2006, 05:20 PM	#115 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Oh my, no sign of life at all? The starter didn't even turn over?:pat: __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

12-13-2006, 06:42 PM	#116 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	Nada, Zilch, Zip, Null -- you get the picture. I have no idea what I may have screwed up that caused this, and not blown up fuses (at leat none that I have found), and that it didn't flake out as soon as I put power to it. The fact that I had the flashers and the cab lights for a minute or more, and then nothing is VERY strange to me. I have a call into ORS to see if Mike has any suggestions. Hopefully, it won't take too long to figure it out and correct it.

12-14-2006, 07:40 PM	#121 (permalink)
91_4x4runner Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,078	Your hood doesn't clear the intake manifold? Odd, I thought these were a perfect fit. __________________ ~Eric 1991 4Runner 3.0L 4x4 Black, 31" Michelin M/S tires, OME-901's 1992 Lexus SC400 4.0 V8, Green with Tan interior (donor) (PM me for parts) Near Future: FI 1UZ swap. (June) Far Future mods: F/R Lockers, SAS, 35's. UZswap.com - A discussion forum dedicated specifically to swapping UZ engines into Toyota trucks and 4Runners

12-14-2006, 04:48 AM	#117 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Did you check the fuseable link rear the battery? __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

12-14-2006, 07:20 PM	#118 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	IT'S ALIIIIVEEE!!!!! Talked to Mike this morning, went over the symptoms, and he basically told me to try it, again. So I cleaned the posts and terminals (again), and put it back together. Got in (noticed the dome light on), and turned the key. It cranked for about 15 or 20 seconds (refilling the fuel in the system), then roared to life!!! I have no idea why it didn't fire last night, but I now don't care, since it fired every time I tried it, today! Warmed it up, and started topping off all of the fluids. I saw no leaks, anywhere, but it was looking like I had a camp fire going under the tent for a while. Burning off the left over PB Blaster, the new header wrap, and a little leftover tagging on the exhaust sure stunk the place up for a bit! The only issue that I seemed to have was that my 4WD was not engaging. After a short look around, I realized that I had chosen the wrong place to run the primary vacuum hose. I had it on the intake side of the butterfly (duh!) Tapped into a hose from the plenum side, and, voile, working 4WD! I took it for a short ride around the neighborhood to check things out, and all went well. Brought it home and began to put the rest of the front end back together. I was going to add the horns from the Taco, but found that they worked opposite the original horn (Taco - switched positive, Truck -switched negative). I'll figure something out for that, later. The only big thing I have left, now, is the hood. I may have a line on one that has already been converted. I'll have to find out, for sure (or cut a hole in mine, if need be). Attached Thumbnails

12-14-2006, 07:23 PM	#119 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	I'm looking forward to getting the truck out on the road for a little bit, tomorrow. I have to get it back on my insurance, first, though! I got a little indication of the power in my neighborhood drive, and it has me curious as to what I really have! Anyway, here's everything but the hood! Attached Thumbnails

12-14-2006, 07:26 PM	#120 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	I have to admit that I took a fair amount of pleasure in the simple tasks of setting the clock, and programming the stereo! It's been a long haul getting here, but I'm glad I made the trip!

12-14-2006, 08:09 PM	#122 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	To leave a little bit of clearance over the plenum, you need to either put at least a 1" body lift on, or modify the hood. I want to go the route of putting a 4Runner Sport hood scoop on my hood. The plenum on the 5V make the engine noticably taller than the 3V.

12-14-2006, 09:12 PM	#123 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Congrates on your success!! Bet you can't wait to climb those passes in your area. I'd bet it will feel strange to start passing people. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

12-15-2006, 05:38 AM	#124 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Good work!:bigclap: __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

12-15-2006, 09:17 AM	#125 (permalink)
breknraj Contributing Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Summit County, Colorado Posts: 898	Ran it to town for a bottle of Techron and a fill up, since the tank was down to about 1/8 on the guage. After I had some breakfast, and showed it off to the folks there, as they have been hearing the trials and tribulations during the project, I came toward home, and decided to take it up the pass. It did very well, but I need to remember to go easy on the new clutch! I also need to figure out why there seems to be no life to the oil guage. I swaped out the sensor from the 3.0, and wired it to the switch wire on the 3.4. I thought that that was all I had to do, but the guage is not moving, at all. I'm going to test fit the hood, and get some idea of how much of the center is going to have to disappear. I can't abide by having it running, and not being able to drive it, for fear of some of the goodies developing "legs" of their own when it is parked! Gawd, it is nice to have my truck back!!! :beach:

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