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Old 10-28-2008, 01:46 AM   #226 (permalink)
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Well, real life and Mother Nature can be a real pain, but Worf is back together and running, again! I did splice in an 8" flex fitting on my exhaust, between the two cats. The only thing I have left to do, now, is to fab up the downpipe support for the bell housing.

I had the usual fun and games bleeding the cooling system, and had to bring the yellow top back up from about 15%, but all is good, again. I also checked the A/C, since I did this job without disconnecting any of the A/C components, and it is still blowing cold!

I'll post pics of the support, once I figure out how I'm going to do it!
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Old 12-20-2008, 03:51 PM   #227 (permalink)
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Well crap, mine is cracked now too.
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Old 12-21-2008, 09:58 AM   #228 (permalink)
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Ouch . Looks like it's time to make that brace I put on the back burner and modify the stock cross-over to replace the ORS when it does crack.
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Old 12-21-2008, 10:33 AM   #229 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadman View Post
Ouch . Looks like it's time to make that brace I put on the back burner and modify the stock cross-over to replace the ORS when it does crack.
What's your plan with the stock x-over?
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93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.
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Old 12-21-2008, 10:58 AM   #230 (permalink)
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Modify it like Jason4x4 did to dump on the driver side, but machine a new collector flange or modify the stock one so it can bolt to a support on the bellhousing like it did on the passenger side. I think the cross-over really needs a mount point at the flange just like the stock config to eliminate or minimize any twisting forces.
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1989 4wd Xtra Cab, 3.4L V6
A340F auto, gear drive transfer case, 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers, Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear, E-code Hellas
4.88 gears, ARB locked F&R, Toyo Open Country MT 255/85R/16, Procomp 16x8 black steel Krawlers
Badlands Basher front bumper, Warn M8000 winch, All-Pro Off-Road rear Tacoma bumper
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:10 AM   #231 (permalink)
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mine seems to be working fine for over a year now no problems and instead of wrapping it is now ceramic coated so i can see immediately if it where to crack. btw just so all of you know if you have a 3 inch body lift all you have to do is drop the transmission crossmember and lower the trans about 4 inches and you can slide the crossover out the drivers side wheel well
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:13 AM   #232 (permalink)
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One big plus with the older cross-over design is it that it is made of two separate pipes and there is no welded junction to fail.
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1989 4wd Xtra Cab, 3.4L V6
A340F auto, gear drive transfer case, 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers, Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear, E-code Hellas
4.88 gears, ARB locked F&R, Toyo Open Country MT 255/85R/16, Procomp 16x8 black steel Krawlers
Badlands Basher front bumper, Warn M8000 winch, All-Pro Off-Road rear Tacoma bumper
Revenge Fabrication Sliders
Alpine CDA 9857
My 3.4 swap
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Old 12-21-2008, 08:06 PM   #233 (permalink)
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I'm concerned that mine might have cracked due to temperature extremes. I haven't really located the leak but it's definitely on the drivers side. It could be related to a twist/torque issue too. cadman you got yours out by lowering the transmission right? Was that the ORS crossover?
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:41 AM   #234 (permalink)
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Yes, I was able to remove and re-install my ORS cross-over from the driver side by lowering the rear end of the transmission. I just put my tranny jack under the crossmember and unbolted it rather than remove the cross member and move the tranny itself. I have a 1" bl and the spacer I currently have on the cross member lifts the tranny 1" over the stock height, so that probably negates the bl lift somewhat.
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1989 4wd Xtra Cab, 3.4L V6
A340F auto, gear drive transfer case, 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers, Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear, E-code Hellas
4.88 gears, ARB locked F&R, Toyo Open Country MT 255/85R/16, Procomp 16x8 black steel Krawlers
Badlands Basher front bumper, Warn M8000 winch, All-Pro Off-Road rear Tacoma bumper
Revenge Fabrication Sliders
Alpine CDA 9857
My 3.4 swap
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Old 12-29-2008, 11:38 AM   #235 (permalink)
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So mine cracked at the collector but I think that was because I ground the weld down a little too thin. I don't know what broke the weld though. It could have been torque or cold snow getting on the hot pipe. Either way it was on the outside area so I was able to weld it without removing it or taking the wheel off. Took about 5 minutes
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Old 12-30-2008, 09:16 AM   #236 (permalink)
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hey syber take a look at my post on the bottom of Dales thread

here http://www.yotatech.com/f160/3-4-swa...5/index29.html

Dale had a crack as well. seems the welded joint is prone to failure. especially when wrapped, with no flex coupling before or near the cat, and no tranny/exhuast mount support.
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94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet.
90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy)
92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)
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