Elvota's 3.4 swap - Page 3

fillsrunner4 · 11-30-2007, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

one thing i would suggest you dont install the alt till after you put the engine in there is only about 1/4 inch between the steering shaft and the alt when its on and tight.

Thats true but i dont think it would really make any difference on when you put it in but it is close.

Also if i remember coretly you said you were going to be using headers? If you go with downey ones be sure to order them without the egr on it because it will interfer with your steering. I bought them knowing that but was given header with it so i cut it off and plugged it. Just so ya know

mt_goat · 11-30-2007, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

I had the same problem but whent to a wrecking yard and pulled a 3.4 all ternator and a 93 3.0 and my original 89 3.0 and compared the 3. cant tell you for sure what the differnces are right now but pretty sure dale didnt have this trouble.

I just used the 3.4 alt.

**Elvota** · 11-30-2007, 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

I believe a 3.0 alternator after 92 should bolt to your 3.4 flanges and tensioner. I had the same problem but went to a wrecking yard and pulled a 3.4 alternator and a 93 3.0 and my original 89 3.0 and compared the 3. Cant tell you for sure what the differences are right now but pretty sure dale didn't have this trouble.

You can see by the pics that the two I had were very similiar, but just different enough to require minimal modification to fit. It's definitily possible the variance throughout the years might make some combinations work better than others.

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

One thing I would suggest you don't install the alt till after you put the engine in there is only about 1/4 inch between the steering shaft and the alt when its on and tight.

That's a good point. I'll remove it before install. It's just there loosely to make sure if fit, so shouldn't be a problem. Thanks for the tip.

**Elvota** · 11-30-2007, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillsrunner4

Also if i remember correctly you said you were going to be using headers? If you go with Downey ones be sure to order them without the egr on it because it will interfere with your steering.

Actually, Downey now lists the non-EGR headers for the 3.0 swap on their website... but that would have been an easy thing to overlook. So I ended up with the headers and no EGR.

**Elvota** · 11-30-2007, 09:26 PM

Got a few things done today. Pretty much has been raining since noon... so couldn't get to the truck itself. Shouldn't' complain, I can remember Breknraj completing this swap under a tarp in 12 inches of snow.

Started moving around the fuel lines from the PS to the DS. Just like Fallman had recommended, you can rotate the 3.4 supply line pretty easily. Just loosen the banjo bolt at the end of the fuel rail and give it a twirl.

Something like this:

Of course, I don't have it in the truck yet... but it seems plenty long enough to reach the factory 3.0 hardline and the ends are compatible. No adapters or couplers should be required.

Also re-routed the return line.

Original position (rubber hose curved in foreground):

This took slightly more work, but was pretty straightforward. Just rotate the rubber U-bend and cut off one of the hardline brackets. The remaining bracket bolts perfectly to an existing hole in the intake. The bracket and hardline are pretty easy to tweak and get things where you need them.

End result:

You can now see the return heading to the PS and ready to be connected. I'll just tie this one into the existing 3.0 return line as well with some extra fuel grade hose.

**Elvota** · 11-30-2007, 09:39 PM

My 3.4 donor had been hit pretty hard on the DS front fender, and that took the EVAP box as well as a few other items from that side of the engine. While I have found a new EVAP box and related components at another salvage yard, I had a crushed 3.4 diagnosis box to deal with.

My plan is to add a OBDII port inside, but figured this box will come in handy for timing and such... at least it was necessary on the 3.0.

Question: I have heard that an OBDII port is an OBDII port. Any truth to that? I need to find one at the salvage yard and thought I'd just look for one in any vehicle. Anyone know what years and up I should start looking? '96 and up maybe?

So, I took a closer look at the difference between the 3.0 box and the 3.4 box. Turns out they are pretty similiar, as most items involved with this swap.

The layout of the 3.4 box:

The layout of the 3.0 box:

As one can sort of make out from the pics, the connections and basic layout between the two are almost identical. The 3.4 has a few more options, but very close.

I transfered the B+, TE1, E1 and IG leads from the 3.4 harness to my almost undamaged 3.0 diagnosis box. I had a few 3.4 wires left, but didn't bother connecting them. I left them hanging instead and can join them later if I find it necessary to do so.

At least I have a usable box for now, with the connections accessible for timing and other procedures in the future. Plus the lid diagram is still correct

:

Hopefully the rain will die down a bit and I can start working on relocating the battery. I plan to build my own tray, so we'll see how that works out.

fillsrunner4 · 11-30-2007, 09:41 PM

Ya i bought my headers from performance products and didnt get the right year without the egr. i did notice after the fact that they mention what come with and without it. I should have just called them yet performance products had a good deal on them at the time.

fillsrunner4 · 11-30-2007, 09:44 PM

the obdII is a plug you can buy. you can take it from any model but youll want the pins for it. I bought mine from a site i dont remember and it came with the female and 10 pins. it only takes 4 wires to connect and make work

**Elvota** · 11-30-2007, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillsrunner4

the obdII is a plug you can buy. you can take it from any model but youll want the pins for it. I bought mine from a site i dont remember and it came with the female and 10 pins. it only takes 4 wires to connect and make work

Thanks. I look around. Hadn't thought about going new for that part. I do know the connections I need from the 3.4 electronics, so I'll just have to put all that together now.

fillsrunner4 · 11-30-2007, 10:00 PM

a new one plus shipping cost me $11 so not too bad. i did have troubles with shipping cause of usps but that wasnt the companies fault. the site was www.carplugs.com they sell the plug and pins for the OBDII. as for the schematics which youll need for the exact year make model check out https://techinfo.toyota.com/ youll have to pay by day or month hell even year but in one day you can get tons and tons of info for everything imaginable for you and this swap. save and print it all

**Elvota** · 12-01-2007, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillsrunner4

a new one plus shipping cost me $11 so not too bad. i did have troubles with shipping cause of usps but that wasnt the companies fault. the site was www.carplugs.com they sell the plug and pins for the OBDII. as for the schematics which youll need for the exact year make model check out https://techinfo.toyota.com/ youll have to pay by day or month hell even year but in one day you can get tons and tons of info for everything imaginable for you and this swap. save and print it all

Thanks for the OBDII tip. So... do I want a male or female plug? Probably doesn't really matter.

I signed on to the TIS website before I started this swap. You are right, a very important site to gain lot's of information. Has really helped me figure out the wiring and related.

111db · 12-01-2007, 09:24 AM

Can't believe I've missed this thread. Good to see the swap is well underway, Steve. If you need a hand stuffing the new engine in, give me a shout! I love that stuff. And of course I have a stock 97 3.4 for reference anytime if needed.

So... seeing the status, guess it would be tough to lead Frank and me on 404 tomorrow, huh?

**Elvota** · 12-01-2007, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 111db

So... seeing the status, guess it would be tough to lead Frank and me on 404 tomorrow, huh?

That would be tough... maybe you can tow me through.

With all this rain, the area should be really cool. I am looking forward to getting this project done and back out on the trails again ASAP.

fillsrunner4 · 12-01-2007, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

Thanks for the OBDII tip. So... do I want a male or female plug? Probably doesn't really matter.

I signed on to the TIS website before I started this swap. You are right, a very important site to gain lot's of information. Has really helped me figure out the wiring and related.

Your gonna want the female plug as the male is what all obdII connectors are.

Its funny your having to work in the rain cause im in seattle and deal with that, cold, and now a bit of snow haha

good times.

Ive almost got mine up and running after my swap seems that my MAF and intake temp sensor are done. This is the only code im throwing so hopefully this week ill be done with mine and ready to roll. Btw i also have to build my tranny tunnel after my flatbelly and add some new seats and i should be good to go

this all is gonna be done in the rain or snow aswell so i feel your pain

**Elvota** · 12-02-2007, 12:52 AM

Working on finalizing the wiring today and came across a question... maybe someone will know the answer.

From the 3.4 ECM, I have a wire that wants to go to the "malfunction indicator lamp [comb. meter]".

Now, I also have a wire from the 3.4 ECM that wants to go to "bulb check relay [comb. meter]"

They are two completely different wires at two completely different pins on the 3.4 ECM plug.

The catch is I can only find a lead for the "check engine" bulb at the comb meter coming from the 3.0. I cannot locate a relay lead. My guess is that the 3.0 might not have a check bulb relay... only the bulb itself.

My plan is to connect the 3.4 lead looking for the "indicator lamp" to the "check engine" lead from the 3.0. I'd just leave the 3.4 lead looking for the bulb check relay disconnected.

Thoughts, ideas, comments....

**Elvota** · 12-02-2007, 04:17 PM

Few more things checked off the list today.

Got the harness fully reassembled. Major chore.

This will be news to no one... but make sure you get a unmolested harness if at all possible. That said, I have learned a heck of a lot about this 3.4 and it's wiring, so maybe not all bad.

Much better:

I'll post up some tips of what I did connection wise when I know what works and what doesn't. So far, I haven't been forced to make any guesses in regards to wiring connections or how the 3.4 ECM will tie into the 4Runner, so am as confident as possible that things are going well. It's amazing how similiar the model years are. 85% of the wires are the same color from each motor. I also have a good handle on wiring diagrams now. Before all this, they just looked like jumbled modern art to me.

My motor mounts should be in Tuesday so I can drop the 3.4 in place and starting doing final routing and connections. Slowly moving forward...

11-30-2007, 09:26 PM	#55 (permalink)
Elvota Super Moderator Staff Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,442	Fuel Line Redirect Got a few things done today. Pretty much has been raining since noon... so couldn't get to the truck itself. Shouldn't' complain, I can remember Breknraj completing this swap under a tarp in 12 inches of snow. Started moving around the fuel lines from the PS to the DS. Just like Fallman had recommended, you can rotate the 3.4 supply line pretty easily. Just loosen the banjo bolt at the end of the fuel rail and give it a twirl. Something like this: Of course, I don't have it in the truck yet... but it seems plenty long enough to reach the factory 3.0 hardline and the ends are compatible. No adapters or couplers should be required. Also re-routed the return line. Original position (rubber hose curved in foreground): This took slightly more work, but was pretty straightforward. Just rotate the rubber U-bend and cut off one of the hardline brackets. The remaining bracket bolts perfectly to an existing hole in the intake. The bracket and hardline are pretty easy to tweak and get things where you need them. End result: You can now see the return heading to the PS and ready to be connected. I'll just tie this one into the existing 3.0 return line as well with some extra fuel grade hose. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY Last edited by Elvota : 12-07-2007 at 05:42 PM.

11-30-2007, 09:39 PM	#56 (permalink)
Elvota Super Moderator Staff Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,442	Diagnosis Box Repair My 3.4 donor had been hit pretty hard on the DS front fender, and that took the EVAP box as well as a few other items from that side of the engine. While I have found a new EVAP box and related components at another salvage yard, I had a crushed 3.4 diagnosis box to deal with. My plan is to add a OBDII port inside, but figured this box will come in handy for timing and such... at least it was necessary on the 3.0. Question: I have heard that an OBDII port is an OBDII port. Any truth to that? I need to find one at the salvage yard and thought I'd just look for one in any vehicle. Anyone know what years and up I should start looking? '96 and up maybe? So, I took a closer look at the difference between the 3.0 box and the 3.4 box. Turns out they are pretty similiar, as most items involved with this swap. The layout of the 3.4 box: The layout of the 3.0 box: As one can sort of make out from the pics, the connections and basic layout between the two are almost identical. The 3.4 has a few more options, but very close. I transfered the B+, TE1, E1 and IG leads from the 3.4 harness to my almost undamaged 3.0 diagnosis box. I had a few 3.4 wires left, but didn't bother connecting them. I left them hanging instead and can join them later if I find it necessary to do so. At least I have a usable box for now, with the connections accessible for timing and other procedures in the future. Plus the lid diagram is still correct : Hopefully the rain will die down a bit and I can start working on relocating the battery. I plan to build my own tray, so we'll see how that works out. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY Last edited by Elvota : 12-07-2007 at 05:44 PM.

11-30-2007, 09:41 PM	#57 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	Ya i bought my headers from performance products and didnt get the right year without the egr. i did notice after the fact that they mention what come with and without it. I should have just called them yet performance products had a good deal on them at the time. __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

11-30-2007, 09:44 PM	#58 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	the obdII is a plug you can buy. you can take it from any model but youll want the pins for it. I bought mine from a site i dont remember and it came with the female and 10 pins. it only takes 4 wires to connect and make work __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

11-30-2007, 10:00 PM	#60 (permalink)
fillsrunner4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Sammamish, wa Posts: 2,363	a new one plus shipping cost me $11 so not too bad. i did have troubles with shipping cause of usps but that wasnt the companies fault. the site was www.carplugs.com they sell the plug and pins for the OBDII. as for the schematics which youll need for the exact year make model check out https://techinfo.toyota.com/ youll have to pay by day or month hell even year but in one day you can get tons and tons of info for everything imaginable for you and this swap. save and print it all __________________ 94' toyota 4runner (Many a change!) purchased bone stock, NOW... SAS, 37x14" Iroks, Rear Leafs, 5.29's , Air locked front, Welded rear, 4.3L, Chevy V6 , 5spd swapped, dual T/C's MC10R10, flatbelly with custom skids, sliders, and so much more. Might as well start reading this if ya want know more Fillsrunner4 3.4crawler Build Thread Fillsrunner4.3 crawler (Part Two) build thread

12-01-2007, 09:24 AM	#62 (permalink)
111db Registered User Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Mesa AZ Posts: 1,195	Can't believe I've missed this thread. Good to see the swap is well underway, Steve. If you need a hand stuffing the new engine in, give me a shout! I love that stuff. And of course I have a stock 97 3.4 for reference anytime if needed. So... seeing the status, guess it would be tough to lead Frank and me on 404 tomorrow, huh? __________________ Jon *97 4Runner 3.4 4.88's * ARB Lockers F/R * ARB compressor * Sonoran Steel numba 1 * 285 BFG AT/KO * TJM 17 * BudBuilt Skids * Stubbs Sliders & BBQ sauce * Irbis out back * Various Electronic Gadgets**

12-02-2007, 12:52 AM	#65 (permalink)
Elvota Super Moderator Staff Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,442	Working on finalizing the wiring today and came across a question... maybe someone will know the answer. From the 3.4 ECM, I have a wire that wants to go to the "malfunction indicator lamp [comb. meter]". Now, I also have a wire from the 3.4 ECM that wants to go to "bulb check relay [comb. meter]" They are two completely different wires at two completely different pins on the 3.4 ECM plug. The catch is I can only find a lead for the "check engine" bulb at the comb meter coming from the 3.0. I cannot locate a relay lead. My guess is that the 3.0 might not have a check bulb relay... only the bulb itself. My plan is to connect the 3.4 lead looking for the "indicator lamp" to the "check engine" lead from the 3.0. I'd just leave the 3.4 lead looking for the bulb check relay disconnected. Thoughts, ideas, comments.... __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY

12-02-2007, 04:17 PM	#66 (permalink)
Elvota Super Moderator Staff Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,442	Few more things checked off the list today. Got the harness fully reassembled. Major chore. This will be news to no one... but make sure you get a unmolested harness if at all possible. That said, I have learned a heck of a lot about this 3.4 and it's wiring, so maybe not all bad. Much better: I'll post up some tips of what I did connection wise when I know what works and what doesn't. So far, I haven't been forced to make any guesses in regards to wiring connections or how the 3.4 ECM will tie into the 4Runner, so am as confident as possible that things are going well. It's amazing how similiar the model years are. 85% of the wires are the same color from each motor. I also have a good handle on wiring diagrams now. Before all this, they just looked like jumbled modern art to me. My motor mounts should be in Tuesday so I can drop the 3.4 in place and starting doing final routing and connections. Slowly moving forward... __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY Last edited by Elvota : 12-28-2007 at 04:13 PM.