Oregon'sLoneWolf

I am going over some ECU functions that are abbreviated and I'm wondering what they might be.

Does somebody know of a sheet that has the functions of a wire clearly defined? Google is not my friend today.

Thanks.

SacRunner

In most cases the function can be inferred from the abbreviation, though they can be tricky. What abbreviations are you having trouble with?

To address your exact question, no, I don't think Toyota published such a document. Keep in mind these EWDs were designed for mechanics/technicians at the various dealer repair facilities to assist with repairs, not necessarily for any sort of reverse-engineering (which IS what we're doing with this swap) of the systems.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Hey Wallace, Yeah, I had searched and searched and no go.

I am trying to narrow down the ignition pins in plug E5. My plug lock didn't work well as there are a couple brown wires in there that seem to be larger than the rest that seem to be binding on the lock.

I have of course narrowed down the IGT 1, 2 and 3 being the ignition for each bank and 3 being the ground.

The first one is FC, which I would guess is the fuel control. ?
The Second one is IDLO
and the others are #20, #30, #40, #50 and #60 and IGF

Besides that, I have a brown wire with silver dots on it that is loose in the plug. It looks like it might be one the IGT wires but I don't show a wire on the sheet that is brown and silver. It must just be a faded yellow marking.

And just wondering about the ECU being grounded. Did you ground yours? Mine is just sitting there as I thought the ground wires were inside. However, I am guessing just a wire on a screw at the ECU box to a screw hole on the frame would be enough. I just don't want to fry anything.

SacRunner

Since it's late, I'll do the easy ones for now....

IGF = IGnigtion Fault - the control signal from the igniter to the ECU to indicate any problem.

#10, #20, #30, etc. = are the control (on/off) signals from the ECU to each of the fuel injectors (#10 is cylinder 1, #20 is cylinder 2, etc).

Then for the ECU grounding, I added my own ground to the assortment of GND signals being tied together in my conversion harness and attached it at the ECU mount (the mounting bolt and this extra ground were always attached to the kick panel even when the ECU was just sitting on the floor).

SacRunner

The larger brown wires in the E5 connector are going to be high(er) current grounds and very much need to make good contact between the pins of the ECU and chassis ground. It may take some finesse to get the wires to seat correctly. I don't recommend it, but I used some needle nose pliers to re-crimp those larger wires/terminals to fit into the plastic housings easier, but I also had issues with loose connections b/c of it (then had to hot-glue the wires in the connector housings).

IDLO is a part of the Cruise Control circuit and I didn't connect (as I ditched my cruise control).

As far as I could tell, the Brown wires with silver dots are the same as simple brown wires, i.e. grounds. I'm sure there was a reason for the silver dots, but I never figured it out.

BTW, all the BR (brown) and W-B (white-black) wires are all grounds, and could all be tied together wherever convenient, or just be sure to attach them to chassis ground. Ultimately there is only one ground and it's the "-" post of the battery, the body, frame and engine should all be connected to that battery post.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Thanks for taking the time so late. Yup, looks like my problem is def with the E5 plug then. I'll pull the harness plugs from the cab and work on that plug again tomorrow. I"m going to have to call the brown wires my problem children. Am I understanding you correctly that essentially, if I can't get the brown wires to go in, just solder them all together and ground to the body as I have a 8ga wire from batt neg to body? The glue gun idea might come in handy. Thanks again.........I"m not giving up on this paperweight yet.

SacRunner

All the brown wires need to be plugged into the ECU....no exceptions, if they don't go in, keep trying, they must be connected.

What I'm trying to say, is that all the brown wires from the 3.4 engine harness need to be connected to all the brown wires from the 3.0 dash harness, and then I added an extra wire to ground all of those, just in case it wasn't grounded somewhere else.

The wiring can be completely confusing, but it's not THAT bad (I've done much more complicated stuff), we'll get you going sooner or later.

Oregon'sLoneWolf

Thanks. I got the wires all into the correct slots and the plug lock snapped into place and slid into the plug fine I hope with all wires still locked into place. As far as grounding the ECU to the body I didn't do that. Can I just get two ring terminals one screwed to the ECU and the other to the body at the bracket mounting hole? For now it is still just laying there.

cr@ves4wheelin

You don't need to ground the ECU Body. The ground points for the ECU itself and the sensors will go to specific ground points, through the Brown ground wires, as you will find in your EWD.