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iTrader: (1)

Hey all. My name is Ben. I'm a junior at the University of Arkansas. I have been researching/dreaming about this build for about 6 months now. I used the have an 89 truck with a 22re. Woof. Talk about a dog. I got tired of trying to drive that truck around the hilly NWA terrain so I sold it in hopes of quickly buying a 1st gen 3.0 5speed 4runner then swapping in a 3.4. theMonch's build was my inspiration. In the in between time I decided to buy a 50cc yamaha zuma. I thought my 22re was bad. I was wrong. For my sake, please dont ever try to ride a 50cc scoot up a hill. Any hoot, I looked around for a 4runner for about 6months until I finally found one. Unfortunately it didnt run but the only places it has rust is where there the paint is scratched. After that I somehow found a rolled 96 4runner for 1200 bucks tens minutes away from my house. Once I bought it I had to wait till finals were over until I could start. Here is a quick rundown of how much money I've spent.

High lift jack 50
Chain, bolts, misc hardware 50
Clutch, belts, flywheel, battery wire 467.42
Hoist, stand, other harbor freight bs 267.56
Fuel relay 50
New Plugs 33.64
Roger Brown Body Lift, hardware, bumper bracket 103
Crossover 280 (I still need to return my core)
Oil baffle, dipstick, union, etc 156
Rolled 96 4runner 1200
88 4runner 1800
97 ecu 100
Ebay Intake 45
Total 4602.62
Hopefully I can recoup about 1300 bucks from returning some stuff and parting out the 96.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6545333911/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6545223401/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6545229221/

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iTrader: (1)

My dad drove down from KC to help get both of the engines out. I seriously underestimated how time consuming that would be. My only experience wrenching was doing some repairs on my truck. My dad doesnt have too much experience either but he is one of those guys who wont stop until he has something figured out. This has been a huge learning experience for the both of us. We labeled all of the vacuum hoses but for some reason did not photograph/label any plugs. Oh well. I have the wiring diagrams in case I cant figure one out. Pulling each engine took about 6-8hours. We pulled the 3.0 first. I installed the 1" BL and got to all but one of the bellhousing bolts easily. We used about 3' of extensions and got to the last one. After that it should have come out. We could not figure out why it wouldn't come out though. Well the FSM only has instructions on how to take the engine and tranny as a whole. So it didn't mention anything about taking the starter off. After some head scratching we got that one figured out. After we got it on the stand we called it a night. Day 2 started with moving the 96 partially into the garage. This was kind of hard because it only has three wheels. We solved that by sticking a 2x6 underneath the wheel hub (??) and put it in 4 low. That worked. Then we had to get the bellhousing bolts off. What a PITA. Since the body was junk, we unbolted the body and used the hi-lift to jack the body off the frame. It made getting the bolts off immensely easier and the engine mounts were a breeze. After we got the engine out, we had to somehow get the 96 out of the garage. So we did what any sensible afro engineer would do. We pulled out some tow rope and hooked it up to my dads camry. Got that bad boy out of there.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6545237653/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6545235707/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6545222573/

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iTrader: (1)

I havent done much. I need to go buy some acetone for the oil pan gasket. I got the tach mod done. Also switched out the ac compressor plates. That was a pain. Those allen bolts were torqed down on there. Hopefully I got it back on just as tight. I'll update more later. I'm stealing theMonch's picture of his tach mod because I forgot to take one and I have the old style SR5 cluster. I am also getting my repinning done. I have to change the ecu plugs from a 96 to a 97 and then I have to do my body plugs. Why do most people do a harness instead of just cutting the plugs off of one of the two and repin it? I dont know if that makes sense.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6545470103/http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6545238649/

sam4runner

iTrader: (1)

Hey looks like you have a good start on everything. That 4runner looks way nice, good find.

As far as the wiring goes from what I have done and seen most just cut the two body harness plugs off of the 3.0 engine harness and either unpin or solder the wires from the two 3.4 body plugs to the corresponding spots on the 3.0 plugs.

On my first swap I just unpinned and re pinned all the wires. It wasn't hard and made the harness relatively clean. On my last two I went the cut and solder route. I like this way a bit better because I can extended all the wires to the same length, also a couple of the wires you need to run one to two places which made this easier to make nice. Either way is effective but just personal preference I guess.

What are you going to do as far as the hood? I am in the middle of swapping a 3.4 into my 89 1st gen and think I am going to just make different motor mounts to lower the motor in there. I am doing SAS as well so I can lower it quite a bit. Just curious, Keep up the great work.

bend

iTrader: (1)

Well hopefully I will just have to cut hood bracing and not the actual hood. I'm not too attached to that hood though. The clear coat is gone in some places. I'm having some trouble getting the dipstick plug out. Got any suggestions? I've tried hammering but that plug is soft and it takes the shape of whatever I'm pounding.

sam4runner

iTrader: (1)

What I did is I put a pair of vise grips on it and basically turned it to break it loose. Then had the pan off and hit it upward out. Some of them are tough.

bend

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I got it out. I was just being a pansy when I was hitting it.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

A 1" body lift will make life easier later for clearances, dual cases and such, and you won't have to cut hood.

Why are you switching 96 to 97 plugs? 97 plugs are different from all the rest.
Jon does all our wiring and he swaps plugs out and repins after stripping the harness of useless crap. When he's done it's BETTER than factory IMO.

Hoping to start on my 88 4Runner 3.4 swap after the new year.

:wabbit2:

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iTrader: (1)

Good news on the hood. I wasn't one hundred percent sure if 1" was enough. I did the 97 plugs because I had the part numbers readily available (Dntsdad FAQ). Are you saying I would have to buy new plugs if I switched to a 96 manual? Thanks

dntsdad

the 96 and 97 are the same

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iTrader: (1)

I need to search this more but this doesnt look right. I've read of mounts not lining up but people made it sound like the hole didnt line up, not like there wasnt anything underneath the mount.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6556161499/

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iTrader: (1)

Well I went home for a week or so and now I'm back. Just spent 6ish hours getting the damn engine to mate with the tranny. Got it done around 4 am. Gotta love being in college. Finally pushed the hoist towards the 4runner and it aligned it. What a pita.so far that has been the hardest thing in the swap. I dont think I will be able to work on her much for a week or so which is a let down because I'm on the home stretch. Oh well.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Hey there Arkie! I know you aren't working on your runner tonight due to some kind of football game Looks like good work you are doing. Wish we were a bit closer.

bend

iTrader: (1)

Haha yep. Watching it right now. It is driving me crazy. It would be nice to have a hand to help out.

bend

iTrader: (1)

This post is more for me so I dont lose these links. They are ac related links.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51497903
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...l#post51513024
https://www.yotatech.com/51332750-post181.html

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#ManualTranny
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post51653731
https://www.yotatech.com/885733-post37.html
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115...-block-147033/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-relay-135856/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/w...use-box-25293/
http://www.4runners.org/
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/4Runner/tech/chargeguard/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51695097

https://www.yotatech.com/50685251-post76.html

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...l#post51042570

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51863274
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...sh-pad-251930/

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iTrader: (1)

Okay I have a mystery wire. It looks like it might go to the ac comp but I'm not sure. Its green with a black stripe. Here are some pics.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6698128165/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6698129475/

bend

iTrader: (1)

Also, any idea on what the ribbed one is? And what do I need to do with the starter relay?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/72500733@N02/6698639277/

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Is that off the engine harness or the body harness? I can't find anything in your '88 EWD that is green-black going to A/C. I see a green/black going to a vacuum switch nearby.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

This is from a '98 EWD. Looks like A/C Magnetic Clutch wire

bend

iTrader: (1)

Found my answer. The ribbed thing can be removed. Not 100% sure on my starter relay though.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...runner-239021/