96 Auto meet 91 Manual...
09-04-2012, 04:15 PM
#41
Registered User
I know that I sound like a parrot or a broken record on this as I say this same thing in threads like this but have you check the condition of the plugs into the components rather than the components themselves.
For example, the plug for the ignitor is notorious for having loose connections. I believe Evoltra among others have had that issues where a single wire in the plug was not making contact and thus resulting in a no start situation. The most common one that I have read about is the brown wire closest to the air box for the ignitor plug. Similar experiences on the MAF as well.
I am not sure, because I have never had to look, but is there a troubleshooting flowchart in the FSM for no spark conditions. A run down of what to check??
For example, the plug for the ignitor is notorious for having loose connections. I believe Evoltra among others have had that issues where a single wire in the plug was not making contact and thus resulting in a no start situation. The most common one that I have read about is the brown wire closest to the air box for the ignitor plug. Similar experiences on the MAF as well.
I am not sure, because I have never had to look, but is there a troubleshooting flowchart in the FSM for no spark conditions. A run down of what to check??
Last edited by dntsdad; 09-06-2012 at 05:20 AM.
09-05-2012, 08:32 AM
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
That's a good point, I hadn't thought to look at the connectors themselves.
And yes, the FSM has a section on diagnosing a "No initial combustion (does not start)" condition, and the three steps it has are to check the ECU power source circuit, fuel pump control circuit, and the ECM itself, with links/references to other sections in the FSM to dig deeper into debugging. I also managed to find most of the diagnosis/test procedures for all the various components (including the ECM) to measure voltages and resistance and under what conditions those components need to be in to take the measurement.
Now, I just need to find some free time to attack it with a meter.
And yes, the FSM has a section on diagnosing a "No initial combustion (does not start)" condition, and the three steps it has are to check the ECU power source circuit, fuel pump control circuit, and the ECM itself, with links/references to other sections in the FSM to dig deeper into debugging. I also managed to find most of the diagnosis/test procedures for all the various components (including the ECM) to measure voltages and resistance and under what conditions those components need to be in to take the measurement.
Now, I just need to find some free time to attack it with a meter.
09-23-2012, 11:03 PM
#43
Registered User
Thread Starter
Its alive!!!...finally.
As a piece of advice to anyone reading this, never underestimate your ability to make extremely stupid mistakes.
After a weekend of chasing every wire that touches the ECU (on the "other" end not at the ECU itself but at the connector that attaches to the sensors, igniter, injectors, etc) and finding 2-3 circuits that didn't meet the spec as outlined in the FSM, I concluded that my 96 4Runner junkyard ECU must be shot.
Last Saturday I swung by LTS in Rancho (one of the many Toyota yards outside of Sacramento; the one I got the 2nd/current motor from) and picked up a 97 4Runner 4x4 M/T ECU and try it out. Exact same outcome as the 96 ECU, turns over just fine, no start, no check engine light, etc. As I start digging deeper, I realize I had the E5 (A) and E8 (D) connectors wired backwards....D'OH!!!
Toyota numbers pins in their connectors 1-whatever with pin 1 in the upper left corner, if you hold the connector as if you were to plug it into your eye. At work, we spec all pin numbers from the wiring side (the opposite side from how Toyota does it). Somewhere in my re-pinning of A/T to M/T connectors, I must have swapped my numbering conventions....again, never underestimate the simple stuff.
Anyways, 2 new connectors and about 20 minutes re-re-pinning the connectors and I plugged them into the "new" 97 ECU, it was time to turn the key again and see what new surprises await me. I turn the key and nothing....just another WTF moment, until I look over and see the COR sitting loose on the floorboard (from debugging; so that I'm not dumping gas as I check for spark). Plug the COR back in, turn the key and it roars to life.
It's about as loud as it possibly can be, I have absolutely no exhaust; I have the ToyOnlySwap crossover attached to about 6" of the down pipe before the first O2 sensor then a flexible exhaust pipe turned down 90* (no cat, no O2s, no muffler). Despite the noise and the inevitably pissed off neighbors, I sit there and rev it up a few times...because I can, and the tach seems to be correct, reading what I would consider normal (idling right at or just below 1,000 rpm, hit the gas pedal and rev it up, tach runs smoothly to about 3,000 and drops as expected).
The header paint on the crossover and manifolds smoked pretty good as it baked on, it's to be expected, but I didn't expect it so that was a little bit of a freak-out moment. I think I may have an issue with my IAC (Idle Air Control) it seems to vibrate quite a bit at idle, which I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be, and I'm getting a P0505 error code, but I don't have either O2 connected, nor do I have either of the A/C lines connected.
All that means is more debugging and more reading, check back in about 3 weeks (after a 2 week vacation) to see what I find. Thanks again to YT and everyone for all the help and info, I definitely would not have undertaken a project of this magnitude without your help.
PS, sorry no pictures or videos.
As a piece of advice to anyone reading this, never underestimate your ability to make extremely stupid mistakes.
After a weekend of chasing every wire that touches the ECU (on the "other" end not at the ECU itself but at the connector that attaches to the sensors, igniter, injectors, etc) and finding 2-3 circuits that didn't meet the spec as outlined in the FSM, I concluded that my 96 4Runner junkyard ECU must be shot.
Last Saturday I swung by LTS in Rancho (one of the many Toyota yards outside of Sacramento; the one I got the 2nd/current motor from) and picked up a 97 4Runner 4x4 M/T ECU and try it out. Exact same outcome as the 96 ECU, turns over just fine, no start, no check engine light, etc. As I start digging deeper, I realize I had the E5 (A) and E8 (D) connectors wired backwards....D'OH!!!
Toyota numbers pins in their connectors 1-whatever with pin 1 in the upper left corner, if you hold the connector as if you were to plug it into your eye. At work, we spec all pin numbers from the wiring side (the opposite side from how Toyota does it). Somewhere in my re-pinning of A/T to M/T connectors, I must have swapped my numbering conventions....again, never underestimate the simple stuff.
Anyways, 2 new connectors and about 20 minutes re-re-pinning the connectors and I plugged them into the "new" 97 ECU, it was time to turn the key again and see what new surprises await me. I turn the key and nothing....just another WTF moment, until I look over and see the COR sitting loose on the floorboard (from debugging; so that I'm not dumping gas as I check for spark). Plug the COR back in, turn the key and it roars to life.
It's about as loud as it possibly can be, I have absolutely no exhaust; I have the ToyOnlySwap crossover attached to about 6" of the down pipe before the first O2 sensor then a flexible exhaust pipe turned down 90* (no cat, no O2s, no muffler). Despite the noise and the inevitably pissed off neighbors, I sit there and rev it up a few times...because I can, and the tach seems to be correct, reading what I would consider normal (idling right at or just below 1,000 rpm, hit the gas pedal and rev it up, tach runs smoothly to about 3,000 and drops as expected).
The header paint on the crossover and manifolds smoked pretty good as it baked on, it's to be expected, but I didn't expect it so that was a little bit of a freak-out moment. I think I may have an issue with my IAC (Idle Air Control) it seems to vibrate quite a bit at idle, which I'm pretty sure it shouldn't be, and I'm getting a P0505 error code, but I don't have either O2 connected, nor do I have either of the A/C lines connected.
All that means is more debugging and more reading, check back in about 3 weeks (after a 2 week vacation) to see what I find. Thanks again to YT and everyone for all the help and info, I definitely would not have undertaken a project of this magnitude without your help.
PS, sorry no pictures or videos.
10-25-2012, 12:32 PM
#44
Registered User
Thread Starter
Location of cat and O2 sensors?
Does anyone remember (or willing to go measure) where the two O2 sensors and catalytic converter need to be for a 96/97 4Runner 3.4 to pass SMOG in CA? I'm looking for how far from the cross over is the first O2 sensor, then how far back from that is the cat, and how far back from that is the second O2 sensor.
I have a call in to the SMOG Ref to get the measurements directly from him, but figured I'd try this approach as well. If all goes well, I should be going in to get the exhaust done Saturday morning.
I have a call in to the SMOG Ref to get the measurements directly from him, but figured I'd try this approach as well. If all goes well, I should be going in to get the exhaust done Saturday morning.
11-05-2012, 07:44 PM
#47
Registered User
Thread Starter
After a rather disappointing phone call with the smog ref (he didn't have the exact measurements I was looking for) I took dntsdad's picture of the stock 97 exhaust with measurements, https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51695097, to the muffler shop and had a new exhaust put together. 2 new Toyota style 02 sensor flanges, a new CA approved cat, cleaned up some of the previous exhaust work and moved the whole system up to match the 1.5" body lift.
Needless to say, with the fresh new exhaust installed I decided to drive around town to get a feel for things. And I must say, its such a great feeling driving around a truck that you've basically rebuild from the ground up (twice, no less), AND the fact that the truck hadn't been driven at all for the past year.
Anyway, back at home it was time to button up a few last things, mount the vapor pressure sensor to the firewall, shorten a couple of vacuum hoses, re-install the front drive shaft and swaybar, and put the hood back on.
At this point I decided to test the 4WD; I kept all the ADD VSVs for 2WD and 4WD as well as the connection for the dash light. After locking the hubs, I shift into 4HI, the dash light turns on right away, so to test I drive forward a few feet and turn the wheel. Almost instantly, I feel the usual binding/resistance in the front end when trying to turn on dry pavement; 4WD works!
Next up was the A/C, wired per vasinvictor's how to (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...4-swap-251179/), hit the dash button, the idle drops a bit, and cold air comes out the vents. I then got out and checked the compressor, the whole pulley assembly is spinning, turn the A/C off, and recheck the compressor, only the outer pulley is spinning, just as expected. The only hiccup at this point is that it idles around 500 rpm with the A/C on, so I'll need to go find the amplifier and adjust the idle speed.
I am still throwing a couple of codes, P0505 (Idle air control) and P0125 (coolant temp too low for closed loop). I still need to dig a little deeper into the P0505 code before I pull the IACV off and clean it out. As for the P0125, my current though is that the exhaust shop swapped the front and rear 02 sensor. I've seen threads that imply the code can be from a bad coolant temp sensor but when I've had the OBD-II reader hooked up, it looks as though the coolant temp is right around where it should be, 189-195F once the engine is warm.
I'm also getting a bit of a vibrating sound from around the EVAP canister (could be coincidence) routinely was I get over 45 mph and it doesn't stop until I drop below 35-40 mph. I still need to look into the various manuals, but I'm thinking one of the VSVs may be bad and the ECU is trying to run an EVAP test; that 45 mph seems like way too much of a coincidence; RPM seem irrelevant, I can be in 3rd, 4th, or 5th, same thing happens.
The speed sensor is wired up correctly, driving around with the OBD-II monitor displaying the current speed matches the speedometer (mechanical), one more circuit to cross of the list of conversion harness check list.
Needless to say, with the fresh new exhaust installed I decided to drive around town to get a feel for things. And I must say, its such a great feeling driving around a truck that you've basically rebuild from the ground up (twice, no less), AND the fact that the truck hadn't been driven at all for the past year.
Anyway, back at home it was time to button up a few last things, mount the vapor pressure sensor to the firewall, shorten a couple of vacuum hoses, re-install the front drive shaft and swaybar, and put the hood back on.
At this point I decided to test the 4WD; I kept all the ADD VSVs for 2WD and 4WD as well as the connection for the dash light. After locking the hubs, I shift into 4HI, the dash light turns on right away, so to test I drive forward a few feet and turn the wheel. Almost instantly, I feel the usual binding/resistance in the front end when trying to turn on dry pavement; 4WD works!
Next up was the A/C, wired per vasinvictor's how to (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...4-swap-251179/), hit the dash button, the idle drops a bit, and cold air comes out the vents. I then got out and checked the compressor, the whole pulley assembly is spinning, turn the A/C off, and recheck the compressor, only the outer pulley is spinning, just as expected. The only hiccup at this point is that it idles around 500 rpm with the A/C on, so I'll need to go find the amplifier and adjust the idle speed.
I am still throwing a couple of codes, P0505 (Idle air control) and P0125 (coolant temp too low for closed loop). I still need to dig a little deeper into the P0505 code before I pull the IACV off and clean it out. As for the P0125, my current though is that the exhaust shop swapped the front and rear 02 sensor. I've seen threads that imply the code can be from a bad coolant temp sensor but when I've had the OBD-II reader hooked up, it looks as though the coolant temp is right around where it should be, 189-195F once the engine is warm.
I'm also getting a bit of a vibrating sound from around the EVAP canister (could be coincidence) routinely was I get over 45 mph and it doesn't stop until I drop below 35-40 mph. I still need to look into the various manuals, but I'm thinking one of the VSVs may be bad and the ECU is trying to run an EVAP test; that 45 mph seems like way too much of a coincidence; RPM seem irrelevant, I can be in 3rd, 4th, or 5th, same thing happens.
The speed sensor is wired up correctly, driving around with the OBD-II monitor displaying the current speed matches the speedometer (mechanical), one more circuit to cross of the list of conversion harness check list.
11-05-2012, 07:56 PM
#48
Registered User
Thread Starter
Marlin Short Throw Shifter
And for a bit a bling...Marlin's new short throw shifter to help with the interference from the body lift:
Installation was a breeze, 4 bolts and the old shifter base (with handle still attached) was out, some Toyota FPIG (same stuff I used on the oil pan and valve covers) on the base, 4 new bolts and lock washers.
And for a bit of comparison, stock shifter:
1st
2nd
Marlin's Short Throw:
1st
2nd
It's harder to see in the pictures of 1st gear, but 2nd is very noticeable.
As for functionality, shifts are super short, so short when I was first running through the gears I was sure I wasn't in gear but the shifter wouldn't move any further. Taking it for a test drive confirmed that the I had been in gear and that the shift were now THAT much shorter. The shifts are still a bit stiffer than I would like, but I can already feel the new bushing starting to break-in and the shifts starting to feel better.
And a couple more because pictures are fun:
Installation was a breeze, 4 bolts and the old shifter base (with handle still attached) was out, some Toyota FPIG (same stuff I used on the oil pan and valve covers) on the base, 4 new bolts and lock washers.
And for a bit of comparison, stock shifter:
1st
2nd
Marlin's Short Throw:
1st
2nd
It's harder to see in the pictures of 1st gear, but 2nd is very noticeable.
As for functionality, shifts are super short, so short when I was first running through the gears I was sure I wasn't in gear but the shifter wouldn't move any further. Taking it for a test drive confirmed that the I had been in gear and that the shift were now THAT much shorter. The shifts are still a bit stiffer than I would like, but I can already feel the new bushing starting to break-in and the shifts starting to feel better.
And a couple more because pictures are fun:
Last edited by SacRunner; 11-28-2012 at 07:50 PM.
11-10-2012, 02:30 PM
#49
Registered User
Nice thread, this is the first time I have read it.
Have you gotten your rig smogged yet?
Good looking truck!
Have you gotten your rig smogged yet?
Good looking truck!
Last edited by ztbailey1; 11-10-2012 at 07:16 PM.
11-11-2012, 05:51 PM
#50
Registered User
Thread Starter
Nope, I haven't gone in to get it SMOGed yet, I still have a couple of check engine lights to get cleared up and still need to run through all the monitor tests (OBD-II stuff).
I was able to get the P0125 code cleared up, turns out the exhaust shop swapped the two O2 sensors (had the rear in front and front in rear). I swapped them around, cleared the code and drove it around for an hour or so turning the motor off and restarted every now and again and the P0125 code never came back; the P0505 is still there though.
As for the P0505, I pulled the throttle body and will be pulling off and cleaning the idle air control valve to see if that fixes the problem.
I was able to get the P0125 code cleared up, turns out the exhaust shop swapped the two O2 sensors (had the rear in front and front in rear). I swapped them around, cleared the code and drove it around for an hour or so turning the motor off and restarted every now and again and the P0125 code never came back; the P0505 is still there though.
As for the P0505, I pulled the throttle body and will be pulling off and cleaning the idle air control valve to see if that fixes the problem.
11-12-2012, 03:02 PM
#51
Registered User
Right on. Hope the codes don't give you too much trouble.
And Congrats on getting this thing running after two rebuilds.
I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread for my swap.
And Congrats on getting this thing running after two rebuilds.
I'll be keeping a close eye on this thread for my swap.
01-27-2013, 08:47 PM
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
So for another long overdue update, over the last 2-3 months I've put in maybe 5 or 6 good days working on the truck with varying degrees of success and set-backs.
While chasing down that P0505 code I managed do something that caused the engine to die almost instantly after starting. Having read through enough threads, my first thought is MAF. After a couple days wiggling wires, swapping between the 96 and 97 ECUs I have, replacing the 3.4 COR and having further success and failures I had no real consistent data points to trace down what the culprit really; except for noticing the insulating on the MAF wiring had cracked and it looked like some of the wire strands may have broke too.
After a trip to the parts dept for a new MAF connector and wire terminals, I was all ready to replace the MAF connector today and see where that got me. Before doing that, I cut back some of the electrical tape I wrapped around the wires going into the ECU connectors and was able to really wiggle and push them in (grabbing bunches of wires at a time rather than individually). Sure enough it fires right up but with codes. I grab the reader, P0120 and P0505, throttle position sensor and idle air control valve.
I unplug the D ECU connector (to kill power and clear the codes), unplug and replug the other 3 connectors, wiggle all the wires again, paying special attention to those related to the TPS and IAC. It fires right up and after about 30 seconds, while expecting a code to be thrown, nothing happens, it just keeps idling. Rev the engine a couple times and it seem to rev up higher than it should, but it just sounds "healthier" than it ever had.
After a trip around the block, it threw a P0120 code, so back in the driveway I re-wiggle all the related wires. Go to start it up, fires right up and dies. For whatever reason, I start looking at the EWD for whatever signal was shared between the MAF and TPS, the BR-B, E2, GND wire. I wiggle just that one wire and push it in, ever so slightly, go back around to start it up, it fires right up and keeps going.
Even after a 10 mile trip "around the block" no codes were thrown and it drives better than it ever had. No more "popping" or backfiring between shifts or as I feathered the gas pedal. Even after the 30 mile trip from my parent's place back to mine tonight, not even the slightest hint of an issue. With that luck, I'm going to do something I haven't done in a year and a half, try my luck at DD-ing to work at least for a couple of days this week to see what other issues I can find and flush out, or hopefully see how many of the OBD-II monitors can run and maybe be able to take this in for a SMOG inspection.
To recap, all the ups and downs of the last 3 months, codes, truck running, not running, etc have all been because of a couple of loose wires inside the ECU connector. Just some advice for anyone struggling through this too, it may seem like a broken record, but check, double-check, and triple-check all the electrical connections, what may look and feel right may not be making the proper connection and causing headache after headache.
Lets see how far I can make it before needing to call AAA for a tow....
While chasing down that P0505 code I managed do something that caused the engine to die almost instantly after starting. Having read through enough threads, my first thought is MAF. After a couple days wiggling wires, swapping between the 96 and 97 ECUs I have, replacing the 3.4 COR and having further success and failures I had no real consistent data points to trace down what the culprit really; except for noticing the insulating on the MAF wiring had cracked and it looked like some of the wire strands may have broke too.
After a trip to the parts dept for a new MAF connector and wire terminals, I was all ready to replace the MAF connector today and see where that got me. Before doing that, I cut back some of the electrical tape I wrapped around the wires going into the ECU connectors and was able to really wiggle and push them in (grabbing bunches of wires at a time rather than individually). Sure enough it fires right up but with codes. I grab the reader, P0120 and P0505, throttle position sensor and idle air control valve.
I unplug the D ECU connector (to kill power and clear the codes), unplug and replug the other 3 connectors, wiggle all the wires again, paying special attention to those related to the TPS and IAC. It fires right up and after about 30 seconds, while expecting a code to be thrown, nothing happens, it just keeps idling. Rev the engine a couple times and it seem to rev up higher than it should, but it just sounds "healthier" than it ever had.
After a trip around the block, it threw a P0120 code, so back in the driveway I re-wiggle all the related wires. Go to start it up, fires right up and dies. For whatever reason, I start looking at the EWD for whatever signal was shared between the MAF and TPS, the BR-B, E2, GND wire. I wiggle just that one wire and push it in, ever so slightly, go back around to start it up, it fires right up and keeps going.
Even after a 10 mile trip "around the block" no codes were thrown and it drives better than it ever had. No more "popping" or backfiring between shifts or as I feathered the gas pedal. Even after the 30 mile trip from my parent's place back to mine tonight, not even the slightest hint of an issue. With that luck, I'm going to do something I haven't done in a year and a half, try my luck at DD-ing to work at least for a couple of days this week to see what other issues I can find and flush out, or hopefully see how many of the OBD-II monitors can run and maybe be able to take this in for a SMOG inspection.
To recap, all the ups and downs of the last 3 months, codes, truck running, not running, etc have all been because of a couple of loose wires inside the ECU connector. Just some advice for anyone struggling through this too, it may seem like a broken record, but check, double-check, and triple-check all the electrical connections, what may look and feel right may not be making the proper connection and causing headache after headache.
Lets see how far I can make it before needing to call AAA for a tow....
02-09-2013, 05:05 AM
#53
Registered User
So which ecu did you wind up using? I have the auto ECU in mine, and running a manual trans. Seems strong, even though it's pushing 4:10s and 33s. But my idle is low. I MEAN LOW; 250 RPM range after warm up idle. That's not high enough to keep the small alternator up to speed for the lights, wipers, radio, and defrost fan going. I still have the codes for no auto trans, but was curious if that could be effecting my idle.
02-09-2013, 08:20 AM
#54
Registered User
Thread Starter
So which ecu did you wind up using? I have the auto ECU in mine, and running a manual trans. Seems strong, even though it's pushing 4:10s and 33s. But my idle is low. I MEAN LOW; 250 RPM range after warm up idle. That's not high enough to keep the small alternator up to speed for the lights, wipers, radio, and defrost fan going. I still have the codes for no auto trans, but was curious if that could be effecting my idle.
There seems to be plenty of guys that have jumpered the neutral switch (or whatever is needed to trick the ECU) that don't have any problems. Are you throwing a P0505 (Idle Air Control Valve) or a P0120 (Throttle Position Sensor) code or is it just the A/T codes? Do you have a vacuum leak anywhere (spray starting fluid around all the vacuum lines and if the engine revs up, you have a leak)?
02-12-2013, 09:52 AM
#55
Registered User
do you still have the manual ecu for a 96? I'm half way in the market and the closest Yota yard to me has it for $200. I think I can do better than that. I will just get the plug ends from the dealer.
02-13-2013, 08:52 PM
#56
Registered User
Thread Starter
04-25-2013, 08:25 PM
#57
Registered User
Thread Starter
The truck's been running fine now for the last couple of months, had a smog ref visit in early Feb and failed, I was missing a ground wire in the OBD-II port that there scanner needed (but neither of my 2 scanners used...weird) and as part of the visual they grabbed the ECU and turned it over a few times to get the part number, which knocked a couple of wires loose causing the TPS and IAC signals to get lost, throw codes, all causing the motor to run a bit erratic; but otherwise he said everything looked good.
Well after a liberal application of hot glue (yes, the same stuff from the craft store) to the metal pins in the plastic connector housing (with the engine running to make sure they were in the correct position when glued) to prevent the problematic pins from moving around, it was time to set off on another round of driving.
Things went so well, that today I went and got myself a new $8.25 sticker:
The process overall, wasn't bad at all (they actually admitted that they have lightened up a lot over the last couple of years), wait 10 mins after my appointment was supposed to start while they finished the truck ahead of me, then they took mine back, and an hour and a half later brought it back with some forms to sign, the sticker and asked for the $8.25 before he let me apply the sticker (and yes, I was the genius that put it on with those air bubbles trapped inside).
Well after a liberal application of hot glue (yes, the same stuff from the craft store) to the metal pins in the plastic connector housing (with the engine running to make sure they were in the correct position when glued) to prevent the problematic pins from moving around, it was time to set off on another round of driving.
Things went so well, that today I went and got myself a new $8.25 sticker:
The process overall, wasn't bad at all (they actually admitted that they have lightened up a lot over the last couple of years), wait 10 mins after my appointment was supposed to start while they finished the truck ahead of me, then they took mine back, and an hour and a half later brought it back with some forms to sign, the sticker and asked for the $8.25 before he let me apply the sticker (and yes, I was the genius that put it on with those air bubbles trapped inside).
12-02-2013, 10:02 PM
#58
Registered User
Thread Starter
So, now that I'm SMOG-ed and have a couple thousand miles on the swap without issue and with it being fully functional (with the exception of an A/C idle up, mine blows cold as per the A/C sticky without the inverted idle up signal) I figured it I would post up the pin-outs for my conversion harness. (NOTE to guys in the future, I won't debug your swap in this thread, start a new one and I'll help out as I can.)
Now, since I didn't feel like going through the hassle of trying to figure out how to post a *.xls file or the relevant HTML code, I give you pure, simple CSV:
Copy paste the above to a text file (Notepad, TextPad, NotePad++, etc) save as a *.csv then import to your favorite spreadsheet application and format to your desire.
Now, since I didn't feel like going through the hassle of trying to figure out how to post a *.xls file or the relevant HTML code, I give you pure, simple CSV:
Code:
Connector,Pin Number,Color,Description,Connects To,
IH1,1,W-B,Transfer position switch ('-) | GND,II3.10,
IH1,2,G-W / G-Y,Transfer position switch (+),"IH2.2
II3.17",
IH1,3,V,"ECU ""W"" pin 5",E8(D).4,
IH1,4,'-,'-,'-,
IH1,5,G-W,"ECU ""STP"" pin 6",E8(D).20,
IH1,6,L,"Check Connector ""FP"" pin 1 (allows the FP to be manually turned on) NOT NEEDED WITH 3.4 COR",N/C,
IH1,7,'-,'-,'-,
IH1,8,R-Y / B-R,"C1 Check connector pin 16 '- ABS ""TS""",II1.9,ONLY II1 connection!!!
IH1,9,L'-B / Y-B,"C1 Check connector pin 15/11 '- ABS ""T"" and Cruise Control ""TC""",II3.23,
IH1,10,B-G,"ECU ""BATT"" pin 1",E8(D).2,
IH1,11,'-,'-,'-,
IH1,12,'-,'-,'-,
IH1,13,'-,'-,'-,
IH1,14,B-R,E18 (Injectors 1'-6 | Ignition coil (+) | Igniter pin 3),II3.8,
IH1,15,B,'-,'-,
IH1,16,W-R,ECU +B | ECU +B1 | VSV for AS | VSV for FPU | VSV for EGR | Check connector +B | O2 sensor +B,"E8(D).12
II3.25 (16?)",
IH1,17,'-,'-,'-,
IH1,18,'-,'-,'-,
IH1,19,'-,'-,'-,
IH1,20,G-L,"ECU ""SPD"" pin 9","E8(D).8
",
IH1,21,Y-R,'-,'-,
IH1,22,B-W,ECU STA | Cold Start Injector | Start Injector Time SW | Starter,"E8(D).11
Starter Trigger
",
IH1,23,G-Y,"AFM ""FC"" pin 2 (when switch closed its GND)",N/C,
IH1,24,'-,'-,'-,
,,,,,
,,,,,
,,,,,
Connector,Pin Number,Color,Description,Connects To,
IH2,1,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,2,G-Y,4WD ECU input | ADD indicator Sw ('-) | Transfer Case indicator SW (+),"IH1.2
II3.17",
IH2,3,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,4,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,5,L,A/C Idle'-up VSV,'-,
IH2,6,B-R,"ECU pin 24 (T2) (called ""ACV"" in A/C section, but ""A/C"" in Engine control section) | A/C Idle up valve (possibly ''-' ?)",,leave open for now
IH2,7,R-W (R-B in EWD),Back'-up light switch B1 pin 1 ('-),II3.19,
IH2,8,B-O,Back'-up light switch B1 pin 2 (+),II3.20,
IH2,9,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,10,G-Y / G-R,ADD indicator SW (+),"II3.9
E8(D).9",
IH2,11,Y-L,Oil Pressure Sender,II3.22,
IH2,12,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,13,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,14,Y-G,Water Temp Sender,II3.21,
IH2,15,B-W,"ECU pin 10 (T4) (called ""A/C"" in A/C section, but ""ACV"" in Engine control section) | A/C Compressor Magnetic Clutch","E8(D).7
II3.25",E8(D).7 should be N/C
IH2,16,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,17,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,18,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,19,'-,'-,'-,
IH2,20,B,Igniter (I1) pin 4,II3.15,
,,,,,
,,,,,
,,,,,
Connector,Pin Number,Color,Description,Connects To,
II1,9,R-Y,"ABS ECU ""TS""",IH1.8,
,,,,,
,,,,,
,,,,,
,,,,,
Connector,Pin Number,Color,Description,Connects To,
II3,1,'-,'-,'-,
II3,2,'-,'-,'-,
II3,3,'-,'-,'-,
II3,4,'-,'-,'-,
II3,5,'-,'-,'-,
II3,6,'-,'-,'-,
II3,7,'-,'-,'-,
II3,8,B-R,"IG2 (EFI relay coil (+)) | IG1 (Ignition sw ""IG2"")",IH1.14,
II3,9,G-B,ECM | 4wd dash light ('-) | ABS ECU,"IH2.10
E8(D).9",
II3,10,W-B,GND,IH1.1,
II3,11,R-G,'-,'-,
II3,12,W-R,'-,'-,
II3,13,GR-L,Combo meter Speedometer input (VSS output from transmission),N/C,
II3,14,P-L,Combo meter GND (GND for VSS in transmission),N/C,
II3,15,B,Combo meter Tach signal,IH2.20,
II3,16,W-L,Switched EFI output (+12V),"IH1.16
E8(D).12",
II3,17,G-R,ADD Control Relay coil ('-),"IH1.2
IH2.2",
II3,18,BR-R,"Data Link Conn 3 (""SG"")",,
II3,19,R-Y,"ECM ""R"" (conn H pin 1) | backup light bulbs",IH2.7,
II3,20,B-Y,+12V from 10A fuse,IH2.8,
II3,21,Y-R,Combo meter Water Temp,IH2.14,
II3,22,G-W,Combo meter Oil Light,IH2.11,
II3,23,Y-B,"Cruise Control ECU ""TC"" | ABS ECU ""TC"" | Airbag sensor assembly ""TC""",IH1.9,
II3,24,BR-R,OBD'-II shield wire (GND),,
II3,25,LG-B,"AC Amp ""MGC""","E8(D).7
IH2.15",
II3,26,G-Y,COR coil ('-) | Engine side connected to E5(A).14; splice into 3.0 COR wires (not sure what color),,
,,,,,
,,,,,
,,,,,
Connector,Pin Number,Color,Description,Connects To,
E8(D),1,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),2,B-W,(BATT),IH1.10,
E8(D),3,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),4,V shielded,Malfunction indicator lamp (Comb. meter) (W),IH1.3,
E8(D),5,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),6,L'-B,AC Cutoff control (ACT),N/C,
E8(D),7,L'-Y,AC Amp / AC Switch Signal (AC1),"II3.25
IH2.15",
E8(D),8,G-O,From Speedometer (Comb. meter) (SP1),IH1.20,
E8(D),9,G-B,To ADD indicator sw (4WD),"IH2.10
II3.19",
E8(D),10,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),11,B-W,Ignition Switch (STA),"IH2.2
Starter Trigger
",
E8(D),12,W-L,+12V EFI Fuse Switched (+B),"II3.16
IH1.16",
E8(D),13,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),14,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),15,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),16,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),17,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),18,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),19,W,SDL for OBD'-II (SDL),D7.2,
E8(D),20,G-W,Brake (stop light switch) (BK),IH1.5,
E8(D),21,'-,'-,'-,
E8(D),22,'-,'-,'-,
,,,,,
,,,,,
,,,,,
Connector,Pin Number,Color,Description,Connects To,
D7 (OBD'-II),1,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),2,W shielded,SDL,E8(D).19,
D7 (OBD'-II),3,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),4,W-B,Connector Ground,new GND,
D7 (OBD'-II),5,BR-R,Signal Ground,new GND,
D7 (OBD'-II),6,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),7,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),8,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),9,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),10,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),11,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),12,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),13,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),14,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),15,'-,'-,'-,
D7 (OBD'-II),16,V,+12V (from a 7.5A fused always'-on power source),new 7.5A source,
12-23-2013, 11:07 AM
#59
Registered User
Thanks for posting everything you have about your swap. I am about to start mine once I can find an engine for a decent price. I was pretty worried about the Smog part, as I also live in CA and need it street legal. Its good to hear they have loosened up a bit. Did he make it seem like only at that particular location, or all of CA has been a bit easier on the inspection?
Where did you get it inspected if you don't mind me asking. For some reason I get the feeling that if i try to do it in the bay area they will be a PITA.
Thanks!
Where did you get it inspected if you don't mind me asking. For some reason I get the feeling that if i try to do it in the bay area they will be a PITA.
Thanks!
12-28-2013, 12:32 PM
#60
Registered User
Thread Starter
In talking with the smog ref before doing the swap and getting it inspected (I called 3-4 times just to clarify that everything I was doing was correct), he more or less implied it was a statewide decision to loosen up the exhaust routing rules (just as long as all the components are in the same relative position as the donor from the factory.
I went to the Sacramento Ref at American River college and didn't have any issues except for some loose wires in the ECU connectors that would disconnect if the ECU or wires were touched (which was an issue I needed to fix anyway).
I went to the Sacramento Ref at American River college and didn't have any issues except for some loose wires in the ECU connectors that would disconnect if the ECU or wires were touched (which was an issue I needed to fix anyway).
