scheefdog

First, I must say this forum is inspiring when thinking about doing a 3.4 swap. I've done a lot of reading so far and I'm sure it will pay off as I start into my swap.

To start I picked up a clean 88 xtracab V6 from someone local who was selling because the truck would no longer pass emissions (did not have compression in two cylinders.) The truck has cruise, AC and auto everything - I assume kind of rare for an 88. It is a 5 speed.





My donor engine is from a 2000 4runner 5 speed with 155k miles. I purchased the entire engine swap package from a reputable Toyota guy so hopefully I have everything I need and if not I think I can call him back and go get anything else I might need.

I have a few questions as I start in on my swap.

1. I have to drill the 3.4 block for the oil dipstick since it is a 2000. Does anyone in CO have a guide I can borrow? I don't want to fork out $50 to ORS for the guide if I only am going to use it once. Also, can I re-use my 3.0 tube and dipstick?

2. My truck is an 88 so I think I need to find a set of newer 3.0 motor mounts. I've read a few other 88 swaps and it looks like some people don't mention having to source different mounts. Anyone with an 88 have insight?

3. I would like to do the wiring myself to save the money as I think I'm capable. I believe it is a little easier since I have a 99+ ecm. Does anyone have the EWD for a 2000 4runner 5 speed? Or notes from doing a similar donor? Below is a picture of the ECM I have and the body plugs that went to the donor.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Subscribed.
The swap I done was with a 2000 4Runner 3.4, I had to drill the block for the dipstick, no guide needed IMO just start with a pilot hole first and keep it straight.
Your stock motor mounts should work being you have a 3.0, maybe someone with a swapped 88 can confirm.
I made my own harness for my swap, that's the hardest part of the swap for most.

scheefdog

JasonYota-
Nice work on your swap - read through the whole thing. Did you drill the block from the top or the bottom? Glad to hear you can drill without a guide.

Do you have pdfs of the 2000 wiring diagrams you used? If so, would you be into emailing them to me?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

techinfo.toyota.com for the EWD's I believe you need 89 or newer 3.0 motor mount brackets.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Drill from the top, there are pics of the location on the block where to drill, have the oil pan off while drilling and be sure to get all the shavings out from underneath

donomite49

Looks like my truck, only mine had the 22re.

It has every option except the 3.0 so I have the original gear driven transfer case.

I'm out of state so can't help with ewd's as I have a 2000 runner engine too.

Looks like we will have "brother" trucks except for tranny and transfer case.

The swap is so worth it...

Streetrod19772000

I am doing a 3.4 out of a 1999 4 runner auto into an 88 4runner auto. I have the book for the 1999 but I think the 2000 is different as far as wiring diagrams. If not let me know and I could email them to you. I am having trouble with the wiring. I have three plugs in the 88 that went to the engine harness from the dash harness and for the life of me I cant find the pinout diagrams for all three plugs. I found and labeled the one plug but the other two don't match anything that I find. I am thinking one is for the ECT that I will not be using as I am using the 1999 auto and it uses ECM for transmission electronics. Any help anyone can give me would be appreciated. I am also wiring in the 4WD ECU into the harness for the transfer case shifting. I also installed the front diff out of the 1999 into the 88 so the front drive shaft is on the drivers side now. Exhaust stayed on the passenger side. I am all done except for wiring. Some one want to come over and help???? hahaha.

scheefdog

donomite: Your truck looks great - do you have a thread for your swap? Only looked at your video of it running. They do look like brothers.

donomite49

No thread yet

I want to do a build thread when I finish
It will be finished after I get the long travel suspension and the supercharger with all the extras done.

I did the swap but didn't take time to document, my bad...

scheefdog

Pulled out the old 3.0 last night, happy to have that oily mess out of the engine bay to clean everything up.





I left the AC compressor attached in the engine bay because I'm not sure if I should just keep it connected and bolt it to the new motor OR should I disconnect the lines and put in the newer 3.4 compressor? I'm assuming the system is no longer charged because there was no belt for hooked up to the compressor. Is there a way to tell if it is charged and is it ok if I just pull off the old lines?

Also, found the EWDs for the 2000 4runner so I think I have all of the diagrams I need. The 3.4 engine is in the stand waiting to be cleaned up a little. Then I need to drill the dipstick hole, do the oil pan swap, crossover, and I'm going to replace the timing belt etc.

SacRunner

I left my A/C system connected and had the 3.0 compressor bungee tied out of the way during the swap since I knew mine still had a good charge of the old (R12, I think) freon, then just swapped the pulley from the 3.4 compressor to the 3.0's.

I have no idea how to check if your system is charged or not.

donomite49

Just put a gauge on it...

Need one to recharge anyway.

scheefdog

I assume you need a special AC gauge? Or can I use a tire pressure gauge to see if there is any pressure in the system? Assuming the fitting is a universal shrader type valve.

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

An A/C gauge. Press the valve down with a screwdriver and you'll find out quick if it's still charged or not. I wouldn't worry about trying to keep it together if you believe it hasn't worked in a while IMO

scheefdog

So I'm starting to look through the wiring diagrams and I want to start building my conversion harness in the evenings. A simple question before I start:

The existing 3.0 engine harness has two plugs that go to the body harness, should I just cut these off the engine harness and re-pin these with the 3.4 wiring? You can see them in the pic below.


The 3.4 wiring harness has a main plug that goes to the body harness, unfortunately I forgot to specify that I wanted that plug when I picked up the engine. Therefore should I try to track down the plug that matches to make the plug and play easier? I might be able to get it from the guy I bought the engine from. Or does anyone know if you can buy only the plug from Toyota (it is a 2000)?

SacRunner

Yes, I would cut the connectors off the 3.0 engine harness that plugs into the body harness, make sure to give yourself 6-12" or more of wire to work with; it's easy to cut and remove extra.

If you can get in touch with the guy you bought the motor from, I would ask for the body side of that connector (or 2; my 97 donor had 2 connectors between the 3.4 engine and body harnesses), and again, ask for 6-12" of wire.

If not, I'm sure you can buy that connector and short 6" lengths of wire with the correct pins crimped on them (to insert into the plastic connector housing) from Toyota, the difficult part will be finding a parts guy that will look through the giant book of connectors to find everything. One thing to note with this approach is that all the wires will be black (I did this with the MAF connector on my swap, but ended up using the original wiring and connector), which could make debugging a bit of a pain.

scheefdog

Thanks, that is what I was thinking would be the easy check. I'm just going pull the 3.0 compressor and swap plates to the 3.4 since it is newer and looks to be in great shape. I will not need AC until next summer so I have plenty of time to figure out recharging the system

scheefdog

I drilled the block for the dipstick union, went freehand with a right angle drill and drilled a 3/16" pilot first. Had to remove the exhaust manifold to gain enough room. The hole was easy enough to freehand in my opinion - but I have drilled a lot of steel which probably helps in knowing what speed to drill etc. I stepped up to a U size bit after the pilot. I think most Ace Hardware's have these in stock for anyone doing a future swap. I reused the union from the 3.0 and put it in the freezer before driving it into the new hole.

I also swapped the 3.0 oil pressure gauge and soldered the older connector in place of the newer one on the 3.4 harness for a clean look.

I reused the 3.0 pickup and oil pan after spending a good amount of time cleaning on the pan. I modified the 3.4 baffle to work with the 3.0 pickup. If you were looking to save time, the ORS oil pan swap kit would be worthwhile, however I'm trying to do this on a budget so I get to spend lots of time cleaning.

One question, I was thinking I would reuse my 3.0 dipstick and guide, however it seems the dipstick might not be the right length. Here is a picture of the 3.0 dipstick all the way inserted and I'm wondering if it is sticking down too far into the oil pan as far as being accurate for the oil level. Can anyone verify? If I have to I'll breakdown and buy the T100 dipstick and guide, but it would be nice to reuse what I have.

scheefdog

Got my crossover pipe modified and I'm thinking of attaching the stock heat shield as it sounds like if you wrap then it cracks. Anyone attached the stock heat shield? I cut mine down to fit, but worry about it rattling unless I weld the ends to the crossover.


I also replaced the timing belt and all the misc with a complete ebay kit with OEM parts. I think all I have left is to cut and re-weld the alternator bracket and flip the HP fuel line before I drop the engine in. I got the 3.4 flywheel resurfaced, a new clutch, and bearings.

Anything else I'm forgetting before I drop the engine in?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

I'd get rid of the stock cross over. The inside of my cab would get super warm the longer I drove it. Just join the banks under the bell housing or behind the transfer case.
Keep up the good work!