mbomberz1

I honestly wasnt too sure about it either Charchee, but so far so good. It did take much longer than I had hoped. So many things to learn and check while doing this for the first time. But finally.. I present to you all.. the finished R150F!! (hope it starts to shift smoother once these new syncros break in )

The transmission rebuild was something I have been planning for over a year now. I ordered the kit and upgrade parts last year around this time. I felt like my transmission used to shift much better but after driving around with the clutch out of adjustment for quite some time it became slowly harder and harder to shift into gears, especially 2nd. Well I fixed the clutch pedal adjustment, and changed the fluid a few times, put a short throw shifter in and it was somewhat better, but not great. It would consistenly feel notchy/gritty/rough going into gears. A couple years driving around like that and I started bothering me enough to say screw it. Lets do a rebuild and see how it goes. Couldnt be a better time than now to do it since I already am gonna have the transmission separated from the engine during the swap. Should make it hopefully easier to drop in the engine with out the transmission down there to test fit the crossover and whatever else might come up. Probably wont put the trans back in until the swap is nearly complete.

Here it is, finally. Everything all back together and shifting correctly in the vise:



Cases all cleaned up and clear coated, ready to go on:



Front bearing cover plate installed and torqued down:



The finished product!



Whew... now its time to get this swap started, day after Christmas I am digging in! Gonna start clearing out the engine bay on the 26th. I am taking the week after christmas off and hopefully going to spend most of it getting the swap well underway. Finally alll coming together now, sure ended up being a lot of lead up work getting to this point between the engine and transmission rebuild, sheesh.

Merry Christmas everyone

Charchee

I was just looking back over your crossover project for some ideas when I noticed something different about our donor engines. My collector is actually downstream of the flange that is below your collector. Both pipes on mine come separately to the flange. I think that might make things easier for me if I can just cut off the two pipes above the flange and move it to the drivers side and then use the bolt on collector to begin my downstream exhaust project. What model was your donor?

mbomberz1

From what I understand from about 95-98 they had the dual pipe setup like yours, and then from 99+ they had the collector before the flange like mine. I think this varies depending on the donor type, 4runner/tacoma/t100 though, seemed like they switched over to the newer style on different years by a few. The dual pipe one is definitely easier to make from what I have seen, so your in luck! Toy Only Swaps wont even convert the newer style for you.

Mine is from a 99 4Runner.

Charchee

And my donor was a 2000 4Runner. Engine and exhaust were original. No welds in the pipe downstream and the engine is original. That's strange. You see things like that from time to time. I talked to a guy the other day who has a 97 4Runner with the three position stick transfer case with the AWD button and center diff lock switch in the dash. I thought that wasn't available until 99 and had never seen one before 2001.

mbomberz1

That is really interesting Charchee, after thinking about it a little bit I remember the reason. My donor is a California truck, and the newer style crossover has 2 catalytic converters on the down pipe, the trucks with 1 cat have the older style. Im sure Toyota waited as long as possible to spend the money on 2 cats where they could depending on where the trucks were getting delivered! I lucked out sort of and the place I got my engine from sent me the down pipe with the cat still in it by accident, so I only had to buy 1 cat.

mbomberz1

Time for the first real update to this thread that has any real bearing on the actual swap!

Here we go guys, no turning back now. Made some good progress yesterday and today. Got the 3.0 pulled out:



Old and new:



Ready to start test fitting the crossover. I swapped over the oil pan from the 3.0 temporarily, and put on the engine mounts. Looks like my old style 1988 3vz engine mounts wont really work with the 5vz block, my passenger side mount only has 3 of the 4 holes matching on the block, the lower left bolt hole has nothing that it matches up to. Curious what some of the other guys with 88-89 3.0 vehicles have encountered here with the engine mounts. I remember reading a few notes through my research about older 3.0 mounts not being ideal, but I dont remember any details about it, might have to call up a toyota wrecking yard and order a newer style mount. Ill add some more pictures of what this looks like after I pull the engine out again.



Its only temporarily sitting in there, but it felt really good to watch the engine hoist chain finally get some slack in it as the 5vz settled into the the truck for the first time.



A lot more to come this week! Hopefully all goes well and I dont run into too many big hangups that delay me from getting most of the big stuff done before the new year.

Tomorrow my plan is:

• Tack up the cross over lower flange while aligning the down pipe properly
• Finish welding the cross over once I know everything fits
• Drop off the cross over to get ceramic coated
• Clean out the engine bay, wash it and decide if it needs any painting
• Pull out the 5vz, and start swapping over anything else I might have time for

mbomberz1

So today didnt go as smoothly as I was hoping. Getting the crossover and down pipe aligned and welded took pretty much all day. I am probably being a little too picky about some of the alignments but I would rather not find out when I go to put the trans back in and weld up the remainder of the exhaust that nothing lines up.

I officially have the engine mount problem. I think I can get away with using the 3vz driver mount just fine. But as many have noted in the past, the passenger side isnt working quite right. Unfortunately I dont recall anyone with my specific issue, the lower left bolt hole not having a standoff on the block to match up with. A picture would be easier:

Driver side, any opinions? Has anyone seen this? I cant imagine everyone is running around with 3 out of 4 bolts...


With out the AC bracket:



Am I missing something here?

Charchee

It's coming along! Is the 3.0 oil pan an option? I've been looking for a T100 pan.

mbomberz1

It sure is, pretty excited that it is finally under way.

As for the oil pan, I havnet modified the oil pan baffle yet, but it looks like the 3.0 oil pan is going to work just fine. I swapped it over (with out baffle or pickup tube) so that I could drop in the engine with out hitting the front diff, and there was no issue. Once I get it 100% converted ill post up what all I had to do.

Now to figure out this damn engine mount situation.. I am thinking I might just cut up the driver side engine mount that was left on my 5vz block, and try to fab up an extension to the top two bolt holes just under the heads, above the passenger side mount. Hmm!

SacRunner

Something definitely doesn't look right. I assume both mounts (that part that bolts between the engine and the rubber isolator) came off your 88's 3.0, right, or did you pick them up from a junk yard or elsewhere? Are the two mounts the same (they should be different)?

And actually, now as I look at it more, that is 100% the wrong mount. Both pictures are of the passenger side, btw; the give away is the coolant drain plug near one of the freeze plugs, and the lack of oil filter and oil cooler mounting locations. For what its worth, the passenger side mount should use the two threaded holes just above the center freeze plug. Since you have a drain plug and not a petcock you shouldn't have any interference there. Let me poke around and see if I can find another thread with an example (I don't seem to have any pictures of my mounts).

EDIT:
See the last picture of post 18 from superchiem's swap, it shows the notch he had to cut out of his 3.0's passenger side mount: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160.../#post51809494

mbomberz1

Hey SacRunner, thanks for stopping by and I really appreciate your help! I took a look through the thread you linked, and I see what you mean now. Apparently the early 3vz's have the welded plate steel mounts and the later ones have cast mounts. Since my truck was the first year of the 3vz I am lucky enough to have the wrong mounts for the swap. The good news is that the driver side works just fine. I pondered some more about how I could make my passenger side mount work, and I think I am going to try and cut up the 5vz mount I have left over and make an extension to those top two mounting points. That should give me 4-5 bolts which is more than enough I imagine. Ill post some pictures of this if it works!

Enough stressing about engine mounts for today though, on to some actual progress!

After far too long the cross over is finally done and just about ready to get ceramic coated. I thought about just painting it with some ceramic header paint you can get at the auto part store but since i cant really get in side, and after reading about the crossovers cracking, I think im just going to go the safe way and get it coated inside and out.

Lining up the down pipe and trying to figure out how that flange needs to get attached and where to cut the collector pipe at:



Pretty is not the word I would use to describe this thing, but it should do the job. I am not much of a welder and I had my old man dust off his welding gloves, it was cool to see him weld up most of it with the torch. He used a mig for the flanges and the flex join, but all the pipe to pipe connections were with the oxy torch, he was complaining how he cant see any more and that it doesnt look to great but it was fun to see him at it. I think I am definitely going to try and teach myself how to weld with the torch, it was very cool how versatile and controllable it was. I might clean up the pipe with a grinder here and there, not sure yet.







Finally working on something new, got my 3.0 oil pan all cleaned up and ready to go on.



Got the baffel all cut up and installed with the 3.0 oil pickup tube



Flywheel, pilot bearing and new clutch installed



Felt great to make some more progress today and knock a few more things off the list. Here is my list for tomorrow:

• solve the engine mount issue
• plug up my oil pump dipstick hole
• cleanup and swap over my 3.0 oil pressure sensor
• pressure wash the engine bay and clean it
• whatever else I might have time for!

duckhead

Great thread so far bomberz!!! Many of your swap issues are eerily familiar I know your already beyond it but no dice on that plastic housing without buying a new harness. I called multiple dealers and gave up with them and spoke to TRD USA. Took them 3 days to get back to me but Toyota doesn't offer it. They stated they would put a request in for the part to be available. I told them it seems like many people would benefit from it and it'd be great to see it available. If you have the time maybe make the call. Older vehicle so I doubt it'll happen but I tried

Your motor looks great!!! Can't wait to see how it pans out.

mbomberz1

Thanks duckhead, its been quite the journey so far but I am starting to see the finish line off in the distance. Those plastic covers.. yeah that was pretty disappointing to find out. No way I was gonna pay the $600 for a new wiring harness just for those plastics I ended up just wrapping the harness with split loom, electrical tape and then anchored it down to the valve covers with some circular hose clamp things. It looks ok, would have been better to use the plastic casings for sure though. Hard to let those little things go when you spend so much time trying to get the rest of the engine looking perfect.

So I was finally able to get the engine mount taken care of. Cutting up the 5vz mount I had lying around ended up working pretty good.

You can see here I chopped off one large ear from the driver side 5vz mount



It isnt pretty but it should work just fine



Finally all buttoned up! Glad that little project is over. One more hurdle down



I did end up having to notch out the AC bracket just a bit as well because of the older 88 mount using this bolt



Yesterday I swapped over the AC compressor pullies only to find that since I have the 4Runner bracket, my AC compressor doesnt line up.. So I am going to have to try swapping over the 5vz compressor, I have some more reading to do on this one.



Got the 1/4 inch pipe plug installed into the oil pump dipstick hole and was finally able to button up the bottom end of the engine for good. *knocks on wood* Feels good to get that whole oil pan thing over and done with.



More stuff crossed off the list, still quite a bit more to do. Last night I pulled out the 3.0 engine harness and ECU and started looking into the wiring some more. Unfortunately I think it was a bit too late and I was too tired, couldnt figure anything out. Kept getting stuck on what connector to even start with, and pondering how my body harness is going to link up to the new computer and harness. I dont want to cut off my connectors and directly solder..

mbomberz1

Some good news to report, I think I have finally dropped the 3.4 in for the last time. With not too much trouble, I am able to remove/install the crossover with the engine in. I just have to do it through the transmission tunnel Finally able to start hooking everything up for good!



Started the wiring officially today. I think i just need to let it soak into my brain a little more. It was a rough start to be honest. I dont want to blindly start connecting stuff unless I am 100% sure they are the right wires, because of fire and stuff. It is really unfortunate that TIS only goes back to 1990, because I have had a really hard time trying to get good reference to my 88 3.0. I probably have most of whats out there, but its not easy to make sense of like the 1999 4runner pdfs are. I have been using Monarch's documents he wrote up and shared from his 97 t100 swap, and it has given me a good headstart, but still have a lot of work to do..



One little win for the day, with some patience I was able to slide the 3.0 wiring harness grommet off with out cutting or ripping it, and then put it onto the 3.4 harness!



Ok, off to stare at wiring diagrams again.

mbomberz1

Pretty frustrated about the wiring so far. Not that I thought it would be easy, but it is really giving me a hard time so far. Just cant seem to wrap my head around meshing a lot of these two systems together. Hope I have some major breakthrough and it all starts to click, but I have probably spent a good 12-15 hours looking at the two diagrams, making an excel connection sheet but not making a lot of progress. I cant even seem to find the two body connectors I am trying to use as a jumper online. Monarch had a pinout of them, and I am basing a lot of my starting work off what he did with his 88 4runner. But the problem is trying to identify where those connectors fall into the wiring diagrams, I cant find them referenced anywhere which is making me second guess everything I am doing. ugh!

SacRunner

It is a pain, but take your time, identify all your connectors for both your truck and your donor truck. Then in a spreadsheet identify all of the pins in each of the connectors, write down the wire color, then take some notes about what each wire is doing, where it's going, where it came from, what's connected to the male side, what's connected to the female side; write down as much detail as you can.

After you have identified all the wires in all the connectors for BOTH vehicles, only then can you start to identify which of wires from the 3.4 based truck match up to your 3.0 based truck.

Take a look at the PDF I made of my conversion harness for an example of the kind of data that I wrote down for each wire. IH1 and IH2 were from my 91 4Runner, II1, II3, E8(D), and D7 (OBD-II) were all from the 96/97 4Runner donor I used:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...l#post52161608

mbomberz1

Thanks a bunch for the encouragement SacRunner. I ran across your post a few times now and copied your format because it was the easiest for me to understand so far from all the ones I have seen. I think I made some progress last night finally, and started soldering today. Still not able to get the ECU to turn on though. Still need to make the Ignition connection to the ECU and i guess the EFI relay? Its been hard deciphering the old 88 diagram compared to the newer 99 one. If you wouldnt mind taking a look, let me know if you have any other suggestions!

Thanks again!

Here is a google document to my connection sheet, just like you made

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Let me know if that works.. i turned on sharing, comments are enabled but no editing yet, dont want someone to erase it all.. heh

mbomberz1

It has been raining a ton this last week. Havent been able to get out and do a lot of work which has given me some extra time to stare at wiring diagrams. I think I am getting close. I do have one kind of big area that I am stuck on, its the EFI relay and how it should be wired up to the new ECU. There are some significant differences between how the 99 EFI relay interacts with the ECU and how the 88 EFI relay works.

Here is a simplified version of my 88 EFI relay layout. As you can see when you put the ignition into Run or Start, it sends power to the relay coil and it closes, powering up the ECU +B



Now, the 4Runner takes the ignition signal in directly into the ECU IGSW then the ECU sends power to the relay coil by way of the MREL to close it and power up the +B..



What is the appropriate way to wire this? I would like to avoid rewiring the EFI relay to match the 99 setup, as that would require running wires across the dash harness and I havent seen anyone that required that.

Does the ECU care if it sees the IGSW signal? Can you just ignore IGSW wire, as well as the MREL wire and let it work like it does in the 88?

mbomberz1

Well my confusion on the IGSW wire to the ECU is still there, not sure if the engine will actually run with out that wire being given 12v, but I was able to make some progress this morning!

Last night I soldered up most of the wiring harness, just a few things left to do like run the line to the starter trigger, and solve the IGSW question. Went out this morning and hooked up the harness and battery in the truck, turned the key to ON and.. we have power!!



I was able to finally check the computer for any codes, it had none. I was getting info from my coolant temp sensor, my check engine like was on and the OBD2 port was up and running. Seeing all of that come to life was such a relief.

mbomberz1

Got my crossover back from ceramic coating today, got it done in their most heat resistant black to help keep the temps down back there hopefully since I dont have the double walled factory crossover back there, or any heat shield. They did a great job, if your in the bay area I would really suggest giving these guys a try if you need anything coated, Accessories Plus in belmont. Only ended up being about $60 total to coat the crossover inside and out, a lot better than the $300 quote I got from the other place.



Started getting the new battery wiring laid out. Going to use my previously installed alternator to battery circuit breaker to now link up my battery to original 88 fuse box and one of those bluesea fuse blocks to help keep things tidy. Made some simple small mounts for it and attached it to the fender, now that I have a bunch of empty screw mounts as the engine bay sheds more old 88 bits and pieces. Good practice for the evap and battery!



First couple lines hooked up, perfect use for the OBD2 7.5 amp fuse, my amp, the urd 7th injector ecu, some extra lights and who knows what else