Moto260

So i started a swap on my 88 4runner. Used Donor engine is off of a 2000 Tacoma.
I'm no mechanic, so thank god for Yotatech. Everyones been very helpful.
I've gotten my 3.0 pulled, stripped and returned the core. I got my t100 Oil pan/pick-up/baffle yesterday. I've ordered a new Timing belt kit with water pump, gasket set for exhaust manifold, and Intake gasket set, hoping they'll arrive soon. Hopefully this stuff aint going to take me too long, I'm a little nervous on the timing belt/water pump replacement(I got a manual though) >< I saw a couple threads on removing the Pilot bearing without a puller, but didnt really understand how to put the new one in? Doesnt cover it in the manual. (Figured I'd just get a socket and a hammer and tap it in)?? The throwout bearing seems pretty simple. But what kind of grease am i supposed to use? Does it matter?
I'll post some pics as i progress. Thanks Yotatech =D

Moto260

[IMG][/IMG]

Moto260

Pulling the engine. Ran out of hydrolic jack fluid, had to pull my damn tires off there to get the engine out the rest of the way.. DERP! ><
[IMG][/IMG]

Moto260

[IMG][/IMG]

Moto260

Hatin my exhaust nuts, I rounded another 3 on the manifold of the 3.0 before i got it off >.<[IMG][/IMG]

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

Good start!

You won't need to worry about that crappy 3.0 exhaust setup, no need to even bother taking that pipe off

Austin Marr

As far as your alternator bracket goes, keep the one that came with the truck (if it came with one, hopefully it did, cant remember if it did). If it did come with one, take a portable band saw or a grinder with a cutting wheel on it and cut that tab that bends out toward the firewall. my 3.4 came with one engine lifting hook on the driver side and i just used a bolt for the passenger side as a lifting point (kinda sketch but i didn't have a choice cause mine didn't line up either). brackets that connect to your tranny????? more specific please i just used hi-temp wheel bearing grease to lube the input shaft of the tranny where the bearing will be sliding on. also put some lube on the dimple on your fork where the fork will be pivoting off of if that makes sense. what i did with the pilot bearing is what deathcougar told me to do which was the easiest solution for me: pack the hole behind the pilot bearing full of that wheel bearing grease or any other thick grease you got. take a M8 sized bolt which fits in the pilot bearing hole perfectly (bigger sized tranny bolt will fit if you have no other option but do not mess up the threads on the bolt. better to just run to home depot and grab a junk one that wont be used to hold your tranny) take that bolt, place it in the hole of the pilot bearing and smack it with a hammer untill it stops. you will see grease begin to portrude out but re pack it full of grease and repeat. this acts as a reverse hydraulic press and pushes that bastard right out. its messy but it works wonderfully. I just used a socket the appropriate size of the outside of the bearing to pound it in, i also left a small amount of grease around the edge where the bearing sits to assist in ease of installation. just make sure you put the new throw out bearing on the same way it comes off lol best advice i can give.

are you using your 3.0 clutch on the 3.4?

Austin Marr

not sure if you saw in my thread about the motor mounts....but i had changed my oil and did a full tune up to my 3.4 before i put it in. little did i know that when it came time to put the motor mount brackets on the motor my oil filter would get in the way of being able to tighten down the bolts for the brackets, so before you put a new oil filter on put your motor mount brackets on.

also since you've got some down time, take a look at your 3.4 harness' starter connector (single wire, should be black with a white stripe) and see if it will plug into your 3.0's starter. if not cut the connector off your 3.0's harness and your 3.4's harness and get a 10' chunk of 14 gauge stranded wire (i used 14 gauge speaker wire, its all i had) and solder the 3.0 connector and your 10' pigtail onto the wire where the 3.4's starter connector was. Study the sticky in this section titled: "3.4 wiring theory by the monch" on how to properly solder wires together. i would also recommend getting some adhesive shrink wrap to slide over the soldered connection's once your done. electrical tape wont do.

SacRunner

I think he's talking about the 2 brackets from the 3.0L that bolt to the block and to the transmission bellhousing.

Anyways, those brackets may not be needed with the 3.4 (at least for whatever reason Toyota did not include them with the 3.4s) but I reused mine. They will only fit on the one side they are supposed to be mounted to and both 3.4 blocks I had did have threaded mounting holes for those; granted they were unused and pretty well rusted but I chased them with a 10x1.50 (I think) tap to clean them out. I would install them, loosely for now, then when you get the transmission bolted up tighten them down, just because there is a little bit of play in them and if you torque them down now the transmission holes may not line up and you'll have to loosen them anyways.

Moto260

Awesome. That should give me a good jump on this haha. Ya, those were the brackets I was talking about, ill look into making them fit but I didn't see any threads there for them. (Could be mistaking) If they're not there I'm probably just going to leave them off.
I just watched a video on that pilot bearing removal, it seems pretty easy. But I am reusing my 3.0 clutch. It doesn't look too bad aside from a few burns on my flywheel, but ill probably just clean those up a bit with some sand paper before I throw it on. My engine did come with an alternator bracket so ill chop that off, and check my starter wire. I've read through the monch's 3.4 wiring theory a few times, but I'm sure ill be back on his thread several times. I'm new to the wiring stuff >.< thanks guys ill keep you posted.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

dntsdad swap 101 - the wiring section is what got me going on the wiring. Using Adobe to search connectors was invaluable.

Austin Marr

thanks vasinvictor thats what i meant. sorry moto260 i mean look into dnts dads thread about the 3.4 swap 101 for proper soldering and what not

Moto260

Awe I see. Ill get into it. Today was extremely non-eventful I got my pilot bearing in with ease ( love that bolt and grease trick). But when I pulled my damn oil pan and pick-up. I went to match up the supposed t100 pan / pick-up. And the damn pick-up didn't work with the pan. As well as they gave me the same baffle that's already on my donor. Don't know if that really matters, doesn't seem like they would change that much. Ill post a pic of my pan and pick-up in the morning before I drive to sac to waste more time and gas >.<. Gets me thinking if they really gave me the right oil pan. Second of all I got my flywheel turned and the guy at the shop gave me a second opinion on my clutch. Said that Its pretty worn out and I should do it while I'm in there so that's changed as well. Figured I'd order one online. Any suggestions as to which one i should get. They seem cheaper if I match them to my 88 4runner than to the 2000 taco. Haha,

Moto260

Here's my Pick-Up It hits on the Right side first thing it comes down, and on the Filter side. It looks correct when i look at other people's t100 oil pan and Pick-up but i cant even get close to fitting the pan over it. [IMG][/IMG]

Moto260

Top ones old pan, new ones on bottom. [IMG][/IMG]

Austin Marr

i didn't have to swap oil pan's on my t100 3.4 obviously because it already had the t100 pan and rear sump. that oil pan you are holding in the above picture looks to be the exact pan as my t100 3.4 has. it looks like inside it your holding the sump that came with it? i have no idea on this but just from looking at pics it looks like they gave you the wrong sump....or maybe you can make that one work? i'd do some more research on it. i think there is a sticky thread that says "which oil pan to use on your swap" and i recall them giving you all the part numbers and everything.

glad to hear your changing your clutch IMO if your not doing any hard wheeling and you drive it around town and on logging roads or what have you, just get a OEM or genuine toyota clutch kit. I haven't heard good things about ebay clutches and i had a stage 3 in my 3.slo and i wore it out in like a year. IMO also i would get one for the 2000 taco because the clutch is made to work with that flywheel and it just makes sense that way.....money money money

lookin good though man. just to keep your mind going to so you can continue looking for a parts rig that has a 3.4, have you also thought about what your going to do for the 3.0 body harness plugs (2 plugs gray and white) - the 3.4 engine harness plugs? to make this more confusing, there are 4 plugs that go to your ECU and 2 plugs that are further up the harness (we wont get into the names of these connectors because its thoroughly confusing haha) the majority of the wiring that will need to be done for your swap will be on those 2 plugs on the 3.4 engine harness. you will wire your (2) 3.0 body plugs to those (2) 3.4 engine harness plugs. unless you have the body harness plugs from your donor, you will need to get them from a junk yard or buy them new from toyota. more explanation later, just something else to think about if you have to run to the junk yard for something else

oh ya, when you do your water pump, t-belt etc. put your coolant neck from your 3.0 on your 3.4

Moto260

I turned my flywheel off my 3.0. Should I still get the Tacoma clutch? Gonna be a while till I order it. I returned that oil pan/pick-up. Figures they only gave me store credit but ill need it lol. Just couldn't make it work and I wanna know I have the right one. Going to have to buy them new. Has its ups and downs I guess.

And the engine wiring harness from what I understood so far is going to plug right in, aside from extending a few wires here and there, ORS says that the body harness is 40% of the work and isn't easy at all. I don't know what I'm going to do with that one yet, was debating on ordering the conversion harness for the body. Save a week off my time. I think ORS would still do it if I wrote them an email.
They're quite expensive but reading on it confuses me a lot.

Austin Marr

Up to you on the wiring harness. I did have some complications and it did take a long time for me to really understand and figure it out. If i would of had the money, i would have sent my harness to ORS to have them do it. If you go that route, you still have to do a couple of wiring things which isn't bad. It will make it ALOT easier if you just have them build a harness for you. Really depends on what you want to do. that can be the last thing you do even.

Might as well use the 3.0 clutch then. Make sure your using all 3.0 components for the clutch though.

SacRunner

As far as I have understood it, the clutch disk and pressure plate must match your flywheel; so if you're going to use the 3.0 flywheel you will need to use a 3.0 clutch disk and pressure plate (to use the 3.4 clutch disk and pressure plate you would need to buy a new 3.4 flywheel). Either way, you will need to use the 3.0 throwout bearing (as it matches your 3.0 transmission).

As for the oil pick up, you want 15104-62070, the 3.4L T100 4x4 pick up.


EDIT: use the 3.0 throwout bearing

Moto260

Oh ˟˟˟˟! I got the 3.4 throwout bearing! -.- I better trade that in huh! Lol. And the body harness is deffinently my last to do haha. Wanna get my engine in, looks so good so far. Got my timing belt/water pump on today. Just haven't torqued my harmonic balancer yet. Getting a chain wrench for that tomorrow. Now the expensive parts. Need new clutch, crossover pipe welded, and oil pan. Question...
I see these oil pan and pick-up part numbers like the one you gave me, and on that thread. "Which oil pan to use".
Where are these part numbers from. The dealership? And I need the 97 t100 4x4?? Oil pan, pick-up, and dip stick? No baffle cause all 3.4's are the same from what I've seen!
Also I got unlucky with the year 2000 on the donor and my oil dip stick doesn't have a hole in the back where I need to move it, like everything up to 99>.<. So I gotta find a thread on plugging the front and drilling the rear hole! I think I read on ORS, you need to drill it from the bottom(removing the oil pan)?? It feels weird hanging my engine upside down