3.4 swap started - Page 2

mt_goat · 04-06-2006, 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slosurfer

You could always look for a tupperware type container lid. Try someplace like Bed, Bath, and Beyond they make those containers in almost any size. Might work, who knows.
Chris

Good idea about BB&B, I looked at Target yesterday and the closest thing was in the kitchen silverware storage area, but just a little too long and a little too narrow. I was planning to hit Hobby Lobby and a sporting goods store that has lots of tackle boxes.

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

justinh · 04-06-2006, 08:42 AM

That tacoma was in pretty good shape, you should have just done an SAS on it!

Injohneer · 04-06-2006, 09:54 AM

If you're only looking for something cosmetic, have you thought of using Bondo or fibreglass?
I've never worked with the fibreglass, but it might look better than bondo... with either one, it seems like you could mix some up, slap it on, and use your finger or some other "special tool" to mold the shape you want... cove, quarter round, angle, whatever.
Of course you'd have to consider vibration / movement / installation & removal...

mt_goat · 04-07-2006, 02:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justinh

That tacoma was in pretty good shape, you should have just done an SAS on it!

Yeah, maybe it will still get an SAS someday. Of course nothing about this swap makes economic sence. I like what Adrian said once (in less words) about this swap: Only do this swap if love your truck and you can do it yourself and you plan to keep the truck forever.

mt_goat · 04-07-2006, 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Injohneer

If you're only looking for something cosmetic, have you thought of using Bondo or fibreglass?
I've never worked with the fibreglass, but it might look better than bondo... with either one, it seems like you could mix some up, slap it on, and use your finger or some other "special tool" to mold the shape you want... cove, quarter round, angle, whatever.
Of course you'd have to consider vibration / movement / installation & removal...

I think I found what I wanted, it is a container that holds 1lb of Vihta Vuori gun powder (great pistol powder BTW):

It is a soft plastic that is the right size, easy to cut and trim and is the right color already. Only draw back is unless you reload with it or know someone that reloads with it you'll have to buy $20 worth of powder to get the container. I just happen to have 4 lbs of it from when I was loading 38 Super. I first cut it in half:

And this is what I got so far:

Yes, I had thought about fiberglass but it takes a lot of work to get it smooth. I have some experence with fiberglass and it wasn't pretty. If I had gone with sheet metal the bondo could help smooth the corners, but bondo is fairly brittle so you wouldn't want to use it by itself.

mt_goat · 04-07-2006, 03:40 PM

Here's the shifter with the new trim on:

I found these clip-on nuts work great for the screws holding the shifter down:

Ace hardware even had them to fit the factory 6mm screws. They are called extruded "U" nuts. I was so impressed with them I bought extra ones for my "lift lips" (those rubber flaps beteen wheel well and engine).

Have to wait until the dual cases are in to cut the hole for the second TC shifter.

slosurfer · 04-07-2006, 06:27 PM

That trim looks good! Can't even tell that something was done. I can't wait to see it with the double tc shifter.

mt_goat · 04-08-2006, 06:43 AM

Thanks, I was lucky to find some molded plastic the right size and color. It was much easier than making something from scratch. The dremel tool came in real handy for this job.

mt_goat · 04-12-2006, 12:19 PM

Ok, I have driven about 8 years now without a rear ABS sensor and ABS computer and now I'd like to get rid of this ABS actuator:

so I can use that space for something much more fun (aquamist pump). Mike @ ORS will make me a by-pass for the PS highpressure line, but what has to be done to by-pass the brake lines that go in and out of this thing?

One line runs to the brake fluid reservoir and the other goes to the rear LSPV.

Anyone done this or know how to do it?

Snorkeldepth · 04-25-2006, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

I like what Adrian said once (in less words) about this swap: Only do this swap if love your truck and you can do it yourself and you plan to keep the truck forever.

Hmmmm . . . . . I love my truck . . . . . I think I'll keep it 'til I die. I haven't pulled the trigger on the new 3VZE yet . . . . .

I hate this site!!!

mt_goat · 04-26-2006, 03:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snorkeldepth

Hmmmm . . . . . I love my truck . . . . . I think I'll keep it 'til I die. I haven't pulled the trigger on the new 3VZE yet . . . . .

I hate this site!!!

I guess there is one thing about this swap that makes economic sense, the fuel economy is much better with the 3.4. Sean in the June issue of Off-Road says he's gotten as good as 20mpg with 33" BFG mud-Ts on their 3.4 swapped 4-runner.

If gas prices stay this high or go higher I don't see how anyone can afford to drive a 3.0. I was getting 12-14 mpg with my 3.0

mt_goat · 04-26-2006, 03:57 AM

I think I have a plan for removing the ABS actuator. I ran into a very helpful guy over on Marlin's site that has done it: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=23361.0

Got the flex line yesterday, just waiting on the fittings which are BOed.

Got the ORS battery tray welded in place and painted:

I did have one little mishap while welding the battery tray in. I started a fire where the plastic in the wheel well touches the sheet metal. Lucky I was just tack welding and was able to scramble out of the engine bay before the fire got too big. I took a big huff and blew it out like it was a b-day cake.

There was burning plastic dripping all over my tire

Got the 3.0 cruise control relocated to the other side, had to switch two of the CC supports around and bolt them back on.:

The original cable looks to fit perfect from there, but because the 3.4 TB is diiferent than the 3.0, I had to cut the end off the cable and make a new end for it out of an old bolt:

A slight tack weld on the very end and a little cutting and grinding yielded this:

I'll see if it holds up, no huge deal if your CC fails on you.

Injohneer · 04-26-2006, 09:31 PM

Lookin' good...

Have you started the tranny upgrade yet? Or are you having a shop do that part?

mt_goat · 04-27-2006, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Injohneer

Lookin' good...

Have you started the tranny upgrade yet? Or are you having a shop do that part?

Thanks, I am planning to send the valvebody to IPT when I get it out of the Taco: http://www.importperformancetrans.com/index.shtml

mt_goat · 04-29-2006, 12:07 PM

Got the EGT and Trans oil temp gauges mounted yesterday:

The only thing is the new gauges hide a few of the idiot lights. The AT oil temp light is hidden but since one of the gauges is a AT oil temp, no biggie there. Lucky the check eng light is still visible and most of the other lights that are obstucted are minor like the seatbelt light and parking brake light.

Here's a night shot:

I found a good spot for the A/F ratio gauge but now I'll have to relocate the emergency flasher switch.

rimpainter.com · 04-29-2006, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Got the EGT and Trans oil temp gauges mounted yesterday:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...42310107ciNNgv

Dude! Where did you get that dual pod? Sorry if I missed it in your thread, I just clicked the pic in this link.

I am due for an EGT guage and I was looking for places I could mount it and I saw where you put this pod - I like it!

Thanks!

mt_goat · 04-29-2006, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by <96 Runner>

Dude! Where did you get that dual pod? Sorry if I missed it in your thread, I just clicked the pic in this link.

I am due for an EGT guage and I was looking for places I could mount it and I saw where you put this pod - I like it!

Thanks!

Hey Christian, I found out about them over here: http://www.customtacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57443
It's made by Perrin, kind of pricey, but I found one on ebay one day for $65 and snapped it up.

AH64ID · 04-29-2006, 02:32 PM

Out of curiosity, I might have missed it, why run a EGT on a gas engine, and A/F with, I presume, a stock ECU? I personally like having all the info I can get, but those are an odd gauge to have...

mt_goat · 04-29-2006, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AH64ID

Out of curiosity, I might have missed it, why run a EGT on a gas engine, and A/F with, I presume, a stock ECU? I personally like having all the info I can get, but those are an odd gauge to have...

It is a stock 3.4 ECU but with URD's Fuel kit, FTC and A/F ratio calabrator running interference (basicly fooling the ECU), that makes it possible to tune the A/F ratio. The EGT gauge is to help make sure there aren't dangerious exhaust temps, something that is very possible with a supercharged engine.

mt_goat · 04-29-2006, 04:11 PM

Got the tach fix done, with help from Sean @ TLT (on page 3 on the FAQs on Pirate).

Before:

After 10K ohm resistor soldered in place:

I found it interesting that there is already a resistor soldered between the same contacts on the front side of the tach. So now, if I did this tach fix right, there are two resistors in parallel. Any EEs out there know how that works? I'm thinking that the resistor with the lowest resistance will take more of the current flow.

BTW I've heard that this same fix works on the 4 cyl to 3.4 swap too.

AH64ID · 04-29-2006, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

It is a stock 3.4 ECU but with URD's Fuel kit, FTC and A/F ratio calabrator running interference (basicly fooling the ECU), that makes it possible to tune the A/F ratio. The EGT gauge is to help make sure there aren't dangerious exhaust temps, something that is very possible with a supercharged engine.

Gotcha!

Tragic Drive · 05-23-2006, 07:14 PM

Lookin good MT goat.

Ive done the 3.4 supercharger swap and have only had one small problem. The boost port fitting on the back of the charger is a straight MPT fitting. I would recomend using a 90 degree fitting before you put your charger on ( lot easier to access).
Here is why in the 2nd gen Runner our heater controls really get in the way of the 3.4 swap (2" body lift on mine). The boost port fitting rubs on the hot water lines, at least in mine I had this problem. Actualy ripped some air lines easy fix though.
I cant wait to see your truck and some engine pics.

mt_goat · 05-24-2006, 06:27 AM

Great tip! Thanks. Can you find those at the hardware store?

Tragic Drive · 05-24-2006, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Can you find those at the hardware store?

You should be able to find the fitting localy. If you can't I have a few of them around I can send one your way.

,Thomas

hektikwon · 05-24-2006, 06:43 PM

Hey Tragicdive, what kind on exhaust did you get put on. I just got a Magnaflow Cat and Muffler put on and I'm supposed to pick up my truck tomorrow. Also did you switch out you fuel filter with a 3.4 filter and if so did it go in on the 3.0 fittings. Gotta love the 5vz

04-06-2006, 09:54 AM	#28 (permalink)
Injohneer Contributing Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 667	If you're only looking for something cosmetic, have you thought of using Bondo or fibreglass? I've never worked with the fibreglass, but it might look better than bondo... with either one, it seems like you could mix some up, slap it on, and use your finger or some other "special tool" to mold the shape you want... cove, quarter round, angle, whatever. Of course you'd have to consider vibration / movement / installation & removal... __________________ Trail/Build Rig: 1981 Toyota Pickup 4x4, flatbed Tow Rig: 2001 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 4x4, X-cab Long Bed. Will be my tow rig, when I get a trailer. RIP: 1995 4Runner.

04-07-2006, 03:40 PM	#31 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Here's the shifter with the new trim on: I found these clip-on nuts work great for the screws holding the shifter down: Ace hardware even had them to fit the factory 6mm screws. They are called extruded "U" nuts. I was so impressed with them I bought extra ones for my "lift lips" (those rubber flaps beteen wheel well and engine). Have to wait until the dual cases are in to cut the hole for the second TC shifter. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2008 at 09:32 AM.

04-07-2006, 06:27 PM	#32 (permalink)
slosurfer Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Los Osos, CA (we can't agree on crap!) Posts: 2,155	That trim looks good! Can't even tell that something was done. I can't wait to see it with the double tc shifter. __________________ Chris 7th Annual Pismo Jamboree: Sept. 25-27, 2009 '93 4runner SR5 3.0 Auto 4WD '07 Tacoma Dcab 4x4 TRD offroad '89 F250 4x4 w/utility bed M416 1/4 ton military trailer "Some people spend an entire lifetime wondering if they made a difference. The Marines don't have that problem." Ronald Reagan Semper Fi SLO 4wheelers

04-08-2006, 06:43 AM	#33 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Thanks, I was lucky to find some molded plastic the right size and color. It was much easier than making something from scratch. The dremel tool came in real handy for this job. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

04-12-2006, 12:19 PM	#34 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Ok, I have driven about 8 years now without a rear ABS sensor and ABS computer and now I'd like to get rid of this ABS actuator: so I can use that space for something much more fun (aquamist pump). Mike @ ORS will make me a by-pass for the PS highpressure line, but what has to be done to by-pass the brake lines that go in and out of this thing? One line runs to the brake fluid reservoir and the other goes to the rear LSPV. Anyone done this or know how to do it? __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2008 at 09:33 AM.

04-06-2006, 08:42 AM	#27 (permalink)
justinh Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: woodstock, ga Posts: 1,505	That tacoma was in pretty good shape, you should have just done an SAS on it!

04-26-2006, 03:57 AM	#37 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	I think I have a plan for removing the ABS actuator. I ran into a very helpful guy over on Marlin's site that has done it: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=23361.0 Got the flex line yesterday, just waiting on the fittings which are BOed. Got the ORS battery tray welded in place and painted: I did have one little mishap while welding the battery tray in. I started a fire where the plastic in the wheel well touches the sheet metal. Lucky I was just tack welding and was able to scramble out of the engine bay before the fire got too big. I took a big huff and blew it out like it was a b-day cake. There was burning plastic dripping all over my tire Got the 3.0 cruise control relocated to the other side, had to switch two of the CC supports around and bolt them back on.: The original cable looks to fit perfect from there, but because the 3.4 TB is diiferent than the 3.0, I had to cut the end off the cable and make a new end for it out of an old bolt: A slight tack weld on the very end and a little cutting and grinding yielded this: I'll see if it holds up, no huge deal if your CC fails on you. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2008 at 09:37 AM.

04-26-2006, 09:31 PM	#38 (permalink)
Injohneer Contributing Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 667	Lookin' good... Have you started the tranny upgrade yet? Or are you having a shop do that part? __________________ Trail/Build Rig: 1981 Toyota Pickup 4x4, flatbed Tow Rig: 2001 Chevy 2500HD Duramax 4x4, X-cab Long Bed. Will be my tow rig, when I get a trailer. RIP: 1995 4Runner.

04-29-2006, 12:07 PM	#40 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Got the EGT and Trans oil temp gauges mounted yesterday: The only thing is the new gauges hide a few of the idiot lights. The AT oil temp light is hidden but since one of the gauges is a AT oil temp, no biggie there. Lucky the check eng light is still visible and most of the other lights that are obstucted are minor like the seatbelt light and parking brake light. Here's a night shot: I found a good spot for the A/F ratio gauge but now I'll have to relocate the emergency flasher switch. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2008 at 09:40 AM.

04-29-2006, 02:32 PM	#43 (permalink)
AH64ID Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,637	Out of curiosity, I might have missed it, why run a EGT on a gas engine, and A/F with, I presume, a stock ECU? I personally like having all the info I can get, but those are an odd gauge to have... __________________ -John '05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600 2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.

04-29-2006, 04:11 PM	#45 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Got the tach fix done, with help from Sean @ TLT (on page 3 on the FAQs on Pirate). Before: After 10K ohm resistor soldered in place: I found it interesting that there is already a resistor soldered between the same contacts on the front side of the tach. So now, if I did this tach fix right, there are two resistors in parallel. Any EEs out there know how that works? I'm thinking that the resistor with the lowest resistance will take more of the current flow. BTW I've heard that this same fix works on the 4 cyl to 3.4 swap too. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2008 at 09:43 AM.

05-23-2006, 07:14 PM	#47 (permalink)
Tragic Drive Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Maryland Posts: 407	Lookin good MT goat. Ive done the 3.4 supercharger swap and have only had one small problem. The boost port fitting on the back of the charger is a straight MPT fitting. I would recomend using a 90 degree fitting before you put your charger on ( lot easier to access). Here is why in the 2nd gen Runner our heater controls really get in the way of the 3.4 swap (2" body lift on mine). The boost port fitting rubs on the hot water lines, at least in mine I had this problem. Actualy ripped some air lines easy fix though. I cant wait to see your truck and some engine pics. __________________ *,Thomas* Supercharged 3.4 in a ARB Locked 95 Runner

05-24-2006, 06:27 AM	#48 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Great tip! Thanks. Can you find those at the hardware store? __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

05-24-2006, 06:43 PM	#50 (permalink)
hektikwon Registered User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: NE GA (Between blizzads & hurricanes) Posts: 462	Hey Tragicdive, what kind on exhaust did you get put on. I just got a Magnaflow Cat and Muffler put on and I'm supposed to pick up my truck tomorrow. Also did you switch out you fuel filter with a 3.4 filter and if so did it go in on the 3.0 fittings. Gotta love the 5vz __________________ 91 4x4 4runna 3.4 , auto to manual tranny conversion, 2" body lift, Aisin manual hub conversion, vinyl flooring, 2nd gen inclinometer, 2.5 Magnalow cat & muffler, Trail Gear Sliders, Bilstein Shocks *Gone but not forgotten 96 4runna Limited e-locked, KC Fogs, 265/70/16 Hankook Dynapro ATm's

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
cant get it started	surfmobile	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	4	01-28-2006 10:26 AM
HELP! Cant get it started!!!	ricky	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	22	07-31-2005 08:33 AM
4.3 Conversion Started	1WiCkEd_RuNNer	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	11	07-18-2004 07:53 AM
3.4 swap getting started	the00flaw	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	15	12-16-2003 06:48 AM
Supra Swap started	NCSU-4runner	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	19	11-11-2003 11:54 AM