Injohneer

Good lookin' work there!

Although I think might be the wrong approach for making a boot for the shifter...

How's the rest of the swap going? Got the donor engine out yet?

mt_goat

A boot isn't really a good word to use, more like a piece of trim about 1/2 inch high all the way around the cutout but fabricated out of one piece, like a lid of a box. I'll probably end up making one from some sheet metal but I'm still looking around for a box just the right size. It needs to be between 2.5-3" wide and 6.5-7.5" long. I went on a scavenger hunt around the house and even spent about 30 mins at Walmart looking for any box or lid the right size.

I have'nt started removing the donor engine yet. Yesterday was spend replacing the blown suspension bushings I found while cleaning the engine bay. Superlift sent me some new ones already and it is much easier to replace them with everything out of the way.

Injohneer

Oh, I understand now... I was looking at the wrong side of the console...yes, a little box is what you need...

Does it need to provide structural support or is it solely cosmetic?

mt_goat

Only cosmetic. Yeah, for the other side the console came with a leather boot but it's not on yet.

slosurfer

You could always look for a tupperware type container lid. Try someplace like Bed, Bath, and Beyond they make those containers in almost any size. Might work, who knows.
Chris

mt_goat

Good idea about BB&B, I looked at Target yesterday and the closest thing was in the kitchen silverware storage area, but just a little too long and a little too narrow. I was planning to hit Hobby Lobby and a sporting goods store that has lots of tackle boxes.

justinh

That tacoma was in pretty good shape, you should have just done an SAS on it!

Injohneer

If you're only looking for something cosmetic, have you thought of using Bondo or fibreglass?
I've never worked with the fibreglass, but it might look better than bondo... with either one, it seems like you could mix some up, slap it on, and use your finger or some other "special tool" to mold the shape you want... cove, quarter round, angle, whatever.
Of course you'd have to consider vibration / movement / installation & removal...

mt_goat

Yeah, maybe it will still get an SAS someday. Of course nothing about this swap makes economic sence. I like what Adrian said once (in less words) about this swap: Only do this swap if love your truck and you can do it yourself and you plan to keep the truck forever.

mt_goat

I think I found what I wanted, it is a container that holds 1lb of Vihta Vuori gun powder (great pistol powder BTW):


It is a soft plastic that is the right size, easy to cut and trim and is the right color already. Only draw back is unless you reload with it or know someone that reloads with it you'll have to buy $20 worth of powder to get the container. I just happen to have 4 lbs of it from when I was loading 38 Super. I first cut it in half:


And this is what I got so far:


Yes, I had thought about fiberglass but it takes a lot of work to get it smooth. I have some experence with fiberglass and it wasn't pretty. If I had gone with sheet metal the bondo could help smooth the corners, but bondo is fairly brittle so you wouldn't want to use it by itself.

mt_goat

Here's the shifter with the new trim on:




I found these clip-on nuts work great for the screws holding the shifter down:



Ace hardware even had them to fit the factory 6mm screws. They are called extruded "U" nuts. I was so impressed with them I bought extra ones for my "lift lips" (those rubber flaps beteen wheel well and engine).

Have to wait until the dual cases are in to cut the hole for the second TC shifter.

slosurfer

That trim looks good! Can't even tell that something was done. I can't wait to see it with the double tc shifter.

mt_goat

Thanks, I was lucky to find some molded plastic the right size and color. It was much easier than making something from scratch. The dremel tool came in real handy for this job.

mt_goat

Ok, I have driven about 8 years now without a rear ABS sensor and ABS computer and now I'd like to get rid of this ABS actuator:

so I can use that space for something much more fun (aquamist pump). Mike @ ORS will make me a by-pass for the PS highpressure line, but what has to be done to by-pass the brake lines that go in and out of this thing?

One line runs to the brake fluid reservoir and the other goes to the rear LSPV.

Anyone done this or know how to do it?

Snorkeldepth

Hmmmm . . . . . I love my truck . . . . . I think I'll keep it 'til I die. I haven't pulled the trigger on the new 3VZE yet . . . . .

I hate this site!!!

mt_goat

I guess there is one thing about this swap that makes economic sense, the fuel economy is much better with the 3.4. Sean in the June issue of Off-Road says he's gotten as good as 20mpg with 33" BFG mud-Ts on their 3.4 swapped 4-runner.

If gas prices stay this high or go higher I don't see how anyone can afford to drive a 3.0. I was getting 12-14 mpg with my 3.0

mt_goat

I think I have a plan for removing the ABS actuator. I ran into a very helpful guy over on Marlin's site that has done it: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=23361.0

Got the flex line yesterday, just waiting on the fittings which are BOed.

Got the ORS battery tray welded in place and painted:


I did have one little mishap while welding the battery tray in. I started a fire where the plastic in the wheel well touches the sheet metal. Lucky I was just tack welding and was able to scramble out of the engine bay before the fire got too big. I took a big huff and blew it out like it was a b-day cake. There was burning plastic dripping all over my tire

Got the 3.0 cruise control relocated to the other side, had to switch two of the CC supports around and bolt them back on.:


The original cable looks to fit perfect from there, but because the 3.4 TB is diiferent than the 3.0, I had to cut the end off the cable and make a new end for it out of an old bolt:


A slight tack weld on the very end and a little cutting and grinding yielded this:

I'll see if it holds up, no huge deal if your CC fails on you.

Injohneer

Lookin' good...

Have you started the tranny upgrade yet? Or are you having a shop do that part?

mt_goat

Thanks, I am planning to send the valvebody to IPT when I get it out of the Taco: http://www.importperformancetrans.com/index.shtml

mt_goat

Got the EGT and Trans oil temp gauges mounted yesterday:





The only thing is the new gauges hide a few of the idiot lights. The AT oil temp light is hidden but since one of the gauges is a AT oil temp, no biggie there. Lucky the check eng light is still visible and most of the other lights that are obstucted are minor like the seatbelt light and parking brake light.

Here's a night shot:


I found a good spot for the A/F ratio gauge but now I'll have to relocate the emergency flasher switch.