3.4 swap started - Page 13

mt_goat · 10-15-2006, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AH64ID

Dale.... I still think its odd that your warmer at hwy speeds... I think it has more to do with water flow speeds than tight fitting shroud. Even thou the shroud may limit flow, its still a ton of flow.. at it really doesnt limit it that much, it will actually make it flow faster when it hits the engine, kinda a jet effect. You also have all the air flow around the engine increased. I would still wager a guess that the radiator is semi clogged and that at higer water speeds (higher rpm) it cant cool enough.. One way to test is to run your idle up to hwy rpm at when stopped in traffic and see what happens... I still dont think the fan should ever have to run at 60mph.

Hummm, the radiator is new so I can't image a clog unless it's a defective core or something. It is an aftermarket rad. When I flushed it the water drains quickly.

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AH64ID · 10-15-2006, 04:26 PM

interesting.. is it a oem waterpump and pulley? i wonder if the 3.0 and 3.4 waterpump and radiators are desinged for different flow rates?

mt_goat · 10-15-2006, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AH64ID

interesting.. is it a oem waterpump and pulley? i wonder if the 3.0 and 3.4 waterpump and radiators are desinged for different flow rates?

Yeah original water pump, this 5VZ only had 27,000 miles on it. What pulley? Well the radiator was designed for a 150 hp engine and I'm cooling a 300 hp engine with it, so yeah it isn't designed for that.

thefallman · 10-15-2006, 11:53 PM

except that they are the almost the exact same capacity as the taco radiator. as far as flow rates thats not going to matter as much as cooling capacity (volume) the radiator can flow way more then it can cool.

i think that the reason he is warmer at highway speeds is that his costom shroud doesnt have enough room between it and the radiator to alow it the air to change directions effectively which efectively creats and Air Dam at higher speeds because of the volume of air trying to go through the radiator. its the differnce in a cabover Semi and a Traditional.

John

Jet effect????

come on tell me you know more about aerodynamics then that. there are to reasons thats wrong. the first being the engine is so close behind the radiator it causes a blockage and a slow down, because the air has to change directions and flow around the engine. the second reason is because there is no INLET shroud to trap the air against the front of the radiator and force it thru. its easier for the air to go around. you know physics and the whole path of least resistance. the air is going to go around way before it goes through especially at higher speeds where you end up pushing a wave front of air infront of your vehicle.

the whole concept is pretty simple. any pilots on here want to add there 2 cents to this.

AH64ID · 10-16-2006, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

except that they are the almost the exact same capacity as the taco radiator. as far as flow rates thats not going to matter as much as cooling capacity (volume) the radiator can flow way more then it can cool.

i think that the reason he is warmer at highway speeds is that his costom shroud doesnt have enough room between it and the radiator to alow it the air to change directions effectively which efectively creats and Air Dam at higher speeds because of the volume of air trying to go through the radiator. its the differnce in a cabover Semi and a Traditional.

John

Jet effect????

come on tell me you know more about aerodynamics then that. there are to reasons thats wrong. the first being the engine is so close behind the radiator it causes a blockage and a slow down, because the air has to change directions and flow around the engine. the second reason is because there is no INLET shroud to trap the air against the front of the radiator and force it thru. its easier for the air to go around. you know physics and the whole path of least resistance. the air is going to go around way before it goes through especially at higher speeds where you end up pushing a wave front of air infront of your vehicle.

the whole concept is pretty simple. any pilots on here want to add there 2 cents to this.

Flow rate does matter as you can outflow a radiators ability to cool. Which would be more likly at cruise speeds due to higer rpm that city driving

pssst.. I am a pilot

I am not saying its going to come thru at warp factor seven... just that what makes it thru will probally increase a little. The engine is close but not close enought to greatly affect flow, the air will disperse thruout the engine bay before it slows flow. Since the engine bay is open it will flow normal. And air is going thru the radiator. Arent most shrouds tight fitting? The air is getting thru. And cruising on the fwy takes a whole lot less power than stop and go does, so really cooling should be easier. Espically will all the air around the engine moving.

But how close is the custom shroud? I mean 1/8" or 1-2"... I guess I could be missing how close it is. If the shroud is on the radiator(super close and not tapered) then its for sure blocking air, and yes would create an air damn. If its 1" or so away and has a smooth increases in distance til the opening then you will get a jet effect (MINOR), its easier for the air to accelerate that to push back and stop incoming air, depending on how the shroud is built (what page are the photos on?). Once the air is thru the radiator and to the shourd it will continue to flow, there will probally be a very small air dam effect, but not enough to slow air flow so much that the cooling efficancy stops, but who knows as the fan is actully helping at this speed. I wouldn't have thought that a electric fan moves air at more than 50mph.

mt_goat · 10-16-2006, 04:26 AM

The pics are on page 3, but here's the best one:

The fan is very close to the radiator, so Brian is probably right about the air dam. I didn't know when I was making it how much room I was going to have for clearance. As it turned out I could space it back about 1/2 inch more, I may try that. Thanks for the idea. I have thought about an inlet shroud, or at least cutting away part of the plastic grill that blocks the flow.

AH64ID · 10-16-2006, 04:30 AM

Okay yeah, that shourd isnt the most flow conducive shroud. I was thinking of a more oem taperd shroud. I would space it off as much as you can.

mt_goat · 10-16-2006, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AH64ID

... And cruising on the fwy takes a whole lot less power than stop and go does, so really cooling should be easier....

It takes a fair bit of power to hold this brick at 70mph, my old 3.0 couldn't do it with all 150 horses unless I was in 3rd gear screaming or going with a tail wind or going down hill.

AH64ID · 10-16-2006, 04:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

It takes a fair bit of power to hold this brick at 70mph, my old 3.0 couldn't do it with 150 hp unless I was in 3rd gear screaming or going with a tail wind or going down hill.

I know what you mean.. I try to turn 35's with my RE, but can easily hold 75 at 3K feet in OD on level ground. I figre at 300rpm I might be making 45-50hp at best, at it takes all of it to keep me rolling. On a hill forget it unless I am above 4K...But 50-60hp isnt much and still shouldnt take a ton to cool...

mt_goat · 10-16-2006, 03:18 PM

Got the OD on/off button wired to work correctly but now I have a CEL for P1780 (park neutral switch) everytime I shift out of park. I have reset the code 4 times already :cry: The O2 simulator is installed and I haven't had a P0420 since.

I have a feeling the CEL is going to be coming on a lot, so I down loaded all the codes to my laptop so I can look them up fast. Here's where I found them: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/..._Trouble_Codes

jasond · 10-16-2006, 04:17 PM

Just curious, but have you seen at what your fuel trim looks like. I wanna know how well those injectors are sized to the blower.

mt_goat · 10-16-2006, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasond

Just curious, but have you seen at what your fuel trim looks like. I wanna know how well those injectors are sized to the blower.

I've been looking at them some and they aren't too bad. I'll have to take you for a ride and let you watch them Jason. I'm really surprised how good the preloaded URD maps are.

thefallman · 10-16-2006, 08:34 PM

IMHO heres the problem and the reason the fan helps at stop an go driving in town the car is relying entirely on the fan to pull air thru the radiator. because of the low speeds.

At highway speeds it would seem that the air would get pushed thru the radiator, BUT any vechicle creates an air dam in front of the vehicle depending on its aerodynamics. our radiators are not possitioned to take advantage of this IE close to the ground. this lets air take and easier path around below or above the radiator and not cool it. this is the reason that when the fan is shut off the temp heats up cause the air is going with least resistance and going around the truck. instead of thru the radiator.

HEY got a idea im missing my front valence and so i have about 8 inches of the bottom of my radiator exposed to the air from the front. Just wondering how your truck is setup

Strange that you couldnt push 33's at more then 70 with out droping OHHHH nM you saying you couldnt push them with O/D on gotcha. Yeah i couldnt either but i drove around most of the time out of O/D with the 3.slow. didnt have a problem hitting 95+ in 3rd.

Hey Dale if your just now getting that cel code after changing the wiring my bet is that you changed something that needs power cause im not getting that. and i have my O\D wired up if you tell me what plugs and pins i might beable to check on my wiring diagram.

mudbutt · 10-16-2006, 09:27 PM

Well I drove a 1998 auto 4runner today. The max temp was 195.

if you think the shroud is restricting flow, remove the electric setup and install the factory fan with no shroud and look at highway temps.

Looking at what my truck runs at with the stock t-stat, makes me think you have a airflow restriction at speeds. I was playing around today and my highway temps are less then city driving. I do have a heavy foot in traffic though. 192 highway-198 city

The fan pulls toward the engine right? I goofed this up back when I had a rock crawler, had the fan in and out too many times and hooked it up backwards.

mt_goat · 10-17-2006, 10:09 AM

Thanks for the help guys. Brian, when I look at the front of the grill I'm suprised any air gets through there, lol. There appears to be a lot of plastic in the way that could be cut out (not sure how good it would look). My TJM bumper, winch and trans coolers also don't help.

Jason gave me some good info on tracking down the park/neutral switch CEL, (it helps a lot to have a Toyota Master diagnostic tech following my thread) so hopefully that will be enough, thanks for the offer though.

Mudbutt, thanks for the info. What were the outside temps like for those readings?

I got the AC serviced this morning (Auto Air in OKC) and it works but they had to bypass the engine temp cutoff relay to get power to the compressor. Appearantly just the 4x4 autos have this cutoff (in case the engine overheats it shuts down the AC compressor power) I talked to Mike and he seemed to remember having to bypass that on a few trucks. The 3.0 AC amp was looking for a signal from the old engine that it now doesn't get from the new engine. The AC shop said the Tacomas don't have that cutoff relay. I'll just have to manually shut off the AC if the engine over heats, which I would do anyway.

They blew out the condensor but there wasn't much (or any) old R-12 oil in it, and they refilled the system with 4 oz of PAG oil and a 1/4 oz of dye. They said the PAG oil would be better for the compressor than Ester oil and would work fine, and any residual R12 oil will just settle in the low spots of the system. So $210 later it's now a working R134 AC system. Not too bad I guess considering they had to track down the compressor power problem, they also replaced the R12 fittings with 134 adapters and adjusted the AC amp so it would come on at the lowest idle possible.

Of course as soon as I get one thing fixed something else goes wrong. Now I notice the cruise control quit working. Haven't had time to look at that yet. It was working fine till I messed with the ORS harness to fix the OD button. Maybe that and the park/neutral switch problem are related and I can fix 2 at the sametime.

mastacox · 10-17-2006, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

...Of course as soon as I get one thing fixed something else goes wrong. Now I notice the cruise control quit working. Haven't had time to look at that yet. It was working fine till I messed with the ORS harness to fix the OD button. Maybe that and the park/neutral switch problem are related and I can fix 2 at the sametime.

Yikes, it's just one firefight after another...

How's the tuning? Done any tinkering with the WI to try and get your EGT's down?

mt_goat · 10-17-2006, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mastacox

Yikes, it's just one firefight after another...

How's the tuning? Done any tinkering with the WI to try and get your EGT's down?

Nope not yet.

04 Rocko Taco · 10-17-2006, 11:07 AM

I know throwing parts at a fundemental problem elsewhere is not really the way to go....but have you looked at putting an electric pusher fan on the front of the rad? Good luck, I know you having one issue after another. Looks good though Dale...If Im ever out your way, I want a ride!!

mt_goat · 10-17-2006, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04 Rocko Taco

I know throwing parts at a fundemental problem elsewhere is not really the way to go....but have you looked at putting an electric pusher fan on the front of the rad? Good luck, I know you having one issue after another. Looks good though Dale...If Im ever out your way, I want a ride!!

10-4 on the ride.

No I haven't even considered that, but really right now the fan that I have seems to work fine and keep the engine temps stable. It is just that it has to run while on the highway which is suprising and unusual. Now that I have the AC working I did a little testing, and the Delta linear LED shows bright red with the fan speed at 50%, which means I have no way of knowing if the fan is running full blast or only 50% or anything in between. It must switch from green to red at about 25% or less, but what do you expect from $10 indicator.

The most logical explaination I've heard is Brian's that the shroud is too close to the radiator and blocks the air flow. So that's probably the first thing I'll try before next summer rolls around.

Jason when you say connector E5, is that the ECU plug E? If so, what's connector E6? Going through that list of connectors you sent it appears E5 is ECU plug E, and E6 is ECU plug D (on Gadget's terms anyway). Ok I think I figured it out now, what Gadget calls plug A is really connector E8, plug B is E7, plug D is E6, and plug E is E5. I think it's time to do away with Gadget's terminology and just go by the EWDs.

suprathepeg · 10-17-2006, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04 Rocko Taco

I know throwing parts at a fundemental problem elsewhere is not really the way to go....but have you looked at putting an electric pusher fan on the front of the rad? Good luck, I know you having one issue after another. Looks good though Dale...If Im ever out your way, I want a ride!!

I haven't been following this thread but here are my suggestions. I had a simular situation when I first installed my 3.0. First install the stock fan and clutch, nothing you can buy will pull as much air and it will easily overcome the obstructions you have in front of the rad. The 3.0 rad us uhber big, I think toyota over, over built the cooling system on the 3vze to try and compensate for the temp variations in the engine so I'd rule out the rad its already a high density 3-core. For compairison the 3vzfe in the camry that makes 180hp only has a 2 core.

Second flow is a big deal and TRD has taken that into account with this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRD-S...spagenameZWDVW

Its pricy but it opens at a lower temp and flows more coolant then the stock one. As it is a little pricy I would try drilling 2x1/4" holes in the stock T-stat which will make it flow more coolant to flow if that helps then you know its worth the money of the larger t-stat.

Here is what I would do in order:

1) Instal the factory fan and clutch (I'm assuming you still have this kicking around). Its the cheepest and easiest thing you can do. If that fixes your problem then you know its a fan problem and can either look at the lincoln electric fan or an electric pusher set to kick in at higher then normal temps.

2) If 1 doesn't work or only helps then drill out your t-stat, its a cheep part and the only real negative will be your truck taking a little longer then usual to warm up (I did this and all should be good). If this solves your problem then you know its a flow issue and you can look at the TRD t-stat.

mt_goat · 10-17-2006, 01:00 PM

Ok thanks for the input Supra, I don't have the stock t-stat in, it's the URD (Napa) 170 deg. I noticed on the stove it opens a lot bigger than the stock t-stat did. But yeah the TRD 160 definitely looks good and yes if nothing else I'll just slap the stock fan back on and call the e-fan experiment a failure (but not yet).

suprathepeg · 10-17-2006, 01:05 PM

Does the URD flow more coolant? I would still mess with the T-stat so see if it works. I would also talk to Weasy2k IIRC he had a simular problem when he put the blown 3.4 into his MR2 and the t-stat fixed his problem. He is likely one of the only guys here (if not the only) who has done anything close to what you have.

mt_goat · 10-17-2006, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suprathepeg

Does the URD flow more coolant?

It should since it opens up with a bigger hole. They don't advertise it as a highflow t-stat but I noticed it opens a lot bigger hole than the stock t-stat when I had them both on the stove together. I did drill a small hole in it already, because it didn't have a jiggle valve.

mastacox · 10-17-2006, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

It should since it opens up with a bigger hole. They don't advertise it as a highflow t-stat but I noticed it opens a lot bigger hole than the stock t-stat when I had them both on the stove together. I did drill a small hole in it already, because it didn't have a jiggle valve.

You could always remove the t-stat (jsut for testing purposes) and see if things get better. If not, it isn't your limiting factor.

AH64ID · 10-17-2006, 02:02 PM

I think Dale has determined the fan is helping, with the fan off its getting hot...

And electric fans are capible of flowing much much more air than an engine driven fan. This is because for a engine fan to deliver max flow the engine compartment would have to be super hot and the engine rpms silly hi. Under normal circumstances the elec fan will produce much much more air as it can run at full speed with the engine off....

As far as flow if he is hot at cruise and cool at city he would be flowing too much at cruise rpm, and need to slow the flow thru the radiator to allow the coolant to cool...

His problem is probally they shroud.. I didnt realize how restrictive it was at first...

Dale here is a thought... cut the bottom half of the shroud off... the top 2/3-3/4 will still allow the fan to work properly, but missing the bottom will help flow at hwy speeds?? I used to run my runner with only half a shourd, had to cut it since the radiator I put in wouldnt bolt up....

10-15-2006, 04:26 PM	#302 (permalink)
AH64ID Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,637	interesting.. is it a oem waterpump and pulley? i wonder if the 3.0 and 3.4 waterpump and radiators are desinged for different flow rates? __________________ -John '05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600 2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.

10-15-2006, 11:53 PM	#304 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	except that they are the almost the exact same capacity as the taco radiator. as far as flow rates thats not going to matter as much as cooling capacity (volume) the radiator can flow way more then it can cool. i think that the reason he is warmer at highway speeds is that his costom shroud doesnt have enough room between it and the radiator to alow it the air to change directions effectively which efectively creats and Air Dam at higher speeds because of the volume of air trying to go through the radiator. its the differnce in a cabover Semi and a Traditional. John Jet effect???? come on tell me you know more about aerodynamics then that. there are to reasons thats wrong. the first being the engine is so close behind the radiator it causes a blockage and a slow down, because the air has to change directions and flow around the engine. the second reason is because there is no INLET shroud to trap the air against the front of the radiator and force it thru. its easier for the air to go around. you know physics and the whole path of least resistance. the air is going to go around way before it goes through especially at higher speeds where you end up pushing a wave front of air infront of your vehicle. the whole concept is pretty simple. any pilots on here want to add there 2 cents to this. __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think) Last edited by thefallman; 10-16-2006 at 12:05 AM.

10-16-2006, 04:26 AM	#306 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	The pics are on page 3, but here's the best one: The fan is very close to the radiator, so Brian is probably right about the air dam. I didn't know when I was making it how much room I was going to have for clearance. As it turned out I could space it back about 1/2 inch more, I may try that. Thanks for the idea. I have thought about an inlet shroud, or at least cutting away part of the plastic grill that blocks the flow. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2008 at 03:46 PM.

10-16-2006, 04:30 AM	#307 (permalink)
AH64ID Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,637	Okay yeah, that shourd isnt the most flow conducive shroud. I was thinking of a more oem taperd shroud. I would space it off as much as you can. __________________ -John '05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600 2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.

10-16-2006, 03:18 PM	#310 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Got the OD on/off button wired to work correctly but now I have a CEL for P1780 (park neutral switch) everytime I shift out of park. I have reset the code 4 times already :cry: The O2 simulator is installed and I haven't had a P0420 since. I have a feeling the CEL is going to be coming on a lot, so I down loaded all the codes to my laptop so I can look them up fast. Here's where I found them: http://www.tacomaterritory.com/wiki/..._Trouble_Codes __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-16-2006, 04:17 PM	#311 (permalink)
jasond Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 230	Just curious, but have you seen at what your fuel trim looks like. I wanna know how well those injectors are sized to the blower.

10-16-2006, 08:34 PM	#313 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	IMHO heres the problem and the reason the fan helps at stop an go driving in town the car is relying entirely on the fan to pull air thru the radiator. because of the low speeds. At highway speeds it would seem that the air would get pushed thru the radiator, BUT any vechicle creates an air dam in front of the vehicle depending on its aerodynamics. our radiators are not possitioned to take advantage of this IE close to the ground. this lets air take and easier path around below or above the radiator and not cool it. this is the reason that when the fan is shut off the temp heats up cause the air is going with least resistance and going around the truck. instead of thru the radiator. HEY got a idea im missing my front valence and so i have about 8 inches of the bottom of my radiator exposed to the air from the front. Just wondering how your truck is setup Strange that you couldnt push 33's at more then 70 with out droping OHHHH nM you saying you couldnt push them with O/D on gotcha. Yeah i couldnt either but i drove around most of the time out of O/D with the 3.slow. didnt have a problem hitting 95+ in 3rd. Hey Dale if your just now getting that cel code after changing the wiring my bet is that you changed something that needs power cause im not getting that. and i have my O\D wired up if you tell me what plugs and pins i might beable to check on my wiring diagram. __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-16-2006, 09:27 PM	#314 (permalink)
mudbutt Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Denver Posts: 107	Well I drove a 1998 auto 4runner today. The max temp was 195. if you think the shroud is restricting flow, remove the electric setup and install the factory fan with no shroud and look at highway temps. Looking at what my truck runs at with the stock t-stat, makes me think you have a airflow restriction at speeds. I was playing around today and my highway temps are less then city driving. I do have a heavy foot in traffic though. 192 highway-198 city The fan pulls toward the engine right? I goofed this up back when I had a rock crawler, had the fan in and out too many times and hooked it up backwards.

10-17-2006, 10:09 AM	#315 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Thanks for the help guys. Brian, when I look at the front of the grill I'm suprised any air gets through there, lol. There appears to be a lot of plastic in the way that could be cut out (not sure how good it would look). My TJM bumper, winch and trans coolers also don't help. Jason gave me some good info on tracking down the park/neutral switch CEL, (it helps a lot to have a Toyota Master diagnostic tech following my thread) so hopefully that will be enough, thanks for the offer though. Mudbutt, thanks for the info. What were the outside temps like for those readings? I got the AC serviced this morning (Auto Air in OKC) and it works but they had to bypass the engine temp cutoff relay to get power to the compressor. Appearantly just the 4x4 autos have this cutoff (in case the engine overheats it shuts down the AC compressor power) I talked to Mike and he seemed to remember having to bypass that on a few trucks. The 3.0 AC amp was looking for a signal from the old engine that it now doesn't get from the new engine. The AC shop said the Tacomas don't have that cutoff relay. I'll just have to manually shut off the AC if the engine over heats, which I would do anyway. They blew out the condensor but there wasn't much (or any) old R-12 oil in it, and they refilled the system with 4 oz of PAG oil and a 1/4 oz of dye. They said the PAG oil would be better for the compressor than Ester oil and would work fine, and any residual R12 oil will just settle in the low spots of the system. So $210 later it's now a working R134 AC system. Not too bad I guess considering they had to track down the compressor power problem, they also replaced the R12 fittings with 134 adapters and adjusted the AC amp so it would come on at the lowest idle possible. Of course as soon as I get one thing fixed something else goes wrong. Now I notice the cruise control quit working. Haven't had time to look at that yet. It was working fine till I messed with the ORS harness to fix the OD button. Maybe that and the park/neutral switch problem are related and I can fix 2 at the sametime. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 10-17-2006 at 10:13 AM.

10-17-2006, 11:07 AM	#318 (permalink)
04 Rocko Taco Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Atlanta, Ga Posts: 4,070	I know throwing parts at a fundemental problem elsewhere is not really the way to go....but have you looked at putting an electric pusher fan on the front of the rad? Good luck, I know you having one issue after another. Looks good though Dale...If Im ever out your way, I want a ride!! __________________ -Chris Tread Lightly! 04 Double Cab PreRunner. 3.4 - Auto 84 4Runner 4WD. 22R - 5 spd Lifted, Locked, 33x12.50 Disclaimer:My Photobucket is being revamped. If there are broken links, shoot me a PM. Thanks. ~Chris Great Toyota Tech

10-17-2006, 01:00 PM	#321 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,916	Ok thanks for the input Supra, I don't have the stock t-stat in, it's the URD (Napa) 170 deg. I noticed on the stove it opens a lot bigger than the stock t-stat did. But yeah the TRD 160 definitely looks good and yes if nothing else I'll just slap the stock fan back on and call the e-fan experiment a failure (but not yet). __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-17-2006, 01:05 PM	#322 (permalink)
suprathepeg Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Winnipeg Canada Posts: 789	Does the URD flow more coolant? I would still mess with the T-stat so see if it works. I would also talk to Weasy2k IIRC he had a simular problem when he put the blown 3.4 into his MR2 and the t-stat fixed his problem. He is likely one of the only guys here (if not the only) who has done anything close to what you have. __________________ 89 v6 SWB truck PROJECT "BLACK BEAUTY P&P heads, EB's OS SS valves,30 over on the bottom and deckedto zero, taurus fan mod.

10-17-2006, 02:02 PM	#325 (permalink)
AH64ID Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,637	I think Dale has determined the fan is helping, with the fan off its getting hot... And electric fans are capible of flowing much much more air than an engine driven fan. This is because for a engine fan to deliver max flow the engine compartment would have to be super hot and the engine rpms silly hi. Under normal circumstances the elec fan will produce much much more air as it can run at full speed with the engine off.... As far as flow if he is hot at cruise and cool at city he would be flowing too much at cruise rpm, and need to slow the flow thru the radiator to allow the coolant to cool... His problem is probally they shroud.. I didnt realize how restrictive it was at first... Dale here is a thought... cut the bottom half of the shroud off... the top 2/3-3/4 will still allow the fan to work properly, but missing the bottom will help flow at hwy speeds?? I used to run my runner with only half a shourd, had to cut it since the radiator I put in wouldnt bolt up.... __________________ -John '05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600 2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.

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