3.4 swap started - Page 11

mt_goat · 10-08-2006, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

Did you swap the a/c Amplifier boards yet????

No. Why would I need to do that?

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thefallman · 10-08-2006, 07:24 AM

same reason for the tach signal thing. the 2 A/C amplifier boards operate differntly and and use a differnt signal from the computer. the 3.0 board wont kick off the A/C under certian conditions when it should because. its not getting the signal from the Computer.

check out seans post at pirate on page 3 again its one of the last things on there right under the tach mod.

mt_goat · 10-08-2006, 07:53 AM

Yeah I've seen Sean's write-up, but I guess I thought he was wrong. ORS didn't say to use it. So what happens if you don't use it?

mt_goat · 10-08-2006, 08:26 AM

Actually there is very little on the AC part with the ORS instructions, and I don't think ORS's in-shop conversions (done in the Denver area) are usually concerned with AC because of the cooler temps there. So it could be that ORS instructions are incomplete. There seems to be as many different opinions as there are people you ask with this whole AC setup. I'm getting a little frustrated and confused with it.

When I look at the 93 FSM AC system circuit: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf

There are all kinds of things in that circuit

Why can't I just have an on-off switch for the thing. I get hot I turn it on. I mean what the hell does the tail light control relay have to do with the AC?

thefallman · 10-08-2006, 09:40 AM

Ill ask mike on monday what their take on that is. i have to go back over to ORS anyway to pick up a bracket for my truck. From my understanding it will work the way it is but it wont turn off if the engine is lugging down to much like at idle with a/c on. and possible a few other issues like it possibly wont shut off automatically when engine temps get to high. But like i said i will ask Mike on Monday

The switch over to a newer a/c amplifier is pretty simple i wired it up myself too. if you want i can scrounge around here in denver this week and probably come up with the parts and wire it up so all you have to do is pull your parts and plug the new one in.

Im just telling you what i found when i researched the swap out and what i did to make it work. I couldnt afford not to have the a/c when i was Moving 1200 miles with a wife that was 7 1/2 months preg. She would have SHOT ME.

the other reason that they may or may not be concerned about it is the fact that it has nothing to do with the engine running. seems thats their view cause when i asked about the tach mod they just shook their heads and said we dont know we have only done 1 of those. Same thing with water injection on supercharged 3.4. Seems they prefer to keep it simple. which i can understand totally. but it would be nice if they supported that a bit more.

jasond · 10-08-2006, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

I mean what the hell does the tail light control relay have to do with the AC?

That is just for the dash lights, like the one behind the a/c control panel

mt_goat · 10-08-2006, 10:38 AM

Yeah I'll have a bunch of questions for Mike tommorrow myself. I knew about the tach mod before I bought the kit, (the tach mod works great BTW) but they said the conversion kit was complete and everything else would work.

Thanks Jason, that makes sense about the AC dash light.

Thanks to Jason sending me the EWD and helping me read some of the symbols I think I've figured out why the overdrive button doesn't work. It doesn't appear ORS converion harness connects it up to the ECU. There are 2 wires that don't connect together like they should. The botton to the ECU and the ECU to the dash light.

mt_goat · 10-08-2006, 11:12 AM

I keep going back to what Sean said about the AC so I'm going to quote him from the Pirate board:

Quote:

A/C Solution:
You need the electronic card from the 3.4L A/C cooling unit located behind the glove box in the donor vehicle. With the 3.0L configuration the card receives a signal from the negative side of the ignition, in order to work now it will now need to receive a positive signal from the ECU instead. You will need Toyota wiring diagrams to figure this one out.

When I'm looking at the 3VZ EWD together with the 5VZ EWD it looks like to me both AC amps recieve a positive signal from the ECU. Oops, I do see where the 3.0 amp receives a neg signal from the 3.0 igniter (which is no longer on my truck). I guess that could be a problem (unless Mike has worked that out with his conversion harness already).

mt_goat · 10-08-2006, 01:44 PM

I found that the wire going from the 3.0 igniter to the AC amp also goes to the tachometer. Since the ORS harness was wired to run the tach maybe Mike has also wired the AC amp too. I would rather not use the 3.4 AC amp, even though I have one on the donor truck. I'm still thinking about rebuilding that donor truck sometime and any parts off of it would then need to be replaced.

thefallman · 10-08-2006, 08:33 PM

ill put up how i ran my wires tomorow for that part. and maybe a few pictures if i feel like tearing my dash apart to get to them

mt_goat · 10-09-2006, 06:17 PM

Talked to Mike @ ORS and his harness is wired to use the 3.0 AC amp, so that's a relief. There was a mistake with his harness for the auto OD button and he's going to help me with that.

Got the wideband A/F sensor installed beside the front O2 sensor:

I made a copper heat sink for it because the instructions said it was nessesary if the wide band probe threads got up to 900 deg F. My EGTs have been running about 1300-1400 deg F so I figure the wide band probe may be seeing 900 easy.

I found a good place to do driveline work in OKC, Blumenthal drivelines. Their shop is very clean:

Here's their welding room:

Larry, the owner has a rock crawling rig:

I got the rear shaft shorten about 8 inches and balanced for about $60. Here it is going on, I love that tranny jack adapter:

I have a bit of vibration with the rear shaft and after talking to Larry he said this is the problem:

The angle from the T-case to the center bearing is too extreme. So today I raised the center bearing support about 5/8 of an inch by putting the bearing on top of the bracket unstead of under it and using a spacer. That helped a lot but I may also lower the tranny just a fraction too.

I also found a good place (Auto Air of OKla.) to do the AC conversion. $170 and they said they would blow out the system, evac and recharge with oil. They seemed to be confident that would be all that was needed.

thefallman · 10-09-2006, 07:59 PM

Good Night why is your angle so extreme???

mt_goat · 10-10-2006, 05:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

Good Night why is your angle so extreme???

It's because of the dual cases and drivetrain lift (5/8"). The output flange has been moved back 8.5" with the dual cases, V6 adapter and 3.4 tranny swap, and I think the gear driven t-case output may be higher too. And the Budbuilt crossmember I got raised the drivetrain 1" although I lowered it 3/8" when I made the bracket for it.

Here's the output angle, it's not real bad, but enough to have a vib:

The Marlin Crawler has been a real PITA, I hope it's worth it with all the problems involed with it. It also has a big gear oil leak somewhere at the top at highway speeds. They haven't been answering their phones again, so I haven't been able to talk to Marlin about that.

mastacox · 10-10-2006, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Biggest worry right now is the cooling system. The gauge is showing fine but the fan is running on high just cruising down the highway at 70 miles per hour on a 80 degree day. So I hooked up my laptop to the OBDII connector and monitored the coolant temp for about 15 miles. It is running around 185-195, and it is hottest at highway speeds.

This is with a 170 deg thermostat, and no air conditioning yet. Brian I'm not ready to say you're right, but I'm worried. Just how hot is too hot anyway? A stock Taurus thermostat doesn't even open until 198 deg. The trans temp is great, like around 160 deg

Dude, you have to knock on wood after saying stuff like that!

I don't want to be right!

Anyway, I would mess around with the controller first; you have the DCC variable controller, right? What temperature do you have it set to right now? Try turning the temperature on the controller up 14 degrees (use one of the jumpers, as shown in the instructions) and go drive around. If the coolant temperature goes up 14 degrees as well, that COULD mean you have an undersized fan/radiator for your application... but if the temps change just a little, it could be that the fan is going like crazy aiming for a temperature it can't reach when fighting the opening/closing of the thermostat, so just ends up going full blast all of the time (in which case you might need to go to an even colder themostat). Do you have the linear indicator for the controller? Are you able to turn off the fan on the highway (some sort of manual switch) to see if that changes anything?

It's strange to me that it runs hottest on the highway, perhaps some sort of blockage, either on the radiator or in the lines? Running hotter on the highway tells me the radiator is undersized, because that's when you have the most air running though it...

Also: where is your controller sensor located? Is it nice and close to the coolant return to the engine? When putting mine in, I basically warmed up my engine, felt for the coldest spot on the radiator I could find (right next to the coolant return, bottom-left side of the radiator if you're looking at it from the back.

We'll make this cooling system work yet...

mt_goat · 10-10-2006, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mastacox

Anyway, I would mess around with the controller first; you have the DCC variable controller, right? What temperature do you have it set to right now? Try turning the temperature on the controller up 14 degrees (use one of the jumpers, as shown in the instructions) and go drive around. If the coolant temperature goes up 14 degrees as well, that COULD mean you have an undersized fan/radiator for your application... but if the temps change just a little, it could be that the fan is going like crazy aiming for a temperature it can't reach when fighting the opening/closing of the thermostat, so just ends up going full blast all of the time (in which case you might need to go to an even colder themostat). Do you have the linear indicator for the controller? Are you able to turn off the fan on the highway (some sort of manual switch) to see if that changes anything?

It's strange to me that it runs hottest on the highway, perhaps some sort of blockage, either on the radiator or in the lines? Running hotter on the highway tells me the radiator is undersized, because that's when you have the most air running though it...

Also: where is your controller sensor located? Is it nice and close to the coolant return to the engine? When putting mine in, I basically warmed up my engine, felt for the coldest spot on the radiator I could find (right next to the coolant return, bottom-left side of the radiator if you're looking at it from the back.

Hey Brian, yes it's a DCC controller and it's set on the 173 deg F jumpers/ with a 170 deg thermostat. And yes I have the linear LED indicator for it, that's how I know it's running near high speed at highway speeds, because the LED stays in the red on the highway. The LED starts to change from green to red when the OBDII readout shows a coolant temp of about 185 degs.

The location of the controller probe is in the radiator fins about where the yellow spot is in this pic (close to the return line):

So far the hottest coolant temp I've seen from the OBDII readout is 203 deg, but the weather isn't getting above 80 right now either. If I was just going by the dash gauge everything would look fine.

AH64ID · 10-10-2006, 10:00 AM

Its interesting that hwy is the worst since you have the best flow. The fan shouldnt ever have to run about 30mph.. it doesnt blow as much air as the rig moving does... I would think that your spining the water pump too fast at those rpms and the coolant cant cool.. are you running the stock h20 pump? If so.. that could be where the radiator is undersized...

Really should a 3.4 take that much more to cool than a 3.0?

mt_goat · 10-10-2006, 10:47 AM

Brian suggested some good tests to do and I also haven't begun tuning yet, all though the URD preloaded tuning seems to be pretty good. A/F ratio at wide open throttle is around 10 and I haven't heard any pinging. The only scarey thing is the EGT temps go up fast and hover between 1300 and 1400 deg F just crusing on the highway without boost (A/F is pretty much stuck around 14.7 crusing without boost), is that were it is suppost to be?

JHRRLD · 10-10-2006, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

...crusing on the highway without boost (A/F is pretty much stuck around 14.7 crusing without boost), is that were it is suppost to be?

I'm pretty sure that's right. I think you can only alter the A/F in open loop (WOT)? Anyway that's where my SC'd 3rz with URD fuel kits sits when cruising without boost.

I'd like to know as well

mastacox · 10-10-2006, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Brian suggested some good tests to do and I also haven't begun tuning yet, all though the URD preloaded tuning seems to be pretty good. A/F ratio at wide open throttle is around 10 and I haven't heard any pinging. The only scarey thing is the EGT temps go up fast and hover between 1300 and 1400 deg F just crusing on the highway without boost (A/F is pretty much stuck around 14.7 crusing without boost), is that were it is suppost to be?

Well, it sounds like you'll need some tuning, but that's to be expected

The 14.7AFR is "perfect" mixture, in that it burns as little fuel as possible... That's the ratio your engine will aim for while cruising to maximize fuel economy. You'll probably want it to be about 13:1 or 12:1 for boost conditions (according to Gadget, 12:1 is the perfect AFR before you start losing power and spiking your EGTs, 12:1 is what you'll want for WOT when the ECU goes into open loop). Your low-end torque will be better with a richer mixture as well. the 10:1 you're seeing under WOT right now is a little too rich, you'll have to back the fuel map off some up there. You'll be able to adjust you AFR when in closed loop by using your "fancy" AFR Ratio Sensor Calibrator, tell it when to kick in (probably an MAP value of 1 or 2 psi, it's programmable, yes?) and then adjust your fuel map until you have the AFR you are looking for at any given manifold pressure and rpm.

The EGT's sound pretty high for just cruising around, I think you'll need to crank up your WI apparatus to get some more methanol in there. 1450* should be the absolute max at WOT before you'll have to start worrying about melting pistons and cooking valves (at least this is what I have read). It could be you're running a little lean as well. I don't have an EGT gauge so I can't help you with "standard" values... perhaps Mark will chime in soon.

Also make sure to do the timing, go find a hill on the highway and try to induce ping while under boost, paying attention to where it occurs and then pull over, change the map, and start over again. You have the U-Tune guide also I assume, which will be quite useful. Have someone ride with you so you don't have to look at the laptop, they can pay attention to where the maps need to be changed.

mt_goat · 10-10-2006, 02:05 PM

I'm running the .9mm nozzle for the WI, I can only go one step larger to 1mm, but I will try that. I only just added the methanol for 50/50 mix, I was using straight distilled water. Yeah I may be running a little lean on parts of the mild boost map, but everything happens so fast when you put your foot into it. I'm also running 5.29 gears and I need some hills or something to slow me down.

I've never had the EGT go over 1400 though, even at wide open throttle. But you're right, 10 is pretty rich. I don't know why anyone would need injectors bigger than 318cc, unless you were running way more boost than 10 psi.

mastacox · 10-10-2006, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

I don't know why anyone would need injectors bigger than 318cc, unless you were running way more boost than 10 psi.

LOL, well Mark is running 370cc injectors now... but he's crazy

mt_goat · 10-10-2006, 02:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mastacox

LOL, well Mark is running 370cc injectors now... but he's crazy

Oh well I forgot about the duty cycle factor, maybe I'm maxing mine out or something.

I do have the U-tune guide and I tried to bring up the FTC maps using the instructions on page 13 & 14 but I couldn't get them to come up. I'll have to try that again later.

mastacox · 10-10-2006, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Oh well I forgot about the duty cycle factor, maybe I'm maxing mine out or something.

I do have the U-tune guide and I tried to bring up the FTC maps using the instructions on page 13 & 14 but I couldn't get them to come up. I'll have to try that again later.

Make sure and save the map as something when you first pull it off of the FTC, and then save the one you're messing with as something different. That way if you mess things up, you'll be able to go back to where you started...

Have you been able to confirm that your FTC and assorted additions have power?

mt_goat · 10-10-2006, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mastacox

Make sure and save the map as something when you first pull it off of the FTC, and then save the one you're messing with as something different. That way if you mess things up, you'll be able to go back to where you started...

Gotcha, yeah I'm not sure I would make it any better, I might make it worst. Did your maps come right up when you did it? I selected "file" and "new customer" and then saved that. Then opened it up but it didn't let me get to any of the options menu or maps menu. The only choices were file or help.

mastacox · 10-10-2006, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Gotcha, yeah I'm not sure I would make it any better, I might make it worst. Did your maps come right up when you did it? I selected "file" and "new customer" and then saved that. Then opened it up but it didn't let me get to any of the options menu or maps menu. The only choices were file or help.

Hmm, did you try pressing the "Connect to ECU" button? You ignition was on I assume... The maps will be all zeros until you pull the ones off of the FTC by the way. The maps don't come directly up, I have to do "load customer" and then I do "connect to ECU," then I select fuel maps under the maps menu...

And don't worry, tuning will be quite easy with a WB O2 sensor and OBD-II Scan Tool.

10-08-2006, 07:24 AM	#252 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 544	same reason for the tach signal thing. the 2 A/C amplifier boards operate differntly and and use a differnt signal from the computer. the 3.0 board wont kick off the A/C under certian conditions when it should because. its not getting the signal from the Computer. check out seans post at pirate on page 3 again its one of the last things on there right under the tach mod. __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 90 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 Reg Cab 22re 5spd Body Parts for the Phoenix 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-08-2006, 07:53 AM	#253 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,863	Yeah I've seen Sean's write-up, but I guess I thought he was wrong. ORS didn't say to use it. So what happens if you don't use it? __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-08-2006, 08:26 AM	#254 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,863	Actually there is very little on the AC part with the ORS instructions, and I don't think ORS's in-shop conversions (done in the Denver area) are usually concerned with AC because of the cooler temps there. So it could be that ORS instructions are incomplete. There seems to be as many different opinions as there are people you ask with this whole AC setup. I'm getting a little frustrated and confused with it. When I look at the 93 FSM AC system circuit: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../2aircondi.pdf There are all kinds of things in that circuit Why can't I just have an on-off switch for the thing. I get hot I turn it on. I mean what the hell does the tail light control relay have to do with the AC? __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 10-08-2006 at 08:32 AM.

10-08-2006, 09:40 AM	#255 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 544	Ill ask mike on monday what their take on that is. i have to go back over to ORS anyway to pick up a bracket for my truck. From my understanding it will work the way it is but it wont turn off if the engine is lugging down to much like at idle with a/c on. and possible a few other issues like it possibly wont shut off automatically when engine temps get to high. But like i said i will ask Mike on Monday The switch over to a newer a/c amplifier is pretty simple i wired it up myself too. if you want i can scrounge around here in denver this week and probably come up with the parts and wire it up so all you have to do is pull your parts and plug the new one in. Im just telling you what i found when i researched the swap out and what i did to make it work. I couldnt afford not to have the a/c when i was Moving 1200 miles with a wife that was 7 1/2 months preg. She would have SHOT ME. the other reason that they may or may not be concerned about it is the fact that it has nothing to do with the engine running. seems thats their view cause when i asked about the tach mod they just shook their heads and said we dont know we have only done 1 of those. Same thing with water injection on supercharged 3.4. Seems they prefer to keep it simple. which i can understand totally. but it would be nice if they supported that a bit more. __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 90 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 Reg Cab 22re 5spd Body Parts for the Phoenix 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-08-2006, 10:38 AM	#257 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,863	Yeah I'll have a bunch of questions for Mike tommorrow myself. I knew about the tach mod before I bought the kit, (the tach mod works great BTW) but they said the conversion kit was complete and everything else would work. Thanks Jason, that makes sense about the AC dash light. Thanks to Jason sending me the EWD and helping me read some of the symbols I think I've figured out why the overdrive button doesn't work. It doesn't appear ORS converion harness connects it up to the ECU. There are 2 wires that don't connect together like they should. The botton to the ECU and the ECU to the dash light. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-08-2006, 01:44 PM	#259 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,863	I found that the wire going from the 3.0 igniter to the AC amp also goes to the tachometer. Since the ORS harness was wired to run the tach maybe Mike has also wired the AC amp too. I would rather not use the 3.4 AC amp, even though I have one on the donor truck. I'm still thinking about rebuilding that donor truck sometime and any parts off of it would then need to be replaced. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-08-2006, 08:33 PM	#260 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 544	ill put up how i ran my wires tomorow for that part. and maybe a few pictures if i feel like tearing my dash apart to get to them __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 90 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 Reg Cab 22re 5spd Body Parts for the Phoenix 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-09-2006, 06:17 PM	#261 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,863	Talked to Mike @ ORS and his harness is wired to use the 3.0 AC amp, so that's a relief. There was a mistake with his harness for the auto OD button and he's going to help me with that. Got the wideband A/F sensor installed beside the front O2 sensor: I made a copper heat sink for it because the instructions said it was nessesary if the wide band probe threads got up to 900 deg F. My EGTs have been running about 1300-1400 deg F so I figure the wide band probe may be seeing 900 easy. I found a good place to do driveline work in OKC, Blumenthal drivelines. Their shop is very clean: Here's their welding room: Larry, the owner has a rock crawling rig: I got the rear shaft shorten about 8 inches and balanced for about $60. Here it is going on, I love that tranny jack adapter: I have a bit of vibration with the rear shaft and after talking to Larry he said this is the problem: The angle from the T-case to the center bearing is too extreme. So today I raised the center bearing support about 5/8 of an inch by putting the bearing on top of the bracket unstead of under it and using a spacer. That helped a lot but I may also lower the tranny just a fraction too. I also found a good place (Auto Air of OKla.) to do the AC conversion. $170 and they said they would blow out the system, evac and recharge with oil. They seemed to be confident that would be all that was needed. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2008 at 03:35 PM.

10-09-2006, 07:59 PM	#262 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 544	Good Night why is your angle so extreme??? __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 90 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 Reg Cab 22re 5spd Body Parts for the Phoenix 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-10-2006, 10:00 AM	#266 (permalink)
AH64ID Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,637	Its interesting that hwy is the worst since you have the best flow. The fan shouldnt ever have to run about 30mph.. it doesnt blow as much air as the rig moving does... I would think that your spining the water pump too fast at those rpms and the coolant cant cool.. are you running the stock h20 pump? If so.. that could be where the radiator is undersized... Really should a 3.4 take that much more to cool than a 3.0? __________________ -John '05 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 SLT 5.9 Cummins QC LB NV5600 6 Spd, Pricol EGT and boost, 2" Level, Jake Brake, Muffler Delete, filtered, lubed and bypassed by Amsoil, Mag-Hytec Rear, Fast Coolers, Baldwin 7977, Smarty JR SW#1, Toyo 285's... 2003 SR5 4Runner, V6 4WD. 1" cornfed lift Previous Toyota's '92 Red Truck NALA Speed doesn't kill, its the sudden stop that hurts.

10-10-2006, 10:47 AM	#267 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,863	Brian suggested some good tests to do and I also haven't begun tuning yet, all though the URD preloaded tuning seems to be pretty good. A/F ratio at wide open throttle is around 10 and I haven't heard any pinging. The only scarey thing is the EGT temps go up fast and hover between 1300 and 1400 deg F just crusing on the highway without boost (A/F is pretty much stuck around 14.7 crusing without boost), is that were it is suppost to be? __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-10-2006, 02:05 PM	#270 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,863	I'm running the .9mm nozzle for the WI, I can only go one step larger to 1mm, but I will try that. I only just added the methanol for 50/50 mix, I was using straight distilled water. Yeah I may be running a little lean on parts of the mild boost map, but everything happens so fast when you put your foot into it. I'm also running 5.29 gears and I need some hills or something to slow me down. I've never had the EGT go over 1400 though, even at wide open throttle. But you're right, 10 is pretty rich. I don't know why anyone would need injectors bigger than 318cc, unless you were running way more boost than 10 psi. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 10-10-2006 at 02:09 PM.

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