3.4 swap started - Page 10

mastacox · 10-03-2006, 08:56 AM

Man, every time I see new posts on this thread, I JUMP in here to see what's next...

This thread is way too addicitve... I'm gonna need a 12-stepper after you're done (if you're ever done LOL)...

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mt_goat · 10-03-2006, 09:01 AM

Yeah Brian I'm going to miss this project too when it's done. Maybe I'll just start another one LOL.

mastacox · 10-03-2006, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Yeah Brian I'm going to miss this project too when it's done. Maybe I'll just start another one LOL.

Dude, you've practicaly run out of stuff to do on this one, unless you go full size axles front and rear

But I never said that...

mt_goat · 10-03-2006, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasond

You know you can come over here and start mine

Yeah, Jason if you need a hand let me know. If you were next door, I'd be over all the time.

One of my neighbors keeps coming over and just shakes his head in disbelief.

04 Rocko Taco · 10-03-2006, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mastacox

Man, every time I see new posts on this thread, I JUMP in here to see what's next...

This thread is way too addicitve... I'm gonna need a 12-stepper after you're done (if you're ever done LOL)...

ME TOO!!!! I dont know what I'll do with my time when your done...

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Yeah, Jason if you need a hand let me know. If you were next door, I'd be over all the time.

One of my neighbors keeps coming over and just shakes his head in disbelief.

Can you blame him?

mt_goat · 10-04-2006, 07:12 AM

After a recent thread about the big 3 and trying to help the guy on how to do it, http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=95850 I realized I had only done 2 of the 3 on my truck. Seems like trying to help others often winds up helping me too.

The one I missed was the block ground to the battery. I was just using the 5VZ battery harness, and the ground cable is ok size (maybe 8 gauge) but bigger would be better. I had some 4 gauge welding cable left over so I decided to add that for a redundant ground.

I bolted the ground to the alternator mounting bolt:

And ran it over to my electrical staging area next to the battery. Kind of a mess (I never seem to be able to make wiring look good). I made room on the ground distribution block on the left, which was already connected directly to the (-) battery post with some 2 gauge welding cable:

As you can see here the wire didn't need to be very long to go from the alt to the grounding block.

mt_goat · 10-04-2006, 05:35 PM

Well I got the aluminum adapters today from ORS and they work great, no more fuel leak. So I finally got to drive the thing, is there a way I can add this

to my sig? It runs like a bat out of hell and it still doesn't have the O2 sensors in and I'm still using the 3.0 exhaust system. I hit just under 10 lbs of boost and I wasn't even over 4000 rpms. Tommorow it's off to the exhaust man.

2 problems that popped up. The parking lights and tail lights don't work anymore (the fuse was ok) I'll have to get out the DMM and trace that down. And my airhorn relay stuck on in my driveway, (neighbors must have loved that), I had to disconnect the battery to shut it off. I think the relay stuck on because it was located right next to a 9 inch subwoofer magnet. I moved it away some, and I'll see if it happens again.

jasond · 10-04-2006, 06:59 PM

Cool, bring it by the shop tomorrow if you can. I would LOVE to see it!!

mt_goat · 10-04-2006, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasond

Cool, bring it by the shop tomorrow if you can. I would LOVE to see it!!

Hey Jason, I'm going to the muffler shop tommorrow, after that's done maybe.

thefallman · 10-04-2006, 08:16 PM

Do you want some pics of my exhaust. I can also give you measurements on stock locations of O2 Sensors. I put them in at the exact measurements off of the head that they are on the 97 4runner.

It puts the CAT a bit close to the Tranny, but if you rotate to on a 45 it keeps it far enough away i didnt do that unfortunately.

But i never kicked in codes for O2 sensors either, in 1200 miles, towing 4000+lbs. which is more then i can say for the wifes stock grand cherokee.

OH and i also have 2.5 inch system all theway out from ORS Crossover. with 2.5 inch Summit CAT, and again NO CODES

thefallman · 10-04-2006, 08:22 PM

Grrr damn it im just going to do my own thread tonight.

mt_goat · 10-05-2006, 02:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

Do you want some pics of my exhaust. I can also give you measurements on stock locations of O2 Sensors. I put them in at the exact measurements off of the head that they are on the 97 4runner.

Too late for the pics I guess. On the O2 measurements, I already took the measurements from the donor exhaust, thanks anyway Fallman.

thefallman · 10-05-2006, 12:39 PM

i was going to do that thread last night but seems there is more wrong with the computer then just the battery cause now it wont stay on for more then 5 min and it locks up. seems the video card is on its last leg or something

mt_goat · 10-06-2006, 01:21 PM

I found out as I left in the dark to go to the muffler shop (6:45am) that in addition to the taillights and marker lights not working the dash lights and dome lights also didn't work. After chasing the bug for a while with a DMM and EWD I took off the lower dash panel below the steering wheel and suddenly the lights just started working fine on their own.

Except the dome light, it still has a bug somewhere.

After looking at the truck, the muffler shop wanted over $1000 to build a mandel bent exhaust from the crossover back. That plus the wait for bends to be shipped and the fact he wouldn't be able to tuck the pipes into tight places as well, I decided to go with regular bent 2 1/2" pipe. Maybe later I'll order some bends and tackle it with my TIG welder. I was tired of waiting to drive it.

Today on my way to get the rear driveshaft shortened I threw a PO 420 CEL. Appearantly my 2001 ECU doesn't like just having one cat. I'll probably give the URD O2 simulator a try on that if it keeps happening. A lot of Taco guys get that code even with 2 cats.

Biggest worry right now is the cooling system. The gauge is showing fine but the fan is running on high just cruising down the highway at 70 miles per hour on a 80 degree day. So I hooked up my laptop to the OBDII connector and monitored the coolant temp for about 15 miles. It is running around 185-195, and it is hottest at highway speeds.

This is with a 170 deg thermostat, and no air conditioning yet. Brian I'm not ready to say you're right, but I'm worried. Just how hot is too hot anyway? A stock Taurus thermostat doesn't even open until 198 deg. The trans temp is great, like around 160 deg

thefallman · 10-06-2006, 02:09 PM

Your oil in your engine doesnt start working efficiently till it gets above 170degrees. So your engine really should stay in the 170 to 200 range. i have seen car's that run higher. i really wouldnt worry till it gets above 212. Around 217 to 225 you start loosing fluid unless you have a really great sealed coolant system. as long as you keep your engine oil and tranny fluid the 170 to 195 range you shouldnt have any real problems. the problem with stock systems and getting over 200 degrees is the lack of seperate oil coolers and the fact that the engine oil and transmission oil cannot cool themselves down to a decent tempature because they are actually aquireing heat from the coolant that is supposed to be cooling them.

So if you put in engine oil coolers and tranny oil coolers it should remedy this problem and allow you to safely go higher. your head shouldnt warp unless you actually either run it out of coolant or get it up into the 350+ degree range. which would be quite hard withought running it out of coolant.

Most stock vehicles have the red zone starting somewhere around 245 or so. especially when you get into the newer cars.

mt_goat · 10-06-2006, 06:56 PM

Thanks for the info Fallman, I guess I'll just have to wait for some hot weather to really know if it will handle it.

Another problem that popped up is the overdrive button doesn't drop the tranny out of OD. I used to use that button all the time with the 3.slo just to get up a slight hill. At least I don't really need to drop out of OD anymore for that reason.

thefallman · 10-06-2006, 09:04 PM

Something else i plan on doing but ran out of time to do before i left washington was add aftermarket oil coolers for Engine, Tranny, and Transfer Case. and put Oil Thermostats on them. there are a few great ones out there made by perma-cool and by another company. Summit has them both.

Anyway they opperate just like the thermostat in you coolant system they recirculate the oil till it reaches 160 degrees then it starts to open at 160 and is fully open at 180 or 170 depending on the thermostat. this allows shorter warm up times in cold weather. Once they are open they circulate oil thru the oil coolers.

About the tranny O/D thing i can probably chase that down next week. mine works fine. i know i used the 3.0 tranny, but the O/D is actually computer controlled so its going to be in the conversion harness. ill look around first of next week and get an answer on that.

What year is the swap.

mt_goat · 10-07-2006, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thefallman

What year is the swap.

2001 engine, tranny and ECU, the OD light on the dash is visable all the time, but its not fully lit. When I push the button and light gets brighter but only stays fully lit while the button is depressed. Unlike the 3.0 shifter, the 3.4 shifter uses a momentary switch for the OD, so it doesn't stay up or down. The tranny does not shift in or out of OD when the button is pressed.

The ORS harness didn't have a lead for the OD switch, but it was wired per the ORS instructions. There were 2 sets of instructions for the OD switch, one if the ORS conversion harness had a lead and one for if there wasn't a lead.

thefallman · 10-07-2006, 08:28 AM

ill look it up tomorrow night today is kinda busy for me

Tanto · 10-07-2006, 08:43 AM

Glad to hear you got it up and running, Dale.

mt_goat · 10-07-2006, 11:48 AM

Thanks guys, yeah there are still a lot of bugs to work out. This isn't as fun now, there are no instructions for bug hunting.

Getting the AC going is looking to be expensive, 2 quotes so far for just evac and recharge were around $200. Everyone I'm talking to so far thinks the system needs to also be flushed to remove the R-12 oil. Whoever that was that figured out away to swap the motor and leave the 3.0 AC system sealed is looking pretty smart right now.

thefallman · 10-07-2006, 05:28 PM

hey goat. no need to flush the system just did this with mine and converted it to R134. all i did was change out the canister up front in the grill. thats where all the junk collects. then i blew out the whole system with compressed Air. changed the side plate on the 134 compressor so that my old 3.0 hoses would bolt up to the new pump. then i took it in and had it recharged. cost me $85 for the recharge. but it was a friend that did it for me. he also vacumed it before adding anything just to take the air out which was smart. but it blows cold cold it got down to 45 degrees in my cab with outside at 78

thefallman · 10-07-2006, 05:28 PM

no custom hoses the way i did it

mt_goat · 10-07-2006, 05:43 PM

Ok thanks, but how did you blow out the system? I mean where did you open it up to blow air in and where did the air & oil come out?

Yeah ORS didn't provide any custom hoses for the AC. All the AC is the 3.0 system except the compressor.

thefallman · 10-07-2006, 07:36 PM

yeah if you use the side plate off of the 3.0 compressor on the 3.4 compressor your hoses will work
and i blew out each componant seprately

i opened the hoses at the firewall and blew out the evaporator by it self then the condenser, then the hoses.

Did you swap the a/c Amplifier boards yet????

10-03-2006, 09:01 AM	#227 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Yeah Brian I'm going to miss this project too when it's done. Maybe I'll just start another one LOL. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-04-2006, 07:12 AM	#231 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	After a recent thread about the big 3 and trying to help the guy on how to do it, http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=95850 I realized I had only done 2 of the 3 on my truck. Seems like trying to help others often winds up helping me too. The one I missed was the block ground to the battery. I was just using the 5VZ battery harness, and the ground cable is ok size (maybe 8 gauge) but bigger would be better. I had some 4 gauge welding cable left over so I decided to add that for a redundant ground. I bolted the ground to the alternator mounting bolt: And ran it over to my electrical staging area next to the battery. Kind of a mess (I never seem to be able to make wiring look good). I made room on the ground distribution block on the left, which was already connected directly to the (-) battery post with some 2 gauge welding cable: As you can see here the wire didn't need to be very long to go from the alt to the grounding block. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 02-02-2008 at 03:31 PM.

10-04-2006, 05:35 PM	#232 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Well I got the aluminum adapters today from ORS and they work great, no more fuel leak. So I finally got to drive the thing, is there a way I can add this to my sig? It runs like a bat out of hell and it still doesn't have the O2 sensors in and I'm still using the 3.0 exhaust system. I hit just under 10 lbs of boost and I wasn't even over 4000 rpms. Tommorow it's off to the exhaust man. 2 problems that popped up. The parking lights and tail lights don't work anymore (the fuse was ok) I'll have to get out the DMM and trace that down. And my airhorn relay stuck on in my driveway, (neighbors must have loved that), I had to disconnect the battery to shut it off. I think the relay stuck on because it was located right next to a 9 inch subwoofer magnet. I moved it away some, and I'll see if it happens again. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 10-04-2006 at 05:48 PM.

10-04-2006, 08:16 PM	#235 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	Do you want some pics of my exhaust. I can also give you measurements on stock locations of O2 Sensors. I put them in at the exact measurements off of the head that they are on the 97 4runner. It puts the CAT a bit close to the Tranny, but if you rotate to on a 45 it keeps it far enough away i didnt do that unfortunately. But i never kicked in codes for O2 sensors either, in 1200 miles, towing 4000+lbs. which is more then i can say for the wifes stock grand cherokee. OH and i also have 2.5 inch system all theway out from ORS Crossover. with 2.5 inch Summit CAT, and again NO CODES __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think) Last edited by thefallman; 10-04-2006 at 08:17 PM.

10-04-2006, 08:22 PM	#236 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	Grrr damn it im just going to do my own thread tonight. __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-04-2006, 06:59 PM	#233 (permalink)
jasond Registered User Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 231	Cool, bring it by the shop tomorrow if you can. I would LOVE to see it!!

10-05-2006, 12:39 PM	#238 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	i was going to do that thread last night but seems there is more wrong with the computer then just the battery cause now it wont stay on for more then 5 min and it locks up. seems the video card is on its last leg or something __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-06-2006, 01:21 PM	#239 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	I found out as I left in the dark to go to the muffler shop (6:45am) that in addition to the taillights and marker lights not working the dash lights and dome lights also didn't work. After chasing the bug for a while with a DMM and EWD I took off the lower dash panel below the steering wheel and suddenly the lights just started working fine on their own. Except the dome light, it still has a bug somewhere. After looking at the truck, the muffler shop wanted over $1000 to build a mandel bent exhaust from the crossover back. That plus the wait for bends to be shipped and the fact he wouldn't be able to tuck the pipes into tight places as well, I decided to go with regular bent 2 1/2" pipe. Maybe later I'll order some bends and tackle it with my TIG welder. I was tired of waiting to drive it. Today on my way to get the rear driveshaft shortened I threw a PO 420 CEL. Appearantly my 2001 ECU doesn't like just having one cat. I'll probably give the URD O2 simulator a try on that if it keeps happening. A lot of Taco guys get that code even with 2 cats. Biggest worry right now is the cooling system. The gauge is showing fine but the fan is running on high just cruising down the highway at 70 miles per hour on a 80 degree day. So I hooked up my laptop to the OBDII connector and monitored the coolant temp for about 15 miles. It is running around 185-195, and it is hottest at highway speeds. This is with a 170 deg thermostat, and no air conditioning yet. Brian I'm not ready to say you're right, but I'm worried. Just how hot is too hot anyway? A stock Taurus thermostat doesn't even open until 198 deg. The trans temp is great, like around 160 deg __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000. Last edited by mt_goat; 10-06-2006 at 01:22 PM.

10-06-2006, 02:09 PM	#240 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	Your oil in your engine doesnt start working efficiently till it gets above 170degrees. So your engine really should stay in the 170 to 200 range. i have seen car's that run higher. i really wouldnt worry till it gets above 212. Around 217 to 225 you start loosing fluid unless you have a really great sealed coolant system. as long as you keep your engine oil and tranny fluid the 170 to 195 range you shouldnt have any real problems. the problem with stock systems and getting over 200 degrees is the lack of seperate oil coolers and the fact that the engine oil and transmission oil cannot cool themselves down to a decent tempature because they are actually aquireing heat from the coolant that is supposed to be cooling them. So if you put in engine oil coolers and tranny oil coolers it should remedy this problem and allow you to safely go higher. your head shouldnt warp unless you actually either run it out of coolant or get it up into the 350+ degree range. which would be quite hard withought running it out of coolant. Most stock vehicles have the red zone starting somewhere around 245 or so. especially when you get into the newer cars. __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-06-2006, 06:56 PM	#241 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Thanks for the info Fallman, I guess I'll just have to wait for some hot weather to really know if it will handle it. Another problem that popped up is the overdrive button doesn't drop the tranny out of OD. I used to use that button all the time with the 3.slo just to get up a slight hill. At least I don't really need to drop out of OD anymore for that reason. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-06-2006, 09:04 PM	#242 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	Something else i plan on doing but ran out of time to do before i left washington was add aftermarket oil coolers for Engine, Tranny, and Transfer Case. and put Oil Thermostats on them. there are a few great ones out there made by perma-cool and by another company. Summit has them both. Anyway they opperate just like the thermostat in you coolant system they recirculate the oil till it reaches 160 degrees then it starts to open at 160 and is fully open at 180 or 170 depending on the thermostat. this allows shorter warm up times in cold weather. Once they are open they circulate oil thru the oil coolers. About the tranny O/D thing i can probably chase that down next week. mine works fine. i know i used the 3.0 tranny, but the O/D is actually computer controlled so its going to be in the conversion harness. ill look around first of next week and get an answer on that. What year is the swap. __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think) Last edited by thefallman; 10-06-2006 at 09:27 PM.

10-07-2006, 08:28 AM	#244 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	ill look it up tomorrow night today is kinda busy for me __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-07-2006, 11:48 AM	#246 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Thanks guys, yeah there are still a lot of bugs to work out. This isn't as fun now, there are no instructions for bug hunting. Getting the AC going is looking to be expensive, 2 quotes so far for just evac and recharge were around $200. Everyone I'm talking to so far thinks the system needs to also be flushed to remove the R-12 oil. Whoever that was that figured out away to swap the motor and leave the 3.0 AC system sealed is looking pretty smart right now. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-07-2006, 05:28 PM	#247 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	hey goat. no need to flush the system just did this with mine and converted it to R134. all i did was change out the canister up front in the grill. thats where all the junk collects. then i blew out the whole system with compressed Air. changed the side plate on the 134 compressor so that my old 3.0 hoses would bolt up to the new pump. then i took it in and had it recharged. cost me $85 for the recharge. but it was a friend that did it for me. he also vacumed it before adding anything just to take the air out which was smart. but it blows cold cold it got down to 45 degrees in my cab with outside at 78 __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-07-2006, 05:28 PM	#248 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	no custom hoses the way i did it __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

10-07-2006, 05:43 PM	#249 (permalink)
mt_goat Contributing Member Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Oklahoma State Posts: 8,919	Ok thanks, but how did you blow out the system? I mean where did you open it up to blow air in and where did the air & oil come out? Yeah ORS didn't provide any custom hoses for the AC. All the AC is the 3.0 system except the compressor. __________________ ~Dale~ 93 4X4 ext-cab, auto, SR5, 3.4 V6, supercharged, 2.1" pulley, URD fuel mods, Aquamist WI, IPT valve body mod, dual cases, 4" superlift front, Alcan springs rear, 33 BFG MT, ARB locked front & rear, 5.29 US Gears, RB 1" Body Lift, 1.5" ball joint spacers, manual hubs, TJM T-17, Warn m8000.

10-07-2006, 07:36 PM	#250 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	yeah if you use the side plate off of the 3.0 compressor on the 3.4 compressor your hoses will work and i blew out each componant seprately i opened the hoses at the firewall and blew out the evaporator by it self then the condenser, then the hoses. Did you swap the a/c Amplifier boards yet???? __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think) Last edited by thefallman; 10-07-2006 at 11:06 PM.

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