3.4 swap problems?
08-05-2014, 06:05 AM
#62
Well you did get the wiring for both vehicles, right? Use cntrl+f (find) to search the EWDs with Adobe Reader (free). I had to stare at the EWDs for a couple days before they started making sense. I only used the "overalle" (overall) wiring diagrams for both vehicles. Then you just start matching function for function.
This has been repeated many times in almost every single thread here. In fact, so have most of your questions. Not that we don't like helping, I just feel like you're not helping yourself very much.
This has been repeated many times in almost every single thread here. In fact, so have most of your questions. Not that we don't like helping, I just feel like you're not helping yourself very much.
Last edited by vasinvictor; 08-05-2014 at 06:07 AM.
08-05-2014, 06:33 AM
#64
It will look like a cluster until you start separating and grouping them. There are some pretty good pics around her of what the harness should/could look like. It's not really a nice neat 1 bundle of wires. It has several "legs". And no doubt you'll have to cut and resolder half of your wires before you get it right.
08-05-2014, 07:22 AM
#65
Registered User
Thread Starter
No it really was a cluster. I had wires that ended up twisting twice over each other, so I just pulled it all back apart. I'll probably tape the connectors together, then go off that. Did anybody have a 3 wire junction? I had 2. One was all violet wires, for the cel. The other junc. Was all w-r. +B on two of them, then the third wire said switch signal. What does that mean?
08-05-2014, 10:29 AM
#67
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Thread Starter
So that's power then. Alright. I'll do what I can then post pictures. Like I said, couldn't find wire nus, so I'm just going to crimp them and make sure it all works. Then solder. What are the wires that are absolutely required to make it crank over? +b, sta and the trigger wire right?
08-05-2014, 10:40 AM
#68
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Read over your diagrams and match all of them up. Like Drew said all of this has been asked before. If you have a specific issue that your stuck on then people will chime in.
08-05-2014, 08:31 PM
#70
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Thread Starter
I said id post a picture, so here it is. its no where near done, but ill get back on it after I get to where I can see straight. sorry for quality.
08-06-2014, 04:32 PM
#71
Registered User
Thread Starter
1. so, why is it that even when I have nothing hooked up to the plugs, no ecu plugged in or anything, when I turn the key, the COR relay clicks, and my pump turns on. I know it turns on because I hadn't tightened the fuel line all the way, and I smelled, plus saw fuel.
2. I was working on pushing the harness through the fire wall, and absentmindedly placed the ecu on the battery.... long story short, it arced and I saw a bit of a spark...... what are the chances I fried the ecu? ill kick myself if I did.
3. im pretty sure I need to pull my gauges AGAIN. I did the tach mod (resistor on the back of it) because anytime I turn the key it jumps to 2-3k rpm and holds there. any knowledge on this?
4. plugged the ecu in to all the connectors in my shoddy harness half expecting it to atleast turn over once or twice, but no dice after key turn.
This is dntsdad's diagram on his 3.4 swap 101
this is part of my conv. harness. ive marked out whats what.
Can somebody confirm this?
And DNTSDAD if you read this im soldering the connections later, the butt connectors aren't here to stay.
5. Am I right in thinking the W-B wire from the Data Link Connector grounds to the body?
2. I was working on pushing the harness through the fire wall, and absentmindedly placed the ecu on the battery.... long story short, it arced and I saw a bit of a spark...... what are the chances I fried the ecu? ill kick myself if I did.
3. im pretty sure I need to pull my gauges AGAIN. I did the tach mod (resistor on the back of it) because anytime I turn the key it jumps to 2-3k rpm and holds there. any knowledge on this?
4. plugged the ecu in to all the connectors in my shoddy harness half expecting it to atleast turn over once or twice, but no dice after key turn.
This is dntsdad's diagram on his 3.4 swap 101
this is part of my conv. harness. ive marked out whats what.
Can somebody confirm this?
And DNTSDAD if you read this im soldering the connections later, the butt connectors aren't here to stay.
5. Am I right in thinking the W-B wire from the Data Link Connector grounds to the body?
08-06-2014, 08:10 PM
#72
Registered User
1. so, why is it that even when I have nothing hooked up to the plugs, no ecu plugged in or anything, when I turn the key, the COR relay clicks, and my pump turns on. I know it turns on because I hadn't tightened the fuel line all the way, and I smelled, plus saw fuel.
Are you positive that the green/yellow wire is not shorted out ,somewhere getting a ground? It should need a ground to energize the relay. Or the relay is ba maybe but doubtful
2. I was working on pushing the harness through the fire wall, and absentmindedly placed the ecu on the battery.... long story short, it arced and I saw a bit of a spark...... what are the chances I fried the ecu? ill kick myself if I did.
I doubt it. Just the case shorted out? It should be fine.
3. im pretty sure I need to pull my gauges AGAIN. I did the tach mod (resistor on the back of it) because anytime I turn the key it jumps to 2-3k rpm and holds there. any knowledge on this?
Did you let solder creep onto other points or traces on the board. Post a pic of the tach with what you soldered.
4. plugged the ecu in to all the connectors in my shoddy harness half expecting it to atleast turn over once or twice, but no dice after key turn.
Can't be much help on this. I don't recognize all your plugs so I'd be guessing. Must be a donor I'm not familiar with.
I will say that al you want to do is find the wire in your vehicles body harness that has the larger black/white wire. Confirm it goes to 12v when you crank, connect that to the starter trigger itself on the starter and also stub out a wire to connect conte STA on the ecm.
5. Am I right in thinking the W-B wire from the Data Link Connector grounds to the body?
Are you positive that the green/yellow wire is not shorted out ,somewhere getting a ground? It should need a ground to energize the relay. Or the relay is ba maybe but doubtful
2. I was working on pushing the harness through the fire wall, and absentmindedly placed the ecu on the battery.... long story short, it arced and I saw a bit of a spark...... what are the chances I fried the ecu? ill kick myself if I did.
I doubt it. Just the case shorted out? It should be fine.
3. im pretty sure I need to pull my gauges AGAIN. I did the tach mod (resistor on the back of it) because anytime I turn the key it jumps to 2-3k rpm and holds there. any knowledge on this?
Did you let solder creep onto other points or traces on the board. Post a pic of the tach with what you soldered.
4. plugged the ecu in to all the connectors in my shoddy harness half expecting it to atleast turn over once or twice, but no dice after key turn.
Can't be much help on this. I don't recognize all your plugs so I'd be guessing. Must be a donor I'm not familiar with.
I will say that al you want to do is find the wire in your vehicles body harness that has the larger black/white wire. Confirm it goes to 12v when you crank, connect that to the starter trigger itself on the starter and also stub out a wire to connect conte STA on the ecm.
5. Am I right in thinking the W-B wire from the Data Link Connector grounds to the body?
08-06-2014, 08:49 PM
#73
Registered User
Thread Starter
1. im almost positive that itsnot shorted. but it could be. I haven't touched it except to see what it was.
2. THANK JESUS
3. I will post pics tomorrow. I know I got the correct resistors, but it was probably crappy solder job anyway.
4. Mine wer IK1 and 2 from my 97 taco donor, and IH1 and 2 from the runner. other plug was the e5 ecu plug and the data link connector.
5. good to know. I think.
two wires im stumped on are coming from my runners body harness, one black/green, which I have marked as constant power to ecu, and the second, a white /green, marked ground for ecu. neither of these seem to fit into my harness, and im almost wondering if theyre connecting somewhere else. ill need to look at the other side of the connector that's still in the vehicle.
Good call on the voltmeter.
2. THANK JESUS
3. I will post pics tomorrow. I know I got the correct resistors, but it was probably crappy solder job anyway.
4. Mine wer IK1 and 2 from my 97 taco donor, and IH1 and 2 from the runner. other plug was the e5 ecu plug and the data link connector.
5. good to know. I think.
two wires im stumped on are coming from my runners body harness, one black/green, which I have marked as constant power to ecu, and the second, a white /green, marked ground for ecu. neither of these seem to fit into my harness, and im almost wondering if theyre connecting somewhere else. ill need to look at the other side of the connector that's still in the vehicle.
Good call on the voltmeter.
08-12-2014, 05:56 PM
#74
Registered User
Thread Starter
well, I have some odd news. my motor wouldn't turn over a full rotation. it would only turn abt 3/4 and stop, so I talked to the guy I got it from, he said hed find me a New motor and I could keep anything else I need off it. Alt, harness, mounts, pan, all of it. needless to say Miller Import Parts is the shiznit. anyway. ill be back at it as soon as they find a new motor. Anybody ever had that happen though? it would only turn 3/4 of a turn, then itd stop. checked the valves, checked out the bottom end, and couldn't finf NOTHIN. had to be on the crank.
08-12-2014, 08:05 PM
#75
well, I have some odd news. my motor wouldn't turn over a full rotation. it would only turn abt 3/4 and stop, so I talked to the guy I got it from, he said hed find me a New motor and I could keep anything else I need off it. Alt, harness, mounts, pan, all of it. needless to say Miller Import Parts is the shiznit. anyway. ill be back at it as soon as they find a new motor. Anybody ever had that happen though? it would only turn 3/4 of a turn, then itd stop. checked the valves, checked out the bottom end, and couldn't finf NOTHIN. had to be on the crank.
08-12-2014, 08:29 PM
#76
Registered User
Thread Starter
not completely, no. I was using a ratchet and when I had the pan out I couldn't see anything going on but it wouldn't make a complete revolution. any idea?
08-13-2014, 08:52 AM
#77
Registered User
Coolant (or any other fluid) in one of the cylinders? My first 3.4 turned out to have all kinds of issues from the PO, blown head gasket and both heads were cracked in multiple places, so after filling with coolant and allowing to sit for a week, when I finally went to start it, it would only turn maybe 1/8 of a rotation and stop. I pulled all the spark plugs, tried again and shot coolant out of a few of the spark plug holes.
I've also heard of a guy that used flywheel bolts (for the M/T) on the flex plate (for A/T) and them being too long and preventing the motor from turning over.
I've also heard of a guy that used flywheel bolts (for the M/T) on the flex plate (for A/T) and them being too long and preventing the motor from turning over.
08-13-2014, 10:55 AM
#78
When I bought my motor, I couldn't easily turn the motor over, and it seemed to catch in a place. I nearly passed on it. I cranked it back and forth until it freed up and it's been an excellent motor for over 10k now. Take your spark plugs out and see if you can spin it over. I kinda doubt it's seized partially.
12-07-2014, 01:56 PM
#80
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey, so to revive my old thread, I got the new motor in, runs fine, starts right up. I had to get a new clutch, so I got new clutch flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing yada yada. Anyway got all that installed, started it up and it idles high(bout 2k or a bit higher) but when I depress the clutch its like it doesn't disengage it and I play hell getting it into a gear and when I do, if the clutch pedal is up it doesn't move, but when I push it int, it lurches and starts to move. Now I'm no expert, but that seems a bit backwards to me. Any suggestions? Clutch adjustment? And how do I get the idle to drop? I don't have the exhaust in it yet, so no o2s, and I'm sure I have all the vacuum lines either plugger or routed. So any advice would be appreciated.
