3.4 Swap isn't starting now
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
3.4 Swap isn't starting now
Hey guys,
Did the 3.4 swap over a year ago, haven't driven it much but usually start it up every week or 2.
It WILL NOT start now, (ever since the temperature dropped below freezing, even when the temp goes up, still no start).
It's a 3.4 swap using an ORS harness. No problems with it before.
Fuel pressure gauge is reading zero... what would cause the pump not to turn on? Where should i check first?
I tried quick-start in the intake and nothing... didn't even fire...
It cranks no problem, just doesn't fire.... any ideas?
Greg
Did the 3.4 swap over a year ago, haven't driven it much but usually start it up every week or 2.
It WILL NOT start now, (ever since the temperature dropped below freezing, even when the temp goes up, still no start).
It's a 3.4 swap using an ORS harness. No problems with it before.
Fuel pressure gauge is reading zero... what would cause the pump not to turn on? Where should i check first?
I tried quick-start in the intake and nothing... didn't even fire...
It cranks no problem, just doesn't fire.... any ideas?
Greg
#2
Back to basics, air, fuel, spark.
What you're mentioning is the lack of seemingly two things. If the fuel pump isn't turning over you need to verify if the fuel pump works. If you can find the wires that lead to the fuel pump you can jump the wires to a battery and see if it pressurizes. I know on the old 3.0 you could jump some pins to pressurize the fuel system I'm not sure if you can do that on the swap.
If you're sprayed quick start into the intake and it still didn't start then you may seemingly have a ignition problem as well, as quick start should ignite but not keep the vehicle running.
I'd try to verify fuel pressure and spark first.
What you're mentioning is the lack of seemingly two things. If the fuel pump isn't turning over you need to verify if the fuel pump works. If you can find the wires that lead to the fuel pump you can jump the wires to a battery and see if it pressurizes. I know on the old 3.0 you could jump some pins to pressurize the fuel system I'm not sure if you can do that on the swap.
If you're sprayed quick start into the intake and it still didn't start then you may seemingly have a ignition problem as well, as quick start should ignite but not keep the vehicle running.
I'd try to verify fuel pressure and spark first.
#3
A couple quick checks:
-Is the check engine light on when the key is on and you are not cranking (engine off)? If the check engine light does not turn on in this case there is a ECU or ECU power source problem (EFI fuse). On some models this will also keep the fuel pump relay from turning on.
-If the check engine light is on in this case, I would chase the source of your fuel pressure problem. Is there voltage at the fuel pump when cranking (you will NOT find voltage with key on, engine off)? If not, test the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay, behind the RH ft. speaker are on most models).
You are welcome to email us direct for further assistance, sales@offroadsolutions.com.
-Is the check engine light on when the key is on and you are not cranking (engine off)? If the check engine light does not turn on in this case there is a ECU or ECU power source problem (EFI fuse). On some models this will also keep the fuel pump relay from turning on.
-If the check engine light is on in this case, I would chase the source of your fuel pressure problem. Is there voltage at the fuel pump when cranking (you will NOT find voltage with key on, engine off)? If not, test the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay, behind the RH ft. speaker are on most models).
You are welcome to email us direct for further assistance, sales@offroadsolutions.com.
#4
A couple quick checks:
-Is the check engine light on when the key is on and you are not cranking (engine off)? If the check engine light does not turn on in this case there is a ECU or ECU power source problem (EFI fuse). On some models this will also keep the fuel pump relay from turning on.
-If the check engine light is on in this case, I would chase the source of your fuel pressure problem. Is there voltage at the fuel pump when cranking (you will NOT find voltage with key on, engine off)? If not, test the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay, behind the RH ft. speaker are on most models).
You are welcome to email us direct for further assistance, sales@offroadsolutions.com.
-Is the check engine light on when the key is on and you are not cranking (engine off)? If the check engine light does not turn on in this case there is a ECU or ECU power source problem (EFI fuse). On some models this will also keep the fuel pump relay from turning on.
-If the check engine light is on in this case, I would chase the source of your fuel pressure problem. Is there voltage at the fuel pump when cranking (you will NOT find voltage with key on, engine off)? If not, test the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay, behind the RH ft. speaker are on most models).
You are welcome to email us direct for further assistance, sales@offroadsolutions.com.
Holy potato ORS is alive....
Pull a plug on the drivers side and check for spark. If yes, then you have a fuel problem. Might be worth hooking up a scanner and see if its throwing any codes. Might be worth checking the efi fuse.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Back to basics, air, fuel, spark.
What you're mentioning is the lack of seemingly two things. If the fuel pump isn't turning over you need to verify if the fuel pump works. If you can find the wires that lead to the fuel pump you can jump the wires to a battery and see if it pressurizes. I know on the old 3.0 you could jump some pins to pressurize the fuel system I'm not sure if you can do that on the swap.
If you're sprayed quick start into the intake and it still didn't start then you may seemingly have a ignition problem as well, as quick start should ignite but not keep the vehicle running.
I'd try to verify fuel pressure and spark first.
What you're mentioning is the lack of seemingly two things. If the fuel pump isn't turning over you need to verify if the fuel pump works. If you can find the wires that lead to the fuel pump you can jump the wires to a battery and see if it pressurizes. I know on the old 3.0 you could jump some pins to pressurize the fuel system I'm not sure if you can do that on the swap.
If you're sprayed quick start into the intake and it still didn't start then you may seemingly have a ignition problem as well, as quick start should ignite but not keep the vehicle running.
I'd try to verify fuel pressure and spark first.
A couple quick checks:
-Is the check engine light on when the key is on and you are not cranking (engine off)? If the check engine light does not turn on in this case there is a ECU or ECU power source problem (EFI fuse). On some models this will also keep the fuel pump relay from turning on.
-If the check engine light is on in this case, I would chase the source of your fuel pressure problem. Is there voltage at the fuel pump when cranking (you will NOT find voltage with key on, engine off)? If not, test the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay, behind the RH ft. speaker are on most models).
You are welcome to email us direct for further assistance, sales@offroadsolutions.com.
-Is the check engine light on when the key is on and you are not cranking (engine off)? If the check engine light does not turn on in this case there is a ECU or ECU power source problem (EFI fuse). On some models this will also keep the fuel pump relay from turning on.
-If the check engine light is on in this case, I would chase the source of your fuel pressure problem. Is there voltage at the fuel pump when cranking (you will NOT find voltage with key on, engine off)? If not, test the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay, behind the RH ft. speaker are on most models).
You are welcome to email us direct for further assistance, sales@offroadsolutions.com.
Haha no mice around here, it's sitting pretty in the garage...
And btw... it's probably something stupid... it usually is... lol...
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#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
A couple quick checks:
-Is the check engine light on when the key is on and you are not cranking (engine off)? If the check engine light does not turn on in this case there is a ECU or ECU power source problem (EFI fuse). On some models this will also keep the fuel pump relay from turning on.
-If the check engine light is on in this case, I would chase the source of your fuel pressure problem. Is there voltage at the fuel pump when cranking (you will NOT find voltage with key on, engine off)? If not, test the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay, behind the RH ft. speaker are on most models).
You are welcome to email us direct for further assistance, sales@offroadsolutions.com.
-Is the check engine light on when the key is on and you are not cranking (engine off)? If the check engine light does not turn on in this case there is a ECU or ECU power source problem (EFI fuse). On some models this will also keep the fuel pump relay from turning on.
-If the check engine light is on in this case, I would chase the source of your fuel pressure problem. Is there voltage at the fuel pump when cranking (you will NOT find voltage with key on, engine off)? If not, test the fuel pump relay (circuit opening relay, behind the RH ft. speaker are on most models).
You are welcome to email us direct for further assistance, sales@offroadsolutions.com.
#12
Registered User
I'm always a believer that fuses don't blow just randomly.
Carry a few spares, but hunt down the issue that caused it to blow.
Glad to hear you got it running.
Carry a few spares, but hunt down the issue that caused it to blow.
Glad to hear you got it running.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
I once had both my low beam fuses blow at the same time in -20 weather.... That was a pain to change in the parking lot prior to my drive home! Never happened again after tho....
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