aztoyman

Here's some pics of the heater hoses. I used combinations of the stock 3.4 hoses and bought one heater hose for an 88 truck with the 3.0. It's the one that loops back from the heater valve. Both hoses ended up being two pieces connected with the nipples for the rear heat lines.



You can also see where I flipped the fuel supply line at the fuel rail and where I used salvaged tubing to get the return line over to the stock return line location.



Here's the nipples. I cut the smaller tubes off and welded them shut.

aztoyman

Here's where I bent the stock fuel line over and again used salvaged tubing to make a fuel line so I could mount the stock filter on the inner fender.

You can also see my fabbed slave cylinder line I also made from salvaged tubing. I made it so I had plenty of room to get to my starter when needed.

aztoyman

Alternator clearance is tight. This is why I had to use a shorter belt I mentioned in another post.

I didn't modify the bracket at all. Completely stock, just a shorter belt. Part of the problem is because I had moved my steering box forward and changed the angle for my SAS.

aztoyman

I decided that I didn't like the stock power steering hose I bought for a non ABS 88 with a 3.0. It fit but had all kinds of bends and just didn't fit right. I also didn't like trying to snake 3/8" power steering return hose through everything.

So, I decided to modify the hose. I have two sets of stock 99 4Runner 3.4 P/S hoses laying around and plenty of time on my hands.

I re-bent the 88 3.0 P/S line to fit the way I liked it to. The banjo bolt end had a long weird hard line section that stuck up and hit my air box.

I decided to cut the end off the 3.0 hose and weld on the end I cut off the 3.4 hose. The 3.4 banjo is pretty thick. The original line looked to be silver soldered in. After I cut off the tube, I drilled it out with a 3/8" bit and slid the 3.0 tube in before welding it.



Now I have a better fit and I have a place to put my P/S pressure sensor.

I also re-bent the stock 99 Runner return hard line. I didn't even have to cut it. I salvaged the clamps that hold the pressure and return lines parallel to each other to keep everything in place. The hard line fits better than a full length of hose. I just used hose over the barbs on the ends.

Plenty of room to drop the rad in. Nothing hits or rubs.



Here's a view from the bottom.



Gear box side.



Pump side.

aztoyman

Now that everything is fit up, the engine is coming back out today so I can finish welding in the mounts.

I'll also have room to weld in my shock hoop braces and bump stops and get some paint on it.

aztoyman

Got the mounts all welded in as well as the shock hoop braces. Painted it up and stuck the engine back in.

Got everything under the hood pretty much hooked up. Fits nice and almost looks factory. You can definitely notice the 1 1/2" dropped radiator.



I used a bell housing from a 3.0 R150F on my R151F. I needed something to cover up the opening in the lower half of the bell housing so I made this cover plate out of aluminum. There was still a slight gap near the oil pan so I ran some tape across both sides and filled it in with black RTV. Now it snugs up to the pan tighter.



I also didn't like the fact that a hot converter was going to be right below me so I combined the stock heat shield and the converter heat shield from the donor vehicle.

I just riveted the two together and it bolted right up to the stock bolt holes. Fits perfect and should keep the heat off the floor.

Stock one on the left for the 22RE pipe. 99 4Runner converter shield on right.



Here's a top and bottom view of the two riveted together.

aztoyman

FIRED IT UP TODAY!!! Started right up. Idles smooth, sounds great, no leaks.

Evac'd the A/C and charged it. Nice and cold. Used the 3.4 A/C amplifier so it idles up when you turn it on. Clutch cycles off when it gets icy cold like it should.

I haven't done the tach mod yet so the tach doesn't read at all. Alt is charging and oil pressure and temp gauges work.

I do have a check engine light. I haven't wired in the OBDII diagnostic connector yet and I haven't verified which O2 sensor goes where so maybe part of the problem? I'm sure I'll have some bugs to work out.

Still working on the floor and shifters. Got my Davez Triple Shifters today. No drive lines yet either.

Finally getting somewhere!

rworegon

CEL may be related to the tach being non-op and/or from no O2 sensor. Nice work!

aztoyman

Fixed the CEL. I didn't push the connector all the way on the coolant sensor. Found it flopping around on top of the intake right behind the plastic timing cover.

I can hardly wait to see how this compares to the 22RE.

aztoyman

I tried to go back to an earlier post showing my exhaust and add these pics but, it wouldn't let me. So here is the installed exhaust, 22RE to 3.4.

Modified crossover. Didn't add any tube, just cut, repositioned and welded back up where I wanted it. I used heat wrap because of the close proximity to things I didn't want toasted. Hopefully I won't have rust out issues here in AZ.



I noticed the heavy carbon buildup around the stock exhaust manifolds which showed the gasket location. Decided to hit the ports with a carbide burr, open them up and blend them in a little bit. Didn't take long and looks like they will flow a little better. You can see the difference from the untouched one on top.



Here's the installed system. Pretty cheap to build. All stock up to cat. Cat back was one 4' section of 2 1/2" tube, two 45 degree mandrel bends and a cheap turbo muffler from Summit.

The camera angle makes the converter heat shield look out of position but it is right over the cat.

I need to get some shorter bolts for my lower bell housing cover.



My skid plate is dropped because I'm cutting the floor for the shifters. (V6 Skid Plate!)

aztoyman

Installed my Marlin Short Throw Shifter and Davez Off Road Triple Sticks today.

Whipped my ass! Had to modify the hell out of the trans tunnel. Had the duals out three times today trying to get things to fit.

Stuck the stock T-case shift lever in my press and made it straight. Needed it to come straight up between Davez shifters. The triple came out nice. Should have room left for my ammo box console.

Still have to dog leg my trans shifter. It hits the dash below the stereo BAD. Shouldn't be too bad to fix.

My trans tunnel is HACKED UP right now. I'll get pics up once I make it Purdy again. I'm just going to open it up around the trans and cases for easy access and make a new cover.

aztoyman

Got back to my swap. Sorry it's going so slow. Back to work, 10 hour shifts and still recovering from back surgery. 10# weight limit sucks.

Here's my modified shifter. Found a big bolt, cut the shank out and welded in a dog leg.





Here's the 3/4" x 1/8" angle frame I made to fill the giant hole I cut in the floor. I thought I may as well have plenty of room for service if I need to get to my cases or shifters. Also made a cover out of some aluminum I had. I used Thread Setter inserts for the bolts.





Here's where the shifters ended up. I stuck the stock T-case shifter in a press and straightened it up to come up straight in between the Davez shifters.




You can see how far up under the dash the trans shifter sits.

aztoyman

Here's the cover on. The shifters are in 2wd both cases in High, Trans in Neutral. I thought about shortening the Trans shifter but, a lot of test fitting went into this. I'm 6'3" and a fat 270lbs. My hand rests on my knee right next to the shifter in that position. The short throw keeps it from hitting my dash or T-case shifters.







Here's both cases in 4 Low and trans in 3rd. Closest the shifters will get to each other. Close but, don't touch.




Originally, I was going to put the triple boot up from the bottom. It was going to be a pain to secure it. I'm going to cut the slots bigger to allow for the shifters to torque over and just make a ring to secure the boot from the top. I'll do the same for the trans shifter boot. Here's a look with boots. I'll try to finish it up tomorrow.

aztoyman

I cut up the original 99 Runner shift boot and mounting plate to cover my dog legged shifter.




Welded the pieces together, added a couple more mounting holes and stuck some Thread-Setter inserts into the cover plate to mount it.



Here's the finished product.

4x4runr

Looks great!!!! I really like the fuel supply line! Way to go man!

aztoyman

Thanks. Wasn't sure anybody was really following this anymore. It's taking me forever to do this but, it gives me time to be picky about how I do things.

Being off work for months make me extra cheap too. Gotta use what I have. No extra money for fun stuff. Been selling and trading parts for what I don't have.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

I'm following too. I like your nice quality pictures you're taking. I just haven't said anything because it looks like you get er figured out! Nice work!

aztoyman

I haven't figured out my tach yet. Got a 5k ohm 15 turn trim pot ordered. Hopefully it will get it working.

Finishing up the intake also. Running a tube to the cowl like 4crawler did. (Under the fender) I don't have the fender liner and don't want to hydro lock this motor. I'll post pics when it's done.

All I really need to do is the tach, intake tube, stick the interior back in and drive lines. I want to move my rear axle forward one inch too.

Trying to get it registered with emission exemption. I no longer daily drive it (to work or school) and live outside the emissions required zone. Just have to get the paper work done.

I'm sure it would pass anyway. It's all stock low mileage 99 4Runner. All emissions equipment hooked up. Actually, I used a 2002 3.4 long block I got from a bud with only 40 k on it. The 99 has 125 k and is my spare. I got lucky.

aztoyman

Got a little more done. Finished up my under fender snorkel. 4Crawler style.

Had to cut the air filter housing down so I could get the inlet elbow as close in as possible. Also had to JB Weld some 3" exhaust tubing into the plastic so I had an attachment point for the elbow. It took some grinding and heating with a small propane torch to get the tube into the air box.




Here's where I cut into the cowl. All the ugly stuff you see around the hole is where I had to do a little welding to repair my first attempt for access. Changed my design plans. I used a 3" exhaust elbow with a 3" bend radius to get it in tight.



Any water that does get in the cowl should drain freely out the large hole to the left. The intake tube is about 1/4" above the bottom. I added a notch under the tube for an extra drain in case my truck is angled down.




The 3" tube BARELY clears the fender. I had to weld in an extension to the elbow to lengthen the leg. The silicone coupler was thick enough that it hit the fender and bulged it out. The top view pic shows how tight I had to mount it. The coupler had enough room at the point where the inner fender flared inward a little. I could have just run the tube all the way to the air box elbow but, I may weld the tube to the cowl and didn't want it hanging out that far without support.





Here's the whole intake system. You can see how tight it is. I had to MASSAGE the elbow at the cowl a little with a 4# hammer to make a little flat spot. Gave me just a little more clearance from the fender.



I really don't think it will restrict air flow if you compare it to the original plastic intake. (Threw it out so I don't have a pic) It was smaller diameter and had a necked down trumpet looking end. The giant above roof snorkels don't seem to hurt performance.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I need to know do you take pictures for your day job. ???

this is one of the best most professional write ups I have read.

I picked up a great deal of information