3.4 into my rocky Daihatsu
11-16-2010, 09:47 PM
#21
... do you have a video of the smoke? could be condensation. if it was coolant you would smell something sweet. Those motors run rich until its warmed up and comes out of closed loop. You could just be freaking out over nothing. However, the early 3.4 motors from 95.5 to 97 had headgasket failures as well.
11-16-2010, 10:39 PM
#22
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Just have straight water in the cooling system but im 100% possitive that if I was to put coolant I would be able to smell it. No I dont have a video but I will take a picture of the amount of smoke that comes out. Just to give you an idea of the amount of smoke , my neighboor came over to see if everything was ok because he thought there was a fire in my garage.
Despite being very bummed out about the engine I continued to work on other things and managed to finish the trans crossmember and mount the clutch master and attatch it to the peddal.
Basicaly all thats left is....
Drive Shaft
Trans Shifters
Clutch line from master to slave
And now the unexpected project of fixing my motor.
Despite being very bummed out about the engine I continued to work on other things and managed to finish the trans crossmember and mount the clutch master and attatch it to the peddal.
Basicaly all thats left is....
Drive Shaft
Trans Shifters
Clutch line from master to slave
And now the unexpected project of fixing my motor.
11-18-2010, 09:15 AM
#23
It was a LOT of smoky steam. I couldnt figure out what it was. It took maybe 100 miles of driving before it went away completely.
I'd put coolant in or perhaps food coloring in the water and see if the smoke changes color or the liquid changes color. That will tell you instantly if there is a headgasket leak or other leak.
Also, my spark plugs looked fine. Is it running rich? Could it be raw fuel - sticking injector?
I'd put coolant in or perhaps food coloring in the water and see if the smoke changes color or the liquid changes color. That will tell you instantly if there is a headgasket leak or other leak.
Also, my spark plugs looked fine. Is it running rich? Could it be raw fuel - sticking injector?
11-18-2010, 11:11 AM
#24
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That's very good news to hear! I will hope for the best.
I did a leak down check on all the cylinders and they were all good with about a 8 psi diff cold and 5 psi diff with engine warmed up. I also presurized the cooling system while cold and hot and it holds pressure. At this point I'm not going to worry about it and carry on with the project, hopefully it will go away on it's own like ukrunners did
I did a leak down check on all the cylinders and they were all good with about a 8 psi diff cold and 5 psi diff with engine warmed up. I also presurized the cooling system while cold and hot and it holds pressure. At this point I'm not going to worry about it and carry on with the project, hopefully it will go away on it's own like ukrunners did
11-27-2010, 08:14 PM
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I have completely finished all the exahaust, modified and finished trans shifters, finished trans crossmember, and with the exhaust finished I have run it for awhile 4-5 times and the steam seems to be gone! supper stoked about that!
All that remains is
Drive Shaft (planing on using a toyota front drive shaft for the rear, just need to make it about 3 inches shorter.)
Run the hard line from the clutch master to slave
install a larger Griffin radiator and find some stong electric cooling fans of a car from the junk yard.
I will start posting some pictures of some of the work that was done durring this project.
All that remains is
Drive Shaft (planing on using a toyota front drive shaft for the rear, just need to make it about 3 inches shorter.)
Run the hard line from the clutch master to slave
install a larger Griffin radiator and find some stong electric cooling fans of a car from the junk yard.
I will start posting some pictures of some of the work that was done durring this project.
12-05-2010, 09:12 PM
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Built up the centering hole on the rocky flange with some welds, then using the lathe I cut it down to the same dimension as the toyota flanges
I had to redrill the rear toyota flange the accept the front toyota drive shaft that I am using for my rear
The toyota front drive shaft needed 1 1/4 inch of length removed in order for it to work as my rear drive shaft. On one end of the drive shaft using a lathe the weld was cut off and the tube was cut off right behind the weld. Then the tube was removed from the shoulder side of the driveshaft and 1 1/4 was cut off the tube. Then pushed the shoulder end back into the tube and welded it back together
I had to redrill the rear toyota flange the accept the front toyota drive shaft that I am using for my rear
The toyota front drive shaft needed 1 1/4 inch of length removed in order for it to work as my rear drive shaft. On one end of the drive shaft using a lathe the weld was cut off and the tube was cut off right behind the weld. Then the tube was removed from the shoulder side of the driveshaft and 1 1/4 was cut off the tube. Then pushed the shoulder end back into the tube and welded it back together
Last edited by omaotek; 12-05-2010 at 09:23 PM.
