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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 36
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3.4 Exhaust temps, Whats normal?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,727
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Where are you measuring your exhaust? Are you talking exhaust gas temps or your manifolds?
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1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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have you hooked up a scanner to your rig to check codes?
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92 toyota truck 3.4 5spd 4.56 gears magna flow cat and muffler2 1/4 piping isr mod to intake 1.5 bjsfront add a leafs and 2inch lift shackles rear rancho shocks all around sitting on 265/75/r16 nitto terra grapplers |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 36
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I was measuring the temp at the crossover/y-pipe flange area using a infared thermometer.
No codes yet hopefully I can round up a scanner tonight. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Loveland, CO
Posts: 88
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This is a concern of mine as well. I'm finally doing my swap. I just got done drilling out the oil dip stick and have been contemplating how to tackle the cross over pipe. my donor is a 2003 so I have the double walled (with some kind of insulation) pipe. I'll have to build mine from scratch, but I was talking to someone who worked closely with ORS and found out that there's alot of issues with the heat and that x-over pipe (wires have been melted, carpets have been on fire).
So beyond the ceramic coating and the header wrap, what are others doing to keep the temps down on their pipe?
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DD - 02 ext-cab Taco, SAW/AAL lift, Armor a la budbuilt, bentup and badlands, manual hub conversion, 265/75-16 TKO's Project - 85 ext-cab lawn ornament |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Orange County, SoCal
Posts: 459
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I had both the x-over & exhaust manifolds ceramic coated and have no heat issues at all. I also have header wrap on the x-over, but the ceramic coating is both inside and outside so I have no real concerns about it getting too hot.
If you are concerned about the heat then you will need to make heat shielding with an air gap between it and the exhaust system.
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"If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right" my father-in-law 1989 4wd Xtra Cab, 3.4L V6 A340F auto, gear drive transfer case, 3" Downey rear leafs, 1.5" BJ spacers, Doetsch Tech shocks front & rear, E-code Hellas 4.88 gears, ARB locked F&R, Toyo Open Country MT 255/85R/16, Procomp 16x8 black steel Krawlers Badlands Basher front bumper, Warn M8000 winch, All-Pro Off-Road rear Tacoma bumper Revenge Fabrication Sliders Alpine CDA 9857 My 3.4 swap |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 283
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heat
Checking the temps at that spot might not be your best indicator of engine performance. The first thing you want to verify is that after it's warmed up, check the temp of each header tube or manifold 'stem' at about the same distance from your head (about 1" is good to start). Scan up and down the pipe slowly & you'll see why this is important. If you have a dead or lean cylinder, you'll see it right away.
You should see temps in the 480-700 degree range; the number isn't yet important- the actual consistency between cylinders is. Checking temp down the pipe only serves to show you hot spots for that particular running condition.
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93 4 Runner / 3.4 swap / R151F swap / cash swap / 33s/ SDORI 1.5 BJ spacers / OME 900s |
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