3.0 to 3.4 engine removal

dem0nk1d · 11-11-2009, 08:34 PM

would you say it's eaiser to just remove the engine by it's self, or the engine and trans at the same time? i'm going to be yanking out my 3.0 slow here in a few days.

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yodathespian87 · 11-11-2009, 09:01 PM

I have done both. If you take the just the engine out then you have to squeeze your hands and tools between the firewall and the crossover pipe (which also has to come off to get the bolt out that sits right there) If you take it out with the transmission. then you take out the 4 bolts at the bottom of the transfer case and and then the 4 big bolts on the cross member. Then the engine mounts. In either case I recommend taking out the radiator, and the exhaust. If you are just swapping the engine then I would just take it out.

RobD · 11-11-2009, 09:07 PM

I pulled mine with the transmission and transfer case still attached. It can be done, but if I were to do it again, I'd use a Sawzall and cut the exhaust pipe, unbolt the tranny, and yank just the engine.

But that's just me.

yodathespian87 · 11-12-2009, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RobD

I pulled mine with the transmission and transfer case still attached. It can be done, but if I were to do it again, I'd use a Sawzall and cut the exhaust pipe, unbolt the tranny, and yank just the engine.

But that's just me.

I did that with one of my 4Runners. I cut the front clip off, and then I cut the exhaust and all hoses and wires. (Only cause I'm getting ready to do a 1uz swap to it.) I think pulli8ng just the engien would be the easiest though you may have to spend some time taking off the accessories.

dem0nk1d · 11-12-2009, 12:20 PM

that wouldn't be a bad idea to have a whole once peace tubed front end clip that just unbolts on and off. That would be idea for getting work done fast.

904_runner · 11-12-2009, 01:17 PM

i just took the motor out only..

easy enough.

dem0nk1d · 02-03-2010, 05:15 PM

So i'm pretty much ready to toss out the old 3.0 engine and put in the 3.4 engine. I've been looking high and low for a good deal to come my way and i think i've found it.

The motor is out of a 3.4 4x4 Manual 4Runner. They turned it over for me and everything sounded fine. I got a quote for 1150.00 including the motor and all attached accessories, wiring harness, and computer.

What do you guys think?

My Truck is a 92 3.slow 4x4 Manual. I'm pretty sure this will be a easier swap as the donor is a manual as well. Also i'm trying to get the engine B.A.R'd by the California Ref.

dem0nk1d · 02-03-2010, 05:26 PM

oh you guys happen to know where the ECU is located in the 97-2000 4Runner's? I checked the kick panel and found what looks to be a ABS box or something. No ECU.

RobD · 02-03-2010, 06:33 PM

Sounds like a reasonable price to me.

You need to make sure you grab the evap box as well, because you're going to need it for your smog cert. Grab anything you can from the emissions.

The ECU is likely located above the glove box.

Not sure if you will have a problem with the 4Runner ECU in a pickup. I'd check to see if they want the ECU from a truck, as well. Check Cadman's thread for more info.

**DeathCougar** · 02-03-2010, 06:36 PM

ECU is indeed above the glove box, under a black plastic shroud. First remove the glove box, then remove the plastic shroud, and you will see the ECU behind it.

dem0nk1d · 02-03-2010, 07:19 PM

i think i should be fine the SUV/Truck is in the same class. Now if i did a swap from a straight 6 out of a supra i would fail, as it's for a car. IDK i think i should be fine. and if they are looking for a visual i think i could just swap out ecu boards or cases to match. =)

dem0nk1d · 02-03-2010, 07:37 PM

Vehicle family Rule:
Engine must come from a vehicle from the same family, ie. light duty to light duty, medium and heavy duty to same. What surprised me was the family range. Everything from a mini to a 1 ton truck is considered light duty, and engines can be interchanged. Everything greater than 1 ton pickup is considered med/heavy duty and thus cannot be used as a donor into a car.

Catalytic Converters:
CATs are not required to be installed on vehicles that did not come with them installed from the factory.
Kicker: OBDII donor vehicles have post CAT O2 sensors. These cannot be disabled in any way. Without the CATs, the PCM will throw a code, thus creating an issue with the conversion. So, although the CATs themselves are not required, if the Donor vehicle is OBDII, then by proxy, they are required.

Misc. Emissions controls:
EVERY piece of emissions package is required from the donor vehicle. That would include fuel tank (to include fuel pressure sensor), evaporative canister and all lines from and to the tank.

Referee inspection:
Pre-75 vehicles (vehicles not requiring smog tests) do not have to be referee certified. However, CHP (or any law enforcement officer, I suppose) can write you an emissions citation, which would need a visit to the referee to sign off to cancel the citation (fixit ticket). Apparently, the State is actively looking at modified vehicles for emissions violations (roadside checkpoints as mentioned previously)

TatonkaII · 02-03-2010, 08:31 PM

whats the mileage???

RobD · 02-03-2010, 08:42 PM

I hadn't heard anything about the fuel tank before. That's news. I'd check Cadman's thread about the trials and tribulations he went through to get his certified.

dntsdad · 02-03-2010, 08:42 PM

they wont care as long as you have everything that your donor vehicle had.

Grab the airbox, ecm, wiring, Evap box, idle up (screws into the power steering pump), try to get the whole power steering pump, and the ignitor.

I would also grab the OBD2 plug above the gas pedal and the circuit opening relay on the bottom of the fuse panel in the drivers kickpanel.

I think that is a fair price. Not great but fair. Since I have found my donor I have seen some really great deals of course. nothing before.

I still wouldnt do the swap myself again without the whole vehicle here.

dem0nk1d · 02-07-2010, 07:08 PM

Whats the best way to get the rear exhaust cross over off so i can get to the top engine/trans bolts. also ideas on starter removal, whats the best way of getting it out, due to the limited space.

Yanking out the 3.0 for the 5vz Swap.

TNRabbit · 02-07-2010, 07:35 PM

Why remove the starter if you're removing the engine??

You can get at the downpipe from below looking up the exhaust with an impact wrench & extensions. No need to remove the crossover pipe & starter....

allnmstkn313 · 02-07-2010, 07:42 PM

You may well find it easier to pull the engine with the transmission attached.

TNRabbit · 02-07-2010, 07:54 PM

Just be sure you drain the tranny first; I dump a load of gear oil onto my driveway when I pulled mine~

dem0nk1d · 02-07-2010, 07:56 PM

i thought the starter has to be removed from the trans, as it will be holding the engine and trans together. Now i could be wrong, as this is the first time I've pulled the engine from my truck. Every other engine setup I've doubt with the started needed to be pulled.

I tried a extra long ext. And no go. I'm going to try some penetration fluid and see what happens. If last resort i'm taking the sawzaw to the SOB. I'm not keeping any of the 3.0 parts, so it doesn't matter. =)

greatahjeremy · 02-07-2010, 07:59 PM

I unbolted the cross over with extensions from underneath then pushed it down a bit and I could access the top three tranny bolts no problem with a box wrench. as for the starter, just remove the cover in the wheel well and then unbolt the starter and it WILL come out, you just have to finesse it a bit with different angles. I just did this stuff last week and it all worked like a charm.

pb4ugotobed · 02-07-2010, 10:03 PM

I don't unbolt the corssover. I leave them right where they are. The only exhaust part I unbolt to pull a 3.0 is the 3 bolts on the downpipe, and the 2 bolts holding the shoe-horn looking bracket to the bell housing. The 2 bolts on the top of the bell housing look intimidating, but aren't really that bad. Use a long transmission impact extension, like one of those 3 foot long ones. Most will fit in a half inch impact gun and have a 3/8 head on the end. Use a 17mm swivel socket on the end of it. The one on the upper right (looking at it from underneath, top on the passenger side) is easy to get off. The upper left one (top drivers side) can be kind of a bitch, but if you use a swivel joint AND a swivel socket with your long extension it'll come right out. I personally use a big 24" long 1/2" ratchet because I don't like using impact guns with a swivel on a swivel socket... kinda dangerous if it catches wrong, kinda starts flying at you fast. once you get it broke loose, you're golden.

You do have to unbolt the starter to seperate the bell housing from the block. The rear bolt goes through the bell housing, through the spacer plate, and into the starter. The front bolt does the opposite. The spacer plate bolts to the engine block with 1 10mm bolt behind your flywheel or flexplate, depending on if you're auto or manual tranny. Using that same long ass extension it's really easy to get the bolt in the back of the starter, and if you remove your skid plate you can burp the front bolt off with an impact gun as well. You can pull one of those starters out in 20 minutes. Or for what you need, which is just to unbolt it and let it hang down there, 5 minutes.

dem0nk1d · 02-07-2010, 11:15 PM

So i picked the motor up on sat morning which worked out great. the guys had everything ready for me to load up into the back of my buddies pickup. i got the engine and everything connected to it... AC, Power Steering, Air Box, etc.. You get the picture. Ecu and wiring harness of course, and the huge box looking deal for smog. I'm going to head down to the junk yard to get the obdII connector as i will need it to get the truck BAR'd. But all in all i think it was a pretty good find.

Now i'm working on getting the old 3.0 of my truck. Can't get the top tran bolts out because of the stock crossover on the 3.0 Bolt/nuts will not budge. Tomorrow when i get off of work, i'm going to give it another shot with some penetrating oil, and see what gives.

dntsdad · 02-07-2010, 11:21 PM

Cool deal on the motor score.

On the tranny bolt grab about 3' of extension and get at it that way. Thats what I did. Its a bitch though for sure. Was REALLY nice reinstalling everything after the body lift was on!!

dem0nk1d · 02-08-2010, 09:45 AM

I'll be checking everything out when i get home today. If for some reason i can't get that crossover out because of stuck bolts. I guess it's going to meet Mr.SawZaw.

11-11-2009, 09:01 PM	#2 (permalink)
yodathespian87 Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado Posts: 542	I have done both. If you take the just the engine out then you have to squeeze your hands and tools between the firewall and the crossover pipe (which also has to come off to get the bolt out that sits right there) If you take it out with the transmission. then you take out the 4 bolts at the bottom of the transfer case and and then the 4 big bolts on the cross member. Then the engine mounts. In either case I recommend taking out the radiator, and the exhaust. If you are just swapping the engine then I would just take it out. __________________ 86 Pickup 4x2, Manual (Sold) 87 Extra Cab Pickup 4x4, Manual (Sold) 93 4Runner 4x4, Manual, 3.4 Swap In progress 90 4Runner 4x4, Manual, Blown 3.0 (Stripping out for parts then to become a trail rig/camping/fun truck) 94 Lexus SC400, 1UZ, magnaflow exhaust, after market headlights, bought for parts for the swap into the 90 4Runner, DD at the moment.

11-11-2009, 09:07 PM	#3 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,845	I pulled mine with the transmission and transfer case still attached. It can be done, but if I were to do it again, I'd use a Sawzall and cut the exhaust pipe, unbolt the tranny, and yank just the engine. But that's just me. __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

11-12-2009, 12:20 PM	#5 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	that wouldn't be a bad idea to have a whole once peace tubed front end clip that just unbolts on and off. That would be idea for getting work done fast. __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

11-12-2009, 01:17 PM	#6 (permalink)
904_runner Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Chico, California Posts: 3,878	i just took the motor out only.. easy enough. __________________ Mike 1990 4runner: 3.4 swapped, 5-speed, sas'd, Rear leaf swap, front high pinion W/ARB, 30 spline longfields with chromo hub gears, 5.29's, 39.5" iroks on Beadlocks, Armor'd Duals coming soon: Pending funds My build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f152/904_run...thread-158746/ http://www.treadlightly.org/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ery/index.html

02-03-2010, 05:15 PM	#7 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	found 3.4 at local junk yard 1150.00 What u think So i'm pretty much ready to toss out the old 3.0 engine and put in the 3.4 engine. I've been looking high and low for a good deal to come my way and i think i've found it. The motor is out of a 3.4 4x4 Manual 4Runner. They turned it over for me and everything sounded fine. I got a quote for 1150.00 including the motor and all attached accessories, wiring harness, and computer. What do you guys think? My Truck is a 92 3.slow 4x4 Manual. I'm pretty sure this will be a easier swap as the donor is a manual as well. Also i'm trying to get the engine B.A.R'd by the California Ref. __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

02-03-2010, 05:26 PM	#8 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	oh you guys happen to know where the ECU is located in the 97-2000 4Runner's? I checked the kick panel and found what looks to be a ABS box or something. No ECU. __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

02-03-2010, 06:33 PM	#9 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,845	Sounds like a reasonable price to me. You need to make sure you grab the evap box as well, because you're going to need it for your smog cert. Grab anything you can from the emissions. The ECU is likely located above the glove box. Not sure if you will have a problem with the 4Runner ECU in a pickup. I'd check to see if they want the ECU from a truck, as well. Check Cadman's thread for more info. __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio Last edited by RobD; 02-03-2010 at 06:36 PM.

02-03-2010, 07:19 PM	#11 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	i think i should be fine the SUV/Truck is in the same class. Now if i did a swap from a straight 6 out of a supra i would fail, as it's for a car. IDK i think i should be fine. and if they are looking for a visual i think i could just swap out ecu boards or cases to match. =) __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

02-03-2010, 07:37 PM	#12 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	Vehicle family Rule: Engine must come from a vehicle from the same family, ie. light duty to light duty, medium and heavy duty to same. What surprised me was the family range. Everything from a mini to a 1 ton truck is considered light duty, and engines can be interchanged. Everything greater than 1 ton pickup is considered med/heavy duty and thus cannot be used as a donor into a car. Catalytic Converters: CATs are not required to be installed on vehicles that did not come with them installed from the factory. Kicker: OBDII donor vehicles have post CAT O2 sensors. These cannot be disabled in any way. Without the CATs, the PCM will throw a code, thus creating an issue with the conversion. So, although the CATs themselves are not required, if the Donor vehicle is OBDII, then by proxy, they are required. Misc. Emissions controls: EVERY piece of emissions package is required from the donor vehicle. That would include fuel tank (to include fuel pressure sensor), evaporative canister and all lines from and to the tank. Referee inspection: Pre-75 vehicles (vehicles not requiring smog tests) do not have to be referee certified. However, CHP (or any law enforcement officer, I suppose) can write you an emissions citation, which would need a visit to the referee to sign off to cancel the citation (fixit ticket). Apparently, the State is actively looking at modified vehicles for emissions violations (roadside checkpoints as mentioned previously) __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

02-03-2010, 08:31 PM	#13 (permalink)
TatonkaII Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Posts: 50	whats the mileage???

02-03-2010, 08:42 PM	#14 (permalink)
RobD Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Calgary, AB Posts: 1,845	I hadn't heard anything about the fuel tank before. That's news. I'd check Cadman's thread about the trials and tribulations he went through to get his certified. __________________ 1991 4Runner, 3.4 5VZFE swap, OME shocks/springs, 33" BFG All Terrain T/A KOs, Pioneer head unit, Infinity speakers, XM Satellite radio

02-03-2010, 08:42 PM	#15 (permalink)
dntsdad Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 562	they wont care as long as you have everything that your donor vehicle had. Grab the airbox, ecm, wiring, Evap box, idle up (screws into the power steering pump), try to get the whole power steering pump, and the ignitor. I would also grab the OBD2 plug above the gas pedal and the circuit opening relay on the bottom of the fuse panel in the drivers kickpanel. I think that is a fair price. Not great but fair. Since I have found my donor I have seen some really great deals of course. nothing before. I still wouldnt do the swap myself again without the whole vehicle here. __________________ 1992 Toyota Pickup Ex-Cab 3.0 V6 ---> 3.4 swap IN PROGRESS 4" Pro-Comp lift terribly installed by previous owner and a crew of 1st graders it seems 3.0 parts for sale Parting out 97 4Runner 3" body lift for 90-95 Runner $50

02-07-2010, 07:08 PM	#16 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	3vz Removal Engine Only Whats the best way to get the rear exhaust cross over off so i can get to the top engine/trans bolts. also ideas on starter removal, whats the best way of getting it out, due to the limited space. Yanking out the 3.0 for the 5vz Swap. __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

02-07-2010, 07:42 PM	#18 (permalink)
allnmstkn313 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 78	You may well find it easier to pull the engine with the transmission attached.

02-07-2010, 07:56 PM	#20 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	i thought the starter has to be removed from the trans, as it will be holding the engine and trans together. Now i could be wrong, as this is the first time I've pulled the engine from my truck. Every other engine setup I've doubt with the started needed to be pulled. I tried a extra long ext. And no go. I'm going to try some penetration fluid and see what happens. If last resort i'm taking the sawzaw to the SOB. I'm not keeping any of the 3.0 parts, so it doesn't matter. =) __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

02-07-2010, 07:59 PM	#21 (permalink)
greatahjeremy Registered User Join Date: Jan 2010 Posts: 12	I unbolted the cross over with extensions from underneath then pushed it down a bit and I could access the top three tranny bolts no problem with a box wrench. as for the starter, just remove the cover in the wheel well and then unbolt the starter and it WILL come out, you just have to finesse it a bit with different angles. I just did this stuff last week and it all worked like a charm.

02-07-2010, 10:03 PM	#22 (permalink)
pb4ugotobed Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 145	I don't unbolt the corssover. I leave them right where they are. The only exhaust part I unbolt to pull a 3.0 is the 3 bolts on the downpipe, and the 2 bolts holding the shoe-horn looking bracket to the bell housing. The 2 bolts on the top of the bell housing look intimidating, but aren't really that bad. Use a long transmission impact extension, like one of those 3 foot long ones. Most will fit in a half inch impact gun and have a 3/8 head on the end. Use a 17mm swivel socket on the end of it. The one on the upper right (looking at it from underneath, top on the passenger side) is easy to get off. The upper left one (top drivers side) can be kind of a bitch, but if you use a swivel joint AND a swivel socket with your long extension it'll come right out. I personally use a big 24" long 1/2" ratchet because I don't like using impact guns with a swivel on a swivel socket... kinda dangerous if it catches wrong, kinda starts flying at you fast. once you get it broke loose, you're golden. You do have to unbolt the starter to seperate the bell housing from the block. The rear bolt goes through the bell housing, through the spacer plate, and into the starter. The front bolt does the opposite. The spacer plate bolts to the engine block with 1 10mm bolt behind your flywheel or flexplate, depending on if you're auto or manual tranny. Using that same long ass extension it's really easy to get the bolt in the back of the starter, and if you remove your skid plate you can burp the front bolt off with an impact gun as well. You can pull one of those starters out in 20 minutes. Or for what you need, which is just to unbolt it and let it hang down there, 5 minutes.

02-07-2010, 11:15 PM	#23 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	So i picked the motor up on sat morning which worked out great. the guys had everything ready for me to load up into the back of my buddies pickup. i got the engine and everything connected to it... AC, Power Steering, Air Box, etc.. You get the picture. Ecu and wiring harness of course, and the huge box looking deal for smog. I'm going to head down to the junk yard to get the obdII connector as i will need it to get the truck BAR'd. But all in all i think it was a pretty good find. Now i'm working on getting the old 3.0 of my truck. Can't get the top tran bolts out because of the stock crossover on the 3.0 Bolt/nuts will not budge. Tomorrow when i get off of work, i'm going to give it another shot with some penetrating oil, and see what gives. __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

02-07-2010, 11:21 PM	#24 (permalink)
dntsdad Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 562	Cool deal on the motor score. On the tranny bolt grab about 3' of extension and get at it that way. Thats what I did. Its a bitch though for sure. Was REALLY nice reinstalling everything after the body lift was on!! __________________ 1992 Toyota Pickup Ex-Cab 3.0 V6 ---> 3.4 swap IN PROGRESS 4" Pro-Comp lift terribly installed by previous owner and a crew of 1st graders it seems 3.0 parts for sale Parting out 97 4Runner 3" body lift for 90-95 Runner $50

02-08-2010, 09:45 AM	#25 (permalink)
dem0nk1d Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: San Diego Posts: 137	I'll be checking everything out when i get home today. If for some reason i can't get that crossover out because of stuck bolts. I guess it's going to meet Mr.SawZaw. __________________ 1992 Pickup 4x4 V6 5-Speed clutch pedal clevis pin hole fix http://www.yotatech.com/f116/clutch-...-round-181666/

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