snyderiii

So, I have done a significant amount of work to my 1st gen since I bought it. Between body, fuel system (tank, lines, etc), tires and wheels, I've put about 6K into the car since August.... and then guess what??!!?!

Now, I need a new engine. Yippee. Obviously, I'm committed. But also a little cash poor since I was doing all the other work. Isn't this always the way things go.

While I was trying to decide what to do I ran across all the threads concerning the 3.4L swap and have concluded this is the right course of action for me. HOWEVER, somewhere I ran across a thread which indicated there were certain years of 2nd gen 4runners/T100's or whatever which mated up better to my vehicle. At this point, I can't even remember why, nor can I find this thread.

Since I'm just starting the process of looking for a donor vehicle, I was hoping someone would be able to point me to the "perfect" year/vehicle combination (as well as the caveat/why I wanted that vehicle, in case I can't find the perfect combo). After I get the donor I think I've found all the threads which pertain to things like hood scoop, lift kit, electrical diagram, transmission differences, engine mounts and exhaust connections, but any help you can provide to save my baby will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

snyderiii

Ok, I got a little trigger happy on my first post.

The truck is an 88 4runner w/3.0L V6 manual transmission. I have A/C but do not have cruise (which I was hoping to incorporate into the swap).

Thanks for reading/replying.

kiyobrown

Iirc, the cruise of the 88 is independent of the 3.4 wiring harness, so to incorporate you can find the older style of a junkyard rig and add it in. Also, the only problem you might run into is the 88 style 3.0 engine mounts. You may have to source a second set of mounts, so verify early after you pull your 3.0 so you don't have to stop a days work bc you have to find different mounts. Good luck!

And I can't point you a "perfect" donor, but finding a 5 speed donor vehicle will help you the most. I had an auto harness and ecu. I picked up a manual ecu and had to buy a couple plugs and had the super secret Russian wiring guy repin the auto harness to make it work. Might save you a couple steps.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Been done numerous times. Done an 89 and doing an 88.

Search the forums for the details.

:wabbit2:

snyderiii

Thanks for the replies Yeah, I've gotten thru about a million. My specific question is about donor vehicles for my 88 4runner. Most everything else is readily available throughout the forum. Best I can tell, certain years of the T100 is the best match (assuming all other thing are equal, like a/c, 4wd, manual tranny)... but when deviating from any or all of these and/or when considering mileage on the donor engine what "deviation" should trump another.

example: there's an 80k t100 from 94 with a/c versus a 120k t100 from 96 with auto tranny and no a/c. Is mileage ALL I care about? Or s there some "ease" of conversion consideration which should possibly be more important that 10 or 20 or even 50k milkes?

snyderiii

Fyi...I need to get thus swap done so I can keep using the soft top you made me. ;-)

kiyobrown

Wait wait wait. You actually GOT it?

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

At least you're not converting a 4cyl.....

Good kiyobrown makes good points

Also, I've only heard rumors that tops ever made it to their final destination.....pics prease

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

1994 is NOT a 3.4, its a 3.0 3VZ. They started the 5VZ 3.4 in 1995, so you will want to get the 96 if you are trying to find a 3.4

donomite49

search yotatech swap threads.

more info here,http://www.offroadsolutions.com/old/tech.html
easier to get a complete donor vehicle.
source for harness if you don't want to do your own.http://toyonlyswaps.com/

i ended up with a 2000 runner engine trans etc, i'd say 98 thru 01 is more desireable since they have more advanced ecu and maf for supercharging.

snyderiii

removed... wrong section for that question.

snyderiii

I'm finally the owner of "everything" I believe I need (or at least I will be on or about Thursday). Mike at ORS is the man when it comes to knowledge on this stuff and unlike other folks on here (or other small furry hopping creatures) he doesn't get frustrated with you (at least to my face) when I ask stupid questions.

On to the advice I need. My donor was a 99 4runner. Got almost every part from that one vehicle... but my "attracted to shining things brain" is getting lost in the while-you're-at-it world. I bought a new timing belt, water pump, etc. Was planning on getting new crankshaft and rear seals too. The crankshaft pulley on the donor has a chip on it so i will be replacing that anyway.

BUUUUUTTTTT.... am I smarter just to put the thing together and turn it over (and perhaps drive it for a while) before I do all these other changes (timing belt, tensioner, waterpump, crankshaft seal, rear main seal)? I guess I'm wondering if the savings (time and ease) are really worth the danger of changing too many things at once and then struggling with any troubleshooting i could get lost in after the swap itself is complete?

The engine came from a 99 4runner. Pick-a-part gauranteed it checked out as a good engine. Only has 125K miles on it, but the vehicle became a donor due to a front end collision.

Going to be doing "something" this weekend cause the wife has to work both days and I will left alone. The question is, after I pull the 3.0 (which will be the priority) do I start messing with the changes to the 3.4 while its on the stand or should I just drop it and complete the swap before getting into all that stuff?

SacRunner

Do yourself the favor of doing the timing belt, water pump, etc with the 3.4 out and on an engine stand; it will be significantly easier to work on, you can easily see things, and there will be next to nothing in your way. Just make sure you follow the procedure in the FSM exactly, take your time, then when the new belt is on, turn the engine over 2 times and make sure the time marks on the pulleys all line up (the marks on the belt will be off a couple of teeth but that is expected).

While it's out, you may consider cleaning/degreasing the block and possibly throwing a coat of engine enamel on it if needed.

Do everything you can now, just because you have access to it. Yes, you are adding variables that could cause problems down the road, but if you take your time, do them right, use as much Toyota parts as possible, you should be fine.

snyderiii

Thanks for the advice, do you think i should change the front and rear main seals, while I'm at it?

ultimase

I did not change the front and rear main seals but I decided not to because there was no signs of a leak there. If you have any signs of a leak at the front or rear main seals I would definately do it while the motor is on the engine stand. Any work on the motor will be infinitively easier if the motor is out in front of you on the stand versus sitting in the engine compartment.

SacRunner

I replaced the cam and crank (front main) seals, those were fairly straight forward and could use a piece of PVC pipe to drive them in squarely.

I also did the rear main seal, but that one has a 4-5" diameter (I think) and I'm certain I didn't get it installed squarely b/c I now have an oil leak between the block and bell housing which I'm sure is the rear main seal.

snyderiii

So this past weekend, I finally got to work. Took months to secure the money, gather up enough info to make me feel confident, order conversion parts and find a complete donor vehicle (although i ended up going with Pick-A-Part, at least all the parts were from one 4runner).

Donor was a 99 4runner MT. Had 125K miles on it. Got many of ORS's conversion parts, a timing belt kit (water pump, idler pulley, etc.), new wires, plugs, Amsoil fluids, Totota coolant, new front main seal, new rear main seal, new harmonic balancer bolt and new hood scoop. I'm probably forgetting some items for the swap but that's close to the whole list.

The hood is off, got all the vacuum hoses pulled, the radiator and shroud were removed, the battery is gone, the starter is out, the ECU and wiring harness pulled, cut the exhaust towards the end of the collector, removed 4 bolts from the two engine mounts, and FINALLY got the 5 17mm bolts off the bell housing and the 4 14 mm bolts off the bottom "plate" (whatever this is technically called...).

AND... Voila, nada. Struggling with getting the damn thing out of the car. Was pretty sure I forgot a bolt or something but I've trolled around through enough of these threads that I'm convinced 5 + 4 is all that's there. Guess I need to go buy a new pry bar (no stinkin idea where it disappeared to) and tug at it somemore. Gonna post a bit more on the "hard" parts of the work above, cause through all these threads I think most people gloss over the 3.0 removal (since most of you are apparently much closer to being a mechanic than I am). Anyway, the goal is to have this done before 4th of July, taking into account the minimal time I really have to dedicate to all the work. Plus I'm gonna be changing a few other things that have been needing it like the Body Mounts, the heater control cables and temperature control switch, redo my hitch wiring, marlincrawler's shift kit, etc.

ultimase

I think I hit this similar snag when pulling the 3.0, I believe we found that there was another bolt that comes from the firewall side near the starter that was keeping us from pulling the motor.

snyderiii

thanks... turned out I missed an obvious one. Drivers side right near the exhaust pipe bracket (which I also removed).

My fathers day present was to be left alone with my truck.

Anyway, 3.0 is NO MORE. Got it out, pulled the pan, stiffening brackets, motor mounts, etc. 3.4 is in the stand. Now all I have to do is work the timing belt, idler pulley, water pump, thermostat, and the front main seal. Oh, and the rear main seal, the spark plug wires, the newly turned flywheel and the clutch. Oh, and clean up/repaint the engine bay. Oh, and the... you get the point.

snyderiii

well... in my rush to get the 3.4 on the stand so I could begin the process of refreshing it and getting it ready to go into the truck I may have skipped an important step, but I'm having a tough time believing it matters.

I pulled the clutch and flywheel since they needed to go to fit on my stand and the flywheel will be resurfaced and the clutch replaced. Anyway, I was flipping through my trusty Haynes manual (after the fact, yes that sounds dumb) and it says "be sure to mark the flywheel before removing it." Awesome. Didn't do that. I am struggling with the why-this-matters-who-really-cares part of this though. Timing belt, TDC, etc... got it! But the flywheel. Not sure I understand. Anyway, if anyone can tell me either a) you don't care, forget that silliness or b) you are an imbecile, but you can get it right by doing the following. That would be much appreciated.

Thanks.