Austin Marr

So thanks to vasinvictor i've figured out how to upload photos so here's my 3.4 swap boys!

Engine removal from the donor (T100):
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Back of the truck:
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On the engine stand:

Crossover Build:
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Havent tacked it just yet, want to make sure it fits properly first:
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Tacked and now fitting:
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So this gap is what you end up with when you build your own. some guys dont end up with the gap but i really didn't want to chance the possible risk of it being to close or hitting so i just got a piece of tubing from O O O ORIELLYS!
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Put some finishing touches on that gap with just working that filler piece and there she is, what a beaut!:
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Final fitting:
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Hi-temp powder coating on the crossover and my custom battery box (which the PC burned off the crossover anyway. at least it was free):
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This is a shot of my starter trigger wire soldered into the connector that plugs into your 3L starter. (i soon learned that this was the 3.4 connector not the 3L connector like it needed to be so make sure its the right connector)

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Timing belt kit, O2 sensor and crossover gaskets
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Installed:
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SWAP DAY! this is my make shift shop, worked perfectly!
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BYE 3.SLO!
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3.4 Drop in! thats not me that was the dufus helping me haha:
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There she sits
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Upstream O2 sensor addition (i marked the down pipe before i pulled it off to where it would clear in between the body and tranny:
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This is the O2 bracket i cut off my donors exhaust and cleaned it up to make it fresh looking:
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O2 sensor on (notice i havent hacked off the down pipe connection from the 3L crossover. be sure to cut it off first and weld on your donor's mating piece to your down pipe first because i cut it super close to where i almost had to move the O2 sensor bracket. i will post a pic of the finished product later):
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The airbox was too tall when i installed it in my truck to the point where the hood wouldn't close when it was mounted, so to remedy that i cut about a 4" section out of the middle and then "welded" the seam back together by heating up a piece of steel with my torch and pressing it against the seam. worked very nicely and the filter will still fit!!!
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Completed air box installed (soon to be open air) i threw the old stock filter away because it was filthy so im using a towel as a filter until i get my new air filter!

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This is the filter thats on her way to me right now! Amsoil nano fiber, no oiling, priming or any of that crap, just a good ole shop vac

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"Completed" open air system with the intake installed. i put complete on there in quotes because im still trying to decide weather or not to modify it a little and shorten how long it is because as it sits, it will move up and down while going over bumps or off roading so i need to secure it somehow, or make a snorkel or route it into my cab.

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So here is a picture of the 2 body-engine harness connectors from the recipient dark gray is IE1 on my T100 EWD's and the white is my IE2 on my EWD's

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And this is a shot of my engine-body harness connectors from my donor. dark gray is my C1 connector and my white is my C2 connector in my 93 pickup EWD'S

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I think i know what i need to do for the vehicle speed sensor on my truck (92'-94' trucks have a VSS ONLY) since the donor had a mechanical sensor the harness did not have provision for this electric speed sensor that plugs into the back of the t-case. I cut the old connector off my recipients harness and soldered in a 10 foot extension to the 3 wires on that connector (B-O, G-R, G-L) i didn't have these color wires laying around the shop so i just used what i had, automotive 14ga. here's the whip:

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So I've routed the connector whip that plugs into the t-case up into the engine bay and I've found this lovely little knock out here that im gonna use to route the speed sensor whip:

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Here are the 3 wire's that operate the speedometer prepped and ready for soldering (B-O, G-R and G-L from my C2 recipient body connector). Look at your recipients combination meter EWD and verify VSS wire color's. My EWD was incorrect so i had to verify connector and pin number which by verifying that i was able to find what color it actually was. once you do that all you do is solder the wire's you pulled from the t-case to your body harness color for color. this is kind of a grey area so PM me if you need some help with it. Also look at your Engine Control and Connectors EWD and find the "SPD" and "SPD1" terminal's in your ECU. verify color's, pin # and connector and solder accordingly. this is just so your cluster gets signal from your ECU it is essential for your cluster to work.

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Here is the soldering job shrink wrapped and complete:

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This is the completed battery box install welded to the fender well

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Had to extend the battery support bar



I didn't really have a choice in choosing a hood scoop or the body lift because of cost reasons so i had to get a hood scoop which is on its way now but here is a shot of how much i had to cut out of my hood for it to close properly:

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Here is the scoop installed. its a ebay special lol $53 bucks. it comes with some cheesy 3M double backing gasket style tape on the scoop but i pulled it off and replaced it with some 3M 5200 "in hull" marine adhesive and sealant. It takes a long time to set and cure but it'll hold and seal a lot better then that other stuff will. i think i will also end up pop riveting it to the hood as well. looks decent though:



Tach Mod. This is something that has to be done on every 3.0-3.4L swap not sure about the 22r or re swaps but it has to be done for the 3.0L for your tach to work. All you need is (1) 10K OHM resistor 1/4 watt 5% tolerance. and to rip your dash apart......

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After (sorry for the blurry pic):


Alot of guys make it so that if they ever have to pull the motor out all they'll have to do is pull the connectors off. so they order the allocating mating connectors. i hard soldered everything because i dont have time or money to make it that way though it would be nice. and this is where i am at now. troubleshooting now. Whats going on now is that the motor idle's rough but not really rough to where its very noticeable. then when i push the throttle it will choke out to the point of dying out. any suggetstions would be great!

Austin Marr

RUNNIN LIKE A BOSS NOW! it was the +B W-R from my pin 12 on my E4A connector which i failed to solder it to my W-R on my IE1 body connector. simple fix and we're back on track! hard to believe i over looked that one! so now i need to figure out my speed sensor wiring (figured it out, see above). the 92-94 trucks are the only ones that have the speed sensors on the back of the transfer case all others are mechanical sensors and the donor harness doesn't have wires provided for that so i've got to figure that out. other then that im pretty much good other then my indicator lights and what not which im not worried about

spinyard

damn nice work looks like you have it handled...

Austin Marr

ya it is super nice. Cutting out the core support in my hood wasn't enough to clear the motor either so im going to have to get a scoop for it. The ECU did not want to fit in the kick panel either, regardless of using the brackets off the 3L ecu so i had to really stuff the trim panel that goes over it (this was due to my wheel wells being pounded in with a sledge hammer to fit 33's with stock suspension.). NIGHT AND DAY DIFFERENCE IN POWER WITH THE 3.4. oh my word that motor is freakin fast

Austin Marr

One side note to add as well, im not sure if its like this with every swap but with mine, i changed the oil and filter while it was on the engine stand. when i went to swap out motor mount brackets (which i realized i didnt need to do because the brackets were exactly the same as my 3.0L's) i already had the oil filter installed and it ended up being a HUGE PIA to tighten the bolts on the bracket to motor mount.

Austin Marr

Has anyone had issues with just one dead cylinder? My cylinder three is missing firing and I can't figure out why. It isn't the coil pack because I swapped it with one from a different cylinder, cleared the code then it popped back up after I switched it. I also replaced the plug too for that cylinder. The motor ran awesome for a few thousand miles then started mis firing on a day trip to the hills. It was misfiring intermittently when I carried on driving it, I'd stop, turn it off then start it up and it be fine till I started driving again and it started doing it intermittently again. Once I got to my destination I bought a tube of Lucas fuel system/injector cleaner, put a fresh tank of gas in it and dumped it in and it ran completely fine for the whole 250 miles home. Got home, put 10 bucks in and drove it another 20 miles fine then it started doing it again but it is not intermittent, it is all the time. Since then I've out 2 or 3 tanks through it. Thinking maybe I should sea foam it or send my injectors to watch hunter. Any suggestions?

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

Check compression firstly.

Austin Marr

Ok. What should the compression be? Would bad compression cause a intermittent mis fire at first?

ultimase

Think I remember the fsm saying about 190ish is acceptable for compression. I'd consider some type of intermittent wiring fault. Misfire when hot usually points towards a type of wiring, as things get hot the resistance goes up and signals can drop.

Austin Marr

K. I will have to inspect this. It really worries me that I'm having this issue. I spent 1200 for everything I needed for the swap from the same donor and now I have this issue. What's the worst case scenario here.....? Bad ring on the piston head? Need rebuild? Valve job?

ultimase

Worse case scenario you have internal engine work needed, sky's the limit on that one. But start with the cheapest solution and work your way from there. The fact that it was intermittent at first makes me think it might be wiring. I know you mentioned you swap the coils and the plug, but check the gap on the spark plug, check to see if it's burning differently in that cylinder. There's a lot of variable here, down to the ignition system, a vac leak, fuel system, or mechanical.

All combustion needs air, spark, fuel and compression. Start with the easiest to check and move on from there.

Austin Marr

It's also weird because that coil also fires another cylinder so you'd think it'd misfire the other cylinder too. The cylinder 3 plug is covered in gas. I just need to see if outs some kind of wiring issue. I think

Austin Marr

UPDATE ON MISFIRE:

Twas a bad injector! After doing some research and gathering up some more excellent info on this BA site I discovered how to test the OHMS of resistance of the injector with a volt meter. I tested the injector using this method and it didn't even register. all other injectors resistance was right around 13.6-13.8. I bought a reman OEM Denso injector off ebay for 30 bucks and it runs great now. It is a very simple project that took me only like 8 hours but thats because i was very maticulous about cleaning everything and what not. I replaced the valve cover gaskets, PCV valve and intake manifold gaskets.

I did mess up big though which threw my probably 3 hours of work out the window. I accidently swapped my coolant hose and air hose on the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve which caused coolant to go into the combustion chamber. Luckily I caught it in time and realized what had happened and i ended up pulling everything back off and recleaning everything and flushed the whole system with 2 oil changes and used 2 bottles of seafoam while i was at it to ensure all coolant was flushed out and burned off. Stupidest mistake of my Toyota do-it-yourself maintenance.....she runs amazing now though and super smooth

Austin Marr

My set up has never had a EVAP set up so I am not sure why it is throwing this code out. any ideas?

egillette87

looks sweet boss! we'll get the 3.4 swap in my 87 sometimes within the year

Austin Marr

Just saw this! Mah bad! That's gonna be your bachelor party. Swapping in a 5VZ in that thing! Hah!

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

Fyi, you don't have to take off the heatshield. You make the cuts right and you barely even need a filler.

Austin Marr

Oh! Well it was my first rodeo and I was following the build your own crossover thread. After 12+ swaps I think I'd have it dialed in too Vitaly lol

Austin Marr

Truck is still running like a top 3 year's later!

Shrapnel1123

I just started my 3.4 swap in my 2nd gen runner due to a river crossing that hydrolocked my 3.0. Some might say I did it on purpose to get rid of the 3.slow....

I have the engine and transmission married up and sitting in the engine bay, next task is looking at removing all the excess vacuum lines and possibly relocating my cruise control to the passenger side.